IHS Removals, How to do it, Should I do it, and the Facts! - Page 3 - Overclock.net - An Overclocking Community

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IHS Removals, How to do it, Should I do it, and the Facts!

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post #21 of 236 (permalink) Old 03-17-2008, 10:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Sorry for the delayed reply, got addicted to a game that recently relaunched.

I can't seem to find much info based on your ideas, while I would not do option 2 option is a hit or miss in my opinion. The PCB could melt or partially melt and screw the processor, those who like taking risks are free to try it but I myself would not do it, I think sticking to the torch method that several have done is a better way.
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post #22 of 236 (permalink) Old 04-01-2008, 07:32 PM
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I just tried this on my E2180, got all the black glue off, but my xacto knife blade wouldn't slide underneath the IHS at all Here's some pics, did I do it right? My CPU has a VID of 1.300 which is the lowest I've seen for this model, so I think its a gem if I can get the IHS off. Maybe it is indeed soldered on despite what your list says. I have a lighter, but I don't want to cook the die if I don't need to.
LL
LL
LL
LL
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post #23 of 236 (permalink) Old 04-08-2008, 08:25 PM
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I can confirm the E1200 is not soldered. Do you recommend any method to apply pressure to the cpu. Just using my Tuniq Tower 120 doesn't seem to work. I took off the top part of the loading plate but it's still not making enough pressure. Anyway, I put the ihs back on and apparently it still works. Any suggestions, other than a smaller heatsink?
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post #24 of 236 (permalink) Old 04-08-2008, 08:33 PM
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Wow, I'm actually considering doing this after finding out my e2160 isn't soldered.

Too bad mine FSB walls at 380 though.

Oh well the lower temps would be worth it even if I've reached my max headroom.

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post #25 of 236 (permalink) Old 04-09-2008, 11:15 AM - Thread Starter
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@ghost_recon88 Run around the CPU again with the razor, you most likely did not cut through all the adheasive, if you can not get any ammount of the razor between the IHS an PCB it definitely not sliced through completely.

@TunedFish Thanks updated the list. I am not sure if the TT120 is a screw down type, if it is simply screwing it down more will work. Other than that try and lay the computer on it's side so the weight of the heatsink sits on the die, this also works for many as long as it stays laying down.

@JamsD Lower temps are always welcomed But you may have some difficulty mounting the heatsink as the stock cooler is a push pin design and usually won't go down far enough to touch the die at all, let me know the results.


EDIT: Working on adding Xeon series to the list.
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post #26 of 236 (permalink) Old 04-29-2008, 12:48 PM
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Anybody else have results to share from doing this? I'm curious what the fatality rate is as well. I'm considering giving this a shot but would like some more feedback on what people gained from it.
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post #27 of 236 (permalink) Old 04-29-2008, 12:49 PM
 
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hey the socket 478 northy can be removed. i have a naked one and it came off really easy.
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post #28 of 236 (permalink) Old 04-29-2008, 12:57 PM
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I will be trying this with my sig CPU soonish.
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post #29 of 236 (permalink) Old 04-29-2008, 03:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spart View Post
I will be trying this with my sig CPU soonish.
Please fill us in on the result, I'm very curious.
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post #30 of 236 (permalink) Old 04-29-2008, 03:50 PM
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Ive done it on my previous 2 chips, the 3200 venice and 3700 san diego, and ill be doing it to my opty 165 soon..both worked fine..well even better and it was a 5 minute job, just make sure to be steady and use a very sharp blade..
On right is the venice, left is the sandy, bigger die as it has 1mb l2

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IVE GOT SOME SAN ACES FOR US UK GUYS, GIMME A PM IF YOUR INTERESTED
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