Recommendations for a custom loop for a quiet extreme rig (Core i7-9900K + GeForce RTX 2080 Ti) - Page 5 - Overclock.net - An Overclocking Community

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Recommendations for a custom loop for a quiet extreme rig (Core i7-9900K + GeForce RTX 2080 Ti)

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post #41 of 103 (permalink) Old 01-07-2019, 09:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote: Originally Posted by broodro0ster View Post
Quote: Originally Posted by lb_felipe View Post
Thank you, my friend. i think I am done. Please analyze this list and see if the count is right, if something is missing, if there is a mistake and if everything goes together.



01 x Intel Core i9-9900K
01 x GIGABYTE Z390 AORUS XTREME
01 x G.SKILL Trident Z DDR4 32GB (8GBx4) 4000MHz 18-19-19-39 1.35v
01 x ASUS ROG Strix GeForce RTX 2080 Ti OC
01 x Intel Optane SSD 905P 1.5TB AIC
02 x Samsung 970 EVO 2TB
-----
01 x Lian Li PC – V3000
01 x Seasonic PRIME Ultra 1000 Titanium
01 x Watercool HEATKILLER IV PRO (INTEL processor) BLACK COPPER
01 x Watercool HEATKILLER IV for ASUS RTX 2080 Ti STRIX - ACRYL Ni-Bl RGB
01 x Watercool HEATKILLER Tube 200
01 x EKWB EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 PWM Serial
02 x Hardware Labs Black Ice SR2 420 MP
10 x Noctua NF-A12x25 PWM
03 x Noctua NA-SFMA1
10 x Bitspower G1/4" Black Sparkle Compression Fitting CC3 Ultimate For ID 3/8" OD 5/8" Tube
04 x Bitspower G1/4" Black Sparkle Triple Rotary 90-Degree Compression Fitting CC3 Ultimate For ID 3/8" OD5/8" Tube
01 x PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Flexible Tubing - 3/8in.ID x 5/8in.OD - Retail Bundle (10ft pack) - Crystal Clear
01 x Mayhems X1 Clear 1 Ltr Premixed
01 x Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut
02 x Aqua Computer Shoggy Sandwich black edition
01 x Aqua Computer aquaero 6 LT
01 x Aqua Computer Calitemp
01 x Aqua Computer Flow sensor high flow G1/4
01 x Aqua Computer Connection cable for flow sensor length 70 cm
-----
01 x ZOWIE CELERITAS II
01 x ZOWIE FK2
01 x ZOWIE G-SR
01 x Razer Wolverine Ultimate
01 x Logitech 4K Pro Webcam
01 x ASUS ROG Swift PG27UQ
-----
01 x beyerdynamic Team TYGR
02 x Genelec G Three
01 x Genelec F Two
01 x Genelec 9000A
01 x Blue Jeans Cable LC-1
01 x Blue Jeans Cable MSA-1
_____

Off-topic: Eagles just made touchdown!
A few small remarks:
- Do you have enough with 10 fittings? I use 12 in my build and I have a pump/res combo. I would need at least 14 fittings in my build with a separate res and pump.
- An extra fittings is nice to have to connect to your drain valve so you can attach a piece of tubing to drain a bucket. Do you have a drain valve for your build?
- 90° rotary's are nice, but they don't always fit in tight spaces. Might have to buy 2 or 3 normal 90° to be safe.
- I see only 1 calitemp
- I sugges to get to 2 litres of coolant. Those SR radiators take a lot of fluid. I'm just over 1 liter with a 500ml reservoir and 2x GTS + CPU and GPU block. I think you'll need about 1.5l-1.7l of coolant
- Is it the best choice to use 120mm fans with adapters for a 140mm rad? I'm have no experience with 140mm fans and radiators, but there might be better options.

Other than that I have no remarks. It will be a wicked build [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif[/IMG]
Thanks for reply.

