It won't remove sanding paper scratches so I suppose it's not abrasive enough (even your hand is abrasive when you touch something, or clean towel, or paper, so I don't get this abrasive or not stuff since everything is abrasive even clean water).
You put it on with one cloth and rub it in until clotch turns black, then wipe it clean with a clean cloth. Repeat until you get the result you want. It works on many materials. I didn't have a problem using it on nickel plated cylinder with rotary tool, probably depends how good is your plating.
Wasn't so easy to buy in EU but you can probably find some polish at hardware stores these days and don't have to online order it.
Its fine if people have to learn for themselves the hard way but encouraging others to do the same all based on endlessly repeated internet 'wisdom' is just irresponsible.
The manufacturers all recommend using corrosion protection for a very good reason. They get to see all the people having problems without it.
Some great information. Thank you very much for all this information i am sure ALOT of people will learn from this.
Question: why do you recommend i don't sand it down in the damaged areas? I have suuuuuper fine grit sandpaper that can smoother it out extremely smooth to where a light polish over it would make it smoother than a babys bum. It would prolly save me hours of polishing to sand it smooth first, then polish it out. What do you think?
I have liquid utopia, and will always use an additive in my liquid loops that is FOR SURE lol.
The previous owner of my card said he used "distilled water only" so even more proof of what can happen without corrosion protection coolants.
My mistake. I assumed when you did sand paper you meant common gritty stuff. If you an Emery paper then a bit of light application might be ok. I just didn't want you to make the finish even worse.
Just remember that plating is very thin.
Oh alright thanks. Yea at this point i have nothing to lose lol the corrosion has eaten through the nickel plating in the damaged areas so smoothening it out should only help with water flow and less uneven surfaces for random build up i presume although i will be checking it in 3 months or 6 months max to see the condition of the nickel being that i am going dual loop should be easy. I will open up the card and seperate the block and sand then polish the block tomorrow unless i change my mind. I will have before after pics to show the community here my results.