10/27/14: Updated info on OCing True10 monitors. Added info on how to OC monitor on Mac OSx
10/19/14: Added design request on OP, also added first-time buyers tips. Added new header graphic!
8/19/14: Added info on Nvidia 780ti overclock patching. Thanks BGKris for letting me know.
7/14/14: General updating
7/12/14: Added info about the 10-bit panel models to FAQ.
5/21/14: Dusting off cobwebs. Updated Nvidia OC instructions. Added "color sustainer" to color profiles.
- - - - Added warning that multi-input monitors dont game well.
2/8/2014: Added some ICC profiles
12/26/13: Updated manufacturer websites. Updated FAQ.
9/12/13: Added data sheet for internal Samsung screen in "Relevant discussion and information links"
9/9/13: OP back to normal and added to vesa stand section
8/26/13: Updated verifying monitor OCs. Updated Tape Mod section.
8/19/13: Updated monitor OC procedure.
7/28/13: Added to FAQ.
7/22/13: Added Tek-Syndicate review.
7/12/13: Added a (futile) attempt to get new members to actually read the OP.
7/3/13: Added info to the "Tape Mod" section. Updated FAQ and OP layout.
6/28/13: Added vesa mounting de-bezeled monitor section
6/25/13: Finished verifying all members. All legit!
6/6/13: Added members list photo verification
5/28/13: Added "Official" status, mod De-Zant approved.
5/31/13: Added to reviews section. Added members list analysis section.
5/26-27/13: Added to FAQ section
5/15/13: Added to 'Reviews' section
5/8/13: Added color calibration profiles for monitors with same PLS screen (Asus, Samsung, and Viewsonic).
5/4/13: Added change log. Added Tape Mod in help section. Added some FAQ points.
5/3/13: Added additional color calibration profiles.
4/27/13: Added FAQ section.
4/22/2013: Club founded, thread started. Compiled information into OP.
ALL Multi-input / True10 models WON'T OVERCLOCK
Added on 10-27-14: Some have reported that the newer True10 monitors can OC to roughly 85 Hz. YMMV
PLEASE check out this post [CLICK] for some solid suggestions on what to look out for and avoid if buying a PLS monitor. This dedicated PLS Club Member tries to do periodic updates as to what is good, what is bad.
Q: Why Korean PLS monitors? What is different about them?
A: Here is some back story: IPS Korean monitors have been around for awhile now, but with increasing popularity their prices have risen. Overclocking variants cost even more.
Out of this comes new Korean variants using the Samsung PLS screen, specifically the Qnix and the X-star, which offer the same (if not better) image quality of the popular IPS and have a very good chance of overclocking to 120 Hz.
Q: Is it worth it to buy a pixel perfect monitor?
A: No. All evidence as of now suggests that probability of receiving a monitor with no or little dead pixels is random, even if purchasing a 'pixel perfect' monitor. It seems that it is a marketing ploy for them to get more money.
Q: Does the single-input version of these monitors overclock?
A: Yes. To see the various overclocks (OCs) reported, look to the expandable section below titled "Members List Form Submission Trends, Analysis" and look for the pie graph of reported OCs.
Q: Does the multi-input model of these monitors overclock?
A: No. Even connecting the multi-input monitor via dual-link DVI will not result in it being able to overclock.
Q: Is the multi-input model of these monitors good for gaming?
A: No. They have "two frames of input lag" and thus are very bad for gaming.
Q: Does the TRUE10 model (10-bit panel) overclock? How is the input-lag?
A: No it does not overclock (regardless of what they try and tell you, for the time being). Added on 10-27-14: Some have reported that the newer True10 monitors can OC to roughly 85 Hz. YMMV
Input lag is worse than on the 8-bit panel version. DO NOT get this if you are trying to game. These are graphic design specific panels, and you probably need a 10-bit specific graphics card to even make use of the 10-bit color depth.
Q: Can I buy a monitor that will OC to 120 Hz, guaranteed?
A: No, not as far as I know. There are theories that monitors sold by certain sellers have a better chance to OC higher, but it is considered to be random.
Q: Does the DVI cable used have an effect on OC ability?
