[Official] The Qnix/X-Star 1440p Monitor Club - Page 153 - Overclock.net - An Overclocking Community

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[Official] The Qnix/X-Star 1440p Monitor Club

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post #1521 of 26180 (permalink) Old 05-19-2013, 09:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fagoatse View Post

indeed, it is.
Btw, why didnt you cover height in your test?
My panel was sitting too low, and that was what I was trying to correct. I doubt anyone's panel is sitting too high. Anyways it's easy if you want to open up paint, zoom in all the way, and then draw a few lines of the smallest size on the top.
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Originally Posted by UNOE View Post

Anyone have more detail on how to do a tape mod. Is it just taping the bezel/frame or does the tape need to overlap slightly onto the panel ?
It depends if you mean to correct light bleed or panel play/position.

I might be wrong on this, but I think to correct BLB you tape over the seam of the two pieces of metal that make up the back side of the panel itself.
For panel play/position, you are taping the back of the housing where the metal shims sit to force the shims to sit more tightly/higher.
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Originally Posted by ssss69 View Post

Anyone knows a tutorial to force games to 120hz? They only work if I get rid of full window mode. V-sync also limitis to 60hz. I have a nvidia card

Download and run a program called Nvidia Inspector. Click the button for Driver Profile Settings on the line that says "Driver Version". Scroll all the way to the bottom of the window that comes up. about 6th from the last setting you should see "preferred refresh rate". Click the dropdown and select "highest available". Then the button in the top right "Apply Changes". Restart.
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post #1522 of 26180 (permalink) Old 05-19-2013, 10:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeadGivaway View Post



I might be wrong on this, but I think to correct BLB you tape over the seam of the two pieces of metal that make up the back side of the panel itself.
For panel play/position, you are taping the back of the housing where the metal shims sit to force the shims to sit more tightly/higher.

Can anyone confirm where to place the tape and how much to use? I just wanna know exactly how to do this so I don't screw up haha. The pictures in the OP didn't really explain the process all that well.
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post #1523 of 26180 (permalink) Old 05-19-2013, 11:31 AM
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Ah this is the first I am hearing that you can use NV Inspector to enable games to use higher refresh. The other way is the Catleap2B INF file.

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post #1524 of 26180 (permalink) Old 05-19-2013, 12:57 PM
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Im new to monitor OCing, I was messing around with the nvidia control panel, but I have no idea what total pixels in the timing section are for. Can anyone tell me what it's for?


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post #1525 of 26180 (permalink) Old 05-19-2013, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Hand_Grenade View Post

Im new to monitor OCing, I was messing around with the nvidia control panel, but I have no idea what total pixels in the timing section are for. Can anyone tell me what it's for?


set it to auto, just change Hz value and you're good to go.
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post #1526 of 26180 (permalink) Old 05-19-2013, 01:14 PM
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Tried auto already and I kept seeing blue lines when I played any game and the overclocker in me wants to tweak everything .tongue.gif

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post #1527 of 26180 (permalink) Old 05-19-2013, 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Hand_Grenade View Post

Tried auto already and I kept seeing blue lines when I played any game and the overclocker in me wants to tweak everything .tongue.gif
That probably means you can't hit 120Hz, try a lower value for the refresh rate first then work up.

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post #1528 of 26180 (permalink) Old 05-19-2013, 02:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hand_Grenade View Post

Tried auto already and I kept seeing blue lines when I played any game and the overclocker in me wants to tweak everything .tongue.gif

Lower total pixels reduces the DVI frequency bandwidth needed, try lowering it by 10-20 until you get a black screen, then leave it right before that. Reducing the bandwidth (mhz) can sometimes stabilize a refresh rate that is close to being workable smile.gif. It helped me a lot, to get 120hz stable that way. My OC looks like this for 120hz:

120hz.png

You can also try reducing sync width and front porch verticals to "2" each.

Have a problem with your FUD being dispelled by fact checkers?
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post #1529 of 26180 (permalink) Old 05-19-2013, 03:14 PM
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Got my monitor to work!!! This thing is beautiful! After talking back and forth with the seller, he told me to disassemble the monitor and check all the connections, so I did. I will post some pictures below. I disconnected every cable I could find and reattached them and put everything back together. Knew I was in business when I plugged the power cable in and was greated with a blinking red LED on the front thumb.gif First time that has been on. I did notice however that when I put the 4 screws back in and tightened them, the LED went away. After messing around with it, there seems to be some kind of short or connection issue in the middle of the monitor somewhere. I can press in around the "QNIX" logo and it will flicker on and off. Left the screws out and all is good. I will be doing bleed tests and pixel tests later and will more than likely be taking it apart again to put the electric tape around the metal casing. But I am a happy camper now! The guides posted on the first page are amazing. Got me through this whole thing with hardly any problems (Broke one of the small clips on a cable connector. No biggie).













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post #1530 of 26180 (permalink) Old 05-19-2013, 04:00 PM
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I pulled the trigger! Hulustar don't fail me now! Crossing my fingers that this works out as well as my Celeron 300a! That's for us old timers. thumb.gif
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