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Old 02-05-2019, 09:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Phanteks Block for Strix 2080Ti O11G Gaming

@jelome1989 asked if I could share a bit about the Phanteks blocks for the Strix 2080Ti O11G cards. I didnt take photos with the intention of writing a how to for installing these but will post what I did take mostly just to show the difference in the HUGE fail that is a Barrow block that literally took blood from me!

So here goes with what I have.

Phanteks has always made nice presentations of their products, this block is no different Solid firm packaging that not only protects the contents very well it also leaves an initial sense of gratification that you didnt buy in inferior product.

Upon opening the block is presented again a black background with stop fittings and a tube of TIM visible. I cant speak for their TIM, I didnt deploy it for this build and chose to stick with my go to Thermal Grizzly Krynonaut. Once the block is reomoved the cavity below holds the included screws, nylon washers, RGB cable and thermal pads. Speaking of thermal pads it was refreshing to see that they actually too the time to have everything already cut. I find that to be perhaps one of the most annoying parts of the process to take a few included thermal pads in a manufacturers packaging that have to be trimmed along both axis' to get a correct fit. These were simply peel and stick.

For starters its advised to do this on a padded mat and use a anti static grounded wrist strap. Removal of the OEM heatsink is pretty straight forward. Six screws visible through the back plate with 4 around the chip and two more just past the primary VRMS. Remove these six screws and put her on her back. With gentle pressure lift the heat sink and fan assembly off, there will be a little time pressure but it gives way suddenly so be prepared. Roll the entire assembly overended away from the PCIE mount. There you will see the Fan and RGB connectors have latches that are fairly easy to pinch and remove unlike the days of old where you had to be extremely careful or risk damaging the connectors that admittedly, I have done. Once these are disconnected you can lay that aside as you are finished with it and wont be needing it any longer. One tid bit of info the access to the screws around the die are large enough one can reach in and remove the screw with the tamper sticker with a pair of needle nose pliers leaving the sticker completely intact. Supposedly its not necessary in the US market as they made a change to the warranty policy for the US for whatever reason but I still kept it intact regardless. Removal of the support frame which is pretty beefy in the build is also straight forward, remove all the screws but be wary of those on the end going through the PCIE mounting bracket and into the frame, there are two of them that are not next to any output ports. Once the screws are out again with a gentle steady force pull up on the frame until the thermal pad tension gives way and you are holding the frame in your hand. Save all screws that went into the card as they are needed to reattach the OEM back plate. The two going through the PCIE mounting bracket wont be needed, I threaded mine into the support frame from which they came for safe keeping. You wont need to pull the back plate away and disconnect the eye logo RGB header. At this point you can put all the screws back to secure the back plate. For a video to see dissambly Steve at Gamers Nexus did a tear down.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?reload=9&v=3w3_g20ECFM

Now that you have her naked time to get her ready for a new dress that will show off her figure and definitely make for a slimmer figure. I Wipe off the bulk TIM with a paper towel then follow behind with ArctiClean Thermal material remover and Qtips. Its a citrus based solvent that you will have no doubt once you get a whiff of it. Follow behind that with their step two surface purifier or my preference is 99$ Isopropyl Alcohol with Qtips first then just a wipe with a paper towel. I also dab a little on the paper towel to moisten it, not drench, and wipe all other points that will be receiving thermal pads to remove any residue....ie mosfets and chokes.

All the thermal pads are pre cut with very good instructions to their placements. Once of the better installation instructions Ive seen. Peel stiff side, place the pads. I like to do a test fit by completing by aligning the mounting holes setting the block and inserting all 6 screws new ones in kit with nylon washers) completing assembly then removing the block again to check impressions left in the thermal pads to ensure good contact and yes I also use cheap TIM as well to make sure that's seating well too, especially in blocks I havent worked with before. Once Im confident that a block is made as is should be I wont check again. In doing so i leave the top protective layer on the thermal pads until this check is done. Your choice. I can tell you that this block was well made and all thermal pads are the same thickness with no extra thick pads to account for poor design. My test fit was sheer perfection with every component leaving a very nice impression. If you did the test fit of course you will have to clean off the TIM again. Dont forget to remove the top thermal pad film for final fit and reinstall the block.

