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Problems with custom loop temperatures in Lian Li O11 Dynamic

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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-06-2020, 03:37 AM - Thread Starter
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Problems with custom loop temperatures in Lian Li O11 Dynamic

After spending a lot of time, money and effort I can't seem to get the results I was expecting.

The rig is as follows:
- Ryzen 7 1700 @ 3.8Ghz with Barrow block
- R9 290X stock with EK Acetal + Nickel block

- 2x360mm 45mm thick Barrow radiator
- 2x Syscooling SC-P67F pump (in series) from Aliexpress
- Barrow flow meter
- Arctic P12 fan x9
- Aquacomputer Quadro
- case air temperature sensor and water temperature sensor

I'll be removing one of the pumps and the flow meter today as it's making some high pitched noise. Not sure if it was a dud from the beginning or it got damaged or it doesn't like being on its side.

Anyway, I started with a Magicool G2 360mm side intake, GTS240 Xflow top exhaust (+ 1 fan exhaust right stop the side radiator), Magicool 240mm Xflow bottom intake and everything driven off the motherboard. The temperatures were ok, leveling off around 68C on the CPU and 50C on the GPU in OCCT Power with roughly 22C ambient in room.

I got the 2nd pump, the 2 Barrow radiators and the Quadro and got the PC assembled 2 days ago. So I ended up with 360x45 on top exhaust, 360x27 in side intake, 360x45 on bottom intake. Loop order: RES -> PUMP -> SIDE INTAKE RAD ->BOTTOM INTAKE RADIATOR -> GPU BLOCK -> CPU BLOCK -> PUMP ->TOP EXHAUST RAD -> RES The problem was, with everything driven off the Quadro based on water temperature I got something of a feedback loop. It basically looked like my top radiator was HEATING UP the water causing the next 2 radiators to pump warmer and warmer air into the case which in turn caused the water temp to rise in turn. The case air to water delta was staying at around 2-3C.



Yesterday I decided to pull the bottom rad and replace it with just 3x fan intake. New loop is RES -> PUMP -> GPU BLOCK -> CPU BLOCK -> TOP 360x45 EXHAUST -> PUMP -> SIDE 360x45 EXHAUST -> RES. The problem is, I still have a problem with temperatures which keep on climbing. The delta is much larger, around 12-14C after a while but case temperature slowly creeps up under load which makes the water temp go up, obviously. Removing the side panel after 15 mins of load caused the water temp to drop by 4C within a minute or 2 with corresponding drop in CPU and GPU temp.

What I'm planning today is flip the radiators to intake and bottom fans to exhaust while removing the noisy pump. I sure hope it helps...

Anyone with similar experiences? Would there be much of a difference with the radiator in the bottom and top fans exhaust?
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-06-2020, 07:50 AM
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Hi,
Picture might be nice to see

Not sure why both rads are exhaust seeing they usually preform better as intake.

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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-06-2020, 08:09 AM
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Agreed with Threash on the rads.

Also why does the "new" loop still need two pumps?

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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-06-2020, 08:25 AM
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I'd try bottom and front intake rads and remove the top rad. So both rads get cool air and the hot air is exhausted through the top.

I experienced the same in my define R6. I had a front intake rad and a top exhaust rad. And temperatures were not a lot better than with a single rad.
Then I switched to dual intake radiators and a single fan in the rear as exhaust and now my temps stabilise after 10-15min and it's cooler than before. I went from a 14°C to a 8°C delta.

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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-06-2020, 09:00 AM
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Poor flow rate could be an issue. Don't cheap out on pumps.

There are a number of other radiator issues that can also degrade efficiency.

-1st, the radiators are not perfect "intake" radiators unless they are air tight to the intake vents. The rule of path of least resistance dictates that a majority of the air going through your radiators (both intake and exhaust) will be recirculated.
*To fix this, use tape to seal off the sides and edges so only air is only drawing from the outside. Ugly but works.
*Its hard to get well balanced air flow through this case unfortunately...

-2nd, going to the first point, the "intake" grills on your case, not to mince words, suck. Not much air flow. This makes point #1 more of an issue.
*To fix this, (extreme but I personally prefer function over form), take it to a local metal shop and have them laser cut out the "vents" on the side, top, bottom and use magnetic filters to cover: https://www.amazon.com/DEMCiflex-Fil...1003990&sr=8-5
*Or brute force it with loud fans (and tape as mentioned above).
*Or remove dust filters.

-3rd, yes, the top radiator will be using hotter than ambient air which will decrease efficiency.
*Not sure how to fix this. Usually using the rear 120/140mm fan as an intake helps but this case doesn't have one

Asus Prime Z370, Intel 8700k @5.0Ghz, Nvidia GTX 1080 Ti, 16GB @3400 CL14, Watercooling: x2 MCP355 pumps, x1 280 on front of case, x1 360 on top of case, x1 140 on back of case, x1 240 on bottom of case
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-06-2020, 11:06 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote: Originally Posted by ThrashZone View Post
Hi,
Picture might be nice to see

Not sure why both rads are exhaust seeing they usually preform better as intake.
Added photos.

Why exhaust? I figured I could have low case temps and still good enough water temperatures with radiators exhausting but it does seem like a lot of air is recirculating back into the case anyway.

