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post #34721 of 34736 (permalink) Old 06-11-2020, 12:26 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Pinnacle Fit View Post
Wow... I had no idea it was that easy.


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Yeah the hardest part (besides the mess!) is measuring properly and dealing with the gallium. Indium is so soft it can be cut with a sharp knife or razor at room temperature. But Gallium is as hard as a rock at room temperature, which is weird because it starts becoming liquid at around 31C. So it's hard to get a good measurement unless you just smelt the entire sample at once and then cut enough indium and tin to balance it. 68% Ga, 21% In, 10% Sn and 1% Bismuth and Atimony should work. Throw them into a crucible then put them in an oven at 150C for awhile and stir it until it's melted and fully combined.

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Quote: Originally Posted by sakete View Post
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post #34722 of 34736 (permalink) Old 06-11-2020, 12:30 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Falkentyne View Post
Yeah the hardest part (besides the mess!) is measuring properly and dealing with the gallium. Indium is so soft it can be cut with a sharp knife or razor at room temperature. But Gallium is as hard as a rock at room temperature, which is weird because it starts becoming liquid at around 31C. So it's hard to get a good measurement unless you just smelt the entire sample at once and then cut enough indium and tin to balance it. 68% Ga, 21% In, 10% Sn and 1% Bismuth and Atimony should work. Throw them into a crucible then put them in an oven at 150C for awhile and stir it until it's melted and fully combined.

You can do all this in an apartment? You don’t need a fume hood?


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post #34723 of 34736 (permalink) Old 06-11-2020, 12:33 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Pinnacle Fit View Post
You can do all this in an apartment? You don’t need a fume hood?


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Gallium, indium and tin don't give off fumes. They are not toxic metals. But please don't eat them. That would be very bad for you.
They just stain everything, although you can wipe it up completely with isopropyl alcohol. But if it gets onto carpet or fabric, you're NEVER getting it out

You don't remember the science experiments some kids did where they put gallium in their hands and let it melt?

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Quote: Originally Posted by sakete View Post
Well, I want you to know I have an academic degree in speculation.
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post #34724 of 34736 (permalink) Old 06-11-2020, 06:01 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Falkentyne View Post
Gallium, indium and tin don't give off fumes. They are not toxic metals. But please don't eat them. That would be very bad for you.
They just stain everything, although you can wipe it up completely with isopropyl alcohol. But if it gets onto carpet or fabric, you're NEVER getting it out

You don't remember the science experiments some kids did where they put gallium in their hands and let it melt?

We never had cool experiments like that. And don’t worry. I grew up in the generation before the tide pod eating one.


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post #34725 of 34736 (permalink) Old 06-13-2020, 05:25 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Pinnacle Fit View Post
We never had cool experiments like that. And don’t worry. I grew up in the generation before the tide pod eating one.


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Yeah THAT generation is well, I don't think I can say the word I want to say here, but we can use our imagination.

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GPU’s I‘ve owned: GeForce2 MX400, 8800GTX, GTX 285, GTX 660 SLI, GT 1030, GTX 1070, GTX 1080, GTX 1080 ti, x1300, R9 380, R9 290X, Iris Pro 6200.
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post #34726 of 34736 (permalink) Old 06-16-2020, 01:16 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by TwilightRavens View Post
Yeah THAT generation is well, I don't think I can say the word I want to say here, but we can use our imagination.

Lol yea. I think so.


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post #34727 of 34736 (permalink) Old 06-25-2020, 04:07 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by TwilightRavens View Post
Anything even as far back as LGA 1155 and Ivy Bridge will work, Haswell too, any blocks designed for them will work as they all have the same mounting holes. Pure copper if you can get it but at least a high quality nikel plated one should work almost as well if you have conflicting metals on your loop with copper. Could also look into the delid die guard from our favorite German extreme overclocker.
You can use pretty much any block on the bare die, it's just the question of accurately measuring the thickness of the IHS and compensating with washers on the back side of the motherboard. I've been running bare die 3770K under a NH-D14 and a bare die 4790K under an EK-Supremacy block. Neither of them gave me any issues in over the year and a half I've been using them. Delid die guards absolutely help, and you can get them reasonably cheap from AliExpress, as I think derb8auer only sells the Skylake-X one.

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post #34728 of 34736 (permalink) Old 07-06-2020, 06:42 PM
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Hey Guys,

I had a misstep delidding a 10700k today for my office rig. The tool pushed down when pressing the IHS off. Never seen that happen before. (I did a 10900k a few weeks ago, and 9900k for a buddy over the weekend without issue.) Motherboard won't get here until tomorrow.


What do you think? Is it toast? I covered the gash with some super glue. I wish I knew how these PCB's were printed to determine if the traces are indeed on the surface or go down further.

From what I'm reading, if you're below the copper; you've gone too far. I think I am only through the soldermask and silkscreen layer.
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post #34729 of 34736 (permalink) Old 07-06-2020, 07:13 PM
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@zlatanselvic :
If you've cut any of the traces, it's RIP.
If you get liquid metal on those traces, it's RIP.

The slider in the delid tool should have 2 large rails on both sides, there should be no way it can dig down, I guess what happened was that the IHS while being pushed tipped down and dug into the PCB. This is why the better delid tools rotate the IHS instead or the expensive pusher delid tools are more precise and provide top support for the IHS so it can't angle.

Even if you only smashed some traces together, it's RIP.

As far as I know the PCBs are multi layer, there are tons of connections to make.


https://www.anandtech.com/show/9505/...ckage-analysis


@Falkentyne : Yes the liquid metal should be that simple. The thing is getting the materials and at a cost where it makes sense over buying the ready to use finished product.
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post #34730 of 34736 (permalink) Old 07-06-2020, 07:19 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by JackCY View Post
@zlatanselvic :
If you've cut any of the traces, it's RIP.
If you get liquid metal on those traces, it's RIP.

The slider in the delid tool should have 2 large rails on both sides, there should be no way it can dig down, I guess what happened was that the IHS while being pushed tipped down and dug into the PCB. This is why the better delid tools rotate the IHS instead or the expensive pusher delid tools are more precise and provide top support for the IHS so it can't angle.

Even if you only smashed some traces together, it's RIP.

As far as I know the PCBs are multi layer, there are tons of connections to make.


https://www.anandtech.com/show/9505/...ckage-analysis


@Falkentyne : Yes the liquid metal should be that simple. The thing is getting the materials and at a cost where it makes sense over buying the ready to use finished product.


Thanks man,

I immediately saw the gash and cleaned it out and glued over it. I then let it cure and applied the metal followed by another coat on top of the glue just in case. It didn't seem pressed or dented, only the green layer and masking being removed. I have a new board on it's way arriving tomorrow. We will see if it runs. I got this tool from Rockitcool, and it's been solid on each use. I don't really understand what or how it happened. I imagine user error of some sort. Hopefully it's not dead. Fingers crossed for tomorrow!
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