Welcome to the Swiftech H220/H320/H220X/H140X/H240X and Cooler Master Glacer 240L Owners' Club!⚠ ATTENTION ⚠
If you own an H220X, H140X, or X240X, Swiftech wants to hear your thoughts! Please take the survey in the link below:http://www.swiftech.com/survey.aspxAlso be sure to post here for a chance to win a brand new H220X!
The H220 CPU cooler is an All-In-One (AIO) liquid cooling system focused on low to inaudible operating noise and thermal performance that truly rivals that of custom kits. The product is compatible with most cases supporting dual 120mm or larger radiators. It comes factory pre-filled, completely plug-and-play for installation, and is maintenance-free during its 3 year warranty period.
The H220 is the result of 3 years of research and development, and it was designed to bridge the gap between entry level All-In-One and custom-built DIY liquid cooling systems. It differentiates itself from other AIO's by its ability to support additional liquid cooled components such as graphics cards, chipset, and/or additional radiator(s) just like a custom-built system.
Both the pump and the fans are PWM compliant devices, allowing the H220 to be recognized and speed-controlled by the motherboard depending on CPU temperature like any standard CPU cooler. As a bonus, the system includes a PWM splitter allowing connection of up to 8 PWM devices which can then be controlled as one by the motherboard.
Glacer 240L Semi-DIY CPU watercooler, designed in the United States by Swiftech and Cooler Master. Factory filled and sealed to be an All-in-One closed loop cooler or expand the system with standard DIY components. It's your system. Cool it your way.
High performance expandable system can be upgraded to cool other components.
Tuned for top performance with a 3500 rpm pump system.
Performance 240mm radiator is designed for handling high wattage overclocked CPUs.
Copper waterblock with copper/brass radiator for excellent heat dissipation.
Factory filled with coolant, then sealed and pressure tested - requires zero maintenance for years.
CPU Platform Compatibility
Intel®Socket LGA 775, 1155, 1156, 1366 and 2011 (will also fit upcoming 1150)
AMD®Socket AM2 (+), AM3 (+), FM1, FM2, 939
Installing LGA 2011 mounting hardware:
Installing AMD mounting Hardware:
Expanding upon the H220 adding a VGA into the loop (Also applicable for the H220X):
EXPANSION NOTE ABOUT THE H220X
The bleed screw had to be made out of a fairly soft material to prevent damage to the acrylic window. This screw should be unscrewed a little to allow for air to bleed out when the kit is being refilled after expansion. Due to the material though users need to be very careful and treat the screw delicately when unscrewing it and screwing it back in. Let me know if there will be any issue to adding this in the OP for the H220-X.
Originally Posted by [email protected]
THIS BLEED SCREW IS TOO FRAGILE FOR THE NEOPHYTE USER (side note: we have already assembled several hundreds at our factory, and I am not getting reports of any breaking screws in assembly...) - WE MADE IT OUT OF POM FOR THE INITIAL LAUNCH BECAUSE THIS AIR BLEEDING FEATURE WAS ADDED LATE AT MY REQUEST - INCIDENTALLY, WE HAVE ALSO OBSERVED THAT SOME KITS (2 OR 3 SO FAR, OUT OF THE FIRST 200) MAY HAVE HAD SOME ACRYLIC SHAVINGS FLOATING IN THE COOLANT THAT WE DIDN'T CATCH AT QC - AGAIN THIS IS FOR THE SAME REASON: ADDING THIS PARTICULAR BLEEDING FEATURE LATE IN THE GAME . THE SHAVING COME FROM TAPING THE BLEED-SCREW HOLE. IF YOU DO SEE ONE, THEN JUST CONTACT US, AND WE'LL EITHER REPLACE YOUR KIT, OR WE WILL SEND YOU COOLANT SO YOU CAN EMPTY IT AND REFILL IT AT YOUR CHOICE - THIS WILL NOT HAPPEN ON THE NEXT PRODUCTION BATCH SINCE WE HAVE ALERTED OUR PRODUCTION CREW.
BACK TO THIS LITTLE PURGE SCREW: WE ARE ALREADY WORKING TO REPLACE IT WITH AN INJECTION MOLDED NYLON - IT WILL TAKE A MONTH BEFORE WE GET IT DONE - MEANWHILE PLEASE GO EASY WITH THIS LITTLE GUY - TIGHTEN FINGER TIGHT, AND THEN FINISH WITH A
G E N T L E LOCK USING A SMALL FLAT SCREW DRIVER - WE WILL ALSO ADD A WARNING LABEL ON THIS SCREW EFFECTIVE IMMEDIATELY. final note: of course if you break one just let us know, and we'll send you replacement immediately.
NOTICE: It is HIGHLY recommended that you use the included PWM splitter to power your pump, by plugging the pump into channel one and hooking up both the molex/SATA plug and the PWM fan header, EVEN IF the only device you plan to modulate via PWM is the pump itself. More than just an accessory, the splitter is a fail-safe, guaranteeing that the pump always receives the necessary 12v, regardless of fan header settings, as anything less can and will, in an unknown amount of time, damage the pump. Furthermore, it is recommended that you do the same for any other PWM devices you plan to run as well, so that they too receive the necessary 12v constant straight from the PSU. If you cannot modulate the speed of the devices plugged in, in this fashion, then it's either a fan header, motherboard, or BIOS setting issue, or in rare case, the splitter itself.
Known Motherboard incompatibility issues
-Asus Crosshair V Formula-Z AMD 990FX Motherboard - Interference with VR Heatsinks
I've been told this can be remedied by sliding the block under the heatsink.
-ASRock Z77E-ITX LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 Mini ITX Intel Motherboard - Interference with RAM & VGA slots
-ASUS Z9PE-D8 WS Dual LGA 2011 Intel C602 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 SSI EEB Intel Motherboard - Interference with Ram slots closest to CPU sockets - Can only use outer RAM slots.
BACKPLATE INSTALLATION HELP
Here's what I found to be the easiest method: BEFORE you remove the plastic cover on the copper and put the TIM on, install the cooler so that the stickies on the backplate seat to the motherboard, then remove the H220 and plastic and install as normal. Alternatively, if you have a backplate that fits your mobo from a previous cooler, test it to see if the H220 screws into it, which 95% of the time it will. If it does, you can use it if you prefer (E.G. Corsair Hxx backplates).
IMPORTANT SERVICE ANOUNCEMENT
"Here at Swiftech what we’ve been able to determine is that most of the noise that comes from the pump is due to an air bubble getting trapped in it. Here are the steps to remove this air bubble.
First, remove your radiator from your case and gently shake it. You’ll need to hold it above the pump in order to do this properly. You’ll also want your pump running while you’re doing this.
Next, gently tilt your case from side to side and from back to front to help dislodge any remaining air bubbles. You may need to do this for a few minutes to get your pump to quiet down.
If the previous step was still not successful you may need to gently squeeze the tubing above the fittings on either side of your pump. Do this very gently so that you don’t end up putting unnecessary pressure on your barb fitting elbows. This should finally dislodge any remaining air bubbles trapped in your pump.
These procedures can take several minutes to almost half an hour or more before your pump will push out the stubborn air bubble and quiet down. Once this has occurred you can then just open the fill port cap on your radiator and top off your radiator with a little distilled water."
link to spreadsheet for easier viewing:
Add the club in your sig! So we can spread the word and get others involved.
[CENTER]♠[URL=https://www.overclock.net/t/1367654/swiftech-h220-owners-club][B][I]SWIFTECH H220 OWNERS' CLUB[/I][/B][/URL]♠[/CENTER]