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post #21 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-31-2019, 07:10 PM
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This is a very typical example of stagnant zine corrosion caused by not using an anti corrosive. It's got nothing to do with silver.

Taking the top off and cleaning the block with some non abrasive metal Polish will make it look a lot better but there is most likely some degree of permanent damage to the finish.
The good news is, it's just the finish. The function of the block is unaffected. Using corrosion inhibitor will prevent the damage from worsening too much and there is no risk to other parts of the loop. Corrosion is not contagious, and the metal plating that disappeared from the block simply dissolves back into solution the same way it was when it was put on the block in the first place. Filters can't filter dissolved metals.

Always use corrosion inhibitor.

Many of us here in the Australian forums have had good results with liquid Utopia over many years. I think mainly because we have never had a lot of options to buy coolant locally and it costs a ton to import a bottle. The sysprep is garbage though, don't bother with it. It's just a detergent.

Last edited by Ashcroft; 02-01-2019 at 10:01 PM.
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post #22 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-31-2019, 08:12 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by RX7-2nr View Post
Just say no to nickel plating.
Hi,
Bingo !

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post #23 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-01-2019, 06:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Yea so i will be using sysprep then liquid utopia. Should i do a 24 hour sysprep then do another one after draining the fluid? So 2 syspreps in a row, then the standard liquid utopia addative/distilled water mix?

Quote: Originally Posted by Ashcroft View Post
This is a very typical example of stagnant zine corrosion caused by not using an anti corrosive. It's got nothing to do with silver.

Taking the top off and cleaning the block with some non abrasive metal Polish will make it look a lot better but there is most likely some degree of permanent damage to the finish.
The good news is, it's just the finish. The function of the block is unaffected. Using corrosion inhibitor will prevent the damage from worsening too much and there is no risk to other parts of the loop. Corrosion is not contagious, and the metal plating that disappeared from the block simply dissolves into solution the same way it was when it was put on the block in the first place. Filters can't filter dissolved metals.

Always use corrosion inhibitor.

Many of is here in Australia have had good results with liquid Utopia over many years. The sysprep is garbage though, don't bother with it. It's just a detergent.
Could you please send me an amazon link to a NON abrasive metal polish for nickel and copper? I don't know which one is best.

Quote: Originally Posted by ThrashZone View Post
Quote: Originally Posted by RX7-2nr View Post
Just say no to nickel plating.
Hi,
Bingo !
But i have see nickel plating last with no problems also, i think the guy before me didn't use any anti corrosion additive #/

Last edited by ryan92084; 02-02-2019 at 06:54 AM.
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post #24 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-01-2019, 09:54 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by VolatilXplosion View Post
Could you please send me an amazon link to a NON abrasive metal polish for nickel and copper? I don't know which one is best.
I don't know of any best one, and I don't know what is available in your country. Someone at your local auto parts store will be able to give you some options.

https://www.overclock.net/forum/27454761-post2912.html

https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-w...#post_26245094

https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-w...alvagable.html

Last edited by Ashcroft; 02-01-2019 at 10:02 PM.
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post #25 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-02-2019, 03:45 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Ashcroft View Post
Hi,
Thanks that link was eye opening

EK rads never noticed this bit although both 280CE rads came with a 280p kits so I wouldn't of looked at that detail
90% copper tubing (H90)

Looks like I'll be swapping out 280CE's for my 240 GTX hardware labs rads this weekend 100% copper rads
I was due for a flush... anyway
Thanks for the heads up

