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post #34581 of 34742 (permalink) Old 03-18-2019, 07:56 PM
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A rule of thumb I use for de-lidding. Never heat the IHS plate for more than 60 seconds. if the solder isn't melted within 60 seconds, you will kill the processor. With a Med to High flame with my Power Probe solder torch that's about the time it takes. usually 40-50 seconds. If the room is quiet enough, you'll actually "hear" the solder let go.
The nice thing about AMD IHS plates is that they are large and rather tall. I use a heat sink on the pins. Hold the PCB with a model vice and clamp a pair of vice grips onto the plate. I only use just enough force with the vice so that the cpu stays pins down onto the heatsink with the weight of the vice grips attatched hands free. Once the solder melts, I just pull straight up and the plate comes right off. With AMD chips a heat sink under the pins is a must. i won't tell how I learned that the hard way 'whistles"
But yea, that's pretty much my secret above. pretty much exactly how I remove soldered IHS plates. Super easy and super quick. If I didn't need to cut the glue, it would literally take me 1 minute per de-lid. but throw in cutting glue, removing solder and lapping the core a bit.... more like 1 hours or more. haha.


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post #34582 of 34742 (permalink) Old 03-18-2019, 11:48 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by ShrimpBrime View Post
A rule of thumb I use for de-lidding. Never heat the IHS plate for more than 60 seconds. if the solder isn't melted within 60 seconds, you will kill the processor. With a Med to High flame with my Power Probe solder torch that's about the time it takes. usually 40-50 seconds. If the room is quiet enough, you'll actually "hear" the solder let go.
The nice thing about AMD IHS plates is that they are large and rather tall. I use a heat sink on the pins. Hold the PCB with a model vice and clamp a pair of vice grips onto the plate. I only use just enough force with the vice so that the cpu stays pins down onto the heatsink with the weight of the vice grips attatched hands free. Once the solder melts, I just pull straight up and the plate comes right off. With AMD chips a heat sink under the pins is a must. i won't tell how I learned that the hard way 'whistles"
But yea, that's pretty much my secret above. pretty much exactly how I remove soldered IHS plates. Super easy and super quick. If I didn't need to cut the glue, it would literally take me 1 minute per de-lid. but throw in cutting glue, removing solder and lapping the core a bit.... more like 1 hours or more. haha.
Neat, was the gain worth it?

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post #34583 of 34742 (permalink) Old 03-19-2019, 09:21 PM
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post #34584 of 34742 (permalink) Old 03-21-2019, 11:22 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by suprc4 View Post
Delidded my i9 9900k last night with the der8auer tool(Which der8auer claims is 100% impossible to kill the cpu). Cleaned it up and put it in with the der8auer oc frame so I could do direct die. I was getting error code 23 on my aorus master pro and the computer would just boot cycle it wouldnt stay on. I'm thinking a short somewhere? I tried putting back on the original socket tensioner and ihs just to see if it was the mounting pressure that was not enough from the direct die but I get the same error code too. The error code is not listed in the gigabyte manual or anywhere online. I tried only one stick of ram in the 1st and 2nd ram slot but I haven't tried the 3rd or 4th yet because I ran out of time but I will try that later today. Has anyone else had this happen before? The cpu doesn't seem like its dead because otherwise the motherboard would show the error code for the cpu and it would just stay on and not boot cycle. Also I couldn't figure out how to get all of the black silicone off of the die? I used a plastic credit card to scrape most of it off, could that be an issue too?
I haven't seen you post back here for 2 months. What was the resolution of the issue? Was the CPU gone?
And removing the leftover solder is easily done with the quicksilver kit that rockitcool sells. But you have to leave it on awhile and also work it in and scrub it with a Q tip. I delidded my 9900K with the rockit 89 kit and got all of the quicksilver off, but it took awhile, and was slow. Then you can use their fitz(?) metal polisher to get it nice and shiny. If you wind up with some super hardened mark or something that simply won't come off, you can try 3000 grit sandpaper, but be very careful and wary of damaging the backside. If there are any scratches on the die, however, you may have to actually truly sand it with the way der8auer mentioned in his video.

What was harder than cleaning the solder was cleaning the Intel RTV or whatever they used black glue off the PCB. Now THAT was scary, even using a credit card that took an amazingly long time and required being careful not to damage the PCB or break something off the back.

If you didn't damage any motherboard pins, then the only thing I can think of is that you static shocked something or damaged a SMD or something on the backside. Since you were using the direct die frame and I've seen people have problems with POST failures and that frame, I would see if you can test it in another motherboard and re-lidded with LM.

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post #34585 of 34742 (permalink) Old 03-24-2019, 09:15 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by rhkcommander959 View Post

Neat, was the gain worth it?
Almost always.


