[Build log] FT02 sli titans - Overclock.net - An Overclocking Community

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[Build log] FT02 sli titans

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post #1 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-29-2013, 10:36 AM - Thread Starter
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For my second ever PC build, I've decided to jump into water cooling, case modding, and heatshrinkless power supply sleeving. Is it too much, I don't think so.

The parts
Case: Silverstone FT02
PSU: Seasonic x-1250
CPU: 3930k (have had it for a few months with no motherboard)
CPU TIM: Indigo Extreme
Motherboard: Rampage iv Black Edition (waiting on release, ROG forums say mid November)
Storage: 120GB Sandisk Extreme SSD and 1+2TB Seagate HDD Eventual SSD upgrade planned
GPU: 2 way sli gtx Titans with room left for a 3rd, God permitting
GPU TIM: Phobya HeGrease
Memory: 8x4GB patriot viper3 venom red at 2133 MHz 11-11-11-27
Soundcard: Asus Xonar Xense
Blocks: XSPC Razor and Raystorm with red LEDs
Coolant: Mayhems Pastel Blood red as shown on Mayhems' Youtube channel

Mods:
I've already begun the mods, I disassembled the aluminum uni-body from the steel from and drilled out all of the rivets, pulled the drive cage out, cut off 2 of the bays, rotated it 90 degrees and I'm going to drill new holes to line up with the rivets that I've drilled out and bolt it back in. I got this idea from Level8Hacker, so it's not an original mod. There's another stage, though. The AP 181s that silverstone includes with the case are hooked up to a fan controller that's covered by the I/O cover on the top of the case. They aren't plugged in through a 3 pin power or anything, there's a second cable that runs up to some crappy switches. I pulled the fans out, cut the switches off, stripped the cables and shorted all of the wires that lead to the switch, the result is a fan that only runs at 100%, which is dead silent to my ears. However, they are going to be hooked up to a lamptron FC-9 fan controller. Also, I'm gluing magnets to the dust covers so they stick to the steel bottom of the case under the rad.

The loop:
For the waterblocks, I've decided to go all XSPC. I personally think they look a lot better than anyone else's blocks, I've watched so much Singularity Computers that my head could explode, however I hate the look of EK blocks. I'm sorry if you like them, I have my tastes you have yours. Then I've looked at some review threads and the perform pretty close to the top in all areas and for quite a bit less money, and usually outperform EK as well. For my Res, I've decided to get the Monsoon Series Two D5 premium Dual Bay Res with red accents, it was one of the best looking rads and I watched Ronsanut's review of it on Youtube and I was fairly impressed, he loved the thing and touted it as silent, I'm going to test that.

For the pump, I grabbed the Koolence pmp-450 rebrand of the D5, it had the 3 pin fan header for $20 less than Swiftech's and should also be able to be controlled through the FC-9. I've gone with all Swiftech fittings because they had all of the extensions and rotaries in black and the gold logo is much smaller than bitspower's. If bitpower made an all black fitting with at least a smaller gold accent, I would've used that and had a lot less trouble digging through other company's stock. The GPU's will be in serial using bitspower crystal link and the skinny multi link fittings in matte black.

For the rad, I'm going with Magicool's triple 180 over Alphacool's. I'm not sure how wide the motherboard will be and I don't want to deal with not having quite enough room. If feel fairly confident that a triple 180 can sufficiently cool everything in the loop with those ap181s. If it doesn't I can alwys add another 120mm to the top, but I really want to avoid that if possible.

The sleeving:
I learned a lot from Lutr0s's heatshrinkless sleeving vid on Youtube, but here is where I want to ask for advice. I've chosen mostly black components for a reason, because I want the red to draw attention to things. The CPU block, the GPU blocks, and the FC-9 are the only red LEDs in the build and I do not want to add more, I see so many builds that are red and black that are just flooded with light, but I think looking into the case and seeing only that raystorm and those razors and the swath of light from Asus Supreme FX will look a million times better. Too much red in a red and black build is very, very bad.

There's this style


And imagine this with red where it's white and black where purple.


Thanks for suggestions and views, pictures to come soon.
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post #2 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-29-2013, 10:44 AM
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I like the first one. I tried my hand at custom sleeving a few times and I never got it as uniform as I would have liked. Eventually I shelled out for an evga PSU that was already sleeved in red and black but like you mention, it is half and half so the red doesnt have quite the same effect.

