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post #1 of 33 (permalink) Old 03-24-2018, 07:22 PM - Thread Starter
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FKMINI2 Review by MattKelly

FKMINI2 Review by MattKelly

The FKMINI2 is Commatech’s newest iteration of their FKMINI series. The previous model was named ‘FKMINI V3’ so while the naming scheme might seem a bit confusing at first glance, my guess is that their intention was: FKMINI V1, FKMINI V2, FKMINI V3 --> FKMINI2. The updated FKMINI2 retains the same classic shape, with an upgraded shell construction (improved clicks / coating) and a new sensor (3325). As someone with professional experience in various FPS titles (CoD4 ProMod, Quake Champions, Battalion 1944, etc.) my main focus with mice tends to be the overall shape, size, and weight (at this point in my career I’ve tested / used over 60 mice). While I will of course do my best to touch on all aspects of the FKMINI2, please be aware that these areas specifically are where my experience excels. I hope this review can shed some light on the FKMINI series, as they are shipped from Asia and not commonly highlighted by the English speaking consumer base.


SHAPE

The FKMINI was clearly inspired by the LMO (Logitech Mini Optical) – an extremely popular mouse among the StarCraft community. It is very small in size, with overall dimensions of 104mm x 60mm x 30mm (L x W x H). Delving deeper into these measurements, I’d like to take a closer look at how these dimensions might apply to various different grip styles. The 104mm length is very “true” to the mouse, in that there is no overhang at the front of the mouse, or wasted space at the back due to the shape of the butt. The portion of the hump that will make contact with the palm (if held in such a style) is the backmost part of the mouse. There is also no slope at the front edge of the mouse (from bottom of the base to top of the clicks), so it is entirely flat end-to-end, resulting in all 104mm being completely usable space. In case the following dimension matters to anyone, the portion of the base that makes contact with the pad is 98mm long. The 60mm width is for the widest part of the mouse, right across the center. However, the area that I believe most people will hold the mouse ranges from about 50mm to 55mm in grip width. I know this may seem like a somewhat arbitrary range, however the egg shape curves in a way that becomes narrower as you move towards the front of the mouse. With the ring finger on the right side of the mouse, and at the farthest forward point (before running out of room) the grip width is 50mm. Moving towards the center it is widens to 55mm. The following anecdote is a bit subjective, but I’ll do my best to apply objective reasoning for how it can affect aim. Something that I personally find frustrating with a large majority of mice, is how the shape affects the relationship between the ring and pinky fingers. In fact, this caused me to compete with a 1-3-1 finger grip for 7+ years (I now use a 1-2-2 finger grip after testing 60-some-odd mice). When holding a mouse, the human hand does not naturally curve in such a way that our pinky sits under the ring finger (look at the hand palm up with fingers extended, and move the pinky towards the pointer finger – this action can feel a bit unnatural). When mice curve outwards towards the ring finger (i.e. DeathAdder) and/or have inward curves near the pinky (i.e. Zowie FK) the pinky finger needs to move underneath the ring finger in order to make contact with the mouse (often times people will let their pinky hang off of the mouse and rest on the pad to compensate for this). Another way to compensate for this cramped feeling, is to bend the ring and pinky fingers (going from a palm grip style with straighter fingers, to a more claw grip style with arched ring / pinky fingers). My theory on why this compensation is not the most ideal is that it limits the ability for the ring / pinky fingers to extend. We are capable of using the shoulder, elbow, wrist, and fingers to move the mouse. I’m a firm believer that utilizing various joints and muscle groups (a separate conversation on degrees of freedom) allows us the most control over different movements in-game (i.e. swiping the forearm to turn around, using the wrist to snap towards a target, and finalizing the last small adjustment with finger movement). Whether you use a fingertip grip or not (personally, I prefer the control of palm contact on the mouse, as I feel it acts like a ‘brake’ to push the mouse against) holding the mouse in such a way that your ring / pinky fingers have to bend in order to contact the side of the mouse, means that they cannot unbend or they will inherently lose contact with the shell. To me, this limits fine finger adjustments (and even with my palm contact, I can move these finger adjustments more than the size of a hitbox or two, at a 40cm/360 – so it’s not worth ignoring. This is because the human hand is fleshy, and fingertip movements are viable even when the mouse makes contact with the palm). So with this in mind, mice that have accommodating sides for natural ring and pinky finger contact, are greatly appreciated. Totally straight sides or a slightly egg-shaped curvature tend to be ideal for this. Also, the sides should not be too slanted downwards towards the base (looking at the mouse from the back - not top-down - I’m referring to \__/ sides). Having completely flat |__| sides like the WMO allows for the pinky finger to not slide under the ring finger. The FKMINI2 possesses both of these attributes. From the top down, it has a slight egg-shaped ( ) curvature to it allowing the ring finger to sit left of the pinky finger, and from the back the completely flat |__| sides prevent the pinky from sliding downwards and under the ring finger. Again, my perspective on shape may not apply to everyone, however I thought I would share my personal beliefs on shapes that accommodate finger adjustments. In short, the FKMINI2 feels very natural to make small corrections with, due to the classic LMO shape.


