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post #9741 of 9951 (permalink) Old 03-19-2019, 07:08 AM
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Got my 7920X delidded last night, I'll put the lid back on tonight and see if it'll run. I got the block and shunt mod on the 2080Ti last night, too. Ran it just long enough without water to make shure I didn't bork the shunt mod. I bought the wrong dang resistors, instead of the solid end caps like the ones I used before, these had a tiny little metal tab on the bottom that just barely stuck out past the ends. PITA to solder these and I roached a couple in the process - good thing they are cheap and I bought 10. Now I have to tear down the loop on War Pig to get the TX out of it and put the 2080Ti in, and then build a loop for the 7920X rig with the TX in it.

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post #9742 of 9951 (permalink) Old 03-19-2019, 07:16 AM
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Hi,
Sounds like fun Charlie

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post #9743 of 9951 (permalink) Old 03-19-2019, 07:25 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Abaidor View Post
Not only that, he also has 2X GPUs and some Quick Disconnect (added restriction) on his loop....

I guess the following could be restricting your performance..

Fans? What fans are you using?
Radiators not getting enough fresh air...
What is your CPU block?

I might be wrong though.
Oh, I've been going over this for a LONG time I am using 3 ML120 fans on each radiator, an EK Supremacy, and a D5 pump-res combo. Thrash said to add a second pump, which I am probably going to do. There are quite a few 90 degree fittings in the loop which restrict flow quite a bit. Plus, the one EK XE360 is reported to be pretty restrictive as far as rads go. The other 2 are PE360s and they are fine as far as restriction goes. I just ran a test where I did a few CB runs with the pump at 100%. Temps just touched 70C. Then I ran a few more CB tests with the pump at 70% and temps rose 5-6C which leads me to believe that the pump NEEDS to run at 100% in order for the loop to cool the CPU down. I am guessing ( big word when talking about X299) if I add another pump, flow would increase by quite a bit. With the voltage I am using (1.223), 3 360mm radiators and direct die cooling should keep the chip in the low 60s under load not in the 70s. But who knows...I could be wrong just like I have been in the past.

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post #9744 of 9951 (permalink) Old 03-19-2019, 07:42 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Abaidor View Post
Not only that, he also has 2X GPUs and some Quick Disconnect (added restriction) on his loop....

I guess the following could be restricting your performance..

Fans? What fans are you using?
Radiators not getting enough fresh air...
What is your CPU block?

I might be wrong though.
the QDCs really do not add restriction to the loop. The QDC3s are quite high flow. But then Again, I have to turn the pump down so there is sufficient residence time in the rads for the crap to cool down. Too fast and the loop just runs hotter.
Anyway, it all comes off the HWBT and into a case soon... been looking for something like the corsair 1000D that does not cost $500!.

Quote: Originally Posted by GnarlyCharlie View Post
Got my 7920X delidded last night, I'll put the lid back on tonight and see if it'll run. I got the block and shunt mod on the 2080Ti last night, too. Ran it just long enough without water to make shure I didn't bork the shunt mod. I bought the wrong dang resistors, instead of the solid end caps like the ones I used before, these had a tiny little metal tab on the bottom that just barely stuck out past the ends. PITA to solder these and I roached a couple in the process - good thing they are cheap and I bought 10. Now I have to tear down the loop on War Pig to get the TX out of it and put the 2080Ti in, and then build a loop for the 7920X rig with the TX in it.
I am sooo tempted to send you my 2080Tis for a clean mod...

ASUS Z370/Z390 Motherboard Support Thread, Coffee Lake OC Guide
Rampage VI Apex / 7980XE / 2 Titan V / 32GB 4000C16/Corsair AX1500i/Intel 900P

For Sale
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post #9745 of 9951 (permalink) Old 03-19-2019, 08:04 AM
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You probably have plenty of rads/fans, more rads won't help with short term spikes just long term loop temp stability.

