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post #13981 of 14069 (permalink) Old 06-02-2020, 06:43 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by looniam View Post
then why buy a PWM pump?

and funny i don't experience any ping pong effect. certainly not after taking a few days to tighten the fan curve:
Attachment 351320
aside from the 1GPM "standard," i suspect setting pumps speed(s) more of a personal preference. i see no need to run anything at 100% while idling for hours.
I agree, having it running at 100% while you browse overclock.net doesnt seem necessary. I sit 1 meter from the machine, so at 100% I can hear it, at 40% i cant.


I also have never experienced any such ping pong affect. But like you said, personal preference really, no right or wrong way
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post #13982 of 14069 (permalink) Old 06-02-2020, 11:12 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by helis4life View Post
I agree, having it running at 100% while you browse overclock.net doesnt seem necessary. I sit 1 meter from the machine, so at 100% I can hear it, at 40% i cant.


I also have never experienced any such ping pong affect. But like you said, personal preference really, no right or wrong way
I also use a curve controller for the pump. I chose a silent speed for the minimum, and the pump only speeds up after the fans are at a high enough level that they mask the increase in pump noise.

I use water-air delta as the controlling temp. Some people use absolute temps, but I prefer consistent noise level for a given load. I could run at lower fan and pump settings in winter, but I'm not limited by temps for stability anyway.

If you're experiencing ping pong with your pump, then either your controller is restricted to too small of a temperature range and/or you need more thermal mass (more water -> larger reservoir if necessary) to slow down the drift.

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post #13983 of 14069 (permalink) Old 06-03-2020, 12:40 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by ManniX-ITA View Post
Sorry I had a look at the picture and had the impression they were both purple
Took out the adapter and indeed one is black,
It doesn't really matter which one you put where, the relay will either close or open wire 1/2 with wire 3.
Just like shortening the power on pins with a screwdriver head.

For correctness put the black one on pin 3 and purple on pin 1.
What about this green wire? Are you absolutely certain? What you've said doesn't seem to align with the threads you linked earlier.
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post #13984 of 14069 (permalink) Old 06-03-2020, 01:06 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by gftgy View Post
What about this green wire? Are you absolutely certain? What you've said doesn't seem to align with the threads you linked earlier.
Of course it doesn't sorry I didn't check properly
Doing too much stuff in parallel...
Obviously it's the green wire as described in the threads.
You have to split the green wire.
Don't connect the purple and black, it's the Standby voltage.
Had to find out months ago how to connect it but then I didn't and meanwhile my memory faded away...

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post #13985 of 14069 (permalink) Old 06-03-2020, 01:37 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by looniam View Post
then why buy a PWM pump?
Because it offers a quick and inexpensive way to eliminate vibrations at certain speeds, and you can fine-tune it for absolute silence.
And because most pumps nowadays are PWM

Quote: Originally Posted by looniam View Post
aside from the 1GPM "standard," i suspect setting pumps speed(s) more of a personal preference. i see no need to run anything at 100% while idling for hours.
There is no need to run at 100%, as well as there's no need to reduce pump speed to less than that. Certainly not to "increase pump lifespan".
I was referring to people recommending lower pump speeds to "avoid damaging the pump", I have no quarrel with people setting their pump speeds for other reasons. To each their own.

Quote: Originally Posted by valvehead View Post
I also use a curve controller for the pump. I chose a silent speed for the minimum, and the pump only speeds up after the fans are at a high enough level that they mask the increase in pump noise.
I wonder why would the pump make noise in the first place. I assume it's about how it's installed in the system.

Quote: Originally Posted by valvehead View Post
I use water-air delta as the controlling temp. Some people use absolute temps, but I prefer consistent noise level for a given load. I could run at lower fan and pump settings in winter, but I'm not limited by temps for stability anyway.
I eliminated noise by oversizing the radiator. Fans at 400 RPM at all times, pumps at 100% (both of them), liquid temperature almost never exceeds 40 degrees Celsius except while very heavy gaming in SLI during very hot summer days, and then fans ramp up to 500-550 RPM to maintain 40 degrees Celsius liquid temperature. Right now ambient temperature is 23.7 degrees Celsius and liquid temperature is 26.8.