A: Some have reported better and worse OCs from using a different cable than that included. Some have also reported varrying OCs with switching their GPU. YMMV
Q: Do any issues come from overclocking, i.e. does it affect reliability?
A: Unknown at this time. However, other korean monitors have been overclocked for years with no issues.
Q: Should I buy an X-star or a Qnix (Any differences? Which one will overclock better?)
A: Short answer: Choose whichever one you want.
Long answer: They have the same screen, (both samsung PLS), and look almost identical other than their logo. Neither one has been proven to be clearly better, at this time. The general consensus is believed that they have the same random OC-ability.
Q: Should I buy a matte or glossy monitor?
A: Glossy is superior for image clarity (clarity = sharpness of image. not 'quality' or 'color' of image). The Matte coating on these monitors is semi-Glossy, not a thick Matte coating so it isn't as obtrusive as traditional matte coating. So, choosing Matte or Glossy comes down to if you will be bothered by reflections. If there is a potential for daylight or electrical light reflection, do not get Glossy.
Q: Can i remove the stock stand (base and stem) and mount the monitor?
A: Yes. Both the qnix and x-star have 100mm vesa mount pattern, so mounting is possible. Removing the base is easy (unscrew the thumb screw on the bottom), but removing the clear stem requires opening the monitor casing and unscrewing it. There are multiple videos and pictures below in the "Monitor fixes, support, help" area describing how to open the monitor casing. Once the monitor casing is opened, it is easy to see how to unscrew the screws holding in the base stem.
Q: Will I be able to notice the response time and/or input lag (especially in gaming)?
A: Many users, myself included, have noticed motion blur during FPS gaming (such as planetside 2). It would be even more noticeable in 'twitch' gaming. It is fine for regular use (Leauge of Legends, Guildwars 2, etc.), but gaming professionals should look elsewhere.
Q: Is the panel 6 or 8 bit?
A: Panel is 8 bit.
Q: Differences between IPS and PLS? (why is one better than the other, if that?)
A: IPS is made by LG and PLS is made by Samsung. They are both pretty much the same thing, but technically PLS is better.
Q: I don't live in the U.S.. How much will I have to pay in additional shipping fees, VAT, taxes, etc.?
A: Look at the expandable section below titled "VAT, Fees, Taxes by Country"
Q: Does my monitor have any dead pixels or back light bleed?
A: Here is a good website to check. Choose a color and make it full screen to check dead/stuck pixels. For checking back light bleed, choose the black and make it full screen. Make your surroundings as dark as possible with no lights or daylight.
Q: Oh noe, I received a monitor and it has back light bleed (BLB)!! How will I know if it is worthy of getting a return over?
A: Some ebay sellers straight up say that BLB is not something they take returns over. There have been exceptions, however. So take pictures of the monitor in the best standardized way to show BLB. Refer to the "Monitor Fixes, Support, Help" section below for the subsection titled "How to properly take pictures of your backlight bleed" to learn how to take pictures of the BLB, and post them here on this forum.
Q: Is there a way to fix back light bleed (BLB)?
A: Possibly, to some degree. Look below in the expandable section titled "Tape mod to fix Back Light Bleed"
Q: What GPU should I have to support the resolution of this monitor?
A: For non-gaming, anything is fine as long as it has the DVI-D port. For gaming, a card with 2GB GDDR5 is recommended and anything above that is great. Below 2GB will work, just not the best for modern games.
Some analysis on the members list submissions, done by yours truly These should not be a persons ONLY source in buying advice. If unsure, ask us about a seller or specific listing.
This is simply to show trends in what members here have purchased thus far. Enjoy
Australia/NZ: from evangelionstar
I am from Australia but also familiar with New Zealand's limits too.
There is no tax or duties payable in Australia for an item via post or courier so long as the total cost is below $1000. Its very straight forward. Value under $1000 and your all set.
For Nz its around $400 or so (from memory). Basically if the charges of Duty + GST is less than $60NZD then nothing is payable.
Canada: from keveinsbane
In Canada, there is no Customs or duties for complete LCD colour monitors.
There is no tax on "gifts" valued at <$60, and no tax on any items < $20 value. Tax in Canada varies depending on your province.
