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Help? EKWB/ Lian Li Distro Plate

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post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-04-2020, 04:08 PM
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if that connector on your MB isn't working, then you either need to turn it on or there is something wrong with your board. It could just be that connector may be defective, but odds are good there may be something more. So I would prove out connectors, etc. before putting it all together. If you look in the bios there should also be a control setting for it as well. It may be defaulted at a very low speed or even off until you set it. Anyway, do yourself a favor and buy a cheap PSU, doesn't have to be high wattage. Pickup the EK connector that you can plug your pump to the extra psu into. You want zero power to any components in case of a leak. Fill your res and turn the pump on, then cycle it off almost immediately. Believe me, it'll push that little bit of coolant seriously fast. Keep topping the rest until your system is full. Cap everything off and let it run for a bit to make sure there are no leaks under pressure. Even if you pressure checked it before filling, there is always the chance you could still have a minor leak. Take your time or it could cost you. We've all seen videos of what can happen.
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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-04-2020, 07:18 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Soulpatch View Post
if that connector on your MB isn't working, then you either need to turn it on or there is something wrong with your board. It could just be that connector may be defective, but odds are good there may be something more. So I would prove out connectors, etc. before putting it all together. If you look in the bios there should also be a control setting for it as well. It may be defaulted at a very low speed or even off until you set it. Anyway, do yourself a favor and buy a cheap PSU, doesn't have to be high wattage. Pickup the EK connector that you can plug your pump to the extra psu into. You want zero power to any components in case of a leak. Fill your res and turn the pump on, then cycle it off almost immediately. Believe me, it'll push that little bit of coolant seriously fast. Keep topping the rest until your system is full. Cap everything off and let it run for a bit to make sure there are no leaks under pressure. Even if you pressure checked it before filling, there is always the chance you could still have a minor leak. Take your time or it could cost you. We've all seen videos of what can happen.
Sounds like OP already did that if you read last post. They tried a bunch of different adapters.
From everything they're saying it sounds like it was just a bad pump.

I don't know what the Corsair pump is, but hopefully its a D5 variant.

Did you have to scrap the whole Distro plate OP?

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post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-05-2020, 06:20 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote: Originally Posted by hanzy View Post
Sounds like OP already did that if you read last post. They tried a bunch of different adapters.
From everything they're saying it sounds like it was just a bad pump.

I don't know what the Corsair pump is, but hopefully its a D5 variant.

Did you have to scrap the whole Distro plate OP?
So After trying two different EKWB Distro Plate G1's I ended up just switching to the Corsair XD5 pump. When turning it on, the pump turned on but very weak when using the corsair RM750x. So I decided to buy a new PowersupplySeasonic Focus GX-750. Plugged it in and the same issue. I decided to move the case around to maybe let some loose air and see if the motor would start spinning and after about a minute, the pump kicked in full gear.

Do pumps usually take time to power to 100%?
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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-05-2020, 06:29 AM
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Hi,
If the D5 is powered by sata or molex they run as soon as power hits the pump but for filling you'd never connect the pwm wire to the board seeing it would hamper with full speed operation of the pump.

Connecting the pwm cable to the board passes the operation to the mother board bios and it operates the pump via temperature.

EK's system is flawed for filling the loop basically
You'd have to get a pwm fan splitter cable that is powered by sata or molex so it cranks the power to the pwm cable to full blast for filling it would also have a pwm connection to eventually connect to a fan port on the board.

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post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-05-2020, 06:54 AM
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Hi,
Did you use one of these to trick the psu to give power to the molex ?

Not good to fill a loop while the board is also powered on
If you have a leak you'd like fry the board if any water gets on it
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post #16 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-05-2020, 09:52 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by abel palustre View Post
So After trying two different EKWB Distro Plate G1's I ended up just switching to the Corsair XD5 pump. When turning it on, the pump turned on but very weak when using the corsair RM750x. So I decided to buy a new PowersupplySeasonic Focus GX-750. Plugged it in and the same issue. I decided to move the case around to maybe let some loose air and see if the motor would start spinning and after about a minute, the pump kicked in full gear.

Do pumps usually take time to power to 100%?
Depends on how the PWM is set up. Sometimes no PWM signal means the pump will run at 100%. Most of the D5's I have used run at 100% duty cycle when no PWM signal is present.
Either way once the system is filled, leaked tested, bled you should use the BIOS/Motherboard software app to setup a profile for the PWM on the pump based on temp.
There are more elaborate solutions to regulate pump RPM based on water temp etc... but setting the PWM "curve" via motherboard will be good enough.

Keep in mind, even at full tilt ~4700RPM the D5 pumps are pretty quiet.

But like thrash said, when filling, bleeding, leak testing you ONLY want the pump to have power via Molex/SATA whatever kind it is. The rest of the system needs to be POWERED OFF. Do yourself a favor for future loop maintenance and all that and buy a cheap PSU if you don't have a spare to JUST run the pump. Either make your own jumper or buy one.

@thrash , how is EK's D5 pump design flawed? No PWM signal is 100% duty cycle. Been this way with almost any D5 PWM I have owned whether its EK or not.

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Last edited by hanzy; 02-05-2020 at 09:58 AM.
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post #17 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-05-2020, 06:10 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by hanzy View Post

@thrash , how is EK's D5 pump design flawed? No PWM signal is 100% duty cycle. Been this way with almost any D5 PWM I have owned whether its EK or not.
Hi,
The ek pump pulls power off the pwm wiring from the mother board

Meaning the entire board needs to be powered on to just fill the loop because that is the only way the board gives power or a pwm signal.

From a leak finding/ testing perspective that is silly seeing if you have a leak you can very well fry your board if it gets wet.

The jumper I posted fakes the power supply in powering sata and molex power lines not anything else
It only works if the pump is powered by sata and or molex though.

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post #18 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-05-2020, 09:52 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by ThrashZone View Post
Hi,
The ek pump pulls power off the pwm wiring from the mother board

Meaning the entire board needs to be powered on to just fill the loop because that is the only way the board gives power or a pwm signal.

From a leak finding/ testing perspective that is silly seeing if you have a leak you can very well fry your board if it gets wet.

The jumper I posted fakes the power supply in powering sata and molex power lines not anything else
It only works if the pump is powered by sata and or molex though.
A DDC pump, yeah. We're talking D5's though right? You have a D5 that doesn't have a molex or SATA cable for power/ground?
My last four builds have used EK D5 pumps. Regular PWM D5, two D5 PWM with their top, dual D5 PWM, and the D5 PWM that came installed in my "FLT Kinetic" combo Their dual top D5 setup was excellent btw. Anyways, every single one of their D5 pumps ran without the PWM header plugged in, only the molex connector and a spare PSU jumped over.

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post #19 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-05-2020, 10:08 PM
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I have the same Distro plate. The Pump plugs directly into a 4 pin fan header. I used the EK leak tester to pressurize the system and check for leaks. After that just fill up the distroplate and turn on the computer leaving the CPU power cables disconnected. The distroplate will fill the CPU tubing within a few seconds, you wont burn anything up.
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post #20 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-12-2020, 10:17 PM
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