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My CPU overclock is unstable and my system runs hotter after replacing my PSU

 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-25-2020, 12:10 PM - Thread Starter
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My CPU overclock is unstable and my system runs hotter after replacing my PSU

CPU: 10700K @ 4.9 core & 4.6 ring GHz, 1.27V fixed LLC4

MB: Gigabyte Aorus Pro AX

RAM: Patriot Viper Steel @ 4400/CL17, 1.33V SA, 1.28V VCCIO, 1.5V DRAM

PSU: Thermaltake GF1 750W

CPU Cooler: NH-D15S

SSD: 1TB 860 Evo

GPU: EVGA 1080ti SC2 @ 1.031V/1961MHz undervolt, memory @ 6106MHz

As the title says, I installed a new PSU after my last one crapped out and was causing black screens under loads. The new PSU fixed this problem, though now my previous OC of 5.0/4.7 @ 1.29V LLC6 is no longer stable when running RealBench (WHEA errors and bluescreens). I imagine that the fact that both my CPU and GPU both run about 5-10C hotter under load does not help this. I've had to lower my OC to what I noted above, though my temps are just actually just as hot if not even hotter as they were with my previous higher OC.

Is it possible that my new PSU would have introduced these issues with extra heat and instability? The only other possibility I can think of is if in the process of plugging in cables, I could have nudged my CPU cooler and potentially unseated the seal it has with the CPU. Though, this still does not explain my GPU's increased temps. Turning everything to defaults (GPU and RAM OC) still leads to my previous CPU OC to be unstable. Any thoughts?
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-25-2020, 04:55 PM
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A mediocre or defective PSU can definitely effect stability; many PSUs on the market are not able to supply the stable power needed for overclocking. But by all accounts the TT GF1 appears to be a solid PSU.

I've never heard of a PSU causing higher temps...if one installed it so that it's stealing air from components it could, or if it were overshooting the power needed for components I guess, but 5-10C added heat seems a bit much.

Either you got unlucky and it's defective, or you have other issues. Yes, certainly the added heat doesn't help; maybe it was just barely stable before and can't cope with the added heat (how hot is it getting exactly?). I mean, if your overclocks were failing and causing black screens before, you're sure it was stable to begin with? Maybe ambient temps are higher than they once were, or you reset the BIOS/UEFI to defaults and need to manually tune your voltages and fan speeds again? Perhaps the old PSU damaged/degraded components before it died, or fragged the OS from constant crashes? I would double check cabling, all voltage and fan speed settings, monitor ambient temps, try a fresh install of Windows just to rule out OS corruption, and consider ramping up fans or removing the side panel while stress testing. If you want to replace the PSU again, the Seasonic Focus or Prime series (or SS rebrands like the Fractal Ion +) are your best bet.

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Intel Xeon W3680 @ 3.9GHz
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Seasonic SS-850HT
Cooling
Scythe Ninja 4
Cooling
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4 x San Ace 140x38mm @ ~800RPM starting speed
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-25-2020, 06:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote: Originally Posted by Almost Heathen View Post
A mediocre or defective PSU can definitely effect stability; many PSUs on the market are not able to supply the stable power needed for overclocking. But by all accounts the TT GF1 appears to be a solid PSU.
Yeah I did a lot of research and ended up with this PSU which I saw had great reviews for being reliable/stable. I would like to think that nothing is wrong with the PSU, but you never know when you get a dud.

Quote: Originally Posted by Almost Heathen View Post
I've never heard of a PSU causing higher temps...if one installed it so that it's stealing air from components it could, or if it were overshooting the power needed for components I guess, but 5-10C added heat seems a bit much.
I never have either. I have been googling quite a bit and have not really come across others experiencing similar issues.

Quote: Originally Posted by Almost Heathen View Post
Either you got unlucky and it's defective, or you have other issues. Yes, certainly the added heat doesn't help; maybe it was just barely stable before and can't cope with the added heat (how hot is it getting exactly?). I mean, if your overclocks were failing and causing black screens before, you're sure it was stable to begin with?
I ran a stress test last night with a 4.9/4.6 CPU OC with RealBench and it topped out at 94C after 2 hours when only averaging at just below 1.2V according to HWiNFO VR VOUT. These temps seem quite high to me, especially given my cooling setup and the low voltage the CPU is running at. Interestingly enough, I ran the stress test bone stock across all components and it was pulling an average of 1.226V (more than my OC) and maxing out at 88C. I'm totally confused about that. I have a Corsair 200R case with 2 120mm fans which are mostly definitely positioned correctly as intake and exhaust. If I try to use my old OC settings, it will climb to 100C pretty quickly. I even lifted the thermal limitations to 105C and it eventually reached that limit as well. Before, my OC would max at about 94-95C on RealBench.

