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post #31 of 39 (permalink) Old 08-11-2019, 08:50 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Mayhem View Post
Yes that's the issue. They need to separate them out.

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post #32 of 39 (permalink) Old 08-11-2019, 09:31 AM
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I will say EkJake has always provided good customer support. Seems like caselabs hired and trained good employees.
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post #33 of 39 (permalink) Old 08-12-2019, 05:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote: Originally Posted by ThrashZone View Post
Hi,
If you think about it the longer screws are for the back plate obviously
Not everyone buys the back plate though
Technically the screws for the back plate should be included in the back plate package would probably straighten out that confusion.

Extra screws are never a bad thing
Just to reiterate, i used 7 screws to hold block onto the GPU, i then used the other 6 screws for the backplate( which came in backplate packaging) to adhere the backplate to the waterblock and have 100% contact all round!
The problem with EK atm is they tell you in the online manual you can crack your die via using the wrong screws, yet have no mentions of what screw is what. It's appaling but atleast they are listening to their customers. I'm sure they are dealing with wayyy to many angry customers atm.
It's not even the workers fault it's upper management and the world economy atm. It's all SAVE SAVE SAVE. I get it, but don't blow your only revenue out the door.

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post #34 of 39 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 10:08 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Section31 View Post
I will say EkJake has always provided good customer support. Seems like caselabs hired and trained good employees.
Fake it til you make it! I, uh, mean yeah! They trained me well!


Quote: Originally Posted by Mayhem View Post
Its a simple fix, number your bags of screws and add the numbers to the manuals. Nothing more.
Quote: Originally Posted by Socks keep you warm View Post
I think everything is covered! If you guys can just make a way to identify screws that's about all it is. But now after this i have gone out of my way to learn how to read screw sizing lol.
I'm glad you guys are doing something about it, it is restoring faith! Thanks EK Jake!
Identifying and separating the screws both in the manual and packaging was passed along in my suggestions this week. We're actively watching for feedback and doing our best to improve the experience in all ways for everyone. It may take time, but we're making progress.


Quote: Originally Posted by Socks keep you warm View Post
Just to reiterate, i used 7 screws to hold block onto the GPU, i then used the other 6 screws for the backplate( which came in backplate packaging) to adhere the backplate to the waterblock and have 100% contact all round!
The problem with EK atm is they tell you in the online manual you can crack your die via using the wrong screws, yet have no mentions of what screw is what. It's appaling but atleast they are listening to their customers. I'm sure they are dealing with wayyy to many angry customers atm.
It's not even the workers fault it's upper management and the world economy atm. It's all SAVE SAVE SAVE. I get it, but don't blow your only revenue out the door.
It's actually not even that so much as misunderstanding what makes it the easiest on users. Essentially, things are oversimplified in some aspects. The manuals aren't detailed enough and the packaging just includes everything. So you can't not have what you need and you shouldn't have any troubles with the manual because it's simple and easy to follow, right? That's great if you've done it a few times and know what you need, but it can lead to confusion for anyone new to watercooling and/or EK products. So it's realigning EK's understanding with what helps out everyone in the community the most without going overboard to where everything is TOO technical.

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post #35 of 39 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 10:55 PM
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Can you post a pic of the different screws side by side? When I go open loop I'll def run it outside the case first. User error happens








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post #36 of 39 (permalink) Old 08-19-2019, 03:14 AM
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Watercooling isn't for everyone. Identifying the right screws is quite easy with the size listed. You just need a cheap pair of calipers or even a ruler. An M2.5x5 will be 2.5mm wide on the threads and 5mm long.

Water cooling always has risks but in my experience a little bit of water exposure is not a guarantee of circuit board death. I have had several inadvertent spills caused by me being lazy and doing Linus style loop changes without draining. I have yet to have anything die because of it. A few times there was some artifacting so I just made a better and more thorough go of drying and it all came good.
Don't be dumb and lazy like me and take the time to ensure all is good before adding water. Air leak testing is worth its low expense several times over.

Still confused how a standoff can cause leaking though seeing as they don't touch the coolant.

I haven't been exposed to the new instructions yet so I can't comment on that though outsourcing doesn't sound like the best of ideas.

Last edited by Ashcroft; 08-19-2019 at 03:19 AM.
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post #37 of 39 (permalink) Old 08-19-2019, 09:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote: Originally Posted by Ashcroft View Post
Watercooling isn't for everyone. Identifying the right screws is quite easy with the size listed. You just need a cheap pair of calipers or even a ruler. An M2.5x5 will be 2.5mm wide on the threads and 5mm long.

Water cooling always has risks but in my experience a little bit of water exposure is not a guarantee of circuit board death. I have had several inadvertent spills caused by me being lazy and doing Linus style loop changes without draining. I have yet to have anything die because of it. A few times there was some artifacting so I just made a better and more thorough go of drying and it all came good.
Don't be dumb and lazy like me and take the time to ensure all is good before adding water. Air leak testing is worth its low expense several times over.

Still confused how a standoff can cause leaking though seeing as they don't touch the coolant.

I haven't been exposed to the new instructions yet so I can't comment on that though outsourcing doesn't sound like the best of ideas.
The standoffs go into the actual path of the water. I can't see any other way as to where the water came from as that is what was loose on the block.
I have been watercooling for close to 10 years and this is the 1st time i have ever sprung a leak.
EDIT: It's also nothing about the screw sizes, they used to have an actual screw list, if you look at my original post which you obviously haven't, you will see the difference in manuals.

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post #38 of 39 (permalink) Old 08-20-2019, 01:07 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Socks keep you warm View Post
The standoffs go into the actual path of the water. I can't see any other way as to where the water came from as that is what was loose on the block.
I have been watercooling for close to 10 years and this is the 1st time i have ever sprung a leak.
EDIT: It's also nothing about the screw sizes, they used to have an actual screw list, if you look at my original post which you obviously haven't, you will see the difference in manuals.
Well that is very odd. I have never seen a single GPU block from any manufacturer that has holes drilled in the metal through to the water path. The blocks don't look to have holes in them and frankly it would be pretty stupid for them to have holes in them.
If there really is a hole drilled in the block then it would have to be a manufacturing error. Claiming its a non warrantable to have holes drilled in the block without even talking to EK about it seems odd for someone who has your level of experience.
I'm sure the thought of a damaged card is very stressful but getting hysterical won't help.

Did they just update the manuals because it seems like they tell you the screws to use just like the older manuals.

The manufacturers try to make things like water blocks seem like regular consumer products but they really are not. They are enthusiast modification tools that require some know how. There is a reason you can buy cards that already have blocks attached after all.
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post #39 of 39 (permalink) Old 08-20-2019, 01:15 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Ashcroft View Post
Well that is very odd. I have never seen a single GPU block from any manufacturer that has holes drilled in the metal through to the water path. The blocks don't look to have holes in them and frankly it would be pretty stupid for them to have holes in them.
If there really is a hole drilled in the block then it would have to be a manufacturing error. Claiming its a non warrantable to have holes drilled in the block without even talking to EK about it seems odd for someone who has your level of experience.
I'm sure the thought of a damaged card is very stressful but getting hysterical won't help.

Did they just update the manuals because it seems like they tell you the screws to use just like the older manuals.

The manufacturers try to make things like water blocks seem like regular consumer products but they really are not. They are enthusiast modification tools that require some know how. There is a reason you can buy cards that already have blocks attached after all.
I agree here.
But maybe TS can make a picture of the coldplate where you can see the holes between the waterchannels.

But as far as I can see on this picture, I don't see any spots where there are holes in the waterchannels: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-vector-...b-nickel-plexi

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