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post #12971 of 13002 (permalink) Old 08-24-2019, 09:02 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Moose-Tech View Post
I think I remembered reading this in a forum somewhere (but can't remember where now).

If the Splitty9 needs more amps than you want to pull from the AQ6, You can always mod a standard fan extension cable by removing the 12v power wires.
Then get a molex or sata power splitter that has fan headers. Carefully remove the pins from the fan headers from their sockets and then re-insert them (in the proper order) to the fan extension cables.

This will alow you to power the Spltty9 from your 12v rails but use the RPM signal from the PWM header on the AQ6. Just like you do with your water pump.
BTW - This will also allow your AQ6 to run a little cooler without all that fan wattage being run through it.

Got some Splitty9's for my next build and was going to mod this cable up myself.

That is what I did I made custom cables where I used two PCI ports off of the power supply, each powering two Splitty9s. The red and black cables are the power and ground respectively. I put both the RPM and PWM wires into one grey sleeve and ran those over to the Aquaeros.



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post #12972 of 13002 (permalink) Old 08-24-2019, 08:26 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Jubijub View Post
[snip]
In your case, what is the link between the two ? USB or Aquabus ?
[snip]

In this build I used NO aquabus, all communications are USB. Primarily because I believe you loose the fan & RGBpx controllers on the quadro with the aquabus connected.

Quote: Originally Posted by VeritronX View Post
There's an aquasuite service running in the background passing info through the pc.

This is the kicker... I believe this is a Windows service that aquasuite uses, if Linux emulates it, then you may be OK, if not, ???.

It may be worth your effort to shoot an email to support at aquacomputer.de

Last edited by InfoSeeker; 08-24-2019 at 08:34 PM.
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post #12973 of 13002 (permalink) Old 08-25-2019, 08:30 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Moose-Tech View Post
I think I remembered reading this in a forum somewhere (but can't remember where now).

If the Splitty9 needs more amps than you want to pull from the AQ6, You can always mod a standard fan extension cable by removing the 12v power wires.
Then get a molex or sata power splitter that has fan headers. Carefully remove the pins from the fan headers from their sockets and then re-insert them (in the proper order) to the fan extension cables.

This will alow you to power the Spltty9 from your 12v rails but use the RPM signal from the PWM header on the AQ6. Just like you do with your water pump.
BTW - This will also allow your AQ6 to run a little cooler without all that fan wattage being run through it.

Got some Splitty9's for my next build and was going to mod this cable up myself.
that's not a bad idea...

I think I'll stick to molex going forward. These BP SATA + PWM/tach hub is always pegged @ 100% no matter what i do.

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post #12974 of 13002 (permalink) Old 08-26-2019, 11:03 PM
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I use HWiNFO64 v6.10-3880

Set to run at startup and display sensors in minimized mode. Always running.

It's nice because it starts up and syncs up with Aquasuite very quickly.

Build: msi C8r (Carbon8r)
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post #12975 of 13002 (permalink) Old 09-09-2019, 07:06 AM
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Good day! Can I rotate the black ring in the Calitemp digital temperature sensor to position the connector?
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post #12976 of 13002 (permalink) Old 09-09-2019, 08:19 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by GAN77 View Post
Good day! Can I rotate the black ring in the Calitemp digital temperature sensor to position the connector?
Yep you can rotate it as much as you like. As long as it sits flat when done you should be able to move it as needed. Be careful with the cables though, they are very very thin and break easily. I'd suggest not connecting the cables till you have everything set up.

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post #12977 of 13002 (permalink) Old 09-09-2019, 09:19 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Shawnb99 View Post
Yep you can rotate it as much as you like. As long as it sits flat when done you should be able to move it as needed. Be careful with the cables though, they are very very thin and break easily. I'd suggest not connecting the cables till you have everything set up.
+1

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post #12978 of 13002 (permalink) Old 09-09-2019, 09:46 AM
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Guys, thanks for the answers!

When I turned it, I did not like the sound. I thought I tore off the thermal sensor soldered to the fitting)
But the sensor is working)

Who has two such sensors in the system, what is the difference in temperature between them the first time they were connected without a callibro?

Last edited by GAN77; 09-09-2019 at 09:54 AM.
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post #12979 of 13002 (permalink) Old 09-09-2019, 10:12 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by GAN77 View Post
Guys, thanks for the answers!

When I turned it, I did not like the sound. I thought I tore off the thermal sensor soldered to the fitting)
But the sensor is working)

Who has two such sensors in the system, what is the difference in temperature between them the first time they were connected without a callibro?
I have 4 Calitemp and 7 AQ Inline sensors in my loop. Temp difference between them is at most a degree if not less.

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post #12980 of 13002 (permalink) Old 09-09-2019, 11:32 AM
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I use 2 calitemp sensors, one in the IN and the other on the OUT of my top radiator. Both less than a degree difference as well.

Don't worry about the noise because I almost had a heartache thinking I just destroyed two pricey temp probes. I spoke to AC and they told me it's fine. I thought I cracked a capacitor of some sort as there was liquid leaking from them with a crushing sound. It's normal they told me and turn it to your liking and plug the wiring after you're set as stated prior.

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