CPU
i9-7900x With evo and koolance vrm water blocks
Motherboard
ASUS Prime X299 Deluxe
GPU
Titan Xp with copper Water Block
RAM
Trident Z 3600C16 4x8gb's
Hard Drive
Samsung 850 Pro 256gb for os and 500gb evo for favorite games plus other wd hdd's for data and backup's
Optical Drive
LG Blu-Ray WH16NS40
Power Supply
evga 1200P2
Cooling
2-280GTX Black Ice Nemesis rads with D5 pump-res combo and D5 top before and after rads.
Case
corsair 450D
Operating System
win-7 pro & 10 pro
Monitor
ASUS VG248QE 24" 144Hz
Keyboard
Logitech G910 Orion spectrum
Mouse
redragon
CPU
i7-5930k with evo and koolance vrm water blocks
Motherboard
X99 Sabertooth
GPU
EVGA 1080ti FTW3 with Water block
RAM
Trident-Z 3200C14 4x8gb's
Hard Drive
Samsung 850 Pro 256gb for os and 500gb evo for favorite games plus other wd hdd's for data and backup's
Power Supply
EVGA 1000w P2
Cooling
2-240 GTX Black Ice Nemesis rads/ D5 pump-res combo and D5 top before and after rads.
Case
Corsair 450D
Operating System
win-7 and 10 pro
Monitor
AOC G2460PG 24"G-Sync 144Hz
Mouse
Red Dragon
Hard Drive
eLeaf MELO-3 4ml
Power Supply
SE US18650VTC6 3120mAh 30A 3.6V 18650 Li-ion Battery - GREENx4
Case
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Operating System
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post #26 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-02-2019, 02:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Yes thanks for those links as i canceled the silver coil and just ordered primochill liquid utopia [sysprep first] to use in my dual loop.

I decided on using 2 xspc x4 reservoir pump combos side by side.

1 feeding the 1080ti and 120 rad thats it.

The other 1 feeding the ek supremacy block and a 360 rad.

2 seperate loops should allow me to closely monitor everything easily.
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post #27 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-02-2019, 07:19 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by ThrashZone View Post
Quote: Originally Posted by Ashcroft View Post
Hi,
Thanks that link was eye opening

EK rads never noticed this bit although both 280CE rads came with a 280p kits so I wouldn't of looked at that detail
90% copper tubing (H90)

Looks like I'll be swapping out 280CE's for my 240 GTX hardware labs rads this weekend 100% copper rads
I was due for a flush... anyway
Thanks for the heads up [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/thumb.gif[/IMG]
I really believe that would be a waste of your time and money. The hardware labs rads are not 100% copper either and are you sure they say their tubes are pure copper?

Copper is nearly always an alloy rather than pure copper and the majority of rads use brass in the water contacting parts as well. All fittings are made of brass and that doesn't cause problems and of course brass is much less than 90% copper.

The materials that rads are made of is fairly standardized because certain materials have the right hardness, ductility and cost for certain parts of rads.

It's effectively impossible to have a pure copper loop.

The OP of that thread was completely mistaken about the cause of his problems. It was just an example of the way people blame the wrong things instead of using corrosion protection like the manufacturer recommends.
There is no aluminium or other metals inside Ek rads. It's just copper and brass like just about all other rads.

People just get funny ideas. It used to be Ek was to blame for corrosion of Ek blocks and other brands didn't corrode. Now Ek is to blame for corrosion in other brands blocks 😊. I just think it's interesting how far some people will take it just to blame EK for them not using anti corrosive like ALL manufacturers recommend.

Last edited by Ashcroft; 02-02-2019 at 07:35 PM.
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post #28 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-02-2019, 10:57 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote: Originally Posted by Ashcroft View Post
Quote: Originally Posted by ThrashZone View Post
Quote: Originally Posted by Ashcroft View Post
Hi,
Thanks that link was eye opening

EK rads never noticed this bit although both 280CE rads came with a 280p kits so I wouldn't of looked at that detail
90% copper tubing (H90)

Looks like I'll be swapping out 280CE's for my 240 GTX hardware labs rads this weekend 100% copper rads
I was due for a flush... anyway
Thanks for the heads up [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/thumb.gif[/IMG]
I really believe that would be a waste of your time and money. The hardware labs rads are not 100% copper either and are you sure they say their tubes are pure copper?

Copper is nearly always an alloy rather than pure copper and the majority of rads use brass in the water contacting parts as well. All fittings are made of brass and that doesn't cause problems and of course brass is much less than 90% copper.

