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post #91 of 137 (permalink) Old 05-23-2019, 03:24 PM
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the alps ec10 is a perfect fit with your footprint, didn't even need to straighten out the tabs. on my later pcbs I expanded the holes to make swapping encoders easier. i find when the hole is too small that solder suckers no longer work, so I end up cutting off the pins and soldering them to the top of the blocked hole. it's hard to get alps ec10 in 7mm size so that's why I was reinstalling them so often, as I had to adjust height and melt the encoder to fit a non standard allen key.
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post #92 of 137 (permalink) Old 05-23-2019, 05:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Ah, if something is difficult to desolder I just use solder wick.

I did consider using allen keys to make mouse wheel axles, but the hex in the encoder is something of an oddball size. Maybe 1/16 would work, but I didn't have one that size to try. 1.5mm is definitely too small and 2mm is too big.

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post #93 of 137 (permalink) Old 05-24-2019, 05:58 AM
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I've had good results with it. A 5/64 allen key for a ttc encoder is a good match, assuming the keys weren't out of order in the box, although it does rock a little, and an unidentified metric type for the alps. melting is hard though, it would be dope if I had a tiny hexagonal broach for the job. I try to avoid modifying wheels though, it's only for custom situations. In your case it is easy to use an oem wheel.
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post #94 of 137 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 09:39 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm almost satisfied with the vacuforming buck. Also made some cables. Still experimenting to see what I like best, but it's definitely not the most flexible cable I made, that one bunched up too much. I'll try to find the cable for the camera so I can post better photos.
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post #95 of 137 (permalink) Old 05-27-2019, 08:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Found the cable for the camera.

Made a couple practice runs vacuforming. First attempt kinda worked but part of the plastic overheated, ruining the texture. Second attempt went better, but I need to make a better frame to get a good seal on the vacuum box. Also, the clay buck started disintegrating, so i'll probably only get one more shell out of it before having to sculpt a new one.

Decision I need to make now is if I like this shape enough to risk the more expensive plastic with the color/texture I like better.

top shell is approx 10 grams.
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post #96 of 137 (permalink) Old 05-28-2019, 02:53 AM
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It's gonna be tricky to get the button actuators lined up and functional. the way I check them in my io1.1 is remove the wheel and peer into the shell through the wheel aperture while the shell is on.

I did order the cog pcb wheel after I came across a suitable photointerrupter and example circuit. It is a reflective type, but I can separate the components. Maybe there will need to be a pinhole or slot obscurer, maybe not, if the cog spokes are sufficiently wide to compensate the led diffusion. The one piece photointerrupters would be too narrow at 5mm. the power consumption is hilariously overkill, but as long as it works it will do for prototyping.

because they are discrete components they can sink the input_pullup current without dying through overcurrent like the previous type I played with which were voltage output. they can then use the same circuit as the lk optical switches in the bloody and astrum mice.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32526995173.html
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post #97 of 137 (permalink) Old 05-28-2019, 05:19 AM - Thread Starter
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If you add say 100k from pin 1 to pin 3 of that opamp, you probably can get rid of any software debouncing.

Though that sensor only has a single phototransistor, so you will need two of them to get direction.

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post #98 of 137 (permalink) Old 05-28-2019, 07:00 AM
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The astrum doesn't use an opamp in this circuit, because the photodetector is part of a voltage divider it doesn't need voltage amplification, as all it is doing is switching the median 2.5v to 5v or 0v. I haven't used opamps successfully before so I am staying away from them if I can.
The hybrid mechanical and optical approach likewise eliminates any need for photointerrupter debouncing, as the light beam change will be treated as a Set in the SR latch terminology, if it occurs when the roller microswitch is pressed and when the roller microswitch releases, that will be treated as a reset, then wheel rotation will be incremented.

when the roller microswitch is pressed, if the light beam is not interrupted, and unpressed, wheel rotation will be decremented. This has the side effect of the encoder failing in a usable way, if the optical parts burn out, menus and weapons in games can still be cycled through, albeit in one direction only.

here is the lk switch datasheet page which bst provided. I am unsure what the function of the capacitor is, maybe noise immunity of some kind.
because the roller microswitch acts as one channel of the quadrature encoder, the other optical channel only needs a single type to get direction, the advantage here, being the hardy nature of the optical parts.
I realise it is a little hard to explain because I don't think anyone has made a hybrid encoder before.
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Last edited by gipetto; 05-28-2019 at 07:17 AM.
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post #99 of 137 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 01:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Third time's a charm. Used a bigger sheet, took more time heating it up, moving it a lot to avoid hotspots.

Was a little harder to get the plastic off the buck than the first two attempts, so I drilled a hole in the top and blew in some compressed air. Needed a hole there for scroll wheel anyway.

also took some photos of the vacuform setup. First photo has the most accurate color.
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post #100 of 137 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 01:07 PM
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Can you explain me what parts are you going to use to build the mouse... I am nottalkig about specific parts like sensor type and MCU type. But about everything you need to build mouse like that.
Something like this:
Sensor
MCU
micro switches...
Pretty much everything that is on PCB

Thank you...
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custom , modding , mouse , pcb , shell

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