Quote: Originally Posted by Almost Heathen View Post
Maybe ambient temps are higher than they once were, or you reset the BIOS/UEFI to defaults and need to manually tune your voltages and fan speeds again? Perhaps the old PSU damaged/degraded components before it died, or fragged the OS from constant crashes? I would double check cabling, all voltage and fan speed settings, monitor ambient temps, try a fresh install of Windows just to rule out OS corruption, and consider ramping up fans or removing the side panel while stress testing.
Ambient temps are the same, BIOS settings are exactly where they were, and I actually did reinstall Windows right before switching to this new PSU this week. From what I can tell, all of the voltages HWiNFO is reporting are where they should be. When the old PSU died, I actually switched it out for an old 600W one and everything was running fine on that PSU as well. My next step may be just to plug in the old known working PSU to see if the problem persists. What a pain, haha. Thanks so much for your insight, it's greatly appreciated.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-25-2020, 06:38 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Haxasaurus View Post
I ran a stress test last night with a 4.9/4.6 CPU OC with RealBench and it topped out at 94C after 2 hours when only averaging at just below 1.2V according to HWiNFO VR VOUT. These temps seem quite high to me, especially given my cooling setup and the low voltage the CPU is running at. Interestingly enough, I ran the stress test bone stock across all components and it was pulling an average of 1.226V (more than my OC) and maxing out at 88C. I'm totally confused about that. I have a Corsair 200R case with 2 120mm fans which are mostly definitely positioned correctly as intake and exhaust. If I try to use my old OC settings, it will climb to 100C pretty quickly. I even lifted the thermal limitations to 105C and it eventually reached that limit as well. Before, my OC would max at about 94-95C on RealBench.
That seems very hot indeed. I have limited experience with newer CPUs, but your situation of stock clocks using higher vcore while running cooler is actually (historically) common. In short, your overclock is using much more wattage. My understanding is that the extra vcore is like a safe guard if it degrades or has a high operating temp, it will still function without crashing and it could certainly have to do with imperfect binning and VID setting by the manufacturer too. Stock clocks run cooler even though it's using more vcore for (at least) a couple reasons: higher clock speed increases temperature itself (as I understand), plus it will use more wattage.


Quote: Originally Posted by Haxasaurus View Post
Ambient temps are the same, BIOS settings are exactly where they were, and I actually did reinstall Windows right before switching to this new PSU this week. From what I can tell, all of the voltages HWiNFO is reporting are where they should be. When the old PSU died, I actually switched it out for an old 600W one and everything was running fine on that PSU as well. My next step may be just to plug in the old known working PSU to see if the problem persists. What a pain, haha. Thanks so much for your insight, it's greatly appreciated.
You didn't change the cooling configuration I'm assuming, and verified all the fans are spinning up appropriately...that's what I would do too, swap out the PSU to rule out the GF1 somehow causing the temps. You're very welcome, do let us know how it goes.

NAS / HTPC
(21 items)
CPU
Intel Xeon W3680 @ 3.9GHz
Motherboard
Dell 0x501h (BIOS A16, not EFI capable)
GPU
EVGA GTX 1060 Gaming 6GB 06G-P4-6161-KR @ stock
RAM
30GB @ 1066MHz CL7 (3x8GB 2Rx8 1600MHz ECC UDIMMs, 3x2GB 2Rx8 1333MHz non-ECC)
Hard Drive
ZFS mirror (media), ZFS JBOD (gaming etc.), ZFS OS
Power Supply
Seasonic SS-850HT
Cooling
Scythe Ninja 4
Cooling
Sunbeam Rheostat Extreme Fan Controller rev2
Cooling
4 x San Ace 140x38mm @ ~800RPM starting speed
Cooling
Prolimatech MK-26 GPU Cooler
Case
CaseLabs Bullet BH8 (white)
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Cloth
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-25-2020, 06:43 PM
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Id says its not running hotter because its unstable, Its unstable because its running hotter.
My CPU will do 5.1ghz if I keep temps under 80C. Which is easy in winter.
In summer I have to drop clocks to 4.9ghz because anything over 4.9ghz is unstable once the temp goes over 85c.