In total are 14 fittings (CPU, GFX, RAD1, RAD2, RES, PUMP and SENS). There are ten straight fittings plus four angled ones.

However I taken your tip. Will put one more Calitemp. What drain valve do you recommend? Will put some normal 90 degrees and, who knows, some 45° as well.

I am going to include two liters of X1. I chosen SR2 420 with 12cm fans just because PPCs doesn't have SR2 360. I know then I should choose 140mm fans but everywhere it is told A12x25 is the best radiators fans (acoustic wise) period. Otherwise, I'd chosen Silent Wings 3 140mm. Anyway should I opt to two 360GTS, or even keep two SR2 420 but opting for six 140mm fan?

last but not least, what to use to fix the reservoir on the case?

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post #42 of 103 (permalink) Old 01-08-2019, 02:08 AM
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Just a quick note about the Calitemp sensors for the Aquaero. The Aquaero comes with 4 temp sensors that can be used to track air or coolant temps with good placement, or you can buy the same sensor built into a fitting as a water temp sensor. I find that attaching the included sensors to somewhere like the end tank of a radiator gives a better reading than the dedicated coolant temp sensors. The dedicated fitting type coolant sensors are just measuring the temp of the fitting that is relatively thick while the end tank of a rad is quite thin with lots of surface area to stick close to real coolant temp.
The Calitemp can be used just to calibrate the included sensors by adjusting their offset so they match the Calitemp reading.

The Calitemp devices are expensive and resource hungry if more than one is used.
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post #43 of 103 (permalink) Old 01-08-2019, 02:58 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by lb_felipe View Post
Thanks for reply.

In total are 14 fittings (CPU, GFX, RAD1, RAD2, RES, PUMP and SENS). There are ten straight fittings plus four angled ones.

However I taken your tip. Will put one more Calitemp. What drain valve do you recommend? Will put some normal 90 degrees and, who knows, some 45° as well.

I am going to include two liters of X1. I chosen SR2 420 with 12cm fans just because PPCs doesn't have SR2 360. I know then I should choose 140mm fans but everywhere it is told A12x25 is the best radiators fans (acoustic wise) period. Otherwise, I'd chosen Silent Wings 3 140mm. Anyway should I opt to two 360GTS, or even keep two SR2 420 but opting for six 140mm fan?

last but not least, what to use to fix the reservoir on the case?
The things is that you will lose 25% of the rad space by going with smaller fans.
Have a look here to find good 140mm fans: http://thermalbench.com/2016/10/31/b...h-speed-fan/3/

You can just get the mouting kit and mount it to your case, but you'll have to drill 4 holes in the case.

Quote: Originally Posted by Ashcroft View Post
Just a quick note about the Calitemp sensors for the Aquaero. The Aquaero comes with 4 temp sensors that can be used to track air or coolant temps with good placement, or you can buy the same sensor built into a fitting as a water temp sensor. I find that attaching the included sensors to somewhere like the end tank of a radiator gives a better reading than the dedicated coolant temp sensors. The dedicated fitting type coolant sensors are just measuring the temp of the fitting that is relatively thick while the end tank of a rad is quite thin with lots of surface area to stick close to real coolant temp.
The Calitemp can be used just to calibrate the included sensors by adjusting their offset so they match the Calitemp reading.

The Calitemp devices are expensive and resource hungry if more than one is used.
I didn't know the calitemp sensors were resource hungry. I use 2 Alphacool inline sensors, but their calibration was off out of the box. I connected both sensors to each other and calibrated them to the same value while some water was flowing through them.

The metal isn't actually that thick on my sensors. It looks thick, but that's because the sensors is also inside the fitting. They work very well and you don't have to worry about having them coming loose, but I bet 2 normal sensors taped to the end tank will also work fine.