My monitor was marked as a $30 value, and I paid no taxes or duties on my purchase.
Estonia: from skypc
Ordered Catleap to Estonia from Green-sum. Green-sum stated on invoice the worth of te monitor as 30$ and the shipping price was about 110$. Tax was calculated from worth stated on invoice + shipping price and I had to pay 25% from this sum, $140.
France: from charlesk
So I'm from France and I paid for a 311€ ($406) monitor :
customs duty : 43 €
VAT : 69€ (19.6%)
filing fees : 21€
total : 133€
So here is what happened :
- the parcel got stuck in customs, reason : no invoice
- 1 week after I received a letter from the customs. They asked for an invoice and the paypal receipt
- I asked dreamseller for the invoice, he said that he could make one with the value I wanted, but I didn't want to fake the paypal receipt so I declared the real price.
What I just did for a new order (dreamseller) :
- I asked him to join an invoice with a credible value in the parcel ($200), so that the parcel can go trough customs without them contacting me.
- with this, VAT should be lower, but I don't know about the other two taxes, I'll see.
Japan: from mumbles37
No customs or import fees to Japan
Netherlands: from djankie
Custom fees with green sum : 35.81 euro.
Custom fees with samsungDC or something; 43,41
Sweden: from slaktfarfar
After my Catleap got stuck in customs i had to pay 25% of what i paid for the screen ($394) which was $98.
I bought mine from Green-sum.
And i know another one ordering from green-sum also had to pay taxes.
But another guy ordering from dcsamsungmall didnt have to.
green-sum used EMS and dcsamsungmall used fedex maybe thats was because.
If you are unlucky and receive a monitor with bad back light bleed (BLB), you will probably be thinking "Can I return my monitor for this?" and want others opinions on it. To properly show the level of BLB your monitor has, here are some standards to guide you to photograph your monitor. This will help members here judge if your BLB is manageable or unacceptable.
Originally Posted by dascth
The (Not So?) Dummies Guide to Taking Pictures of Your Backlight Bleed
(sorry videos and pics are so dark, view them in the dark I guess)
So check out this interesting video I just took of my monitor while using a polarized lens on my Sony NEX5: http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLnVkA6ZcoQv5NLGdxhAoDF5g9jJmwA8xF
Assuming the LCD panel is letting through vertically polarized light (up-down waves), which is just a guess, then when the lens filter is rotated to only let through horizontal light, ZERO light gets through and it appears black. Viewing the panel up close with the filter trying to block all light, what do you notice? It can't block the corner light as it's actually at a different phase. Only when I step farther away from the screen am I able to see that all light hitting my camera is at the same phase (approximately of course). This greater distance from the screen is the correct test scenario for checking for backlight bleed if you're only going to take a single picture.
So, a lot of backlight bleed isn't what we're talking about on here when we say "my monitor has really bad backlight bleed". Some of the light comes through even though we don't want it to, but only when viewed at angles. This is standard and unavoidable for LCD panels universally. Light coming straight out of the screen should all be at the same phase angle (think of an up-down wave or a left-right wave as examples of waves of light at different phases). This is because light of any other phase is blocked by the polarization filter in the screen. When viewing the screen from an angle (which is what you're doing when you're up close and looking around the edge of the screen), you can see light of a different phase (and more of it) passing through the LCD panel. This is what gives LCDs that annoying "shimmer" as you move your head around while looking at an LCD. Unless you have a plasma screen, CRT, or OLED panel for a computer monitor, just get used to it. So, you're not looking for backlight bleed (this out of phase light coming to your eye at an angle) from places you're viewing at an angle, you're looking for it from areas directly in front of your eye/camera.
So, below are some pictures to show the effect in action, but the rule is:
I don't have a great separate picture for this, but due to the R/G/B sub-pixel arrangement (I believe), you're going to see red or yellow colors from out of phase light from the right of the screen and blue or green light from the left side of the screen (unless you're somehow hanging from the ceiling or have mounted your monitor upside-down). As you can see from the pictures of my monitor, mine appears to have that nasty yellow bleed from the top right, but it's really only the standard out-of-phase light from corners, and is on the right side of the screen. It goes away once you view it straight-on.