Quote: Originally Posted by valvehead View Post
If you're experiencing ping pong with your pump, then either your controller is restricted to too small of a temperature range and/or you need more thermal mass (more water -> larger reservoir if necessary) to slow down the drift.
Larger reservoir? It has nothing to do with cooling, except maybe introducing some 30-second delay in liquid temperature stabilization (by the way, that delay works both ways). That is, of course, unless you have a 50L reservoir

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post #13986 of 14069 (permalink) Old 06-04-2020, 01:49 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by war4peace View Post
Because it offers a quick and inexpensive way to eliminate vibrations at certain speeds, and you can fine-tune it for absolute silence.
And because most pumps nowadays are PWM


There is no need to run at 100%, as well as there's no need to reduce pump speed to less than that. Certainly not to "increase pump lifespan".
I was referring to people recommending lower pump speeds to "avoid damaging the pump", I have no quarrel with people setting their pump speeds for other reasons. To each their own.
believe what you want but it does increase the life span and more than your underestimated 5%. that is not anything i know from reading posts in FB groups or forums like here. that is what i know from first hand experience as a machinist mate in the navy; operated/maintained/repaired close to every pump imaginable on a ship.

but you are more than welcome to disagree because really - its nothing that will harm anyone/anything anyway - any warranty is suppose to consider 100% speeds so . .

i hope we are cool with disagreeing because now i got a favor to ask:

just got a pair of the noctua 3K leaf blowers and maxing out at 2250rpm. do those require the diane mod to get 3K? i was going for the 2K but these were the same price and can live with it but . .

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post #13987 of 14069 (permalink) Old 06-04-2020, 03:32 PM
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post #13988 of 14069 (permalink) Old 06-05-2020, 04:52 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by looniam View Post
believe what you want but it does increase the life span and more than your underestimated 5%. that is not anything i know from reading posts in FB groups or forums like here. that is what i know from first hand experience as a machinist mate in the navy; operated/maintained/repaired close to every pump imaginable on a ship.

but you are more than welcome to disagree because really - its nothing that will harm anyone/anything anyway - any warranty is suppose to consider 100% speeds so . .

i hope we are cool with disagreeing because now i got a favor to ask:

just got a pair of the noctua 3K leaf blowers and maxing out at 2250rpm. do those require the diane mod to get 3K? i was going for the 2K but these were the same price and can live with it but . .
I've heard the same argument before... someone brought (as argument) a reference to an article discussing pump wear for industrial pumps (something like 30K gallons per minute) and how that affects the impeller, etc. The article was correct. The argument wasn't, because you can't put an equal sign between an elephant and a Chihuahua, because they are both mammals and have four legs. Watercooling pumps operate differently from high volume pumps on a ship, with different wear and tear, etc.

About the fans, have you tried running them without PWM pin? Aka just connected to 12V? If they reach 3K RPM (12V, ground, RPM pin), then it's the PWM implementation stopping them from reaching 3K RPM. If they don't reach that speed, there's something off with the fans themselves.
I run 2K RPM Noctuas on my NAS in the attic, directly connected to PSU throgh a molex, with RPM pin connected to the motherboard for control and they reach 2K RPM.

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post #13989 of 14069 (permalink) Old 06-05-2020, 06:24 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by looniam View Post
believe what you want but it does increase the life span and more than your underestimated 5%. that is not anything i know from reading posts in FB groups or forums like here. that is what i know from first hand experience as a machinist mate in the navy; operated/maintained/repaired close to every pump imaginable on a ship.

but you are more than welcome to disagree because really - its nothing that will harm anyone/anything anyway - any warranty is suppose to consider 100% speeds so . .

i hope we are cool with disagreeing because now i got a favor to ask:

just got a pair of the noctua 3K leaf blowers and maxing out at 2250rpm. do those require the diane mod to get 3K? i was going for the 2K but these were the same price and can live with it but . .
I picked up 9 of those and all of them cap out at around 2800rpm on their own, but they don't have the surplus torque to maintain those speeds when faced with restrictions like filters and radiators, and a drop to 2250rpm max seems plausible with enough restriction. Have you tested them on their own?

Considering that they run on 12v, their tremendous range (~300-~2800rpm in my batch), and spectacular build quality, I'm pretty happy with them; but I'm curious about this "Diane mod" you mention.
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post #13990 of 14069 (permalink) Old 06-05-2020, 09:50 AM
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