Do I need to Liquid Cool my PC? - Overclock.net - An Overclocking Community

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Do I need to Liquid Cool my PC?

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post #1 of 43 (permalink) Old 02-09-2019, 08:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Do I need to Liquid Cool my PC?

Currently I have not overclocked my PC, but I intend to overclock the CPU and GPU as much as I can. The question is, will I need to liquid cool my CPU/GPU if I do overclock both CPU & GPU?

My Current System Build is:

Phanteks Evolv X case
CPU is AMD Ryzen 7 2700X 8-Core Socket AM4 3.7GHz
GPU is Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Aorus Xtreme Edition 11GB
MOBO is Gigabyte X470 AORUS Gaming 7 Wifi Socket AM4
RAM is G.Skill 32GB (2x 16GB) F4-3600C17D-32GTZR DDR4 3600Mhz Trident Z RGB
PSU is Seasonic SS-1050XP3 Platinum 1050W
NVMe – 2 x 1TB Samsung 970 Pro Series M.2 2280 NVMe SSD in Raid 0 config for operating system (2TB of accessible storage)
HDD – 2 x 12TB Seagate IronWolf Pro NAS HDD in Raid 0 config for data (24TB of accessible storage)
PCI Card – StarTech 2-Port PCI Express SATA 6 Gbps eSATA Controller Card
Case Fans: Front intake are 3 x 120 LED that came with case, Rear exhaust is 1 x 140mm Noctura NF-A14 FLX, and top exhaust are 3 x 120mm Noctura NF-S12A FLX
CPU Fan is the Wraith Prism RGB fan that came with AMD CPU
Additionally, have I got my existing fans setup correctly for best cooling - I.E., I believe this is a negative cooling environment and is supposedly best for air cooling (sorry, newbie here)?!?

System Build
Windows 10 Pro, Phanteks Evolv X, Gigabyte X470 Gaming 7 WIFI, Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Xtreme 11GB, AMD Ryzen 7 2700X, G.Skill 32GB F4-3600C17D-32GTZR DDR4 Trident Z RGB, 2 x 1TB Samsung 970 Pro Series M.2 2280 NVMe SSD in Raid 0, 2 x 12TB Seagate IronWolf Pro NAS HDD's in Raid 0, StarTech 2-Port PCI Express SATA 6 Gbps eSATA Controller Card, 3 x 140mm Phanteks LED (front intake), 1 x 140mm NF-A14 FLX (rear exhaust) & and 3 x 120mm NF-S12A FLX (top exhaust) Noctura fans.

Last edited by Old_Rager; 02-09-2019 at 08:23 PM.
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post #2 of 43 (permalink) Old 02-09-2019, 08:12 PM
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Hi,
Never know
Air coolers are pretty cheap compared to water cooling custom loops
AIO's like corsair.... are okay air depending on the case and cooler selected can do pretty close cooling wise mostly AIO's look better as long as a 280mm rad can be fitted although 360mm would be best.