I know this is a large post, but last thing, I promise...
Pinching of the screen or other issues that cause the "real" backlight bleed usually still use the effect described above to discolor the screen or add extra light, but it's visible even when viewed straight-on. That's the difference.
Update your video card drivers to the newest version.
If using a crossfire (multi AMD GPU) setup, than multiple crossfire bridges must be used. For example, if crossfiring two GPUs than two crossfire bridges must be used.
Note: If you have a 200 or below series Nvidia card (ex: GTX260, etc.), reports suggest that an OC above 96 Hz is not possible. Time for an upgade! Step 2
Update: Single nvidia card owners are now recommended to NOT use CRU. Instead use the NvCP and the qnix drivers linked directly below.
QNIX monitor driver for Nvidia (Instructions inside) QNIXmonitordriver.zip 1k .zip file
To use the utility above: click the stock 60Hz profile, press the copy button, make a new profile and then use the paste button. This has created a mirror image of the stock profile. Next, just edit the refresh rate number at the bottom (should be 60 originally) to something like 96. Here is some explanation + pictures of the window that pops up to edit your custom refresh rate in CRU[CLICK]. This makes a refresh rate profile for your computer of 96 Hz. Once that's done, reboot your computer can go into your computer settings (catalyst control center for AMD) and choose the refresh rate that you just created.
If having bad OC results, it may help to have the "LCD Reduced" enabled in CRU. Also, in CCC enable Reduce DVI Frequency. Step 4
Test and verify your OC. Some use cameras with specific shutter speeds and such, which works. A method less time-consuming is to go to this website and check it. http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping
Open the website, let your computer sit and do not move the mouse or switch screens. It should stabilize after a moment and a green verified box will appear and next to it, the refresh rate.
Originally Posted by mdrejhon
You are testing the TestUFO Frame Skipping test at www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping correctly, and 85Hz is definitely frameskipping. However, there's a way to make testing easier. Right now, your frameskipping photo is currently currently capturing too few frames; try for a longer camera exposure.
To trick any cheap camera into doing that:
1. Adjust your "Exposure Compensation" setting in your camera to a higher setting; and
2. Lower the brightness of your monitor by a lot. This forces your camera to take a longer exposure.
For easier frameskipping determination, you need to take a picture of at least 1/10th second (capture about 6+ squares), and preferably 1/5th second (capture about 10+ squares) for a more accurate frameskipping analysis. The first visible square should be more than 2 squares away from the last visible square, or it won't easily help you determine frameskipping.
Example valid photo of non-frameskipping:
Example valid photo of frameskipping:
But yes, very good test of the frameskipping & you have correctly determined your display is frameskipping at 85Hz. I've amended the instructions at www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping to also use a longer camera exposure, since it makes it much easier. to detect frameskipping.
Secondary verification tests: The moving photo test at www.testufo.com/#test=photo should show obvious microstutters on a frameskipping display. (provided your GPU/browser is not the bottleneck, but it appears this is not the case for you as Chrome manages perfect synchronization running as the only window on systems that has everything chrome://gpu is enabled). Frameskipping will be much easier to see when playing VSYNC ON than when playing VSYNC OFF. Strafing left/right at high speeds at close distances to high-detail objects during fully synchronized framerate=Hz VSYNC ON will show microstutters on a frameskipping display.
Update (5/21/14): If you need to tighten your timings for higher overclocks, most people do @110Hz+, for Nvidia cards it should look like this ...
Originally Posted by TomcatV
EDIT2: For older 400/500 series single Nvidia GPU's you WILL need the full patch for higher OC's (96/120Hz) because of their coded pixel clock limit ...
ToastyX quote ... If you have a 400/500-series GPU or if you have an SLI setup, you MUST use the full patch to get 110/120 Hz even if you're using the NVIDIA control panel instead of CRU. The Titan and the GTX 780 might not need the full patch for SLI, but I'm not able to verify that myself.
I will add that all Nvidia SLI+ users are still using the full patch for any overclock over 60Hz, IIRC.
