Originally Posted by ThrashZone
"Most rads are all copper if they state copper rad not EK's so even if a hardware labs radiator cost a hair more at least it's not as complicated in materials used
EK rad Material:
- Copper fins
- 90% copper tubing
- Brass chambers
- Aluminum/Steel housing
100% copper would be so costly(and too soft) that it wouldn't be worth manufacturing.
But... here is my problem with your opinion. NO Radiator is 100 percent copper. Manufacturers use brass for the tanks in quality built Radiators.
Other than the flexible outer shell EK rads are reasonable. I have a couple and they flex when there are no fans mounted but as soon as there are the flex is gone. Their casings are aluminum. Not steel. Not that it matters because no coolant comes into contact with casings unless there is a leak.
I suspect (and I could be wrong) the OP may have either ham fisted his fittings too tight driving the Radiator port fitting deeper into the thread or he may have dismantled the Radiator and done the same with his 9mm key when putting it back together and installing fittings caused the port fitting to crack and reveal itself when the fitting was removed from the Radiator. What I am seeing from the OP pics is something called a stress fracture.
I am not suggesting it was intentional by any means. But it can happen and I believe that here it did. The core slipped because their are only two mounting points so when he removed the fitting causing the Rad port to tag along the core tilted. When he removed the other one to get that picture the other side slipped a little.
EK manufactures these to allow the casings to be removed should you wish to paint them. That's the beauty of them. Novice Modders don't take i to consideration just how soft 100% copper fins are when they prep a Radiator for paint. Fins are easily bent when just holding one by the wrong place. So naturally a removable core can be gently pulled from the casing and placed on a soft surface while the painting process is being done.
And on the HWLabs quality? They're slipping. They USED TO put steel fin protectors under the fan mounting points. No more. Their Radiators are still good but you better make sure that all the screws are there and that they are the correct length for the fan you are using and don't go further into the mount than 5mm. Otherwise you're bound to puncture that quality unit.
So dude please dispense with the theatrics. You're entitled to your opinion afterall but you obviously don't know what you're talking about when you say quality Rads are 100% copper. My old Stealth 360 had Brass casings and steel fin protectors and I still don't know everything about Radiators. But I do know they are NOT 100% copper.
The only way EK can solve this issue to 100% satisfaction is to reverse tap the Rad and the Rad ports. This way the fittings couldn't drive them beyond their intended seat causing the stress fracture. I can remove a port from a fitting. What I cannot do is fix a stress fractured port.