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Is delidding a 9900k worth it?

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post #31 of 83 (permalink) Old 01-20-2020, 06:49 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by reachthesky View Post
Just pay silicon lottery to delid it. It forces them to take liability if something goes wrong. It's slightly more expensive than buying the delidding tool yourself and risking damaging your cpu. Just pay them to do it so you can hold them accountable if anything goes wrong since they offer a free replacement chip if they **** up.


Rockit cool also takes liability if you use their kit and it goes wrong. SL also remounts the IHS so you have to delid it again anyways if you want direct die. I first had SL delid mine and was still seeing temps in the high 90’s so I said **** it got Rockit’s kit and went direct die, now I never go past 64 degrees.

Waste of money to send it to SL

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post #32 of 83 (permalink) Old 01-20-2020, 07:43 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Turtle Rig View Post
There is always a chance of a crack on the CPU
You spin the screw on the delid tool with agression and say goodbye to your CPU and what not.
You could just heat the soldered cpu. Some people used to do this before the 3770K came out.
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post #33 of 83 (permalink) Old 01-20-2020, 08:12 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Shawnb99 View Post
Rockit cool also takes liability if you use their kit and it goes wrong. SL also remounts the IHS so you have to delid it again anyways if you want direct die. I first had SL delid mine and was still seeing temps in the high 90’s so I said **** it got Rockit’s kit and went direct die, now I never go past 64 degrees.

Waste of money to send it to SL
I was unaware that rockit cool offered that! That is huge! I can't argue with that . Kudos to rockit cool for being so consumer friendly A+.

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post #34 of 83 (permalink) Old 01-20-2020, 08:49 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by reachthesky View Post
I was unaware that rockit cool offered that! That is huge! I can't argue with that . Kudos to rockit cool for being so consumer friendly A+.
Yep. Check out the second review
https://rockitcool.myshopify.com/col...elid-relid-kit

Ignore the 1 star rating, person refused to send in the CPU but still blamed Rockit for the damage.
You have to send in the CPU for them to confirm but they will replace if damaged via their kit

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post #35 of 83 (permalink) Old 01-21-2020, 11:08 AM
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So what thermal compound are people going with nowadays for direct die?

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post #36 of 83 (permalink) Old 01-21-2020, 11:11 AM
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Hi,
Thermal grizzly liquid metal.

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post #37 of 83 (permalink) Old 01-21-2020, 11:16 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by ThrashZone View Post
Hi,
Thermal grizzly liquid metal.
That stained my heat spreader last go around. I know direct die + block finish are different than an IHS but I'm now hesitant to use it on anything other than die to underside of IHS's.
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post #38 of 83 (permalink) Old 01-21-2020, 09:20 PM
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Yes, worth it. But in my opinion only if you go direct die because only then the gained improvement is substantial enough to take the risk (and lose your warranty)

For a degree or 5... I wouldn't bother, but for the 13 degrees I gained with going direct die with a Noctua D15 it was worth it. CPU's are not typically things that suddenly cause problems (unlike videocards, harddrives, mainboards and memory modules). And I'm more of a 'set-it-and-forget-it' guy that doesn't look for extreme 24/7 overclocks. So I think the risk of my CPU suddenly breaking in the future is very low.

That being said: Going direct die can be just as safe as with a heatspreader, but you need to be VERY precise and careful in how you mount your cooler. Also you must use a support frame with precise thickness. In my case I designed and 3D printed frame similar to the one from RockitCool and Der8auer.

You can download it here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4118891

Going direct die is all about evenly distributing the pressure from your cooler. And the best way to do that is when a bit of pressure is applied to the CPU die for good contact and the rest of the pressure is distributed on the PCB that surrounds it. This means A) The underside of your cooler has to be perfectly flat and B) the 3D printed part that covers the PCB area around the CPU die must be the same height as that CPU die. It's all about creating an even surface between CPU die and the surrounding PCB.

In my case I made the 3D print in such a way that the core sits ever so slightly higher (like less then a tenth of a mm) compared to the thickness of the printed frame. This ensures the CPU core makes good contact with the cooler. When the cooler is pressed down firmly, the ever so slightly flex of the PCB the core sits on causes the cooler to distribute the rest of its pressure to the PCB.

I did have to sand down the underside of my Noctua D15 since it was not perfectly flat. Luckely that's very easy. Just get a glass mirror and put some fine grit sandpaper on it. Next, place the cooler on top of it and start working until its flat.

Last edited by Bram1982; 01-21-2020 at 09:56 PM.
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post #39 of 83 (permalink) Old 01-27-2020, 08:26 AM
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So fair warning, if you have a monoblock make sure it's compatible with direct die mounting beforehand. I made the grave mistake of not looking into this before taking on the project. Drained loop, removed motherboard from case, unmounted monoblock, delidded, put everything back together to find that my computer was shutting off immediately after turning it on.

I ended up removing everything again to find that the thermal paste on the die wasn't even touched by the monoblock.

I ended up having to clean the IHS solder and reuse it with liquid metal between it and the die. Once everything was up and running it turned out due to the heat or whatever I fried my i219-V ethernet controller. Had to replace the board, hence redo everything once again.

PS: Has anyone tried the copper IHS's? Are they a noticeable improvement over stock heat sink delidded + condoctonaut?

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post #40 of 83 (permalink) Old 01-27-2020, 08:28 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by wholeeo View Post
That stained my heat spreader last go around. I know direct die + block finish are different than an IHS but I'm now hesitant to use it on anything other than die to underside of IHS's.
Hi,
Wow that's messed up
No warranty now no info on it anymore.

CPU
i9-9940x With Optimus Foundation copper-plexi and Heatkiller VRM Plexi-Copper water block
Motherboard
ASUS x299 Rampage VI Apex
GPU
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RAM
Trident Z 3600C16 4x8gb's b-die default timings 16-16-16-36
Hard Drive
Samsung 970 Evo Plus 500gb M.2/ Samsung 850 Pro 256gb for os and 500gb evo for favorite games plus other wd hdd's for data and backup's
Optical Drive
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evga 1200-P2
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Case
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Other
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CPU
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X99 Sabertooth
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Hard Drive
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Case
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