Yamakasi Catleap Monitor Club - Page 1136 - Overclock.net - An Overclocking Community
Forum Jump: 

Yamakasi Catleap Monitor Club

Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #11351 of 11393 (permalink) Old 01-09-2019, 02:04 PM
New to Overclock.net
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Posts: 4
Rep: 0
@verick oh yes, they are working perfectly, thanks again. Now i just need a better gpu to push higher frames.
rubenmoniz is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #11352 of 11393 (permalink) Old 01-09-2019, 11:28 PM
New to Overclock.net
 
xchor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 2
Rep: 0
I have not gotten around to making them yet but I'm very glad to hear it working and thx again for all the help
xchor is offline  
post #11353 of 11393 (permalink) Old 01-15-2019, 09:14 PM
New to Overclock.net
 
Sunreeper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: The Land of Ice and Snow
Posts: 2,362
Rep: 60 (Unique: 52)
So nobody has any advice for my issue that I mentioned a few posts ago?

Quotes and stuff (Click to show)
"The woods are lovely, dark and deep. But I have promises to keep, and miles to go before I sleep." - Robert Frost
Quote:
Now it's been 10,000 years, Man has cried a billion tears,
For what, he never knew. Now man's reign is through.
But through eternal night, The twinkling of starlight.
So very far away, Maybe it's only yesterday.
Sunreeper is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #11354 of 11393 (permalink) Old 01-22-2019, 02:23 PM
New to Overclock.net
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Posts: 4
Rep: 0
@Sunreeper with the little experience i have i can only tell you to check if its not the backlight that is broken and the lcd is still working, since its so dark without backlight the monitor might look off but is indeed on, grab a flashlight and try to illuminate the inside of the screen and check for a faint image.

I once replaced all the electrolytic caps on a monitor and that brought it back to life, more than that i cant really help.
rubenmoniz is offline  
post #11355 of 11393 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 05:09 AM
New to Overclock.net
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Posts: 1
Rep: 0
Hey I just got two of these on facebook last night. One lights up with its backlight and the PC recognizes it but it doesn't output video (and apparently worked a week ago.) Any ideas of what should look for when opening it up to see if I can fix it?
ChieftainAkela is offline  
post #11356 of 11393 (permalink) Old 07-20-2019, 08:27 AM
New to Overclock.net
 
kenshao's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 13
Rep: 1 (Unique: 1)
Hey guys, I was wondering if I got get any help in this.
I have the Yamakasi Catleap q270, this model never overclock past 65hz and I never really wanted to overclock it, so it always stayed default 60hz.
Lately, I have been expering something funny, pretty much when I turn the monitor on, it doesn't display anything, it is black (it is receiving signal properly and windows detects it). After about 5-10 minutes, I start to see some flickering in it, and about 20 minutes later, the flickering becomes the image that's supposed to be displayed by windows. 30-40 minutes later, the image displays properly, so, I'm referring this as my own warmup symptom, as the monitor has to warmup for 30 minutes before being usable.
In the beggining it took only about a couple of minutes, but the time is getting higher and higher.

So, my question is:
Is this issue related to, the LCD panel? Or one of the boards inside the monitor?

I'm asking this, because I'm trying to figure out, in case the issue is one of the boards, if overclocking would be something to try, or simply replacing my board would solve it.
After reading a lot, I realized that I would have to purchase these two board to overclock it if I wanted:

LM270WQ1 driver board LDK-LE256 / HY-2560M - which I can find in here:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3285...chweb201603_52

and
LM270WQ1-SLA1 driver logic board 6870C-0340A T-CON connect board, which I found in here:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3290...chweb201603_52

Now, if I buy these two boards to overclock it, do I need any new cables? Or are the cables that are already inside my monitor enough?

Final question, if the issue is simply in one of my monitor boards, what would be the board PN that I have to buy to replace it to fix this issue without resorting to the OC upgrade? If the cost difference is too high I guess I'll just stick to what I already have.

Any help is appreciated
kenshao is offline  
post #11357 of 11393 (permalink) Old 07-20-2019, 10:36 AM
New to Overclock.net
 
}SkOrPn--''s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Albuquerque, NM USA
Posts: 2,138
Rep: 86 (Unique: 54)
Quote: Originally Posted by kenshao View Post
Hey guys, I was wondering if I got get any help in this.
I have the Yamakasi Catleap q270, this model never overclock past 65hz and I never really wanted to overclock it, so it always stayed default 60hz.
Lately, I have been expering something funny, pretty much when I turn the monitor on, it doesn't display anything, it is black (it is receiving signal properly and windows detects it). After about 5-10 minutes, I start to see some flickering in it, and about 20 minutes later, the flickering becomes the image that's supposed to be displayed by windows. 30-40 minutes later, the image displays properly, so, I'm referring this as my own warmup symptom, as the monitor has to warmup for 30 minutes before being usable.
In the beggining it took only about a couple of minutes, but the time is getting higher and higher.