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(4 items)
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i9-7900x With evo and koolance vrm water blocks
Motherboard
ASUS x299 TUF Mark 2
GPU
Titan Xp with copper Water Block
RAM
Trident Z 3600C16 4x8gb's
Hard Drive
Samsung 850 Pro 256gb for os and 500gb evo for favorite games plus other wd hdd's for data and backup's
Optical Drive
LG Blu-Ray WH16NS40
Power Supply
evga 1200P2
Cooling
2-280GTX Black Ice Nemesis rads with D5 pump-res combo and D5 top before and after rads.
Case
corsair 450D with added 2nd floor to house radiator on top
Operating System
Win-7 pro & 10 pro Win-7 Primary os.
Monitor
ASUS VG248QE 24" 144Hz
Keyboard
Logitech G910 Orion spectrum
Mouse
redragon
CPU
i7-5930k with evo and koolance vrm water blocks
Motherboard
X99 Sabertooth
GPU
EVGA 1080ti FTW3 with Water block
RAM
Trident-Z 3200C14 4x8gb's
Hard Drive
Samsung 850 Pro 256gb for os and 500gb evo for favorite games plus other wd hdd's for data and backup's
Power Supply
EVGA 1000w P2
Cooling
2-240 GTX Black Ice Nemesis rads/ D5 pump-res combo and D5 top before and after rads.
Case
Corsair 450D with added 2nd floor to house radiator on top
Operating System
Win-7 and 10 pro Win-7 Primary os.
Monitor
AOC G2460PG 24"G-Sync 144Hz
Mouse
Red Dragon
Hard Drive
eLeaf MELO-3 4ml
Power Supply
SE US18650VTC6 3120mAh 30A 3.6V 18650 Li-ion Battery - GREENx4
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SMOK Alien 220w
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post #3 of 43 (permalink) Old 02-09-2019, 08:30 PM
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Considering Ryzen doesnt overclock very well in the first place beyond stock I wouldnt mess with WCing the CPU. And the GPU well that is up to you if you want to spend $100+ more just for a couple hundred MHz if that much. Would mostly depend how stable your boost and temps are as of right now for the 1080 Ti.

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post #4 of 43 (permalink) Old 02-09-2019, 09:12 PM
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No one's going to tell you not to do it but even veteran water coolers admit, today the benefits aren't worth it. A 9900k and up would be the only way I could see you gaining any clockspeed from water cooling over air, the reason being that with a good air cooler you're likely to hit a voltage wall before a thermal wall. The lower temps may make it easier to stabilize with less vcore but it's not very likely to gain 100mhz unless you're willing to feed it voltage. If you are thermally limited now there could be some benefit to upgrading to a better cooler first (like the True Spirit 140 Power) and re-selling it if you think cooling would allow you more clockspeed. Since current Ryzen doesn't seem to scale with vcore, you're already likely close to your maximum speed. Even with Intel you'd need to pile on the vcore if you wanted to get a higher speed, many aren't going to run over 1.45v on their Intel chips though.
Nvidia's Pascal and Turing removed control over the BIOS from us meaning there's no way to always stay in your maximum boost speed with a stock card. Water cooling it will have a greater impact that it would on the CPU becasue of this. In the past we could just max out the power, voltage and thermal limts with the BIOS and bake in a faster boost speed and it would stay at that boost speed until it throttled. Now the only way to get back into that level of boost and stay there is by cooling it, as you cool it the card will allow more voltage and thus speed as defined by the BIOS. That all sounds like it might be worth it but in reality you stand to gain around 100 to 150mhz over what you'd be able to get on an AIB cooled card. You might even be able to unlock a bit more performance by flashing the BIOS from a different, higher TDP card onto yours (in the past cross flashing was a big no-no but it all we can do now).
Since a good loop (that can keep the GPU around 45c ) would cost at least $600, it would likely be cheaper to sell your current GPU or CPU and upgrade to a (possibly used) faster one, plus that route would give you a larger performance bump I would think.
Water cooling is great but it's more for a hobby and looks that it is performance these days. If you do build a loop with an Intel chip you really could get a large bump in clock speed IF you were willing to push some vcore and really use that extra thermal headroom but beyond that there isn't going to be a drastic performance increase. I'll always recommend upgrading to better parts first because that's 100% guaranteed performance where as a loop could cost well over $600 and get you a small bump in performance. If you're fine with that, by all means build a loop with quality pumps and rads, do a great job and admire it. Then apply it to your next PC. FYI, don't buy everything from EK as there is likely a much better component available for the same price from a different company.