The materials that rads are made of is fairly standardized because certain materials have the right hardness, ductility and cost for certain parts of rads.

It's effectively impossible to have a pure copper loop.

The OP of that thread was completely mistaken about the cause of his problems. It was just an example of the way people blame the wrong things instead of using corrosion protection like the manufacturer recommends.
There is no aluminium or other metals inside Ek rads. It's just copper and brass like just about all other rads.

People just get funny ideas. It used to be Ek was to blame for corrosion of Ek blocks and other brands didn't corrode. Now Ek is to blame for corrosion in other brands blocks 😊. I just think it's interesting how far some people will take it just to blame EK for them not using anti corrosive like ALL manufacturers recommend.

Good info @Ashcroft did you see the op of this thread? The previous owner did a number on the 1080ti i got. I opened it up and cleaned it with hot soapy water and even gave it a quick baking soda+vinegar bath for 2 mins in hopes of cleaning it more but the damage is done. I wonder if i should get a non abrasive polish and open up the block yet again and go to town on it with the polish? Even break out a polishing dremel bit or something? Not sure if i should try and smoothen the whole surface out or just leave it? This is my first watercooling journey and starting off with a bang LOL dual loop with a crazy block to boot lmao
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post #29 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-03-2019, 06:05 AM
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Hi,
I asked on cooling experiments and looks like vinegar bath might be the easiest thing to do to get the rest of the nickel off in 48 hours although said normal use I don't believe you've installed it yet.

I was asking about acetone bath.
https://www.overclock.net/forum/134-...l-plating.html

CPU
i9-7900x With evo and koolance vrm water blocks
Motherboard
ASUS Prime X299 Deluxe
GPU
Titan Xp with copper Water Block
RAM
Trident Z 3600C16 4x8gb's
Hard Drive
Samsung 850 Pro 256gb for os and 500gb evo for favorite games plus other wd hdd's for data and backup's
Optical Drive
LG Blu-Ray WH16NS40
Power Supply
evga 1200P2
Cooling
2-280GTX Black Ice Nemesis rads with D5 pump-res combo and D5 top before and after rads.
Case
corsair 450D
Operating System
win-7 pro & 10 pro
Monitor
ASUS VG248QE 24" 144Hz
Keyboard
Logitech G910 Orion spectrum
Mouse
redragon
CPU
i7-5930k with evo and koolance vrm water blocks
Motherboard
X99 Sabertooth
GPU
EVGA 1080ti FTW3 with Water block
RAM
Trident-Z 3200C14 4x8gb's
Hard Drive
Samsung 850 Pro 256gb for os and 500gb evo for favorite games plus other wd hdd's for data and backup's
Power Supply
EVGA 1000w P2
Cooling
2-240 GTX Black Ice Nemesis rads/ D5 pump-res combo and D5 top before and after rads.
Case
Corsair 450D
Operating System
win-7 and 10 pro
Monitor
AOC G2460PG 24"G-Sync 144Hz
Mouse
Red Dragon
Hard Drive
eLeaf MELO-3 4ml
Power Supply
SE US18650VTC6 3120mAh 30A 3.6V 18650 Li-ion Battery - GREENx4
Case
SMOK Alien 220w
Operating System
VapeWild RazzleBerry 50-50-3mg
▲ hide details ▲
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post #30 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-03-2019, 10:06 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote: Originally Posted by ThrashZone View Post
Hi,
I asked on cooling experiments and looks like vinegar bath might be the easiest thing to do to get the rest of the nickel off in 48 hours although said normal use I don't believe you've installed it yet.

I was asking about acetone bath.
https://www.overclock.net/forum/134-...l-plating.html
Looks like you didn't get a solid answer. I have %5 percent vinegar and did a 2 min bath but nothing happened. I have heard some horror stories about leaving in the vinegar for 2 days like more corrosion so i am not sure about it anymore. Seems like it further damages the copper after going through the nickel? At this point i just don't want MORE damage if anything i am considering sanding it with fine sandpaper and and then a metal polish but still need definite answers.
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