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post #34601 of 34736 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 12:44 PM
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Guys can I use liquid metal on the block of my Corsair H150i Pro? It is copper, but the radiator is aluminum, mey 8700k is delidded with LM between IHS and DIE but for the top of IHS I'm using Arctic MX-4 (tried Kryonaut but had worse results). So I'm thinking of using LM between the H150i Pro block and IHS, what do you think?

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post #34602 of 34736 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 01:06 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by ViTosS View Post
Guys can I use liquid metal on the block of my Corsair H150i Pro? It is copper, but the radiator is aluminum, mey 8700k is delidded with LM between IHS and DIE but for the top of IHS I'm using Arctic MX-4 (tried Kryonaut but had worse results). So I'm thinking of using LM between the H150i Pro block and IHS, what do you think?
Liquid metal will stain copper but not eat it away like aluminum, although people say it seeps into it so far I haven’t seen any evidence of cooling temps being affected.

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post #34603 of 34736 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 01:57 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by ViTosS View Post
Guys can I use liquid metal on the block of my Corsair H150i Pro? It is copper, but the radiator is aluminum, mey 8700k is delidded with LM between IHS and DIE but for the top of IHS I'm using Arctic MX-4 (tried Kryonaut but had worse results). So I'm thinking of using LM between the H150i Pro block and IHS, what do you think?

I used liquid metal between IHS and my NH-D14 and in the end I was pretty unhappy with how it turned out. I regret using it.

The base of the NH-D14 is nickel plated copper so should be a bit better than pure copper when using liquid metal. I left the cooler on the CPU for about five years before I had to remove it because the temperatures had turned bad. This was on a delidded i5-3570k. The liquid metal I used was CLU. The cooler was installed in 2013 and I left it on there until 2018 without touching anything. It took about four years before I noticed that the temperatures had gotten worse than they were originally. After five years, temperatures were about 10 °C higher than normal and then I removed the NH-D14.

The liquid metal had turned into a sort of tiny crystals. That dirt was stuck to the top of the IHS and to the base of the NH-D14. It was not possible to remove all of that dirt without force. I ended up using sandpaper on both the IHS and the NH-D14's base. After working on things, you could see that the liquid metal had moved through the nickel plating of the NH-D14's base and into the actual copper. Between the die and IHS, the situation was looking better. I could remove the residue on the inside of the IHS with a metal sponge, I didn't have to use sandpaper there. On the die, things came off with paper and cloth.

I have polished off all of the nickel plating on the base of the NH-D14. The edges of the base are now a red copper color, but it has a silver color in the middle where the liquid metal was touching it. When I tried putting a scratch into that silver area, I couldn't see a red copper color in the groove of the scratch. I guess this means the liquid metal has moved deep into the actual copper, it's not just a color change on top of the copper surface. The temperatures of the NH-D14 are still good.

I would recommend against liquid metal for the cooler because (1) it seems temperatures won't stay good indefinitely so in that sense it's not better than normal paste, and (2) it seems after a long enough time it will require sandpaper to clean which is pretty annoying and much worse than normal paste.
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post #34604 of 34736 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 02:15 PM
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liquid metal eats metal, period. copper or nickel. Nickel will actually slow it down some.

however, as noted - it takes a long time for that to matter, and usually it ends up just being the TIM thats the issue, not the pitting.

this will continue to be the case will all liquid metal until galium is no longer used as part of the ingredient set.

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post #34605 of 34736 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 07:49 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Pinnacle Fit View Post
I just delidded my 9900k yesterday. Direct die from rockit cool. It doesn’t go over 60 sustained at 1.35V




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What kind of cooling and overclock are we talking about?

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post #34606 of 34736 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 08:10 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by deepor View Post
I used liquid metal between IHS and my NH-D14 and in the end I was pretty unhappy with how it turned out. I regret using it.

The base of the NH-D14 is nickel plated copper so should be a bit better than pure copper when using liquid metal. I left the cooler on the CPU for about five years before I had to remove it because the temperatures had turned bad. This was on a delidded i5-3570k. The liquid metal I used was CLU. The cooler was installed in 2013 and I left it on there until 2018 without touching anything. It took about four years before I noticed that the temperatures had gotten worse than they were originally. After five years, temperatures were about 10 °C higher than normal and then I removed the NH-D14.