WEIGHT

The FKMINI2 weighs approximately 77 grams by default. By removing the internal weight, and the screw that holds it in place, the total weight drops to approximately 65 grams (with stock cable attached). This is a total weight reduction of approximately 11 to 12 grams. My scale unfortunately measures in ounces only, so the values shown were converted to grams. Removing the internal weight was incredibly simple, as there was only one screw keeping it attached inside. Also, the screws to open the shell itself are located underneath the bottom two mouse feet.


FEET / CABLE

The stock mouse feet, in my opinion, need to be replaced. They are not rounded at the edges, so the flat nature of them often feels like they’re scratching on the pad. There are four small circular feet, which I immediately replaced with whatever I had lying around (leftover EC2-B feet – not my favorite, but much better). The cable is rubber and somewhat flexible. It doesn’t seem to move the mouse around much, and I can imagine it getting better with use. I personally use a paracord on any mouse that becomes my main, but the stock cable is acceptable.


BUTTONS / SCROLL WHEEL

One of the areas that Commatech attempted to improve the FKMINI, was by updating the shell design to create more even clicks between mouse1 and mouse2. I’ve never owned an FKMINI V3 (or any previous version of the FKMINI for that matter) so while I cannot comment on the improvement from one edition to the next, I can say that the left and right clicks feel close to being even. If nitpicking, mouse1 might be a tad stiffer than mouse2, but they truly are very similar. The shell has a split button design which is nice, and the switches are Omron D2FC-F-7N. The wheel is rather light to scroll, but has decently distinct steps to it. The middle mouse click I would classify as having a medium stiffness – pretty much middle of the road for most mice I’ve tested.


COATING / BUILD QUALITY

The FKMINI2 comes in three colors: white, silver, and black. I have not touched the white or silver versions myself, so while I’m unsure whether or not they’re a glossy finish, I can say that they are not matte. The only version with a matte coating is the black one, and in my opinion it has a slightly rubberized texture to it that I find to be very nice. The sides are also updated with a honeycomb textured plastic that was so nicely done, I almost thought it had rubber grips at first touch. The coating of the matte black FKMINI2 is quite exceptional. Build quality also feels very nice, especially with the internal weight removed. When reattaching the top and bottom shell with the two external screws, I noticed that the tightness of which the screws were reassembled had zero effect on the stiffness of the mouse clicks. On many mice, screwing the shell together more tightly / loosely can directly affect the quality of the clicks – this did not happen at all with the FKMINI2, which was nice to see. Overall the build quality feels great, however there is a slight rattling when shaking the mouse. It is not the mouse wheel (the wheel is rock solid) so my guess is that it’s the plastic lens holder, although I am not 100% certain. (EDIT: I figured out where the rattling was coming from. It was not the plastic lens holder. It was actually the two small switches to change DPI / Hz on the bottom of the mouse. I do not think this is a big deal at all, however I thought I would clarify for those curious).