The RGB cable is not connected to the strip in the block. The strip is not held in by adhesive but fits snugly in its channel. I found it easier to pull the stip out a little to get the cable connected.

Thats it for the most part. There is a protective film over the acrylic front that I leave on until its actually going in the case so the photos don't show the normal shine because the film is still on.

One thing I did before bothering with the second block is make sure the Nvlink bridge fit as Barrow was a total fail at this. How can someone make a block and miss a major design point. For that POS block the G 1/4 terminal block was so far left it was physically impossbile to mount the bridge, even borrowed and tried a different one.

These blocks would actually look nice mounted vertically but until I can source a 2 slot Nvlink Bridge that cant happen.

I meant to write then add photos then write and photo etc but the new format prohibits that, unless Im just to stupid to figure it out.
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Das Beast
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Old 02-05-2019, 09:46 PM - Thread Starter
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Barrow fail

Heres a comparison of the Barrow block. Looks like it was ground by hand and tapped and drilled by hand as well. Blocks are not flat and one large portion doesnt even exist for the secondary mosfets. Only thing that made an OK impression was the die. Nvlink bridge ant physically be installed. Steer clear of this block!! Caused me heartache and bloodshed in more ways than one. You can see sharp edges galore but the one that got was a shard protruding from a tapped screw hole that left a nice gouge in my hand and blood on the card. Was tempted to leave it bloody for the return.

Nice gouge in the material near the channels from what appears to be a drill bit.
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Das Beast
(29 items)
CPU
I9 7900X
Motherboard
Asus Rampage VI Extreme
GPU
Asus Strix 1080 Ti OC
GPU
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RAM
Corsair Dominator Platinum CMD64GX4M8X3800C19
Hard Drive
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Hard Drive
Samsung 850 EVO
Hard Drive
Intel 900P
Power Supply
Corsair AX1500i
Cooling
Aquaero 6 pro controller
Cooling
Corsair SP120 PWM x 18
Cooling
EKWB RVIE Monoblock
Cooling
EKWB Xres 250
Cooling
2x EKWB 1080 Ti Stix blocks and backs
Cooling
EKWB FC SLI parallel triple
Cooling
EKWB 480 XE
Cooling
EKWB 480 PE
Cooling
EKWB 280 CE
Cooling
Corsair ML140 PWM 3
Cooling
D5 pumps x2 in serial bitspower head with mod kit
Case
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Operating System
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Old 02-06-2019, 02:36 PM
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Awesome! Gave me more help than I needed. Thanks!
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Old 02-06-2019, 03:14 PM
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gpu delta water temp under load? And water temp of load?
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Old 02-06-2019, 09:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote: Originally Posted by nycgtr View Post
gpu delta water temp under load? And water temp of load?
With two hot 2080Tis GPU Delta maxed out at +15C with coolant at 30C with coolant at delta of +5C over ambient. I ran the crap out of them for quite awhile looping everything I could think of, Blender, Luxmark, superpostition, and Timespy extreme as well as Port Royal. They were very consistent holding 42-45C . left Valley running on max settings for several hours and that didnt pass 40C. May not be top dog but dont know at this point as EK and Watercool havent shown their products yet. Got tired of waiting and wanted to finish this build. Id about put up my left testicle that they end up right about where pascals did with Phanteks lagging just a little behind. 0.5C behind Watercool and 1C behind EK but having the least resistance of any blocks tested in a comparison by techpower up.....and that was their first block they ever produced.

After they have had some time to settle with a week or two of expansion and contraction and all traces of air are out of my loop ill have a better idea. I dont expcet them to outperform the top dogs but they will certainly not be very far behind.......Biggest positive trait? You can actually buy one of these! LOL Had a Watercool block been out Id not have sneezed and a consideration given on an EK if it had been out. Im about burnt out on EK blocks, time to walk a different path. The rest of my system is Watercool Heatkiller IV pro cpu block , VRM block and Tube 200 res.