Right after I did my 7980XE build, I did a similar experiment. All my pumps and fans are controlled from bios, so I can't really adjust on the fly. I didn't think flow (as long as it was "flowing", not just stagnant) was that big of a deal. My pumps go to 100% if I disconnect the fan header, so I started running something (maybe Blender Classroom since it takes a while to run), opened Afterburner since it has a CPU temp graph option, and just unplugged the fan header. The CPU temps dropped like 10 degrees before I could even look back at the monitor, so I ran them up to about 45% on a flat fan curve (I hate stuff ramping up and down anytime the CPU load changes) and that seemed to be a good spot, not a lot of temp difference from there to 100% - not nearly as much as from where I had 'em which was probably 20% or something to 45%. Not as silent as before, but not near loud and the sound never changes regardless of what I throw at it.

So yeah, I might be able to drop my temps a bit more if I ran the pumps at 100%, but it's good enough where it is now. I will say that I really do like pumps that go to 100% with no signal, I also have pumps that barely run with no signal and filling a loop like that is just tedious. I keep a spare PSU on hand to do loops so I don't have to disconnect everything and use the system PSU for loop changes/filling. I ought to break down and try one of those nice fan controllers.

Quote: Originally Posted by Jpmboy View Post
I am sooo tempted to send you my 2080Tis for a clean mod...
You notice I didn't take any pictures of this go around? Yeah, there's a reason ;-)

It would have been fine if I had bought the right resistors, it was not a fun evening. The picture on the Mouser website showed what I thought I was getting, but there's a disclaimer that it's just representative. So yeah, it was a 8mOhm 2512, but just a different style. On the bright side, I know what's inside of them now. And that's what threw me, I melted the end of the "body" on one that was soldered fine - just no area on the solder strip to get the iron on there without touching it. So removing that one removed the body part and the actual resistor is just a metal strip in between the solder pads. I think it'd be easier to just ditch the body part and solder it that way and cover it back with liquid tape - or buy the right resistors in the first place.

If winning were easy, losers would do it.

It's got Async Compute, it's got what plants crave!
War Pig
(12 items)
Death Bomb
(9 items)
X-Rig
(15 items)
CPU
i9-7980XE
Motherboard
Rampage VI Extreme Omega
GPU
2080Ti FE
RAM
G.Skill F4-3600C16Q2-64GTZSW
Hard Drive
Samsung 970 Pro X4
Optical Drive
Pioneer BDR-209BDK
Power Supply
EVGA SuperNova 1300 G2
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Last edited by GnarlyCharlie; 03-19-2019 at 08:13 AM.
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post #9746 of 9951 (permalink) Old 03-19-2019, 08:56 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by GnarlyCharlie View Post
You probably have plenty of rads/fans, more rads won't help with short term spikes just long term loop temp stability.

Right after I did my 7980XE build, I did a similar experiment. All my pumps and fans are controlled from bios, so I can't really adjust on the fly. I didn't think flow (as long as it was "flowing", not just stagnant) was that big of a deal. My pumps go to 100% if I disconnect the fan header, so I started running something (maybe Blender Classroom since it takes a while to run), opened Afterburner since it has a CPU temp graph option, and just unplugged the fan header. The CPU temps dropped like 10 degrees before I could even look back at the monitor, so I ran them up to about 45% on a flat fan curve (I hate stuff ramping up and down anytime the CPU load changes) and that seemed to be a good spot, not a lot of temp difference from there to 100% - not nearly as much as from where I had 'em which was probably 20% or something to 45%. Not as silent as before, but not near loud and the sound never changes regardless of what I throw at it.

So yeah, I might be able to drop my temps a bit more if I ran the pumps at 100%, but it's good enough where it is now. I will say that I really do like pumps that go to 100% with no signal, I also have pumps that barely run with no signal and filling a loop like that is just tedious. I keep a spare PSU on hand to do loops so I don't have to disconnect everything and use the system PSU for loop changes/filling. I ought to break down and try one of those nice fan controllers.



