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post #2251 of 2861 (permalink) Old 01-09-2016, 02:05 PM
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It's a 6.7W TDP, so you don't need much to cool it. As long as it's making contact with the block - I assume it's for the motherboard? - you should be fine.

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post #2252 of 2861 (permalink) Old 01-11-2016, 01:13 PM
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Just to post my SFF "Moonglade":
  • Intel Core i5-4590S 3.0GHz Quad-Core Processor
  • Asus H97I-PLUS Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard
  • Kingston HyperX Fury Blue 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory
  • Noctua NH-L9i 57.5 CFM CPU Cooler
  • SFX PSU FSP300-60GHS
  • Asus GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB Video Card

In the quest for Performance/Size/Wattage I came up with this. My workflow was more or less like this. Lian LI PC-TU100, because it is cool, so... Must use SFX PSUs so clearance is 6cm so.. Must use Noctua NH-L9... I want to keep it cool without much trouble -> use 65W CPU. Power efficient GPU so the 750 Ti (first Maxwell) was a no brainer. I wont overclock it so any H87/H97 ITX will do, better with m.2

The provider sent me DDR-1866 CL9 instead of DDR-1600 CL8. The MB will default it at 1600 CL9, I will reuse it in other build. The Asus card normally WONT FIT. Use a shorter card, many others 750 Ti will fit.

My biggest troubles were with the PSU. I choose the Silverstone ST45SF-G. I needed 150W, so any 300W would be good enought but I wanted modular cables and gold rated. I used it and made custom sleeved cables to avoid cluttering and improve airflow. However the noise was unbearable. The PSU fan is very noisy, more than the case fan. It was so strong I got a second hand FSP300-60GHS. I had to open it to paint it black (heat resistant paint just in case). The cabling is awful now but it is not noisy anymore. I may customize the cables in the future. Also, going from a 450 Gold to a 300 Bronze saved me 5-7W for a total of 40W from mains at light usage.

Regarding storage I used a cheap 128 m.2 SDD and 2 tall 1T hybrid 2.5 SSD in RAID. Boot time under 10 seconds.

My biggest problem was the PSU. There are not that many options in SFX form factor. No modular PSU under 450W. Any 8cm fan may be noisy. Unacceptable for a living room. Apparently SFX-L fit in the case.

My wish: (pls, some company do this one)
I would like a modular 250-300 SFX, SFX-L Fanless/Fanless mode PSU. It has to be modular as SFF can be cramped. I would like to integrate it with a 65W CPU and a 100 - 125W GPU.

In the future, I may do a fan replacement on the ST45SF-G and consider going for a 180W+ GPU. However I don't think I will ever go over a 65W CPU for this kind of case.

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post #2253 of 2861 (permalink) Old 01-11-2016, 04:01 PM
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You could use a 192w picoPSU with that hardware and probably no problems at all. Might be worth a try.

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post #2254 of 2861 (permalink) Old 01-11-2016, 04:07 PM
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If the CPU can be undervolted, then a PicoPSU is almost certainly safe. If not, well, that's an 80W CPU, a 60W GPU, and about 20-30W of other components. There aren't any 192W PicoPSUs (unless something has changed recently) but this 160W PSU should work. It peaks at 200W - not sure how long that peak can last for though - and requires an external 12V converter. In other words, a power brick. Mini-Box also sells those but you might get something cheaper via Ebay. Just be sure the tip works with the PicoPSU! thumb.gif

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post #2255 of 2861 (permalink) Old 01-12-2016, 04:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hampurista View Post

You could use a 192w picoPSU with that hardware and probably no problems at all. Might be worth a try.
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Originally Posted by CynicalUnicorn View Post

If the CPU can be undervolted, then a PicoPSU is almost certainly safe. If not, well, that's an 80W CPU, a 60W GPU, and about 20-30W of other components. There aren't any 192W PicoPSUs (unless something has changed recently) but this 160W PSU should work. It peaks at 200W - not sure how long that peak can last for though - and requires an external 12V converter. In other words, a power brick. Mini-Box also sells those but you might get something cheaper via Ebay. Just be sure the tip works with the PicoPSU! thumb.gif

I am using picoPSU in an AM1 build, but the problem is very simple... There would be a big SFX size open hole in the back of my case. My ideal PSU for the ITX system would be fanless, SFX and only 6cm long 6x6x10. As you said, 150-200W would be enough.



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post #2256 of 2861 (permalink) Old 01-12-2016, 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Neclock View Post


I am using picoPSU in an AM1 build, but the problem is very simple... There would be a big SFX size open hole in the back of my case. My ideal PSU for the ITX system would be fanless, SFX and only 6cm long 6x6x10. As you said, 150-200W would be enough.



Image modified from Silverstone, PDF


There's blanking and DC-DC mounting panels already made for that;

http://www.ecosmartpc.com/accessories.html
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post #2257 of 2861 (permalink) Old 01-12-2016, 08:24 AM
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$30 for that?! eek.gif It's a sheet of metal with holes in it! Just get a dead Diablothek and salvage the case.

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post #2258 of 2861 (permalink) Old 01-14-2016, 03:19 PM
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The 12V on picoPSU's are usually unregulated, meaning that what ever power brick you have, that's how much power you can deliver on the 12V rails, minus what ever you use up with the picoPSU.

I.e. 300W 12V brick, 120W picoPSU gives you a minimum of 180W on the 12V

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post #2259 of 2861 (permalink) Old 01-15-2016, 10:34 AM
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post #2260 of 2861 (permalink) Old 01-15-2016, 11:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Laine View Post

The 12V on picoPSU's are usually unregulated, meaning that what ever power brick you have, that's how much power you can deliver on the 12V rails, minus what ever you use up with the picoPSU.

I.e. 300W 12V brick, 120W picoPSU gives you a minimum of 180W on the 12V

Interesting. I bet that's only for the yellow, 12V-input-only models. The wide-input red ones (12-32V input) use buck converters to step down a higher input to 12V. They're optimized for 19V, and I recommend you avoid 12V. Finally there's the car models, boosting voltages as little as 6V and bucking voltages as high as 34V. Basically, you plug them into a lead-acid battery and have fun.

It also sounds a bit dangerous unless you've covered the thing in heatsinks. Even then, you could risk letting out the magic smoke.

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