After trying that trainwreck AKA Barrow because of taking a man for his word (another story in itself and the last time Ill buy anything from that vendor) it deosnt even come close to comparing to EK, Watercool or Phanteks or even Bitspower. Tried a bits power as well for fit but never ran water through it as I couldnt source a second one anywhere and wasnt all that pleased with the aesthetics of it either. It had a nice fit and finish and left good impressions in the thermal pads.

So at this point I would definitely put the phanteks in as a contender and viable choice that will perform well although maybe a red poonany hair behind other......maybe. We will see when the others are released just where the numbers fall but 1C spread wont amount to a hill of beans. It did allow me to squeeze another 100Hz on the OC and definitely cooler than the egg frying 80C going on with my top card when running on air. Back plate was too hot to touch and its not even making thermal contact! I tiold myself Id be happy if it kept it in the low to mid 40s and its doing just that. Id certainly recommend a beefy loop to keep the coolant temps down, especially if running two of them like I am.

Im thinking Ill get better results come summer time when I have a 20K BTU window AC blowing at the back of my rig.

The one con is they are using the OEM back plate where a properly designed backplate can give you a little more edge on the VRMs

Das Beast
(29 items)
CPU
I9 7900X
Motherboard
Asus Rampage VI Extreme
GPU
Asus Strix 1080 Ti OC
GPU
Asus Strix 1080 Ti OC
RAM
Corsair Dominator Platinum CMD64GX4M8X3800C19
Hard Drive
Samsung 960 Pro
Hard Drive
Samsung 850 EVO
Hard Drive
Intel 900P
Power Supply
Corsair AX1500i
Cooling
Aquaero 6 pro controller
Cooling
Corsair SP120 PWM x 18
Cooling
EKWB RVIE Monoblock
Cooling
EKWB Xres 250
Cooling
2x EKWB 1080 Ti Stix blocks and backs
Cooling
EKWB FC SLI parallel triple
Cooling
EKWB 480 XE
Cooling
EKWB 480 PE
Cooling
EKWB 280 CE
Cooling
Corsair ML140 PWM 3
Cooling
D5 pumps x2 in serial bitspower head with mod kit
Case
Corsair Obsidian 900D
Operating System
WIN 10 Pro
Monitor
ASUS PG34Q
Keyboard
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Last edited by JustinThyme; 02-06-2019 at 09:17 PM.
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Old 02-06-2019, 09:31 PM - Thread Starter
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In case, If I can get a 2 slot Nvlink Im going to put them vertical. As of now no one is making them specifically for the 2080Tis, just speculation that a Quadro RTX 6000 bridge will work. I may have to splurge the $80 to find out but again........friggin miners keep the stock depleted.

Sorry for the angle, just keeping screen glare off the glass. Yeah I need to dress up the power cables yet.....


Das Beast
(29 items)
CPU
I9 7900X
Motherboard
Asus Rampage VI Extreme
GPU
Asus Strix 1080 Ti OC
GPU
Asus Strix 1080 Ti OC
RAM
Corsair Dominator Platinum CMD64GX4M8X3800C19
Hard Drive
Samsung 960 Pro
Hard Drive
Samsung 850 EVO
Hard Drive
Intel 900P
Power Supply
Corsair AX1500i
Cooling
Aquaero 6 pro controller
Cooling
Corsair SP120 PWM x 18
Cooling
EKWB RVIE Monoblock
Cooling
EKWB Xres 250
Cooling
2x EKWB 1080 Ti Stix blocks and backs
Cooling
EKWB FC SLI parallel triple
Cooling
EKWB 480 XE
Cooling
EKWB 480 PE
Cooling
EKWB 280 CE
Cooling
Corsair ML140 PWM 3
Cooling
D5 pumps x2 in serial bitspower head with mod kit
Case
Corsair Obsidian 900D
Operating System
WIN 10 Pro
Monitor
ASUS PG34Q
Keyboard
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Mouse
Asus spatha
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Audio Engine A5+
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Audio engine 192kBPS DAC
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Last edited by JustinThyme; 02-06-2019 at 09:34 PM.
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Old 02-06-2019, 09:55 PM
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I have two strix bitspower ones in nvlink and it's a bit worse than the phanteks. The terminal on the Barrow is a stupid oversight but they probably tested with the standard bridge not the strix one. Meanwhile I wouldn't rag on barrow that hard. You would be surprised to know that ek licenses their block design lol.
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Old 02-06-2019, 10:00 PM
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I got them direct from bp
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Old 02-07-2019, 05:09 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote: Originally Posted by nycgtr View Post
I have two strix bitspower ones in nvlink and it's a bit worse than the phanteks. The terminal on the Barrow is a stupid oversight but they probably tested with the standard bridge not the strix one. Meanwhile I wouldn't rag on barrow that hard. You would be surprised to know that ek licenses their block design lol.
The Barrow wont work with an EVGA or Nvidia bridge either. The stupid oversight is right on par. After looking at everyone elses blocks the G 1/4 terminal is just too far to the left with the edge of the terminal lining up with the GPU mount screws. All the others are a good 1/2 inch more to the right. This is of course viewing from the standard mounting position.

