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Yes.. another thread about someone’s in-progres loop

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post #1 of 234 (permalink) Old 12-03-2018, 06:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Yes.. another thread about someone’s in-progres loop

In the middle of my build of the century.. building in the O11-Dynamic, using an EK XE360 in the top and a Nemesis LS360 on the side (mounted in back compartment with fans in front). The loop goes like this:

Res/Pump >> XE360 >> LS360 >> VRM >> EK Velocity >> EK Vector (vertical mount) >> Res

The VRM is the EK Crosschill on the Max11Formula motherboard. I’m not sure if this is the best order in terms of aesthetics. Originally I was going to bend, but now I’m liking the idea of using fittings only. So if you look at the picture of the ports on the two rads, you’ll see where I’m thinking of running a line from the XE to the LS, I think I would need 3 90-deg turns to get it right though. Then exiting the LS I would go to the top of the VRM, then from bottom VRM to CPU, CPU our to vertical mounted gpu.

I’m starting to think this Res is going to be too big. (see attached photos)

Im using Barrow 12mm fittings and Bitspower 12mm acrylic tubing. Does anyone happen to know if the extra O-rings are for meant to be used during installation or if they are simply backups? I’ve never used hardline fittings before so I’m not sure. With the 90-deg dual link adapter it has 2 of them so I’m thinking 1 for each tube since it’s a dual link adapter. Maybe you’re supposed to put the oring on the acrylic tube, between the compression ring and the fitting. That would make sense.

The teal/cyan markings on the diagram are showing where there 90-deg rotary or 90-def dual link adapters.

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post #2 of 234 (permalink) Old 12-03-2018, 08:07 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by michaelrw View Post
In the middle of my build of the century.. building in the O11-Dynamic, using an EK XE360 in the top and a Nemesis LS360 on the side (mounted in back compartment with fans in front). The loop goes like this:

Res/Pump >> XE360 >> LS360 >> VRM >> EK Velocity >> EK Vector (vertical mount) >> Res

The VRM is the EK Crosschill on the Max11Formula motherboard. I’m not sure if this is the best order in terms of aesthetics. Originally I was going to bend, but now I’m liking the idea of using fittings only. So if you look at the picture of the ports on the two rads, you’ll see where I’m thinking of running a line from the XE to the LS, I think I would need 3 90-deg turns to get it right though.
I'm using the same top and side rads as you (in the same case) and you can make a pretty clean connection the way you're describing with fittings only. The only problem with this is it gets tricky connecting it all together and you will likely need either an adjustable length dplug or a rotary extension fitting to tighten everything up. Not impossible, but it may not work exactly as you want. Also, having all these fittings exposed at the front of the case can look pretty bulky. After I messed with this section for a while I found it cleaner to come out from the front port of the side rad with an extension (to clear the fans), one 90 degree rotary and extension to push the run to the front of the case and to get alignment with the top rad inside port, one 90 degree rotary pointed down, bend a small length of tube with a single 90 degree bend, then a final 90 degree rotary fitting back to the top rad inside port. Sounds like a lot, but from the front of the case you really only see a simple 90 degree bend and two 90 degree fittings.

Quote: Originally Posted by michaelrw View Post
Then exiting the LS I would go to the top of the VRM, then from bottom VRM to CPU, CPU our to vertical mounted gpu.

I’m starting to think this Res is going to be too big. (see attached photos)
If you're using a pump/res combo you might think about entering the pump from the bottom. It would potentially clean up the run from the GPU and then you don't really have to worry about the height of the res, as long as you can still open a port on top for fill and bleed.

Quote: Originally Posted by michaelrw View Post
I'm using Barrow 12mm fittings and Bitspower 12mm acrylic tubing. Does anyone happen to know if the extra O-rings are for meant to be used during installation or if they are simply backups? I’ve never used hardline fittings before so I’m not sure. With the 90-deg dual link adapter it has 2 of them so I’m thinking 1 for each tube since it’s a dual link adapter. Maybe you’re supposed to put the oring on the acrylic tube, between the compression ring and the fitting. That would make sense.
I haven't used Barrow fittings, but with the Bitspower hardline fittings I've used you need 1 o-ring that the tube pushes into (built into the base of the fitting) and 1 o-ring that slides over the end of the tube and goes between the fitting base and the outer collar. Pretty sure you're on the right track. You may want to check fitting and tube tightness with the o-rings included with your fittings, as there may be slight size variations in the tubing as well as the o-ring.

