How to correctly leak test your loop......101? - Page 45 - Overclock.net - An Overclocking Community

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How to correctly leak test your loop......101?

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post #441 of 445 (permalink) Old 09-07-2019, 05:13 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Cobra26 View Post
Hello,

It would be good to post your water cooling parts and what exactly you are water cooling ie cpu, gpu etc...

Anyway to comment on your question 0.2psi = approx 0.01 bar every hour over a period of 12 hours.
How did you test the Dr. drop unit it self?
Are you using hard tubing or soft tubing?
Does your room change temps depending on the period (night is cooler day time is warmer this can result in pressure changes but these are slight). Also if you use soft tubing this also may result in pressure difference.

In any case i would test cpu + gpu only and let it sit for 1 hour or 2 if you use soft tubing it may lose pressure of about 0.01bar which if memory recalls is normal and should stay fixed after the very slight pressure drop even after 2 hours. If there is a higher drop in pressure then there is a small leak.

I would test the radiator individually make SURE it can handle approx 0.55 bar! And let it sit for 1 or 2 hours there should be NO pressure drop since your not using tubing (if its soft tubing)
Test the pump-res combo also individually.

If all above shown no leaks outside of the error margin then LOOK at your fittings if you use ROTARY fittings wiggle gently them a bit to see if that is the cause of your leaks.

Or place soapy water solution on all suspect water cooling parts pump the unit to 0.55bar then slowly release the air with valve on your Dr. drop unit and watch for leaks....
If you just pump to 0.5 bar and let it sit there it can be very hard to spot leaks that way even when you applied soapy water. So best is to apply soapy water and release pressure slowly (or in one go fast) and watch for leaks keep repeating this on all fittings, blocks, pump-res, radiator. It goes 2 ways release pressure and spot for leaks OR when your dr. drop has reached almost 0 bar then PUMP again and WATCH for leaks (bubbles) WHILE pumping.
To make it easier for you attach the Dr.drop on a 30cm to 40cm soft tubing (just for testing to look for leaks)


PS pressure test for 1 hour to 2 hours is all you need.

Hope this helps

I know it's been over a month, but thanks for the reply. The part about releasing air to catch leaks using the soap solution wasn't something I'd thought of before. I have a single hard-tubing loop consisting of a CPU and GPU block with 2x 360mm radiators. I've tested the Dr. Drop by itself and it's leak-free, and I had verified the leak using another pressure tester I built myself.

I ended up disassembling my loop and looked at all the compression fittings. Turns out there was a sliced up o-ring in one of the fittings, which explains the slow leak. I ended up replacing it and putting my loop back together and there's absolutely no pressure drop after over two hours of testing.

Last edited by annul; 09-07-2019 at 05:17 PM.
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post #442 of 445 (permalink) Old 09-07-2019, 06:13 PM
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I don't have a ton of advice, besides to re-leak test if you're breaking down months & months later. I've had O-rings that fail during the re-tightening, thus no longer holding the pressure of both pumps in full blast.

I've also received used parts with destroyed threads(acetal is fragile) but that's a different story -.-

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post #443 of 445 (permalink) Old 09-07-2019, 06:51 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by skupples View Post
I don't have a ton of advice, besides to re-leak test if you're breaking down months & months later. I've had O-rings that fail during the re-tightening, thus no longer holding the pressure of both pumps in full blast.

I've also received used parts with destroyed threads(acetal is fragile) but that's a different story -.-

I think the most likely explanation for the o-ring failure is that I used the Primochill RFB for de-burring the ends of my acrylic tubing. Unfortunately, some of the resulting tubes had a little "lip" on them where the RFB made contact. I didn't think this lip would be significant enough (it was <0.5mm) but it seems like it might have taken a chunk out of the o-ring. I ended up wet-sanding all my tube ends after disassembling the loop and I hope this never happens again.


Running some Blitz Part 2 through my system and preparing to do the final fill!
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post #444 of 445 (permalink) Old 09-07-2019, 06:56 PM
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that makes perfect sense, glad you got it all sorted.

for me it was just general age of the o-ring, as I'm clinging onto my BP Rotary compression fittings until the compression joints fail (I judge this based on how the resistance in the joint gives overtime.)

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post #445 of 445 (permalink) Old 09-08-2019, 04:38 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by annul View Post
I know it's been over a month, but thanks for the reply. The part about releasing air to catch leaks using the soap solution wasn't something I'd thought of before. I have a single hard-tubing loop consisting of a CPU and GPU block with 2x 360mm radiators. I've tested the Dr. Drop by itself and it's leak-free, and I had verified the leak using another pressure tester I built myself.

I ended up disassembling my loop and looked at all the compression fittings. Turns out there was a sliced up o-ring in one of the fittings, which explains the slow leak. I ended up replacing it and putting my loop back together and there's absolutely no pressure drop after over two hours of testing.
Happy that it worked out for you! So the Dr.drop did it's work glad you didn't use the traditional way of leak testing specially if it was a small leak.

Yeah one way to spot leaks with soapy water more easily is by pumping from 0 to 0.5bar and watch all fittings and blocks for bubbles best to let a person pump while you look for bubbles.

Or pump all the way to 0.5bar and either slowly release air or in one go to spot leaks with soapy water.

Enjoy your new build.
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