So, my question is:
Is this issue related to, the LCD panel? Or one of the boards inside the monitor?

I'm asking this, because I'm trying to figure out, in case the issue is one of the boards, if overclocking would be something to try, or simply replacing my board would solve it.
After reading a lot, I realized that I would have to purchase these two board to overclock it if I wanted:

LM270WQ1 driver board LDK-LE256 / HY-2560M - which I can find in here:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3285...chweb201603_52

and
LM270WQ1-SLA1 driver logic board 6870C-0340A T-CON connect board, which I found in here:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3290...chweb201603_52

Now, if I buy these two boards to overclock it, do I need any new cables? Or are the cables that are already inside my monitor enough?

Final question, if the issue is simply in one of my monitor boards, what would be the board PN that I have to buy to replace it to fix this issue without resorting to the OC upgrade? If the cost difference is too high I guess I'll just stick to what I already have.

Any help is appreciated
Almost none of your questions can be answered properly without knowing exactly what is inside the monitor in the first place.

So, I don't know if what I'm about to say is helpful or not and I surely can't guarantee to what I'm about to tell you but I believe your monitor, if it was not originally an well known overclocking model, then your is most likely NOT the two cable tcon design (like mine wasn't). Is yours using display port or HDMI or is it a DVI?

Your issue is most likely to be in the main input pcb, which would be the HY-256 board you listed first as it supplies the power to the panel itself. I do not believe the panel itself has any issues. If I was you I would get the boards you found and send a message to the seller that you need the two LVDS cables to go along with it. Also, if you have a single cable board or display port or HDMI it is very likely going to need a different power supply as well. But we still need to see the sticker on the panel itself and the model number of the boards in question.

Now, if you can take it apart and take close up images I might be able to find a better solution from ebay but I'm not sure about that either until I know more about what you have inside your monitor. There are eBay sellers that have everything you need (except PSU) to do a direct conversion to 60hz Display Port, including the new cables you would need. At least there used to be sellers that did that. I have them bookmarked (saved sellers) at my home PC but I'm not home at the moment.

Let me know exactly what you have, with internal pics and I can do a much better job advising you. Do you have the ability to open up your monitor? Are you good with screw drivers and prying devices apart and more importantly putting them back together? Lol, let me know please and I could help you further.

P.S. By the way, if your here in the States it would probably be better to get these items from ebay, unless you feel really confident in using aliexpress. I mean the tcon is half that cost on ebay, and you can find an entire kit with cables around that cost.

T-CON https://www.ebay.com/itm/6870C-0458A...N/223480750751 (although I wouldn't buy this)

And if you have the SLA1 panel type already, this kit is a cheaper safer route because it already comes with the new LVDS cables etc. https://www.ebay.com/itm/HDMI-VGA-DV...2/122939502641

Let me know exactly what you have please

Last edited by }SkOrPn--'; 07-20-2019 at 11:00 AM.
}SkOrPn--' is offline  
post #11358 of 11393 (permalink) Old 07-20-2019, 04:46 PM
New to Overclock.net
 
kenshao's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 13
Rep: 1 (Unique: 1)
Quote: Originally Posted by }SkOrPn--' View Post
Almost none of your questions can be answered properly without knowing exactly what is inside the monitor in the first place.

So, I don't know if what I'm about to say is helpful or not and I surely can't guarantee to what I'm about to tell you but I believe your monitor, if it was not originally an well known overclocking model, then your is most likely NOT the two cable tcon design (like mine wasn't). Is yours using display port or HDMI or is it a DVI?

Your issue is most likely to be in the main input pcb, which would be the HY-256 board you listed first as it supplies the power to the panel itself. I do not believe the panel itself has any issues. If I was you I would get the boards you found and send a message to the seller that you need the two LVDS cables to go along with it. Also, if you have a single cable board or display port or HDMI it is very likely going to need a different power supply as well. But we still need to see the sticker on the panel itself and the model number of the boards in question.

Now, if you can take it apart and take close up images I might be able to find a better solution from ebay but I'm not sure about that either until I know more about what you have inside your monitor. There are eBay sellers that have everything you need (except PSU) to do a direct conversion to 60hz Display Port, including the new cables you would need. At least there used to be sellers that did that. I have them bookmarked (saved sellers) at my home PC but I'm not home at the moment.

Let me know exactly what you have, with internal pics and I can do a much better job advising you. Do you have the ability to open up your monitor? Are you good with screw drivers and prying devices apart and more importantly putting them back together? Lol, let me know please and I could help you further.

P.S. By the way, if your here in the States it would probably be better to get these items from ebay, unless you feel really confident in using aliexpress. I mean the tcon is half that cost on ebay, and you can find an entire kit with cables around that cost.