My Rig
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CPU
Intel i7 8700k
Motherboard
Asus Hero X
GPU
MSI 1080TI Gaming X
RAM
Corsair Vengeance LPX 3000C15
Hard Drive
Samsung 970 EVO
Hard Drive
Samsung 850 EVO
Power Supply
Corsair RM850X
Cooling
EK Supremacy EVO
Cooling
Dual Hardware Labs Nemesis 360GTS with FD Venturi HP-12 PWM fans
Cooling
EK D5 PWM
Cooling
EK 1080 Strix waterblock + backplate
Case
Fractal Design Define R6
Operating System
Windows Pro 10
Monitor
Acer XB271HU 1440p 165hz IPS
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post #44 of 103 (permalink) Old 01-08-2019, 03:11 AM
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hey Felipe,


I only see this thread now for the first time . Very nice setup you're planning. The best there is essentially as of now and you'll be very pleased. I know because I currently own it as well but with 3 rads instead of 2. I use the SR2 rads which are awesome not only because of their silence and cooling but also because of the 8 ports which allow you easier building and planning drain/fill ports. You will LOVE that particular feature !

Believe it or not but in addition I have a same setup in another location since 2 weeks now but with 1 radiator less and it makes a difference. After measuring and comparing my 2 rigs I now have to respectfully disagree with @broodro0ster on the theory that the front rad's warmed air makes it nearly useless. Quite the contrary, a bit more delta on air in the case going through the top rad doesn't seem to make much difference at all but the extra fan space makes all the difference because it simply allows the heat to be removed faster from more rad surface keeping temps down and therefore allowing you to run the fan speed lower. So I have to advise maximizing rad space to the max your case can take. You're looking at 600-700W peaks for your setup when all is eventually overclocked and running at full load.

Just like you I'm a big fan of silence and measuring everything digitally to have control and overview of my system as well as to learn and get 'feeling' with my hardware and testing/measuring the little differences. I achieved all my goals in the first mentioned build here with the 3 rads.

In order to measure not only flow but also water temperature digitally I use the following flow meter and love it since it only requires an internal USB connector and power connector (no dedicated temp/flow meter connectors needed on your motherboard) and comes with its own solid software to display readings and also keep logs over time:

https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product...oducts_id=2897

another reason to chose this flow meter is that this component is made to allow high flow, not restricting it too much. Remember from your basic fluidomechanica lessons in highschool that a single most restrictive component (e.g a restrictive filter or flow meter) in a closed fluid loop determines the resulting flow and can bring it down. Same goes for the SR2 rads btw. They are also optimized for high flow.

Combining 3 SR2 rads, this flow meter, a gpu block, cpu block, mobo vrm integrated block, a bunch of QDC's which make your life 10 times easier on maintenance, I still can run everything off 1 single EK D5 pump at around 90% pwm capacity with a resulting 120 l/h flow. I don't hear the pump in the case under those circumstances. D5 is very quiet and awesomely strong. Dual pump makes sense since it would allow you to run them at much lower than 90% of max RPM and add redundancy in case one fails. I'm considering that option myself for a future upgrade but for now I've been doing successfully without.

As fan controller I use Corsair Commander Pro because it also allows me to monitor and control not only the fans digitally but also the Corsair AX1200i psu, including graphs over time.

You'll run out of internal USB connectors very fast as mobo's nowadays typically only have one on board and my setup needs 5 in total in order to connect everything. The corsair Commander Pro already has 2 integrated USB connnectors so it acts like a mini hub and to add another 3 I use this:

https://www.nzxt.com/products/internal-usb-hub


This setup has been successfully running for over 2.5 years now with dual Titan X (Pascal) in SLI and now since a few weeks I replaced both Titans with a single 2080ti.

Good luck and have fun building since the building itself of a machine like this is an awesome experience and I'm sure you'll run into many little unforeseen challenges to overcome !

my first tip for you: order your case first (separately) and start measuring everything inside the empty case (rad space, tube connectors etc) before you order the actual parts

Last edited by profundido; 01-08-2019 at 03:16 AM.
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post #45 of 103 (permalink) Old 01-08-2019, 03:19 AM
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I guess resource hungry isn't the correct term. I dunno why I said that. What I mean is that the Aquaero only supports a single one natively and to add more you need to also add the the Aquabus add on board things. The x4?