Oh im gonna rag on the Barrow and lets not go there with the license thing. Ive already been raked over the coals for taking someone at their word and should begin a public shaming with them but two wrongs dont make a right.

What kind of temps are you getting with the BP?

Das Beast
(29 items)
CPU
I9 7900X
Motherboard
Asus Rampage VI Extreme
GPU
Asus Strix 1080 Ti OC
GPU
Asus Strix 1080 Ti OC
RAM
Corsair Dominator Platinum CMD64GX4M8X3800C19
Hard Drive
Samsung 960 Pro
Hard Drive
Samsung 850 EVO
Hard Drive
Intel 900P
Power Supply
Corsair AX1500i
Cooling
Aquaero 6 pro controller
Cooling
Corsair SP120 PWM x 18
Cooling
EKWB RVIE Monoblock
Cooling
EKWB Xres 250
Cooling
2x EKWB 1080 Ti Stix blocks and backs
Cooling
EKWB FC SLI parallel triple
Cooling
EKWB 480 XE
Cooling
EKWB 480 PE
Cooling
EKWB 280 CE
Cooling
Corsair ML140 PWM 3
Cooling
D5 pumps x2 in serial bitspower head with mod kit
Case
Corsair Obsidian 900D
Operating System
WIN 10 Pro
Monitor
ASUS PG34Q
Keyboard
ASUS Core
Mouse
Asus spatha
Mouse
Asus Sheath
Audio
Audio Engine A5+
Audio
SVS1000 Sub
Audio
Audio engine 192kBPS DAC
▲ hide details ▲
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Old 02-07-2019, 07:36 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by JustinThyme View Post
The Barrow wont work with an EVGA or Nvidia bridge either. The stupid oversight is right on par. After looking at everyone elses blocks the G 1/4 terminal is just too far to the left with the edge of the terminal lining up with the GPU mount screws. All the others are a good 1/2 inch more to the right. This is of course viewing from the standard mounting position.

Oh im gonna rag on the Barrow and lets not go there with the license thing. Ive already been raked over the coals for taking someone at their word and should begin a public shaming with them but two wrongs dont make a right.

What kind of temps are you getting with the BP?
Yeah not sure why they are blocking. Barrow makes great fittings and rads, I can't say much for the other stuff as I don't buy it. I have over 1000 barrow fittings though lol. Alphacool made the same mistake with the 20 series and the bridges but that's alphacool. I have 3 bp 20 series blocks. The reference, 2 strix ones, and 1 trio one. I haven't mounted my trio one yet. With the bp ref I was seeing a 10-12c delta. With the strix ones I am getting a VERY strange delta. My ambient is warm so my idle water temp is like 30c, under load my water temp will go to 35c and my cards will sit at 50c. However, this delta only widens when I drop my water temp. OVer a week ago it was like 7F outside so I took a window fan and blew it at my computer, I was able to drop my water temp down to 21c and my delta became like 20=21c. It's not a contact issue as I have checked that. Bitspower is currently looking into it for me. It's not something I am going to nuts over but it is a tad disappointing. I've considered getting the phanteks blocks to replace them now I see them available but tbh 5c is probably not worth the cost and hassle of taking the loop apart.
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