The liquid metal had turned into a sort of tiny crystals. That dirt was stuck to the top of the IHS and to the base of the NH-D14. It was not possible to remove all of that dirt without force. I ended up using sandpaper on both the IHS and the NH-D14's base. After working on things, you could see that the liquid metal had moved through the nickel plating of the NH-D14's base and into the actual copper. Between the die and IHS, the situation was looking better. I could remove the residue on the inside of the IHS with a metal sponge, I didn't have to use sandpaper there. On the die, things came off with paper and cloth.

I have polished off all of the nickel plating on the base of the NH-D14. The edges of the base are now a red copper color, but it has a silver color in the middle where the liquid metal was touching it. When I tried putting a scratch into that silver area, I couldn't see a red copper color in the groove of the scratch. I guess this means the liquid metal has moved deep into the actual copper, it's not just a color change on top of the copper surface. The temperatures of the NH-D14 are still good.

I would recommend against liquid metal for the cooler because (1) it seems temperatures won't stay good indefinitely so in that sense it's not better than normal paste, and (2) it seems after a long enough time it will require sandpaper to clean which is pretty annoying and much worse than normal paste.
The IHS is also nickel plated copper. Keep that in mind.
Some people suggest using a compressible seal (like a polyurethane foam dam) around the LM application (whether it's under the IHS or around the heatsink), because dams help stop oxygen from getting between the contacted surfaces. Oxygen causes GREATLY accelerated absorption of gallium via oxidation which makes it even worse. Try putting a THICK coat of liquid metal on a copper heatsink (think) and leave it exposed to air for 2 weeks. It will be hardened thick with no liquid left at all.

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post #34607 of 34736 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 08:15 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by mouacyk View Post
What kind of cooling and overclock are we talking about?


This kind of cooling. Click image for larger version

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And it’s about 5.2 semi-stable. It’s between 1.35 and 1.37 actually and around 75-80 now. I’m going to swap out the CLU for conductonaut since I’ve heard it works better. Maybe another polish of the die




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post #34608 of 34736 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 08:18 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by WannaBeOCer View Post
NT-H1 isn't conductive: https://noctua.at/en/nt-h1-3-5g



Also there isn't anything wrong with using conductive heat transfer. I use liquid metal which is conductive, I placed clear nail polish on the surface around the die of my 3770k and 6700k. Don't use abrasive paste like IC Diamond that would scratch up the die.


You and Ceadderman both misunderstood my point. I said you’re ‘not supposed to use nonconductive between the die and ihs’

As in you’re supposed to use a conductive one like CLU/clp/conductonaut.

You’re supposed to put conductive on the bare silicon and then non conductive on top of the ihs where it makes contact with the heatsink. This was supposed to be as close as we could get to the true soldered interface that exists on some HEDT chips


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Last edited by Pinnacle Fit; 05-22-2019 at 08:21 PM.
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post #34609 of 34736 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 08:54 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Pinnacle Fit View Post
You and Ceadderman both misunderstood my point. I said you’re ‘not supposed to use nonconductive between the die and ihs’

As in you’re supposed to use a conductive one like CLU/clp/conductonaut.

You’re supposed to put conductive on the bare silicon and then non conductive on top of the ihs where it makes contact with the heatsink. This was supposed to be as close as we could get to the true soldered interface that exists on some HEDT chips


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You're right I did misunderstand you but there isn't a rule. I used CLU on both my 3770k(2013 w/ vice method which I ran naked with an EK block) along with 6700k(2016 w/ tool). I'm not wasting my CLU on an Athlon 64 x2 3800+, it had dried up thermal paste that just needed to be replaced.

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post #34610 of 34736 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 08:56 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by WannaBeOCer View Post
You're right I did misunderstand you but there isn't a rule. I used CLU on both my 3770k(2013 w/ vice method which I ran naked with an EK block) along with 6700k(2016 w/ tool). I'm not wasting my CLU on an Athlon 64 x2 3800+, it had dried up thermal paste that just needed to be replaced.


Ok that’s one way to look at it. You got better performance than the garbage Dow Corning stuff that was there before but not nearly as good as if you used something conductive.


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