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post #34586 of 34742 (permalink) Old 03-25-2019, 07:01 AM
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(I am sure I might have posted here 4-5 years ago, when I attempted to delid my 4770k. I had a knife slip scare and stopped my delid attempt, and thought I destroyed the CPU, but I was lucky that I didn't cause any damage and that the CPU worked flawlessly)

Anyway, today, after so many years I tried it again out of boredom. I must have seen 9000 videos of people delidding with razors, and even a vid with someone delidding with the plastic package from his CPU, and another guy using a small plastic card. The idea was that you only need a tiny 2mm cut in one edge, and then use the card and do the rest. Sounds totally trivial, right?

Anyway, to make a long story short: I really tried today with a small exacto knife just to cut a small 2mm slit in the side. NO DICE. I tried several times and took my time, doing exactly what I must have seen a million times in videos. The black silicone is just so rock hard I wasn't able to even get into it, whatsoever. So I aborted that attempt too. I figure there is no other way than using a tool, fortunately you can now get these mini vice delid tools from China for €5 where people had success with. If I am bored again I might just get one of those, but not sure whether I care with such an old CPU. I was sooo convinced I get it right today...grrrrr....

Last edited by flexy123; 03-25-2019 at 07:05 AM.
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post #34587 of 34742 (permalink) Old 03-27-2019, 07:05 PM
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5 years since I posted in this thread.

The 4790k, that I posted in this thread, is still running at the same clocks and volts (4.8GHz|1.28 volts), with the original application of CLU.



Last edited by tictoc; 03-27-2019 at 07:31 PM.
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post #34588 of 34742 (permalink) Old 03-27-2019, 07:18 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by flexy123 View Post
(I am sure I might have posted here 4-5 years ago, when I attempted to delid my 4770k. I had a knife slip scare and stopped my delid attempt, and thought I destroyed the CPU, but I was lucky that I didn't cause any damage and that the CPU worked flawlessly)

Anyway, today, after so many years I tried it again out of boredom. I must have seen 9000 videos of people delidding with razors, and even a vid with someone delidding with the plastic package from his CPU, and another guy using a small plastic card. The idea was that you only need a tiny 2mm cut in one edge, and then use the card and do the rest. Sounds totally trivial, right?

Anyway, to make a long story short: I really tried today with a small exacto knife just to cut a small 2mm slit in the side. NO DICE. I tried several times and took my time, doing exactly what I must have seen a million times in videos. The black silicone is just so rock hard I wasn't able to even get into it, whatsoever. So I aborted that attempt too. I figure there is no other way than using a tool, fortunately you can now get these mini vice delid tools from China for €5 where people had success with. If I am bored again I might just get one of those, but not sure whether I care with such an old CPU. I was sooo convinced I get it right today...grrrrr....
It's much easier to knock it off with a vise. I've pushed 3 off without issue.

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post #34589 of 34742 (permalink) Old 03-27-2019, 09:35 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by white owl View Post
It's much easier to knock it off with a vise. I've pushed 3 off without issue.
Or for peace of mind get one of those chinese knock off delid kits, or if you really want to then go the Rockit delid or Der8auer tools but the chinese knock offs work just as good for half the price.

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post #34590 of 34742 (permalink) Old 05-08-2019, 11:33 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by tictoc View Post
5 years since I posted in this thread.

The 4790k, that I posted in this thread, is still running at the same clocks and volts (4.8GHz|1.28 volts), with the original application of CLU.
I'm quite surprised that CLU stays good for so long yeah. My 7700k is on my original delid and CLU 2 years exactly now and still the exact same temps as when I first delidded and OCed to 5Ghz.

I'm thinking of cleaning my H115i rad a bit and going for a bit more of a "dangerous" overclock as I have some room left in the voltage before it really gets up there. Running 1.36v now but I know it will survive up to 1.45-1.46v for a while, even if it will probably degrade at that voltage, but yeah 7700k's are pretty cheap nowadays so.. let's see if I can make 5.2Ghz or something on all 8 threads.

It will pretty easily do even 5.3Ghz without HT enabled so I have high hopes 5.2Ghz will run on HT enabled . If my H115i can keep the temps low enough (<90c with AVX stressing) before saturating and getting too hot.

EDIT: Ok, holy mother of.. It needs a LOT of volts to even remotely run 5.2Ghz stable with HT enabled... So far it seems 1.488-1.496v will kind of do for Prime AVX and temps aren't even that bad yet (94c hottest core) but that is a bit too much voltage even for my suicidal liking. I mean, i ran a 2500K on 5.3Ghz 1.525v for over 2 years and that thing is still alive somehow so..

EDIT2: It hates multipliers over 50.. I'm using BCLK OC now for 50x102.5 for 5125Mhz core and 4715Mhz ring and 2733Mhz RAM and this works just fine on 1.448v load. Temps maxed at 86/88/80/76 in Prime 27.9 AVX Small. Probably going to run high 60's low 70's in games. Totally acceptable temperatures imo. It should live for at least another year or so at that voltage / temperature before degrading too much.

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