Update (5/21/14): It is now recommended to use a program for monitoring color profiles. Check it out in the following quote
Originally Posted by TomcatV
Color Sustainerby Yasamoka
As far as correcting the color shift with overclocking or just having a custom color profile, once again the OP should be updated with the "Color Sustainer" LINKS! Windows color management is horrible and if you don't have your own calibrator ... Many of us have found Yasamoka's program to be quite useful AND YaZ himself is here to help! Just be warned some of the older profiles (like the Asus one) need a workaround found [HERE], yaz will help.
Interesting thread [HERE] and how Color Sustainer works with game profiles further proving how inadequate Windows is for color management!
Hope you get better results! Please let us know how it works out for you
EDIT: Below is a DL of my favorite "Color Sustainer" profiles ... Remember every monitor is different and there is no "Right or Wrong" color profile as it really comes down to personal preference ... Thanks to Yaz/Lawson/Watagump
Some wise words about choosing the 'right' color calibration profile:
Originally Posted by dascth
As a general rule, try out calibrations from different people and when you find one that is meant for your settings that LOOKS GOOD on a reference image (no color in gray scales, not washed out, etc), remember the person that posted it and stick to their calibrations; they likely have a panel with similar color characteristics. It really isn't about "his are better" since each calibration is likely perfect for the person doing it. You just need to figure out whose panel is like yours, or just suck it up and buy colorimeter (got mine on ebay for $40).
Originally Posted by Spartan F8
(If you have not spent hundreds of dollars on a professional color calibrator) This site has the best test for color calibration IF the predefined profiles do not work for you. http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/
Profiles for the name-brand monitors that have the same PLS panel inside of them as the QNIX & X-star might work out for you. Calibrations posted [CLICK] here at TFT Central may be stock factory and/or personal calibrations for said monitors. Personally, out of every calibration profile posted here the Asus PB278Q.icc (TFT Central source, not User source) looked the best on my monitor, and is a favorite for others as well. (It becomes named Asus PB278Q v3.icc when loaded into windows color management).
Name brand monitors that have the same PLS panel internally Go to tft central and download these: Asus PB278Q
Since you were having such problems with getting bright enough, I targeted 1.8 gamma instead of 2.2, so it should appear even brighter than before, especially in the subtle dark areas. Should help pull out shadow detail in bright environments. If you use this in dark environments or at lower than 100Hz, it'll probably seem a bit washed out, just warning you.
Made new profiles, changed the gamma curve from flat 2.2 to sRGB gamma which is the industry standard for use on monitors, printers, and the Internet. 60hz 96hz
Been using 2.2 for years until I tried using the sRGB gamma recently, dark details become easier to see and movies & TV shows look more natural.
My previous profiles were with brightness of 11 clicks from the minimum (120cd/cm2) and this new ones are done with 17 clicks (180cd/cm2) and the whites look so much better now even though they were already great before.
They are both set to 2.2 gamma, 6500k white point and 180cd/cm2 (17 clicks from the minimum). The 96hz profile wrongly says that that it's done with 120cd/cm2, while it's done with 180cd/cm2 and the 110hz profile wrongly says that it's a 120hz profile, while it's in fact 110hz. And please let me know how they work for you. Quite a few have like them the most so I'd suggest any one of you without your own calibration device to give them a go!
Originally Posted by Vesanius
So I finally managed to calibrate my monitor with a third part software (dispcalGUI in my case) and the difference to my old profiles is HUGE. I didn't realize how blueish my whites were before and especially the black levels are superior compared to my old profiles. So I highly recommend anyone with Qnix to give this new profile of mine a go. My Qnix is running @ 96hz and the profile is done to 2.2 gamma, 6.5k whitepoint and with 180cd/cm2 backlight, which in my monitor is 17 clicks from the minimum.
This is a solution I found to stop the screen from being able to move inside the monitor casing, aka "Panel Play." It also solves the screen image from being cut off on the bottom by having the screen sit higher inside the monitor casing. It is a simple fix only requiring a flat-edged tool (screw driver), some patience and some electrical tape. I have quoted myself from a different thread.
Originally Posted by wntrsnowg
Originally Posted by Jinru
Found a bunch of youtube vids of a guy showcasing his QX2710.