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post #3 of 234 (permalink) Old 12-04-2018, 07:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote: Originally Posted by wheatpaste1999 View Post
I'm using the same top and side rads as you (in the same case) and you can make a pretty clean connection the way you're describing with fittings only. The only problem with this is it gets tricky connecting it all together and you will likely need either an adjustable length dplug or a rotary extension fitting to tighten everything up. Not impossible, but it may not work exactly as you want. Also, having all these fittings exposed at the front of the case can look pretty bulky. After I messed with this section for a while I found it cleaner to come out from the front port of the side rad with an extension (to clear the fans), one 90 degree rotary and extension to push the run to the front of the case and to get alignment with the top rad inside port, one 90 degree rotary pointed down, bend a small length of tube with a single 90 degree bend, then a final 90 degree rotary fitting back to the top rad inside port. Sounds like a lot, but from the front of the case you really only see a simple 90 degree bend and two 90 degree fittings.
can you show me yours if youre able to get a good photo of it?
also, ive looked for an extender like this but havent found one. also, what is an "adjustable length dplug" and do you have an example of a 12mm black rotary extension? Ive stayed away from bitspower because of cost and also that darn dragon annoys me, but i can make exception if needed.


Quote: Originally Posted by wheatpaste1999 View Post
If you're using a pump/res combo you might think about entering the pump from the bottom. It would potentially clean up the run from the GPU and then you don't really have to worry about the height of the res, as long as you can still open a port on top for fill and bleed.
the reason i chose the top is because primochill recommends that configuration, saying that having both the in and out at the bottom isnt as.. efficient (i cant remember is they said it was too restrictive, ill have to watch the product video again). perhaps the difference is minimal in reality. Here's the segment where he talks about the in/out at the base of the res (should automatically start at the 24:30 timestamp)
As he states, the inlet is on the right-hand side, which will be facing the front of the case. that will make for a situation where i need to go around the back of the res and make a 180-deg turn. but its def doable and would save me having to run to the top

Quote: Originally Posted by wheatpaste1999 View Post
I haven't used Barrow fittings, but with the Bitspower hardline fittings I've used you need 1 o-ring that the tube pushes into (built into the base of the fitting) and 1 o-ring that slides over the end of the tube and goes between the fitting base and the outer collar. Pretty sure you're on the right track. You may want to check fitting and tube tightness with the o-rings included with your fittings, as there may be slight size variations in the tubing as well as the o-ring.
yeah will do. i know that not all hard tubing will fit with all fittings and that same brands are recommended, but i didnt know this until after i had bought everything and unable to return, so we'll give it a shot as it is for now.
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post #4 of 234 (permalink) Old 12-04-2018, 11:29 AM
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barrow fittings have 2 o-rings in the package. one of them goes between the fitting and the compression ring. the other one is a spare, a have a bag full of them))) however they do come handy if you damage any of 3 o-rings. I never had problems with barrow and I rebuilt my rig twice.
you can also place a third slim rad at the bottom of the case if you need more rad space (ultra quiet rig)
and even have a vertically mounted GPU with minor mods to the case. (does not require cutting the case like I did. only 2 holles to secure the GPU)
https://www.overclock.net/forum/atta...1&d=1543947946
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post #5 of 234 (permalink) Old 12-04-2018, 05:17 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by MaratRussian View Post
you can also place a third slim rad at the bottom of the case if you need more rad space (ultra quiet rig)
and even have a vertically mounted GPU with minor mods to the case. (does not require cutting the case like I did. only 2 holles to secure the GPU)
Where does one have to drill the holes if you don't mind me asking? Is it on that flat piece all the way at the very top of the opening for the PCI-E brackets?