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post #3 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-29-2013, 10:50 AM - Thread Starter
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I'd just get cable extensions or something, but as I was looking at Level8Hacker's machine, I noticed that there's no hiding the original cables, like there would be if it was a tj11. Besides, I've go time to kill before the BE is released. Plus, I don't think it's as hard to get uniformity when you remove the heatshrink. Plus, I think it looks 100x better if the sleeving goes all the way to the plug. Thanks for the input.
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post #4 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-29-2013, 12:56 PM
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I couldnt agree more about the no-heatshrink. That was the source of my undoing. First time my heatshrink was 2:1 and I needed 3:1 shrinking. I hadnt seen the heatshrinkless method back when I was doing it. But I still managed to sell my services to a few people. I think extensions are the way to go if there is space to hide the originals. The last PC I built to sell that is what I did. NZXT extensions.

But nothing beats the feeling of having done it yourself. The more frustrating it was the more gratifying it is when it is done and you get complements haha.

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post #5 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-29-2013, 01:15 PM - Thread Starter
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I'd make my own extensions if I could hide the PSU, however, because of the orientation and the cut out being right next to the VRM, some of the cables will be visible no matter if the side panel was on or off, so there's no way to just sleeve the rest, it'll look bad and I can't just sit there, my OCD will kick in and I'll have to pull it apart again.

About the heatshinkless, yeah, the method's pretty new, MDPC started doing it and Lutro0 brought it here and on Youtube. I haven't been building computers for very long, so I've lucked out and most of these things have been done before me, all I have to do is research and then work my ass off. Lutro0's moto, the patience, the tools, the knowledge. The tools and the knowledge are all here, I've got to have some patience, it's all on me now.
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post #6 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-29-2013, 01:23 PM
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Great to see FT02 build smile.gif Could You tell me if it is possible to put 240mm rad in 5.25 bays?
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post #7 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-29-2013, 01:27 PM
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Also think about where you want to terminate your sleeving moving away from the connectors. This was always the source of the largest headache for me (other than heatshrink woe's haha). You can run it all they way into the PSU or you can terminate the individual cable sleeving somewhere in between the connector and PSU where you know it will be out of site. If you go with the first method take apart your PSU before you order your stuff and get an attack plan together. If you go with method 2 figure out what you want to do between where you end the sleeving and the PSU. You can leave the rest unsleeved, use a large piece of sleeving going to the PSU, or use a large piece of heat shrink going back to the PSU.

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post #8 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-29-2013, 01:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Great to see FT02 build smile.gif Could You tell me if it is possible to put 240mm rad in 5.25 bays?

It seems like Silverstone's not getting the love they used to.

The easy answer is "no" I can't fit 2 120mm fans in the drive bay cutouts.

If you mod the case and remove the HDD bays and flip the rad so the fittings face down, it's just big enough, but then you won't have anywhere to mount your drives too, if you go all SSD, maybe you can mount those to the back of the drive cages, but you're looking at about the same amount of work I did for less rad than I've got. If you know you're not going to use the 5.25 bays, you can just drill the HDD cage out and mount a triple 180 and put your drives in the 5.25 and do less work for more rad.

edit: BTW, nice avatar
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post #9 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-29-2013, 01:41 PM - Thread Starter
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SkitzoPhr3nia:
I'm not worried about it, I'm just doing heatshrinkless into both sides, since all of the cables are modular, the 24 pin mobo power will be a ***** to do because Seasonic decided to run a bunch of single pins in the psu to the same 24 pin, so there's multiple wires headed into the same mobo pin. I'm just going to heatshrink that behind the mobo tray and put 2 cable into the same sleeve. I know it's not going to be absolutely perfect,but I got what is probably the best PSU in it's class, the sleeving is sort of secondary.
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post #10 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-29-2013, 01:42 PM
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Yay another FT02 build, and it's watercooled? Subbed for sure, I love my FT02 and would love to see how yours turns out.

CPU
i7 3960X @4.7GHz 1.4V
Motherboard
Asus Rampage IV Extreme X79
GPU
EVGA GTX 780 Reference 1202/3420MHz
RAM
Corsair Vengeance 16GB 1600Mhz CL9 (4x4GB)
Hard Drive
Samsung 840 EVO 120Gb SSD
Hard Drive
Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB
Hard Drive
Random laptop HDDs (2x160GB)
Power Supply
EVGA 1000 G2
Cooling
Noctua NH-U14S
Case
Silverstone FT02B-W USB 3.0
Operating System
Windows 10 Pro 64bit
Monitor
BenQ XL2420T 120Hz @ 10% lightboost
Monitor
Dell IN2020M 1600x900
Monitor
LG 25UM6-S 2560x1080
Keyboard
IBM 6580 DisplayWriter, IBM Model F107, Model F XT, Pingmaster
Mouse
Steelseries Rival
Mouse
Steelseries QcK
Audio
Sennheiser HD598 CS
Audio
Audio Technica AT2020
Audio
Fiio E10K
▲ hide details ▲
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