It's more hardware to connect up and get working through the finicky Aquabus just for another temp sensor.
The standard temp sensors are plenty accurate enough, it's just that as you say, they can be offset from each other especially if they are not the same brand. Thats why I think the calitemp is meant just as a device to bring all the sensors together for accurate readings.

The only difference I have seen between different sensors of different brands placed in different locations is how closely they stick to the measured surface or fluids temp when it changes rapidly. A big metal sensor changes slowly while the film sensors change quick.
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post #46 of 103 (permalink) Old 01-08-2019, 03:59 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by profundido View Post
hey Felipe,


I only see this thread now for the first time . Very nice setup you're planning. The best there is essentially as of now and you'll be very pleased. I know because I currently own it as well but with 3 rads instead of 2. I use the SR2 rads which are awesome not only because of their silence and cooling but also because of the 8 ports which allow you easier building and planning drain/fill ports. You will LOVE that particular feature !

Believe it or not but in addition I have a same setup in another location since 2 weeks now but with 1 radiator less and it makes a difference. After measuring and comparing my 2 rigs I now have to respectfully disagree with @broodro0ster on the theory that the front rad's warmed air makes it nearly useless. Quite the contrary, a bit more delta on air in the case going through the top rad doesn't seem to make much difference at all but the extra fan space makes all the difference because it simply allows the heat to be removed faster from more rad surface keeping temps down and therefore allowing you to run the fan speed lower. So I have to advise maximizing rad space to the max your case can take. You're looking at 600-700W peaks for your setup when all is eventually overclocked and running at full load.

Just like you I'm a big fan of silence and measuring everything digitally to have control and overview of my system as well as to learn and get 'feeling' with my hardware and testing/measuring the little differences. I achieved all my goals in the first mentioned build here with the 3 rads.

In order to measure not only flow but also water temperature digitally I use the following flow meter and love it since it only requires an internal USB connector and power connector (no dedicated temp/flow meter connectors needed on your motherboard) and comes with its own solid software to display readings and also keep logs over time:

https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product...oducts_id=2897

another reason to chose this flow meter is that this component is made to allow high flow, not restricting it too much. Remember from your basic fluidomechanica lessons in highschool that a single most restrictive component (e.g a restrictive filter or flow meter) in a closed fluid loop determines the resulting flow and can bring it down. Same goes for the SR2 rads btw. They are also optimized for high flow.

Combining 3 SR2 rads, this flow meter, a gpu block, cpu block, mobo vrm integrated block, a bunch of QDC's which make your life 10 times easier on maintenance, I still can run everything off 1 single EK D5 pump at around 90% pwm capacity with a resulting 120 l/h flow. I don't hear the pump in the case under those circumstances. D5 is very quiet and awesomely strong. Dual pump makes sense since it would allow you to run them at much lower than 90% of max RPM and add redundancy in case one fails. I'm considering that option myself for a future upgrade but for now I've been doing successfully without.

As fan controller I use Corsair Commander Pro because it also allows me to monitor and control not only the fans digitally but also the Corsair AX1200i psu, including graphs over time.

You'll run out of internal USB connectors very fast as mobo's nowadays typically only have one on board and my setup needs 5 in total in order to connect everything. The corsair Commander Pro already has 2 integrated USB connnectors so it acts like a mini hub and to add another 3 I use this:

https://www.nzxt.com/products/internal-usb-hub


This setup has been successfully running for over 2.5 years now with dual Titan X (Pascal) in SLI and now since a few weeks I replaced both Titans with a single 2080ti.

