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Bezel Painting Guide

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post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-24-2013, 08:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Bezel Painting Guide

(If you want to see another guide, a user named moxx painted his bezels with Plasti-Dip and it came out great, link to his guide here)

Unfortunately for people who are wanting to paint their glossy black bezels matte black, this guide will not contain a full picture set of how to do that as I did not do it myself - I painted the metal bezels of the LCD sub-panel - but I am relatively sure of how to go about turning glossy bezels to matte, which I will explain.

What do I need?:
- Rust-Oleum Professional High Performance Enamel Spray Paint - Flat Black (link)
- Rust-Oleum Painter's Touch Multi-Purpose Spray Paint - Flat Black Primer (link) (my pic)
- 400 Grit (very fine) Sandpaper
- 2 small cardboard boxes to prop your bezel up off the ground (so you can easily paint the sides)
- Trim Tools (optional) (link) (my pic)

How do I remove my bezels?:
- I recommend using some 'trim tools' (linked above) to help you pry apart your monitor without scratching anything. They are quite durable as well.
- Google your specific monitor model + debezel guide. (Link to playlist of Qnix specific debezel)

Specific directions for Glossy Bezels:
1. Take the 400 grit sandpaper and rough up the glossy surface around the entire bezel. This is going to give the paint something to adhere to without marring the actual plastic and creating deep grooves.
2. Clean off all the debris created by using the sandpaper on glossy paint. Use a hose or something...
3. Dry it off, but make sure whatever you dry it with doesn't leave too many little fibers or whatever behind.

The remainder of the directions apply to both Glossy and Metal Bezels:
4. Take the Rust-Oleum Plastic Primer and shake it really well for about 30 seconds. Do a little test spray on some cardboard. Then apply the first and only coat. I did about 2 sprays back and forth on each bezel side to make sure I got a good, even coating. I held the spray can about 6-8 inches from the bezel. Tip: Start spraying before the spray nozzle is even in front of the bezel...this way you don't end up with too much paint on the corners from where you would've first started spraying. You'll see what I mean in the pics below, if that wasn't clear.
5. Wait 20-30 minutes for the Primer to dry. It dries pretty quickly.
6. Take the Rust-Oleum Enamel Spray Paint and shake it for 30 seconds, then test it. Apply your first coat. Use the same spray method as above.
7. Wait 15-20 minutes for the first Enamel coat to dry.
8. Apply the second Enamel Spray Paint coat.
9. Wait 20-30 minutes for the second Enamel coat to dry.
10. Come back and inspect your work. Is the paint too thick in a certain area and have little 'pock' marks because the paint dried funny there? If so, take your 400 grit sandpaper and gently sand that small area. Use your finger to brush away the dust created from using the sandpaper. Do one more coat of paint just on the edge of the bezel that you sanded.
11. Wait 24-48 hours for the paint to fully dry/set.

Good job, you now have sexy matte bezels. thumb.gif

Here are some pictures:

Spray paint set up:


Finished product:


Real life:


Hope that helps, if I was unclear on something or you have a question about something, feel free to ask...
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post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-24-2013, 11:22 PM
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Amazing guide

The Qnix's glossy bezel makes the blacks look less deep vs. being paired with a matte bezel.

Google (insert monitor) review before making a thread about it. Research (Google) before buying a monitor and then asking if it is good.

10 Bit Monitors: 99% are 8 bit+FRC and AMD Quadro or Nvidia Firepro gpu's are required to send+receive a true 10 bit signal. 10 bit consumer content (games, movies TV) does not exist.
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post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-25-2013, 07:18 AM
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THANKS, so much.

definitely inspired to do similar. unfortunately the Rust-Oleum paint is unavailable locally at home depot/rona, and amazon.com doesnt ship to canada. I will have to find something similar.

any guide coming on mounting the box to the panel, like the epoxy you used or anything else special you did. Even more pics of the back would be great to see how you mounted it all.
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post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-25-2013, 08:17 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ForceD View Post

THANKS, so much.

definitely inspired to do similar. unfortunately the Rust-Oleum paint is unavailable locally at home depot/rona, and amazon.com doesnt ship to canada. I will have to find something similar.

any guide coming on mounting the box to the panel, like the epoxy you used or anything else special you did. Even more pics of the back would be great to see how you mounted it all.

