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[Official] Delidded Club / Guide

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post #34641 of 34658 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 08:44 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Shawnb99 View Post
I'll be redoing my delid next week and going direct die. It's intimidating enough doing the delid for the first time, going direct die seems much more extreme so I can understand why people would be hesitant to go that extra step.


Yea I get it, but on the new 9th gen, there aren’t any transistors on top, and there are direct die mounts that keep the die from separating from the socket, for a matter of $30 extra. It’s too easy to negate your delid efforts by relidding imo


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post #34642 of 34658 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 08:48 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Shawnb99 View Post
I'll be redoing my delid next week and going direct die. It's intimidating enough doing the delid for the first time, going direct die seems much more extreme so I can understand why people would be hesitant to go that extra step.
Hi,
Just have your heat gun and a couple of razor blades to get the SL delid apart
SL uses some tough freaking sealant

Don't get the chip too hot either.
I used my arm behind the chip to judge the timing of how long to hit the chip with the heat gun.
110c your arm hair will burn well before reaching that temp

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post #34643 of 34658 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 09:33 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by ThrashZone View Post
Hi,
Just have your heat gun and a couple of razor blades to get the SL delid apart
SL uses some tough freaking sealant

Don't get the chip too hot either.
I used my arm behind the chip to judge the timing of how long to hit the chip with the heat gun.
110c your arm hair will burn well before reaching that temp
I bought Rockit Cool clean and prep kit and their Quicksilver solder removal so I hope to have no issues but thanks I'll try that if I need to.

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post #34644 of 34658 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 09:47 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Shawnb99 View Post
I bought Rockit Cool clean and prep kit and their Quicksilver solder removal so I hope to have no issues but thanks I'll try that if I need to.
Hi,
You bought a binned silicon lottery 9900k didn't you or was this a retail purchased chip ?

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Case
corsair 450D with added 2nd floor to house radiator on top
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post #34645 of 34658 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 09:48 AM
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I did try direct die but then I would have to run without the plastic spacer bushings on the ML360 mount otherwise it won't reach the die.

I couldn't get the mounting pressure right easily and I have the feeling the CPU wasn't pushed into the socket deep enough as it would randomly fail to POST with CPU_LED or miss memory channels or PCI-E slots if it did boot..

Is there a retention kit for the 6xxx / 7xxx CPU's so the retention mechanism can still lock a direct die CPU into the socket properly?

I mean, I'm replacing it soon anyway, nothing wrong with a bit of direct die "suicide" OC of 5.2 GHz core @ 1.480v, 4.8Ghz cache and 3000Mhz RAM @ 12-15-15-35-400 @ 1.20v VCCIO / SA hehe. I know those settings are AVX stable but can only run it with like 5c ambients in the winter with all windows open or it will run low 90's load with a lid on it.

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post #34646 of 34658 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 10:04 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Shawnb99 View Post
I bought Rockit Cool clean and prep kit and their Quicksilver solder removal so I hope to have no issues but thanks I'll try that if I need to.


Yea...don’t use the razor blade method. The quicksilver is much better. It takes some time but it works.

When you polish, apply the flitz a lil at a time and wipe away as it turns black. It’ll take some elbow grease.


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post #34647 of 34658 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 10:08 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by ThrashZone View Post
Hi,
Why because you don't mind if LM drips out and onto something else below the chip kind of tough to seal a direct mount
I know the contact/ cooling reasons for direct mount.
Direct die mount is easily sealable with a cutout foam dam.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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post #34648 of 34658 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 11:02 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Falkentyne View Post
Direct die mount is easily sealable with a cutout foam dam.



https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I still don’t really see the point of having to seal...the stuff is unlikely to run as long as you color within the lines.


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post #34649 of 34658 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 11:51 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Pinnacle Fit View Post
I still don’t really see the point of having to seal...the stuff is unlikely to run as long as you color within the lines.


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It's called free insurance.
(or rather, $5.00 insurance).

When you have expensive, valuable hardware, why not take precautions to insure that -nothing- goes wrong, when there are no drawbacks to using it?
I actually have a foam dam around my IHS right now since I have conductonaut between IHS and NH-D15, but that's almost 100% required insurance! I also have Super 33+ tape around the socket going to the edge of the IHS, to prevent LM from getting around the edge of the socket also. (the Super 33+ tape is admittedly more important--LM drips off the edge of the IHS and you're in serious trouble).

Now you might scream "paranoid delusions" but have you ever seen those posts with people complaining about thermal paste between the pins? What exactly would you do if that were liquid metal between the pins? How would you get rid of it? I'd rather not take chances.

I have foam dams on everything.
Laptop BGA CPU, Laptop MXM 1070 both LM'd,
Vega 64 and around CPU IHS. That's how I roll.
I even tried to put a foam dam under the IHS for the re-lid, but the space is too small and applies far too much separation pressure on the IHS/package so I gave that up quickly

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post #34650 of 34658 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 11:54 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Falkentyne View Post
It's called free insurance.

(or rather, $5.00 insurance).



When you have expensive, valuable hardware, why not take precautions to insure that -nothing- goes wrong, when there are no drawbacks to using it?

I actually have a foam dam around my IHS right now since I have conductonaut between IHS and NH-D15, but that's almost 100% required insurance! I also have Super 33+ tape around the socket going to the edge of the IHS, to prevent LM from getting around the edge of the socket also. (the Super 33+ tape is admittedly more important--LM drips off the edge of the IHS and you're in serious trouble).



Now you might scream "paranoid delusions" but have you ever seen those posts with people complaining about thermal paste between the pins? What exactly would you do if that were liquid metal between the pins? How would you get rid of it? I'd rather not take chances.



I have foam dams on everything.

Laptop BGA CPU, Laptop MXM 1070 both LM'd,

Vega 64 and around CPU IHS. That's how I roll.

I even tried to put a foam dam under the IHS for the re-lid, but the space is too small and applies far too much separation pressure on the IHS/package so I gave that up quickly


Ok good point.

For the record, non conductive Tim in the socket pins hurts nothing. I had this happen.


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