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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-20-2019, 03:02 AM - Thread Starter
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bubble trap/tank water level lowering

hi,
recentrly i've changed my rad to an other one identical,is a big big one so it take i guess days before all air bubbles leave the loop,
anyway i'm wondering if i have invisible leaks because everyday i just have to add some water,but inspecting the loop i don't see any obvious water dropping or leaking,
all seems fine..water disappearing apart.
what could it be?
how normally your water level go down?
thank you.

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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-22-2019, 04:35 AM
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If you've rotated your case every which way to get the largest bubbles out your res level shouldn't be falling all that quickly. You can try the old paper towel test of tightly wrapping each fitting in a sheet and let the loop running for several hours. If any moisture is leaking out the towels will change texture/stain/stay moist instead of the moisture just evaporating.

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-22-2019, 06:47 AM
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Speaking from my own experience and I have a big dual loops it takes me about 2-3 months to completely bleed it, yes it can take that long depending on type of your rads, blocks and loops complexity. Most likely you have more bubbles in the rad then you think and slowly the air finds its way out leaving your fluid level lower. Give another week or so to bleed then you should have better idea
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-22-2019, 06:50 AM
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normal water drop, with clear soft tubing, about 1" every 3 months at the worst. my personal rig with norprene tubing has a 1/2" drop every year. so with this information, if the system is between these two amounts, than it is acting normally.

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-22-2019, 07:03 AM
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Hi,
What type of fluid exactly ?

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-23-2019, 09:59 AM - Thread Starter
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hi all an ty for replies.
liquid is simply distilled water with just a coffe cup of CITROSIL in it(liquid total volume is like 3 liters),
rad is a giant full copper car rad(check my signature),so probably it is the source of all this air,
anyway problem seems to be reduced a lot,BUT,everytime i shutdown pc and turn it on say the morning after i see some bubble moving immidiately into the bubble trap,
so i start supposing a vacuum leak somewhere,could try to tighten everything a bit more,but it's a pain in the ass considering i should remove all tubing,tighten all fittings in place,
reset tubing in place and retightening compression fitting,plus all over again the air bubble saga. :/ pffffffff

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-23-2019, 11:03 AM
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I don't think its a ghost leak, I think you're just experiencing what many of us experience - an incredibly long period of time before all air is truly out of the system.

The bigger the beast, the harder it is to get all that air out. Also, unless you pump speeds are way low some air gets pulled back into the system each time air dumps into the reservoir.

I'm like 3 weeks out from my last drain & I'm still shaking bubbles out daily.

also - I'd highly recommend adding some anti-corrosion properties to your water. I see what you're using is anti-biotic, but at what cost i wonder? I'd monitor Ph, and 100% get anti-corrosion in there.

I've also noticed over the years that letting the system/pump sit off for a few minutes here & there helps get some of those pesky bubbles knocked free.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-23-2019, 12:04 PM
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Yeah, big rad will take some time to bleed but as a precaution use some paper towels to test for leaks.

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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-23-2019, 12:11 PM
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yes, 100% - always hotwire your power supply & leak test before anything else.

I've gotta weird pressure issue where my system likes to suck in air from the BP Bleed valve on my top radiator (that returns to reservoir) however, it only happens when there's air in the system to cause said vacuum/pressure in the first place.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-24-2019, 01:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote: Originally Posted by skupples View Post
I don't think its a ghost leak, I think you're just experiencing what many of us experience - an incredibly long period of time before all air is truly out of the system.

The bigger the beast, the harder it is to get all that air out. Also, unless you pump speeds are way low some air gets pulled back into the system each time air dumps into the reservoir.

I'm like 3 weeks out from my last drain & I'm still shaking bubbles out daily.

also - I'd highly recommend adding some anti-corrosion properties to your water. I see what you're using is anti-biotic, but at what cost i wonder? I'd monitor Ph, and 100% get anti-corrosion in there.

I've also noticed over the years that letting the system/pump sit off for a few minutes here & there helps get some of those pesky bubbles knocked free.
yes,i've just found(yesterday)that CITROSIL is pratically chlorure benzalkonium and is really recommended to NOT use it together with nickel plate things in a loop,and this explain corrosion i've noticed from last loop maintenance.
so at least i've decidec to switch to blu car radiator liquid based on ethylene glycol,we'll see.

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