You notice I didn't take any pictures of this go around? Yeah, there's a reason ;-)

It would have been fine if I had bought the right resistors, it was not a fun evening. The picture on the Mouser website showed what I thought I was getting, but there's a disclaimer that it's just representative. So yeah, it was a 8mOhm 2512, but just a different style. On the bright side, I know what's inside of them now. And that's what threw me, I melted the end of the "body" on one that was soldered fine - just no area on the solder strip to get the iron on there without touching it. So removing that one removed the body part and the actual resistor is just a metal strip in between the solder pads. I think it'd be easier to just ditch the body part and solder it that way and cover it back with liquid tape - or buy the right resistors in the first place.
Of course a PSU is fine.. absent that I use a little 12V 3A power brick-transformer - like from a charger or what ever. Put a 4-pin molex on the end and good to go. Runs D5s, DCCs, and 400s. one of those "easy button" things.

ASUS Z370/Z390 Motherboard Support Thread, Coffee Lake OC Guide
Rampage VI Apex / 7980XE / 2 Titan V / 32GB 4000C16/Corsair AX1500i/Intel 900P

For Sale
X299
(25 items)
x99
(18 items)
Z370 Z390
(23 items)
CPU
7980XE
CPU
7740X
CPU
7740X
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ASUS Rampage VI Apex
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Gigabyte Aorus G9
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2x Nvidia Titan V
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GTX 1080
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EVGA 850 G3
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Corsair HX1200i
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Koolance EXC-800
Case
Microcool Banchetto 101 (Alu)
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Win 10 Pro
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Win 7 Pro
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Ducky
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6950X
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ASUS Rampage V Extreme-10
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Titan Xp
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Titan Xp
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G Skill 8x8GB 3200c14 @3400c13
Hard Drive
Samsung 960 Pro
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2x360 Aq Copper Rads
Cooling
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Ek Full Cover MB waterblock
Case
CaseLabs Mercury S8
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post #9747 of 9951 (permalink) Old 03-19-2019, 09:03 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by RichKnecht View Post
That's what I am seeing now. I have ~80mv drop under load, drops from 1.96 to 1.88 and everything is just fine. Funny thing is the Strix board would blue screen with drops like that. I guess the Omega has a better, or more consistent power delivery system. I'm impressed that you can get 5GHz out of the chip with those temps. I can't even get to 4.8 without throwing over 1.3V at it and even then, performance gains are very minimal. So, for this chip, 4.7 will have to do. The good thing is, the Iceman frame is still working great and temps don't go above 70C under normal day to day use. I just ran Real Bench for an hour and max temp was 78C. Without the frame, my max temps were ~86C. BTW, what are you using to cool it?
re-sit your die-guard again. With 1.25V Vcore after 8 hours RB 2.43 (non AVX version), only 1 core pass 73.
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post #9748 of 9951 (permalink) Old 03-19-2019, 04:15 PM
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7920X delid a success. Still no OC and still on air, but I ran the CPU-Z "stress" test before de-lid and got a high of 58 degrees, knocked 15 degrees off that and all cores are nice and close together. I realize this isn't much of a benchmark, I just wanted something repeatable to go by and see if I had any cores off the map or something wack. Seems OK, so that means I have to do some work now. Tearing a working system down is not all that fun with hard tube, but that's how I roll.

If winning were easy, losers would do it.

It's got Async Compute, it's got what plants crave!
War Pig
(12 items)
Death Bomb
(9 items)
X-Rig
(15 items)
CPU
i9-7980XE
Motherboard
Rampage VI Extreme Omega
GPU
2080Ti FE
RAM
G.Skill F4-3600C16Q2-64GTZSW
Hard Drive
Samsung 970 Pro X4
Optical Drive
Pioneer BDR-209BDK
Power Supply
EVGA SuperNova 1300 G2
Cooling
HW Labs Black Ice GTX 420-480-2X240
Cooling
EK Supremacy Evo CPU Heatkiller IV GPU
Cooling
2X PPCs Bitspower D5
Case
Corsair 900D
Operating System
Windows 10 Pro 64 Bit
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Motherboard
Asus Strix Z270i
GPU
Nvidia Titan Xp
RAM
G. Skill F4-3600C15D-16GTZ
Hard Drive
2X Samsung 960 Pro 512GB M.2
Power Supply
SeaSonic X750
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EK Supremacy EVO CPU. Titan Xp Full Cover w/Backplate, X-TOP Revo D5 PWM Pump, Res X3 110mm Res, HW Labs GTS 280 and GTS 240, Primochill Tubing & Revolver fittings
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EVGA Titan X
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G.Skill F4-3000C15Q-32GRK
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Samsung SM951 M.2
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Samsung 850 Pro 512GB
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Pioneer BDR-2209
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EVGA 220-P2-1200-X1
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post #9749 of 9951 (permalink) Old 03-20-2019, 04:01 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by GnarlyCharlie View Post
7920X delid a success. Still no OC and still on air, but I ran the CPU-Z "stress" test before de-lid and got a high of 58 degrees, knocked 15 degrees off that and all cores are nice and close together. I realize this isn't much of a benchmark, I just wanted something repeatable to go by and see if I had any cores off the map or something wack. Seems OK, so that means I have to do some work now. Tearing a working system down is not all that fun with hard tube, but that's how I roll.
Good news. Having the cores close together as far as temps go under load is a big bonus.