Good luck and have fun building since the building itself of a machine like this is an awesome experience and I'm sure you'll run into many little unforeseen challenges to overcome !

my first tip for you: order your case first (separately) and start measuring everything inside the empty case (rad space, tube connectors etc) before you order the actual parts
We recommended him an Aquaero which is even better than the commander pro. The sensor is recommended him can be directly connected to the the aquaero without needing the internal USB port. It's the same flow sensor as your just without USB and thus cheaper.

You could have better temps with intake/exhaust if you case doesn't has a lot of ventilation, but dual intake dropped my watertemps by 5C (from 13C to 8C delta) in my Define R6.

His Lian Li V3000 is best of both worlds, since it basicly a dual chamber design. The will have cool intake fans and exhaust rad rad. Same for the bottom pedestal.

Quote: Originally Posted by Ashcroft View Post
I guess resource hungry isn't the correct term. I dunno why I said that. What I mean is that the Aquaero only supports a single one natively and to add more you need to also add the the Aquabus add on board things. The x4?

It's more hardware to connect up and get working through the finicky Aquabus just for another temp sensor.
The standard temp sensors are plenty accurate enough, it's just that as you say, they can be offset from each other especially if they are not the same brand. Thats why I think the calitemp is meant just as a device to bring all the sensors together for accurate readings.

The only difference I have seen between different sensors of different brands placed in different locations is how closely they stick to the measured surface or fluids temp when it changes rapidly. A big metal sensor changes slowly while the film sensors change quick.
That's true. I actually didn't think about telling him to get an aquabus splitter, but maybe it's better/cheaper to recommend to 10k ohm inline water sensors.

My Rig
(18 items)
CPU
Intel i7 8700k
Motherboard
Asus Hero X
GPU
MSI 1080TI Gaming X
RAM
Corsair Vengeance LPX 3000C15
Hard Drive
Samsung 970 EVO
Hard Drive
Samsung 850 EVO
Power Supply
Corsair RM850X
Cooling
EK Supremacy EVO
Cooling
Dual Hardware Labs Nemesis 360GTS with FD Venturi HP-12 PWM fans
Cooling
EK D5 PWM
Cooling
EK 1080 Strix waterblock + backplate
Case
Fractal Design Define R6
Operating System
Windows Pro 10
Monitor
Acer XB271HU 1440p 165hz IPS
Keyboard
Corsair K70
Mouse
Zowie FK-2
Mousepad
Steel Series QCK Heavy
Audio
Sennheiser HD598 + ModMic 4.0
▲ hide details ▲
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post #47 of 103 (permalink) Old 01-08-2019, 07:49 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by lb_felipe View Post
I am here again... Okay, I put aquero on the list but how I expand it to acommodate more fans?

Besides splitting up the connection from one of the 4 channels you can also buy QUADROs to give you additional fan channels to control.
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post #48 of 103 (permalink) Old 01-10-2019, 11:49 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote: Originally Posted by Ashcroft View Post
Just a quick note about the Calitemp sensors for the Aquaero. The Aquaero comes with 4 temp sensors that can be used to track air or coolant temps with good placement, or you can buy the same sensor built into a fitting as a water temp sensor. I find that attaching the included sensors to somewhere like the end tank of a radiator gives a better reading than the dedicated coolant temp sensors. The dedicated fitting type coolant sensors are just measuring the temp of the fitting that is relatively thick while the end tank of a rad is quite thin with lots of surface area to stick close to real coolant temp.
The Calitemp can be used just to calibrate the included sensors by adjusting their offset so they match the Calitemp reading.

The Calitemp devices are expensive and resource hungry if more than one is used.
What? The dedicated temp (Calitemp) sensor has its porbe tip off water? I thought it was inside the fitting. Thanks for the tip.

Quote: Originally Posted by broodro0ster View Post
The things is that you will lose 25% of the rad space by going with smaller fans.
Have a look here to find good 140mm fans: http://thermalbench.com/2016/10/31/b...h-speed-fan/3/

You can just get the mouting kit and mount it to your case, but you'll have to drill 4 holes in the case.