T-CON https://www.ebay.com/itm/6870C-0458A...N/223480750751 (although I wouldn't buy this)

And if you have the SLA1 panel type already, this kit is a cheaper safer route because it already comes with the new LVDS cables etc. https://www.ebay.com/itm/HDMI-VGA-DV...2/122939502641

Let me know exactly what you have please

Hey, Thanks a lot for the input. Both ebay and aliexpress should be fine. I just didn't go to ebay before because I couldnt find any parts (just copy pasted some huge strings to find nothing).
I just disassembled it and took as many pics as I could.
My model is the DVI-DL one. Since I have to replace at least one board anyway my preference would try to get an overclockable one, unless it gets too expensive. After taking the pics, I realized my panel is SDE3 (I don't if it supports OC even with the right parts unfortunately, if there's this option it would be perfect).

Anyway, I took as many pics as I could and posted here, I saw the kit on your link and even know I have some skills, my preference would be to try replace as few as possible parts (but I don't think that'll be possible, most likely i'll need a full kit + new PSU)

https://imgur.com/a/s8vsEXT

I'm no eletronics expert, but after taking the pictures, my HY-256 looks in really bad shape.

Finally, after some reading and checking the pics, and confirming my panel is SDE3 and this kit could prob fix my issue (although prob having the same button issue that I would have to figure out). If there's no OC option, I like the idea of this kit, (HDMI+DP), unless a new kit or just the HY-256 alone that only has DVI is like 10 bucks. Even with that, the kit might be better for me since the cables inside my monitor also looks horrible.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/HDMI-DVI-DP...EAAOSwNXpchj2j

I didn't look a whole lot more, but do you know if there's an OC kit for my panel that also supports HDMI and DP? That would be really sweet.

Last edited by kenshao; 07-20-2019 at 05:33 PM.
kenshao is offline  
post #11359 of 11393 (permalink) Old 07-20-2019, 05:47 PM
New to Overclock.net
 
}SkOrPn--''s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Albuquerque, NM USA
Posts: 2,138
Rep: 86 (Unique: 54)
Well that was easy, all I needed was the LG sticker info, and with that you have the LM270WQ1-SDE3 setup. So just get a conversion kit for that. You will or will not need a new PSU because to be frank I have no clue what power your SDE3 requires. But this Kit requires a 12V 4A psu. The seller will, should have a link to the proper PSU as well if yours doesn't work. Again these kits are super simple dumbed down boards, so the GPU will do all the driving of the panel. READ the below listing very carefully please. I found this listing simply by typing "LM270WQ1-SDE3 controller driver kit" and I can not vouch for the seller, although they have good seller ratings, I would trust them myself at 99.5%.

Oh and these kits probably will not be drop in kits, in other words you may need double sided tape just to get them to fit, or like me may need to have the button PCB just hanging out on your desk, lol. But hey you get your working IPS 1440p monitor back for a much better cost over a new unit.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/HDMI-DP-DVI...3/123686129209
}SkOrPn--' is offline  
post #11360 of 11393 (permalink) Old 07-20-2019, 06:05 PM
New to Overclock.net
 
kenshao's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 13
Rep: 1 (Unique: 1)
Quote: Originally Posted by }SkOrPn--' View Post
Well that was easy, all I needed was the LG sticker info, and with that you have the LM270WQ1-SDE3 setup. So just get a conversion kit for that. You will or will not need a new PSU because to be frank I have no clue what power your SDE3 requires. But this Kit requires a 12V 4A psu. The seller will, should have a link to the proper PSU as well if yours doesn't work. Again these kits are super simple dumbed down boards, so the GPU will do all the driving of the panel. READ the below listing very carefully please. I found this listing simply by typing "LM270WQ1-SDE3 controller driver kit" and I can not vouch for the seller, although they have good seller ratings, I would trust them myself at 99.5%.

Oh and these kits probably will not be drop in kits, in other words you may need double sided tape just to get them to fit, or like me may need to have the button PCB just hanging out on your desk, lol. But hey you get your working IPS 1440p monitor back for a much better cost over a new unit.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/HDMI-DP-DVI...3/123686129209

After reassembling the monitor I got scared to death. I did a quick test and got input, then proceeded to fully close it. When I plugged, I was having the same warmup issue, but it took almost an hour to get it back. I really thought I had damaged something in the process
I'll get the kit on the link you showed. About the PSU i'll have to get a new one. The one that came with the monitor has that strange 4 pin setup, it's 24v 5a currently, so I'll just get a standard 12v 5a for the new board. Hopefully I'll be able to fit the PCB inside my case (maybe I can cut the bezel a little bit if needed to accommodate the PCB inside.

Thanks a lot for the help!
kenshao is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Overclock.net - An Overclocking Community forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off