Quote: Originally Posted by SpeedyVT
If you're not doing extreme things to parts for the sake of extreme things regardless of the part you're not a real overclocker.
Quote: Originally Posted by doyll View Post
The key is generally not which brands are good but which specific products are. Motherboards and GPUs are perfect examples of companies having everything from golden to garbage function/quality.
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CPU
4790k 4.7Ghz
Motherboard
Asus Sabertooth Z97 MkII 2
GPU
EVGA GTX 1080 SC
RAM
16gb G.Skill Sniper 2400Mhz
Hard Drive
2x Kingston v300 120gb RAID 0
Hard Drive
WD Blue
Power Supply
Seasonic 620w M12 II EVO
Cooling
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post #5 of 43 (permalink) Old 02-09-2019, 09:31 PM
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Liquid cooling 'Custom loop' looks good and functions well, but its a PITA when you need to swap out or troubleshoot issues with the PC. Quick Disconnects and a well thought out loop can solve this but the cost is higher. I done 4 custom loops and now I just use AIOs instead for the CPU/GPU. I actually gotten better temps using the AIOs. It all depends on how much time and money you feel like investing. Plus factoring in maintenance and issues like leaks,corrosion and algae in a custom loop can be a big turn off for some. With AIOs you don't have to many issues except for a possible leak or pump failure. Pump failure can be addressed with setting the PC to shutdown if CPU gets to hot. But I never has issues with my AIOs from Corsair and I have used dozens between me and ppl I build PCs for. Again it depends on how much time,money and effort you want to put in. But nothing looks better then a proper custom loop with Hard line tubing and good lighting.

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post #6 of 43 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019, 02:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Hey Guys, thanks heaps for the responses and really good info. I think I'll try overclocking first and see what the thermal outcome is in relation to overclocking. With respect to air cooling, am I doing it right with 3 x 140mm's intakes at the front and 1 x 140mm (rear) and 3 x 120mm (top) as exhausts?

System Build
Windows 10 Pro, Phanteks Evolv X, Gigabyte X470 Gaming 7 WIFI, Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Xtreme 11GB, AMD Ryzen 7 2700X, G.Skill 32GB F4-3600C17D-32GTZR DDR4 Trident Z RGB, 2 x 1TB Samsung 970 Pro Series M.2 2280 NVMe SSD in Raid 0, 2 x 12TB Seagate IronWolf Pro NAS HDD's in Raid 0, StarTech 2-Port PCI Express SATA 6 Gbps eSATA Controller Card, 3 x 140mm Phanteks LED (front intake), 1 x 140mm NF-A14 FLX (rear exhaust) & and 3 x 120mm NF-S12A FLX (top exhaust) Noctura fans.

Last edited by Old_Rager; 02-10-2019 at 03:23 AM.
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post #7 of 43 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019, 03:30 AM
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The right layout for fans in your case is the one that works best. There are too many variables to say that X intake and X exhaust is best. Often lots of front intake is good and top exhaust can be good but I really can't tell you if it's the best. I run 2x 140mm intake in the front, one under the GPU and one at the top in front of the CPU cooler with no exhaust. Instead of using exhaust fans (in my case) I prefer to take advantage of the minimal resistance of the back of my case by just allowing positive pressure to push from the top, bottom and front straight out the back. The idea is to get the air out of the case as fast as possible without feeding heat through your CPU or GPU intake. A 1c rise in intake temp equates to 1c higher core temps so I prefer to feed the CPU or GPU with it's own intake fan if possible.

Quote: Originally Posted by SpeedyVT
If you're not doing extreme things to parts for the sake of extreme things regardless of the part you're not a real overclocker.
Quote: Originally Posted by doyll View Post
The key is generally not which brands are good but which specific products are. Motherboards and GPUs are perfect examples of companies having everything from golden to garbage function/quality.
Hot n Bothered
(12 items)
CPU
4790k 4.7Ghz
Motherboard
Asus Sabertooth Z97 MkII 2
GPU
EVGA GTX 1080 SC
RAM
16gb G.Skill Sniper 2400Mhz
Hard Drive
2x Kingston v300 120gb RAID 0
Hard Drive
WD Blue
Power Supply
Seasonic 620w M12 II EVO
Cooling
Cooler Master 212 Evo
Case
Corsair 450D
Operating System
Windows 10
Monitor
Nixeus EDG27
Other
I have pretty lights.
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post #8 of 43 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019, 03:47 AM
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I'm not sure how much a 2700X would gain under water since they tend to hit a voltage wall before temps become an issue. A high end air cooler like Noctua would work well. The GPU would work well underwater. If that is a custom board card finding a waterblock could be tricky. Personally after going to water I would only use air on a stock-clocked computer. A custom loop allows me to extract all the OC potential of my components in near silence

