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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 12:09 PM - Thread Starter
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lga 1155 copper water block?

i have my faithful ol z77 sabertooth with a 3770k in it.

i recently went from a custom loop using the pump/block from a corsair h100 and a 360mm cooper/brass rad, to a cheap chinese water block and seperate pump on the same rad.

suffice to say this new block sucks balls compared to the h100 one as it hasnt got "micro fins"

im looking for the best solid copper block for my setup.

ebay seems a bit sccarce and i guesss this is due to the age of my mobo/cpu

can anyone drop me some ebay links for abetter compatible block please

thanks in advance
jim
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 01:04 PM
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I don’t have an answer to your question, but I’m interested in hearing about your h100 conversion. I’d like to do something similar to an h80i and put a bigger rad on it but not sure about sizing of the hoses and such


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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 01:08 PM
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Pretty much any block that's Intel compatible will work on 1155. LGA-1150/1151/1155/1156 all use the same mount.

A good solid copper block:

https://www.aquatuning.us/water-cool...or-pure-copper

Edit* found this cheap copper block. No idea if it's any good, but most Bykski stuff seems decent. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bykski-2018...MAAOSwP8db9~MG

If you look for used stuff, should be able to find a bunch of EK Supremacy Evo's. Although most of them probably won't be the full copper versions. That was a really popular block that they just recently discontinued.

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Last edited by Fluxmaven; 05-15-2019 at 01:33 PM.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 10:14 AM - Thread Starter
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thanks for the info......seems rather pricey....i might just try and turn my h100 block "passive" and use that. the fins inside it were tiny in comparison to my cheapy chinese one.

in response to rictober......

make sure you buy a brass/copper cored radiator (DO NOT USE AN ALUMINiUM RAD!!!!).....you do not want any galvanic reactions to occur.....i made this mistake and it was not pretty.

also make sure your fittings arnt other metals also.

i use sergical silicon tubing on barbed fittings.... i think it was 8mm ID (you want it to be tight). make sure your route doesn't have too many tight bends as the tubing will kink. if you need to do a tight bend, add a 90degree barbed fitting.

a bonus of the squidgeyness of the tube allows you to sqeeze/pump bubbles out of your loop with ease.
bad side is silicon tubing is slightly porous so some fluid will leave through it over time....but this is minimal. maybe 10ml every 6months.

i would also say add a drain tap/plug as this will make changing the fluid super easy in the future.

here a few pics of the mess i made....its not pretty.






with the crap block it performs slightly worse than an old corsair h100 on the same 360mm rad. despite the pump being much higher flow rate.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-20-2019, 05:29 AM
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Buy Watercool Heatkiller IV Pro Black Copper.
Block is Nickel Plated Copper in Silver and Black color.
For me is that nicest CPU block now with Heatkiller IV Pro Nickel

http://shop.watercool.de/epages/Wate...Products/18034

http://shop.watercool.de/epages/Wate...Products/18001

Because one of these will be CPU block for my next platform, decision will be hard.
First have bigger chance.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-20-2019, 09:07 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by jimmyhackers View Post
thanks for the info......seems rather pricey....i might just try and turn my h100 block "passive" and use that. the fins inside it were tiny in comparison to my cheapy chinese one.



in response to rictober......



make sure you buy a brass/copper cored radiator (DO NOT USE AN ALUMINiUM RAD!!!!).....you do not want any galvanic reactions to occur.....i made this mistake and it was not pretty.



also make sure your fittings arnt other metals also.



i use sergical silicon tubing on barbed fittings.... i think it was 8mm ID (you want it to be tight). make sure your route doesn't have too many tight bends as the tubing will kink. if you need to do a tight bend, add a 90degree barbed fitting.



a bonus of the squidgeyness of the tube allows you to sqeeze/pump bubbles out of your loop with ease.

bad side is silicon tubing is slightly porous so some fluid will leave through it over time....but this is minimal. maybe 10ml every 6months.



i would also say add a drain tap/plug as this will make changing the fluid super easy in the future.



here a few pics of the mess i made....its not pretty.













with the crap block it performs slightly worse than an old corsair h100 on the same 360mm rad. despite the pump being much higher flow rate.


That’s awesome. I love hacking stuff together like that. Thanks for the info about metals not to use, I never would have thought of that.


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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-21-2019, 06:35 AM
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Question:

Black Ice Extrem 120mm from...2005 +-...is copper or other metal?
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-21-2019, 08:09 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Mordorr View Post
Question:

Black Ice Extrem 120mm from...2005 +-...is copper or other metal?
As far as I know, all hardware labs radiators are copper core. If you are unsure, look inside one of the ports, it will be pretty obvious if it's aluminum.

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-21-2019, 12:04 PM
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Thank you my friend. Is the extreme model...i found later.

Seems copper....just great!
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-24-2019, 01:13 PM - Thread Starter
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TURNS OUT IM A DINGLE!!!

i left the clear protective film on the waterblock surface......it was inbetween the waterblock and my cpu :S

dropped about 25 degrees C due to that.....


water block is fine everything is dandy again.
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