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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-27-2020, 05:16 PM - Thread Starter
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So I replaced my new PSU with the old one and tested temps...and they were the same. I'm at a loss here, now. My only guess is that ambient temps could be slightly higher now compared to a couple of weeks ago, but that doesn't explain the 5-10C difference. I'm just resigned to my 4.9 OC and just lowering my GPU to a 1V undervolt. I know I likely won't notice any difference in performance, but the whole situation is a little perplexing. Thanks for your help, everyone!
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-27-2020, 07:40 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Haxasaurus View Post
So I replaced my new PSU with the old one and tested temps...and they were the same. I'm at a loss here, now. My only guess is that ambient temps could be slightly higher now compared to a couple of weeks ago, but that doesn't explain the 5-10C difference. I'm just resigned to my 4.9 OC and just lowering my GPU to a 1V undervolt. I know I likely won't notice any difference in performance, but the whole situation is a little perplexing. Thanks for your help, everyone!
A better case, better cooling config, and maybe better fans would help, though I understand the potential need to just use the PC as it is without tinkering with it. Sounds like you're using 1x120mm intake, a (very) tall order for a ~5GHz 8 core and a 1080 Ti, plus the 200R front panel appears to be highly restrictive for airflow.

You may be better served by using the 2x120mm fans as intakes. For a 200R without a window, I'd try a front intake and one in the side/bottom for the GPU; not ideal, but may still be a substantial improvement. Or it may be possible to remove the front and wedge in 2x120mm, though it'll be ugly. Removing the PCIE covers can also make a big difference too.

NAS / HTPC
(21 items)
CPU
Intel Xeon W3680 @ 3.9GHz
Motherboard
Dell 0x501h (BIOS A16, not EFI capable)
GPU
EVGA GTX 1060 Gaming 6GB 06G-P4-6161-KR @ stock
RAM
30GB @ 1066MHz CL7 (3x8GB 2Rx8 1600MHz ECC UDIMMs, 3x2GB 2Rx8 1333MHz non-ECC)
Hard Drive
ZFS mirror (media), ZFS JBOD (gaming etc.), ZFS OS
Power Supply
Seasonic SS-850HT
Cooling
Scythe Ninja 4
Cooling
Sunbeam Rheostat Extreme Fan Controller rev2
Cooling
4 x San Ace 140x38mm @ ~800RPM starting speed
Cooling
Prolimatech MK-26 GPU Cooler
Case
CaseLabs Bullet BH8 (white)
Operating System
Antergos XFCE (Antergos repos removed)
Monitor
Panasonic Viera X3 TV
Keyboard
CM Storm Quickfire Pro (Cherry Reds)
Mouse
Logitech M310
Mouse
Itac mouse-trak Industrial Trackball
Mousepad
Cloth
Audio
Creative Sound BlasterX H5 Tournament Edition Headset
Audio
Creative Sound BlasterX G1 USB Sound Card
Audio
Boston Acoustics HD5 x2
Audio
Old Kenwood Stereo Receiver
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-30-2020, 10:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote: Originally Posted by Almost Heathen View Post
A better case, better cooling config, and maybe better fans would help, though I understand the potential need to just use the PC as it is without tinkering with it. Sounds like you're using 1x120mm intake, a (very) tall order for a ~5GHz 8 core and a 1080 Ti, plus the 200R front panel appears to be highly restrictive for airflow.

You may be better served by using the 2x120mm fans as intakes. For a 200R without a window, I'd try a front intake and one in the side/bottom for the GPU; not ideal, but may still be a substantial improvement. Or it may be possible to remove the front and wedge in 2x120mm, though it'll be ugly. Removing the PCIE covers can also make a big difference too.
I think you were absolutely right. I kind of went all out and got a Fractal Meshify C, 2x 140mm fans as intakes, 1x 120mm fan as a back exhaust, and the 2 stock 120mm fans as exhausts out of the top. My back 120mm fan hasn't arrived yet, but I'm already seeing 10C reductions in temps on my CPU. I'm guessing ambient temps were to blame, as the slightest increase in temperature just made the trapped hot air in the case even worse. I definitely have enough headroom to reclaim my 5Ghz OC at this point. Thanks for the help!
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