I didn't know the calitemp sensors were resource hungry. I use 2 Alphacool inline sensors, but their calibration was off out of the box. I connected both sensors to each other and calibrated them to the same value while some water was flowing through them.

The metal isn't actually that thick on my sensors. It looks thick, but that's because the sensors is also inside the fitting. They work very well and you don't have to worry about having them coming loose, but I bet 2 normal sensors taped to the end tank will also work fine.
I am torn with 140mm high end quiet fan (like SW3) and NF-A12x25 PWM (the best fan for radiators and all round).

The holes for HDD bays inside V3000 doesn't allow this? http://shop.watercool.de/epages/Wate...Products/30236

If so, I will buy it and put the reservoir on that brackets in the HDD location since I will not have HDDs or others 2.5" drives (all SSDs will be card or M.2).

Quote: Originally Posted by profundido View Post
hey Felipe,


I only see this thread now for the first time . Very nice setup you're planning. The best there is essentially as of now and you'll be very pleased. I know because I currently own it as well but with 3 rads instead of 2. I use the SR2 rads which are awesome not only because of their silence and cooling but also because of the 8 ports which allow you easier building and planning drain/fill ports. You will LOVE that particular feature !

Believe it or not but in addition I have a same setup in another location since 2 weeks now but with 1 radiator less and it makes a difference. After measuring and comparing my 2 rigs I now have to respectfully disagree with @broodro0ster on the theory that the front rad's warmed air makes it nearly useless. Quite the contrary, a bit more delta on air in the case going through the top rad doesn't seem to make much difference at all but the extra fan space makes all the difference because it simply allows the heat to be removed faster from more rad surface keeping temps down and therefore allowing you to run the fan speed lower. So I have to advise maximizing rad space to the max your case can take. You're looking at 600-700W peaks for your setup when all is eventually overclocked and running at full load.

Just like you I'm a big fan of silence and measuring everything digitally to have control and overview of my system as well as to learn and get 'feeling' with my hardware and testing/measuring the little differences. I achieved all my goals in the first mentioned build here with the 3 rads.

In order to measure not only flow but also water temperature digitally I use the following flow meter and love it since it only requires an internal USB connector and power connector (no dedicated temp/flow meter connectors needed on your motherboard) and comes with its own solid software to display readings and also keep logs over time:

https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product...oducts_id=2897

another reason to chose this flow meter is that this component is made to allow high flow, not restricting it too much. Remember from your basic fluidomechanica lessons in highschool that a single most restrictive component (e.g a restrictive filter or flow meter) in a closed fluid loop determines the resulting flow and can bring it down. Same goes for the SR2 rads btw. They are also optimized for high flow.

Combining 3 SR2 rads, this flow meter, a gpu block, cpu block, mobo vrm integrated block, a bunch of QDC's which make your life 10 times easier on maintenance, I still can run everything off 1 single EK D5 pump at around 90% pwm capacity with a resulting 120 l/h flow. I don't hear the pump in the case under those circumstances. D5 is very quiet and awesomely strong. Dual pump makes sense since it would allow you to run them at much lower than 90% of max RPM and add redundancy in case one fails. I'm considering that option myself for a future upgrade but for now I've been doing successfully without.

As fan controller I use Corsair Commander Pro because it also allows me to monitor and control not only the fans digitally but also the Corsair AX1200i psu, including graphs over time.

You'll run out of internal USB connectors very fast as mobo's nowadays typically only have one on board and my setup needs 5 in total in order to connect everything. The corsair Commander Pro already has 2 integrated USB connnectors so it acts like a mini hub and to add another 3 I use this:

https://www.nzxt.com/products/internal-usb-hub


This setup has been successfully running for over 2.5 years now with dual Titan X (Pascal) in SLI and now since a few weeks I replaced both Titans with a single 2080ti.