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post #6 of 234 (permalink) Old 12-04-2018, 07:25 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Zammin View Post
Where does one have to drill the holes if you don't mind me asking? Is it on that flat piece all the way at the very top of the opening for the PCI-E brackets?
Yes, there was enough space to secure vertically mounted gpu. The only reason I did not do it is - I need pcie slots for usb3 and nvme ssd (i have a really old x58 mobo)
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post #7 of 234 (permalink) Old 12-05-2018, 08:27 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by michaelrw View Post
can you show me yours if youre able to get a good photo of it?
also, ive looked for an extender like this but havent found one. also, what is an "adjustable length dplug" and do you have an example of a 12mm black rotary extension? Ive stayed away from bitspower because of cost and also that darn dragon annoys me, but i can make exception if needed.
I'll try to get you a picture later today.

The D-plugs are basically a quick disconnect that doesn't stop the flow of water lol. Good for connecting components together where you just can't tighten fittings together, but you have to be careful where you use them, since the two halves of the d-plug can pull apart easily (that's the point). Here's what those look like (I'm sure Barrow makes something similar, probably just has a different name):
http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitsp...ck-finish.html
http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitsp...ck-finish.html

There's also this one, the expandable aqua-link pipe, which gives you more adjustment and allows you to tighten everything down. This is probably a better option than the d-plugs:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitsp...e-16-22mm.html

This is one example of a rotary extension and there are many variations (again I'm sure Barrow has similar):
http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitsp...-extender.html



Quote: Originally Posted by michaelrw View Post
the reason i chose the top is because primochill recommends that configuration, saying that having both the in and out at the bottom isnt as.. efficient (i cant remember is they said it was too restrictive, ill have to watch the product video again). perhaps the difference is minimal in reality. Here's the segment where he talks about the in/out at the base of the res (should automatically start at the 24:30 timestamp) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0nAA...outu.be&t=1470
As he states, the inlet is on the right-hand side, which will be facing the front of the case. that will make for a situation where i need to go around the back of the res and make a 180-deg turn. but its def doable and would save me having to run to the top
I took a closer look at that pump/res combo and it looks like you're right. It looks like if you use both of the bottom ports you will completely bypass the reservoir and it's not going to work well. You might still want to test it with both in and out at the bottom, but seems like you might be stuck using the top of the res for the inlet/return.

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post #8 of 234 (permalink) Old 12-05-2018, 06:51 PM - Thread Starter
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I may just do this run with fittings only. I need to put the rad back and see where I’m at. It may not work out but I had extensions of all sizes. Only thing is that the5mm extension (smallest they make) is in silver. Out of stock on black. But I figured if I need it in a location that can’t be seen, then no problem. Anyways.. here’s a photo of where we are thus far
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post #9 of 234 (permalink) Old 12-05-2018, 07:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Update: doesn’t look good. I need to add about 5mm to the right side. But I can’t use the silver one here. I can remove the 20mm that’s on there now (going vertical), and replace it with a 10mm+15mm, for a net of 5mm. And the 15mm is a ‘micro adjustment’ fitting so i think it goes up to 16.5mm. So, that may come in handy.

The other option is to replace these two 90-deg G1/4 adapters with 90-deg tube fittings and put a single horizontal piece of acrylic tubing to link the two sides (see picture I attached to this post)
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post #10 of 234 (permalink) Old 12-05-2018, 08:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Right, so here we go. I just need to tighten those 3 10mm fittings in the middle front. They’re not fully tightened bc I don’t need it to be and I’ll be removing the rad a few more times while this project is ongoing. What you see there in the front is: 10mm Male-Female (M-F), 10mm M-M, 10mm M-F. So i would replace all of these with a single 30mm M-M connection, like the extendable fitting that can go from 25 to 34mm (THDJ25-V1). However I don’t think that fitting looks as nice because of the smaller diameter on part of it

https://modmymods.com/barrow-g1-4-25...v1-silver.html
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