Quote: Originally Posted by GraphicsWhore
Also why does the "new" loop still need two pumps?
It doesn't but I bought a spare just in case and figured I could put it in the loop for added performance and redundancy rather than have it sitting in a box.

Quote: Originally Posted by broodro0ster
I'd try bottom and front intake rads and remove the top rad. So both rads get cool air and the hot air is exhausted through the top.
Currently there's 2 rads, top and side. I'd like to keep the current rad placement for aesthetic and maintenance reasons - easy to drain through the GPU block and I have easy access to all motherboard components.

Quote: Originally Posted by StAndrew
Poor flow rate could be an issue. Don't cheap out on pumps.

There are a number of other radiator issues that can also degrade efficiency.

-1st, the radiators are not perfect "intake" radiators unless they are air tight to the intake vents. The rule of path of least resistance dictates that a majority of the air going through your radiators (both intake and exhaust) will be recirculated.
*To fix this, use tape to seal off the sides and edges so only air is only drawing from the outside. Ugly but works.
*Its hard to get well balanced air flow through this case unfortunately...

-2nd, going to the first point, the "intake" grills on your case, not to mince words, suck. Not much air flow. This makes point #1 more of an issue.
*To fix this, (extreme but I personally prefer function over form), take it to a local metal shop and have them laser cut out the "vents" on the side, top, bottom and use magnetic filters to cover: https://www.amazon.com/DEMCiflex-Fil...1003990&sr=8-5
*Or brute force it with loud fans (and tape as mentioned above).
*Or remove dust filters.

-3rd, yes, the top radiator will be using hotter than ambient air which will decrease efficiency.
*Not sure how to fix this. Usually using the rear 120/140mm fan as an intake helps but this case doesn't have one
While this pump isn't well known it's surprisingly capable for the laughable price it has. It actually might be close to it's advertised spec of 350-400l/h and 3,5m of head. In the "original" loop with 1 pump and 2x240mm xflow + 360mm rad it had sufficient flow at around 70% max output. Increasing speed beyond that barely affected component temperature (less than 1C difference going from 70 to 100%). Now with 2 pumps at 37% the Barrow flow meter is reading 300RPM (I think it's offset by 90 or so to get the real flow?)

Still, the new, 2nd pump is making a rhytmical chirping sound and is overall louder 😕. Maybe it was faulty from the beginning. Could it get damaged from bleeding the system (it wasn't powered on before the system was filled but obviously a lot of air was pushed through it by the first pump before water reached it). Another issue is that it's run on it's side which I haven't tried with the other pump.

I didn't think the vents would be this bad on this case. I don't think I'll be cutting it apart but I might try some tape.

Oh, and the exhaust vents (with rads) were running without dust filters in place but it obviously didn't help enough.


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Last edited by Bachu; 02-06-2020 at 11:11 AM.
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-06-2020, 12:53 PM
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Hmm, looks like your radiators are flush against the grills, so maybe no tape needed... I still think those grills are very restrictive.

Try running both radiators as intake on the side and bottom with three top exhaust fans.

Asus Prime Z370, Intel 8700k @5.0Ghz, Nvidia GTX 1080 Ti, 16GB @3400 CL14, Watercooling: x2 MCP355 pumps, x1 280 on front of case, x1 360 on top of case, x1 140 on back of case, x1 240 on bottom of case
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-06-2020, 02:48 PM - Thread Starter
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There's probably about 0,5cm distance between rad and outside grill. I have flipped the fans around for now - radiators top and side as intake and bottom fans exhaust (without dust filter). As for the noisy 2nd pump, I pulled it apart and under the rotor there was a metal washer which had a small imperfection in one spot. I swapped it out for a plastic one and changed the pump orientation from vertical to horizontal (with a 90 degree fitting). Looks like one or both helped and it's running the same as pump nr 1 now.

Now, time to test temperatures!
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-06-2020, 04:28 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Bachu View Post
There's probably about 0,5cm distance between rad and outside grill. I have flipped the fans around for now - radiators top and side as intake and bottom fans exhaust (without dust filter). As for the noisy 2nd pump, I pulled it apart and under the rotor there was a metal washer which had a small imperfection in one spot. I swapped it out for a plastic one and changed the pump orientation from vertical to horizontal (with a 90 degree fitting). Looks like one or both helped and it's running the same as pump nr 1 now.

Now, time to test temperatures!
That might work for now but when you have the time, running a top exhaust work be preferred.

Asus Prime Z370, Intel 8700k @5.0Ghz, Nvidia GTX 1080 Ti, 16GB @3400 CL14, Watercooling: x2 MCP355 pumps, x1 280 on front of case, x1 360 on top of case, x1 140 on back of case, x1 240 on bottom of case
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-06-2020, 04:39 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by GraphicsWhore View Post
Agreed with Threash on the rads.

Also why does the "new" loop still need two pumps?
loops always need two pumps, imo. unless they're SFF builds. sustain higher flow rates at much lower noise levels, and also drastically reduces the chances of a pressure pop from a pump dying in the middle of the night, thus boiling your loop & causing something to leak.

here's another bit of advice, try to remove any hard 90s directly off of the pump. this typically helps flow quite a bit. Instead, i recommend the snake 90s from BP, or just two 45s.

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