SENSOR / DPI / HZ

The last generation of the FKMINI (V3) had the A3090 sensor. The FKMINI2 has now been upgraded to the 3325. The DPI / Hz setup is unique, in that they are changed with switches at the bottom of the mouse (Low / Mid / High) however there are more than 3 total steps. On the PCB itself, you can manually adjust what values are assigned to the Low, Mid, and High options respectively. The possible setups are 800 or 1000 for Low, 1600 or 1800 for Mid, and 3500 or 5000 for High. I did tell Commatech that many FPS players might appreciate the classic LMO shape with a 3360 sensor. They took my feedback into consideration, but I do not have any info as to whether or not an upgrade like this might happen one day.


CONCLUSION

The FKMINI2 is certainly an upgrade over its previous iterations. The shape, weight, and coating are all fantastic on this mouse, and the feet / cable are easily replaced if desired. While the 3325 may not be the top sensor available, I feel like those that appreciate the classic LMO shape might be more forgiving of what sensor is inside. While I do not know the retail price yet myself, I have heard that it will be similar to the previous generations. This means that it will be incredibly affordable, but shipping may take some time as it comes from Asia. I think the choice to purchase this mouse really comes down to individual preference of shape. If you’re looking for a small lightweight mouse, with flat sides and the classic LMO shape, then the FKMINI2 should be a strong consideration.
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Last edited by MattKelly; 05-11-2018 at 11:14 PM.
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post #2 of 33 (permalink) Old 03-25-2018, 12:54 AM
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Thanks for the detailed review!

Quote: Originally Posted by MattKelly View Post
The FKMINI2 has now been upgraded to the 3325.
I wouldn't really call that an upgrade though. 3090 is better imo.

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post #3 of 33 (permalink) Old 03-25-2018, 01:14 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by vanir1337 View Post
Thanks for the detailed review!


I wouldn't really call that an upgrade though. 3090 is better imo.
which one has a higher malfunction speed at the best/lowest available dpi between the 3090 and 3325 fkminis?
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post #4 of 33 (permalink) Old 03-25-2018, 03:21 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by vanir1337 View Post
Thanks for the detailed review!


I wouldn't really call that an upgrade though. 3090 is better imo.
In what way is a 3090 better?
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post #5 of 33 (permalink) Old 03-25-2018, 04:21 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by vanir1337 View Post
I wouldn't really call that an upgrade though. 3090 is better imo.
Haha. Yeah, the 3090 version is definitely better. Just ask Alya.
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post #6 of 33 (permalink) Old 03-25-2018, 04:31 AM
 
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..

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post #7 of 33 (permalink) Old 03-25-2018, 04:37 AM
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Sorry for my ignorance, did not know the previous model had such a bad implementation. I was talking in general.

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post #8 of 33 (permalink) Old 03-25-2018, 04:38 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by uaokkkkkkkk View Post
Haha. Yeah, the 3090 version is definitely better. Just ask Alya.
Unnamed/no brand MCU with 1.5m/s PCS (8 bit datapath), CPI switch wasn't even SOLDERED ON TO THE MOUSE SO IT'S STUCK AT 1000 CPI, looks to be hand soldered, one screw that holds the entire mouse together, two little pegs, and the cable seemingly hold the PCB in place, and a whole bunch of "Oh Jesus why Ping Ling"s to go around. Click delay is locked at 18ms as well, the most variation I could get was 1ms in either direction and that could just be a result of human error.

FKMini V3 internals can be seen here: https://www.overclock.net/forum/27014265-post2309.html

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Last edited by Alya; 03-25-2018 at 04:41 AM.
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post #9 of 33 (permalink) Old 03-25-2018, 07:46 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by LoadSounds View Post
In what way is a 3090 better?
3090 is actually a pretty great sensor, it just requires a decent implementation. All the good 3090 mice have a divider in the lens well, 'tape trick' basically. I believe they are all custom: CM Alcor, Zowie CL series. I'm curious if there are more 3090 mice with weird tricks like this built in.
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post #10 of 33 (permalink) Old 03-25-2018, 08:22 AM
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When and where can I buy two?
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