Editing PC
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EVGA 1300W SuperNova Gold
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EKWB PE360x2, XE360, Supremacy EVO RGB, Xres140 D5 RGB
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post #9750 of 9951 (permalink) Old 03-20-2019, 06:27 AM
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I got my 7980XE system back together with the 2080Ti in it, and I verified the 2080Ti would operate in the 7920X system, same driver. But I can't get drivers to install. Keep getting "This driver is not compatible with this operating system" or something like that. W10 64 bit 1607 14393.2214. Uninstalled old driver, uninstalled Afterburner.

So I try to let it scan the system to find a driver that will work, needs Java. I only have Chrome and Edge, neither support Java.

Went through the whole GeForce Experience - it downloaded the same driver that I tried before that wouldn't work.

1607 is supposed to be recent enough to work with this driver generation. Did a sfc /scannow, no system issues. GPU-Z recognizes the TU-102 chip, but with no driver it calls it a basic display adapter or something. Tried disabling the basic display adapter in Device Manger, driver still won't install.

Beats me. I'll post this in the Nvidia section, maybe somebody will have an idea there.

If winning were easy, losers would do it.

It's got Async Compute, it's got what plants crave!
War Pig
(12 items)
Death Bomb
(9 items)
X-Rig
(15 items)
CPU
i9-7980XE
Motherboard
Rampage VI Extreme Omega
GPU
2080Ti FE
RAM
G.Skill F4-3600C16Q2-64GTZSW
Hard Drive
Samsung 970 Pro X4
Optical Drive
Pioneer BDR-209BDK
Power Supply
EVGA SuperNova 1300 G2
Cooling
HW Labs Black Ice GTX 420-480-2X240
Cooling
EK Supremacy Evo CPU Heatkiller IV GPU
Cooling
2X PPCs Bitspower D5
Case
Corsair 900D
Operating System
Windows 10 Pro 64 Bit
CPU
I7-7700K De-lidded @ 5GHz
Motherboard
Asus Strix Z270i
GPU
Nvidia Titan Xp
RAM
G. Skill F4-3600C15D-16GTZ
Hard Drive
2X Samsung 960 Pro 512GB M.2
Power Supply
SeaSonic X750
Cooling
EK Supremacy EVO CPU. Titan Xp Full Cover w/Backplate, X-TOP Revo D5 PWM Pump, Res X3 110mm Res, HW Labs GTS 280 and GTS 240, Primochill Tubing & Revolver fittings
Case
Fractal Nano S
Operating System
Windows 10 Pro 64 Bit
CPU
I7-5960X
Motherboard
Asus Rampage V Extreme 1502
GPU
EVGA Titan X
GPU
EVGA Titan X
RAM
G.Skill F4-3000C15Q-32GRK
Hard Drive
Samsung SM951 M.2
Hard Drive
Samsung 850 Pro 512GB
Optical Drive
Pioneer BDR-2209
Power Supply
EVGA 220-P2-1200-X1
Cooling
EKWB Blocks, Fans, and Pumps, Rads
Case
Corsair 550D
Operating System
Windows 10 Pro Retail
Monitor
BenQ BL3201PH
Keyboard
Max Keyboard Nighthawk X8
Mouse
Roccat Kone Pure Optical
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