My QNIX from hulustar had this play within the monitor case, once I knew about it I had to fix it. Also, my screen sat too low in the monitor case and cut off the image a little.
Originally Posted by cor35vet
Not really accurate, just try pushing the plastic at these spots with a screwdriver from the side. It isn't really hard.
I followed the post above and its image to open up the monitor case.
After following this, you will see that the front portion of the monitor casing (the bezel) comes off. From this point, the screen isn't removable since it is attached to the metal frames on each side with 2 screws per side. Unscrew those 2 screws and the screen is now able to move around, with the monitor connections still connected. Be careful!
Found this inside. A Samsung PLS panel, that confirms that.
The metal frame that holds the monitor in place rests inside the bottom of the monitor case, as circled in red. To solve my image being cut off on the bottom, I wanted to add something here as a spacer.
Another view of where the metal frame rests on. This is the bottom of the monitor case.
Decided to use electrical tape as a spacer. Added 3 layers of electrical tape on the 4 raised circle areas that go up each side of the monitor case edge where the metal frame rests on. You can slightly still see the raised circular areas underneath the tape. This solves the 'play' that the monitor screen has within the monitor case, and also pushes the screen closer towards the bezel and closes that ugly gap.
A close up of the above image. The bottom-most red circle on this image is where the metal screen frame rests on. This is where I also added some pieces of electrical tape so the screen would sit higher in the monitor casing. Now, my screen image doesn't getting cut off anymore.
The results. Perfectly centered image and no screen panel rocking back and forth internally
Comprehensive video playlist showing how to do the dismantle the monitor and do the Tape Mod found here (CLICK). This starts on video 1 of 17. To streamline the process, it is suggested to watch videos 1-5, skip 6-10, watch 11-13. Assembly is in the reverse order.
Originally Posted by rushstrike
Alright I got mine and found that it has 0 dead pixels however it had a terrible light bleed in the bottom right corner (like my other korean monitors). I tried to use my finger and massaged the area and pushed it and eventually got the light bleed to go away however it causes that same area to be darker than normal. I can use my 2 finger and push on it to make it more uniform.... I knew even if I return this monitor the next one I get would probably have the same light bleed or possible more dead pixels.
SOLUTION TO FIX BOTTOM RIGHT LIGHT BLEED
After a week I couldn't stand it anymore so I decided to open the thing up to fix it. The monitor indeed is a PLS monitor : http://www.panelook.com/LTM270DL02_SAMSUNG_27.0_LCM_overview_12403.html
All I did was made sure that the panel sit flush against the frame and added black electrical tape at the bottom right on top of the glass piece around the LED array to make sure there's no light leak. Now my monitor is perfect granted i caused 1 dead pixel in the process.
Light bleed gone but still has some annoying dark region Dark pixels lessen if I push against it Time to open it up and give it a real fix
No more light bleed or dark region!
*Current club signup form crashed due to so many signups!*
I am home now... opened the monitor, zero dead pixels I can find atm, I think the blacklight bleed is very minimal and I've overclocked it straight to 120Hz (after a driver update). Seems to be working so far. xD very very impressed, happy, and relieved that it works so well.
No modifications yet. PS: 130Hz standard gets some tiny artifacts. Gonna test some more and take some pictures too
So final bill was £ 276.40 that is including the 62.51 customs charge , overall I cant see any dead pixels and back light bleed aint too bad at all and I cant see much difference from the glossy First FSM-270YV monitor i had before. I am happy with this purchase I just need to overclock it but I will save that for tomorrow.
Thanks for starting this up. Some quick snippet info that might be useful to people and that you can add to your original post:
driver patch method for overclocking and "Automatic - LCD reduced" trick to get 120Hz
the point that changing refresh rate changes monitor gamma
list of most common problems people have: screen play, blacklight bleed/cloud, yellow bleed
how to remove stand (pretty simple, just two screws after you open up case and tip up LCD panel)
force people to learn this difference between DVI-D and Dual Link DVI (is this wishful thinking?)
I'll edit if I think of any more.
how to adjust tilt pressure (loosen/tighten the same screws you take out to remove stand)
how to get out of test mode (if I ever figure it out )