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(11 items)
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(14 items)
CPU
9900K
Motherboard
EVGA Z390 Dark
GPU
Titan RTX 2085/7256
RAM
16gb Trident Z DDR4-4133 19-19-19-39 1.35V
Hard Drive
OCZ Vertex 4 256GB
Power Supply
EVGA 1300 G2
Cooling
HWLabs Nemesis 360GTX
Cooling
EK Vardar 120ER 2200rpm
Case
Dimastech Test Bench
Monitor
AOC Agon AG251FZ 240Hz
Audio
Built-in Monitor Speakers (3 watt)
CPU
Intel Core i9-7980XE @ 4.3 GHz 1.10v
Motherboard
Asus Rampage VI Apex
GPU
Gigabyte Aorus Waterforce WB 1080 Ti SLI 2037/6318 1.09V
RAM
G.Skill Trident Z 32GB (4x8GB) DDR4-3200 CL14
Hard Drive
Samsung 960 Evo 1TB
Power Supply
EVGA 1600 T2
Cooling
HWLabs Nemesis GTR 420+280 Rads
Cooling
(7) Noctua NF-A14 iPPC-3000 PWM Fans
Cooling
EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 RGB PWM
Case
LD Cooling PC-V7 280/420
Operating System
Windows 10 LTSB
Operating System
Linux Mint 19.1
Monitor
NEC PA271W 2560x1440
Keyboard
Razer Blackwidow Chroma V2
CPU
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RAM
48 GB Samsung DDR3-1066
Hard Drive
120 GB Samsung 750 Evo SSD
Hard Drive
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Hard Drive
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Power Supply
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1U Rackmount
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post #9 of 43 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019, 04:08 AM - Thread Starter
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White Owl, what CPU and GPU temperature parameters should I be seeking to stay within to ensure the system runs OK?

System Build
Windows 10 Pro, Phanteks Evolv X, Gigabyte X470 Gaming 7 WIFI, Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Xtreme 11GB, AMD Ryzen 7 2700X, G.Skill 32GB F4-3600C17D-32GTZR DDR4 Trident Z RGB, 2 x 1TB Samsung 970 Pro Series M.2 2280 NVMe SSD in Raid 0, 2 x 12TB Seagate IronWolf Pro NAS HDD's in Raid 0, StarTech 2-Port PCI Express SATA 6 Gbps eSATA Controller Card, 3 x 140mm Phanteks LED (front intake), 1 x 140mm NF-A14 FLX (rear exhaust) & and 3 x 120mm NF-S12A FLX (top exhaust) Noctura fans.
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post #10 of 43 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019, 04:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Hydroplane, I believe Phanteks makes a water block for my GPU - http://www.phanteks.com/PH-GB1080TiGB2.html

System Build
Windows 10 Pro, Phanteks Evolv X, Gigabyte X470 Gaming 7 WIFI, Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Xtreme 11GB, AMD Ryzen 7 2700X, G.Skill 32GB F4-3600C17D-32GTZR DDR4 Trident Z RGB, 2 x 1TB Samsung 970 Pro Series M.2 2280 NVMe SSD in Raid 0, 2 x 12TB Seagate IronWolf Pro NAS HDD's in Raid 0, StarTech 2-Port PCI Express SATA 6 Gbps eSATA Controller Card, 3 x 140mm Phanteks LED (front intake), 1 x 140mm NF-A14 FLX (rear exhaust) & and 3 x 120mm NF-S12A FLX (top exhaust) Noctura fans.
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