Perhaps look for a brand called Krylon?

Yes, the guide for 'mounting the PCB box to the panel' is coming tonight...hopefully I can think of a better title for the guide than that tongue.gif.
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post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-25-2013, 02:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ForceD View Post

THANKS, so much.

definitely inspired to do similar. unfortunately the Rust-Oleum paint is unavailable locally at home depot/rona, and amazon.com doesnt ship to canada. I will have to find something similar.

any guide coming on mounting the box to the panel, like the epoxy you used or anything else special you did. Even more pics of the back would be great to see how you mounted it all.

I'm doing a de-bezel of the QNIX monitor atm. So maybe I can offer some insight

1. I used some spare compressed wood from a broken shelf and cut it to the appropriate size to hold the black box where the DVI-D cable is attached.
2. I dry fitted and positioned it to ensure that all the cables would connect with the black box on top and importantly the wooden panel was flush against the back of the panel.
3. Once that was done I used some scotbrite to scour the area where the wooden piece would be glued. After that I used some methylated spirit to clean the area to ensure it was free of contaminants.
4. I mounted the bottom of the wooden panel with some strong double sided tape and applied two part epoxy adhesive.
5. I flipped the wooden panel over and set it in place.
6. After it had dried for an hour I then further re-enforced it with some more tape.
7. I'm leaving it overnight to cure at room temp, but at the moment it's on very securely and I can lift the monitor by lifting the wood from it's sides.

That's where I'm up to at the moment.



Tape: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0024NKDFI/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
( I chose this as it's holds- up to 1kg per 10cm tape and was the strongest I could find)

Epoxy: http://www.amazon.co.uk/UniBond-Repair-Power-Epoxy-Purpose/dp/B000Y8OMW0/ref=sr_1_sc_3?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1372196284&sr=1-3-spell&keywords=unibond+repair+epox
(I was in a rush and this was what my local diy shop had. On the back of the card it reads Heat resistant up to 150 degrees C and strength 160kg/cm2.)

There are probably better ones out there but that was what was available to me at the time.

I will screw the black box onto the wooden panel using screws which should be enough to mount the VESA stand securely. Once finished I'll let you know how it went and whether the mounts hold up to a couple of hours intensive gaming or if anything went wrong.

I also ordered some parts so I can have backlight illumination during gaming and watching movies.

HTH

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post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-25-2013, 04:58 PM
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My goodness. That's like the best backlight illumination I've ever seen. Simply puts those backlit philips monitors to shame.
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post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-25-2013, 06:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kossair View Post

My goodness. That's like the best backlight illumination I've ever seen. Simply puts those backlit philips monitors to shame.

Wow, that is indeed pretty freaking awesome.
Quote:
Originally Posted by majnu View Post

I also ordered some parts so I can have backlight illumination during gaming and watching movies.

Total cost of the parts for doing that? Is this all that is needed? http://www.adafruit.com/products/461

edit...Ah, looks like an Arduino is needed as well, so the total cost is ~$80. A bit more than I want to spend on that.
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post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-25-2013, 11:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Remmib View Post

Wow, that is indeed pretty freaking awesome.
Total cost of the parts for doing that? Is this all that is needed? http://www.adafruit.com/products/461

edit...Ah, looks like an Arduino is needed as well, so the total cost is ~$80. A bit more than I want to spend on that.

Ebay is your friend.

Lights £15.99 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181152332025?var=480242304088&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
Arduino £11.99 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181154351018?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
Power Jacks £2.39 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/350733455812?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2648&clk_rvr_id=494538954976&afsrc=1
PSU - £11 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/140695757307?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649&clk_rvr_id=494544622954&afsrc=1

Total £42.36 $65

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post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-26-2013, 03:59 AM
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Seems to be holding alright and very stable. It's 21 degrees in my room and I just had an hour session on Pay Day and it's not fallen of lol




I just need to tidy the wires a bit as I'm doing to install those LED's at a later date so need to ensure there is enough mounting room around the sides.

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post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-26-2013, 04:06 AM
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Remmib, great guide but i have a question. do you drive a bmw?

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