Originally Posted by gipetto
no jumpers whatsoever. I got my first batch of dummy pcbs in today from jlcpcb. the good ones should be in two weeks time extrapolating from the arrival date of these. I was worried the switches would be in the wrong locations but they work in the mouse shell, although could be moved a little. That's something you gotta look out for to keep down costs, there's a lot of useful information you can gather from a faulty pcb, it's better to wait until they come and check your design for errors before you re-order. If I do screw the pcb up again I will modify it for the intellimouse 1.3 shell.
Yeah, I've made a few fixes to the PCB design since I got my boards, but so far nothing that will keep me from making these work; just have to put more work in. If I do order new boards though it will go a lot faster.
I thought I would have to go to 1.25 mm holes for the switches but 1.2mm is perfect as is. I bought a lot of 10 dirt cheap d2fc-f7n omron and one of them randomly has twice the actuation force for some reason lol.
How was the fit of the rotary encoder? The leads on my switches measure 1.0mm, but the datasheet recommended 1.2mm to account for manufacturing tolerances. The boards I got from OSHPark had a little bit of play for the switches, and a close fit for the rotary encoder. I didn't have to force or bend anything, but it also didn't rattle around once it was in. I'd be more specific but I don't have pin gauges to make an accurate measurement. I think some PCB manufacturers drill oversize to account for plating thickness, and others use the drill size you specify, and let you account for plating thickness yourself.
I think I saw the faulty image you are talking about. I used to do minor radio circuit mods and the information was often riddled with errors, which was made worse due to sites copying each other. back then i'd look for like 3 different versions and pick best two of three. another issue was language differences, some words could change meaning over time and geography. For my pcb I used the g203 pinout and plug to make life easier. I would have liked to have the plug at the front like the original pcb, to keep weight down but the learning curve was too steep.
Yeah, though even if you are matching a pinout, you need to know which pin of the microcontroller goes to which position on the connector. At least it doesn't require replacing the PCB to fix if you get it wrong, just rearrange the connector.