Good luck and have fun building since the building itself of a machine like this is an awesome experience and I'm sure you'll run into many little unforeseen challenges to overcome !

my first tip for you: order your case first (separately) and start measuring everything inside the empty case (rad space, tube connectors etc) before you order the actual parts
Great post. I still am reading it. I will reread and consider each point.

Quote: Originally Posted by zeroibis View Post
Besides splitting up the connection from one of the 4 channels you can also buy QUADROs to give you additional fan channels to control.
My concern is available of USB internal header of motherboard, but a friend already posted an NZXT internal splitter, so I think I will be fine.

However, I would like to use the sensors of the moptherboard. I just don't know if it is so accurate as the Aquacomputer's.

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post #49 of 103 (permalink) Old 01-10-2019, 01:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Will I need a tap to use with a drain valve? How does it work?

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post #50 of 103 (permalink) Old 01-11-2019, 01:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Sorry, guys, for not expressing very well and not commenting on each point raised, but I do not know how to speak English. So I have to use Google Translator.


At the moment, my list looks like this:

001 x Intel Core i9-9900K
001 x GIGABYTE Z390 AORUS XTREME
001 x G.SKILL Trident Z RGB DDR4 32GB (8GBx4) 4133MHz 17-17-17-37 1.40v
001 x ASUS ROG Strix GeForce RTX 2080 Ti OC
001 x Intel Optane SSD 905P 1.5TB AIC
002 x Samsung 970 EVO 2TB
-----
001 x Lian Li PC – V3000
001 x Seasonic PRIME Ultra 1000 Titanium
001 x Watercool HEATKILLER IV PRO (INTEL processor) COPPER NI
001 x Watercool HEATKILLER IV for ASUS RTX 2080 Ti STRIX - ACRYL Ni RGB
001 x Watercool HEATKILLER Tube 200
001 x Watercool HEATKILLER Tube - basic mounting kit
001 x EKWB EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 PWM Serial
002 x Hardware Labs Black Ice SR2 420 MP
010 x Noctua NF-A12x25 PWM
003 x Noctua NA-SFMA1
010 x Bitspower G1/4" Black Sparkle Compression Fitting CC3 Ultimate For ID 3/8" OD 5/8" Tube
002 x Bitspower G1/4" Black Sparkle Dual Rotary Angle Compression Fitting CC3 Ultimate For ID 3/8" OD 5/8" Tube
002 x Bitspower G1/4" Black Sparkle Dual Rotary 45-Degree Compression Fitting CC3 Ultimate For ID 3/8" OD 5/8" Tube
002 x Bitspower G1/4" Black Sparkle Triple Rotary 90-Degree Compression Fitting CC3 Ultimate For ID 3/8" OD5/8" Tube
001 x Bitspower Black Sparkle Mini Valve With Silver Shining Handle
001 x Bitspower Premium G1/4" Black Sparkle Stop Fitting
001 x PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Flexible Tubing - 3/8in.ID x 5/8in.OD - Retail Bundle (10ft pack) - Crystal Clear
002 x Mayhems X1 Clear 1 Ltr Premixed
001 x Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut
002 x Aqua Computer Shoggy Sandwich black edition
001 x Aqua Computer aquaero 6 LT
002 x Aqua Computer Calitemp
001 x Aqua Computer Flow sensor high flow G1/4
001 x Aqua Computer Connection cable for flow sensor length 70 cm
-----
001 x ZOWIE CELERITAS II
001 x ZOWIE FK2
001 x ZOWIE G-SR
001 x Razer Wolverine Ultimate
001 x Logitech 4K Pro Webcam
001 x ASUS ROG Swift PG27UQ
-----
001 x beyerdynamic Team TYGR
002 x Genelec G Three
001 x Genelec F Two
001 x Genelec 9000A
001 x Blue Jeans Cable LC-1
001 x Blue Jeans Cable MSA-1

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