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post #21 of 56 (permalink) Old 03-16-2020, 11:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Well, I got mildly impatient and bought everything on the list except fans. So what do people recommend for radiator fans for an SP2 rad? Triple fan, push (no pull). Lower FPI but 60mm thick. I want to keep the system quiet while having high overclocking potential.

I was thinking Chromax NF-F12 PWM or Corsair ML120 Pro w/ red LED or aRGB. I'm not sure how loud the ML120 get though.

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post #22 of 56 (permalink) Old 03-17-2020, 12:49 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by CrazyDiamond View Post
Well, I got mildly impatient and bought everything on the list except fans. So what do people recommend for radiator fans for an SP2 rad? Triple fan, push (no pull). Lower FPI but 60mm thick. I want to keep the system quiet while having high overclocking potential.

I was thinking Chromax NF-F12 PWM or Corsair ML120 Pro w/ red LED or aRGB. I'm not sure how loud the ML120 get though.
Hey Crazy, I would assume you tested your system while on air? If not, do so first.

About the RAD, i run hot water using tap for a few minutes. Now, you have to use gloves cos the thing really gets hot depending on your hot water system. You got to get rid of every tiny bit of iron filings.

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post #23 of 56 (permalink) Old 03-17-2020, 01:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote: Originally Posted by rdr09 View Post
Hey Crazy, I would assume you tested your system while on air? If not, do so first.

About the RAD, i run hot water using tap for a few minutes. Now, you have to use gloves cos the thing really gets hot depending on your hot water system. You got to get rid of every tiny bit of iron filings.
Thanks for the idea; hooking it up to the tap.

I've tested it thermally on air, all components work properly, but it's currently using a sandy bridge stock cooler and the cooler on the Strix is complete garbage. Suffers from the issue detailed here: https://rog.asus.com/articles/gaming...raphics-cards/

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post #24 of 56 (permalink) Old 03-17-2020, 01:30 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by CrazyDiamond View Post
Thanks for the idea; hooking it up to the tap.

I've tested it thermally on air, all components work properly, but it's currently using a sandy bridge stock cooler and the cooler on the Strix is complete garbage. Suffers from the issue detailed here: https://rog.asus.com/articles/gaming...raphics-cards/
I see. Yah, like i said, get the water really at the highest warm setting, then run it a for like 5-10 minutes. Keep some water inside, plug both fittings and shake it a few. Run the water again through but reverse the flow, then drain. Fill it with distilled water and shake it and drain. Do the last step a few times.

I normally hook up everything together outside the case to test the pump and all the other components before installing. It would be advisable to have more than enough spare hoses and distilled water. Have a cheap psu for testing even after the cooling system is installed in the case.

Have as little components as possible installed when testing for leaks. Drives, RAM, etc can be installed later.

EDIT: Do not ever let the pump run dry. It is lubricated by the cooling medium.

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post #25 of 56 (permalink) Old 03-17-2020, 02:03 AM - Thread Starter
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I decided to go with the Corsair ML120 Pro red led fans. Worse case, I return them and buy Noctua if they're too loud for me.

Quote: Originally Posted by rdr09 View Post
I see. Yah, like i said, get the water really at the highest warm setting, then run it a for like 5-10 minutes. Keep some water inside, plug both fittings and shake it a few. Run the water again through but reverse the flow, then drain. Fill it with distilled water and shake it and drain. Do the last step a few times.

I normally hook up everything together outside the case to test the pump and all the other components before installing. It would be advisable to have more than enough spare hoses and distilled water. Have a cheap psu for testing even after the cooling system is installed in the case.

Have as little components as possible installed when testing for leaks. Drives, RAM, etc can be installed later.

EDIT: Do not ever let the pump run dry. It is lubricated by the cooling medium.
Thanks for the tips! I'll definitely have plenty of tubing and water on hand. I'll be very thorough with cleaning the rad.

Do I need to spend time cleaning other items in the loop? Run a water cycle through and empty it or anything?

I gave away my only backup PSU to a friend a few months back, wish I still had it. I'll have to either find one or disconnect my sys psu for testing. Thankfully it's modular.

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post #26 of 56 (permalink) Old 03-17-2020, 02:26 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by CrazyDiamond View Post
I decided to go with the Corsair ML120 Pro red led fans. Worse case, I return them and buy Noctua if they're too loud for me.



Thanks for the tips! I'll definitely have plenty of tubing and water on hand. I'll be very thorough with cleaning the rad.

Do I need to spend time cleaning other items in the loop? Run a water cycle through and empty it or anything?

I gave away my only backup PSU to a friend a few months back, wish I still had it. I'll have to either find one or disconnect my sys psu for testing. Thankfully it's modular.
Nah, mainly just the rads. Physical inspection and 'wet/dry' run will work for the rest. Use a spare psu when leak testing if possible. Not the one installed. Some psu come with an adapter to get it running. Other use a paper clip.


There are other good videos about leak test and other setups for water cooling from start to finish. Watch them.

If you don't have a spare psu, then you have no choice. But make sure you only plug the pump. Leak test for a few hours. Other recommend overnight. I don't, i want to see. Some leaks are so tiny it takes hours to form a drop. Paper towel is good for catching them.

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Last edited by rdr09; 03-17-2020 at 02:31 AM.
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post #27 of 56 (permalink) Old 03-17-2020, 06:51 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by CrazyDiamond View Post
Well, I got mildly impatient and bought everything on the list except fans. So what do people recommend for radiator fans for an SP2 rad? Triple fan, push (no pull). Lower FPI but 60mm thick. I want to keep the system quiet while having high overclocking potential.

I was thinking Chromax NF-F12 PWM or Corsair ML120 Pro w/ red LED or aRGB. I'm not sure how loud the ML120 get though.
The ML120 will get loud, but only because of their speed. They won't be significantly louder (in terms of dB) at like speeds when compared to any other top fan. That said, it is really sound signature that is more important than actual dB output. Some sounds are far more invasive and irritating than others - nails on a blackboard will be perceived as far louder than the sound of the ocean at exactly the same volume. Personally, I don't love the sound of the ML120, I also don't love the fact that it MUST see 12V at all times to work correctly. The NF-F12 is definitely a nicer sounding fan, and performs almost as well as the ML120. The be quiet Silent Wings 3 will outperform either of those at like noise levels, and has the best sound signature of the three. Before the "Arctic P12 is the moar bestest!!!!" posts start....they are a really great budget fan. But, end of the day, that is what they are. A great option if you are looking to save money, but don't come close to the SW3, ML120 or NF-F12 in quality, sound signature or performance at like noise levels.

Yeah....the little girl hentai avatar is really creeping me out....
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post #28 of 56 (permalink) Old 03-17-2020, 06:52 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by CrazyDiamond View Post
Well, I got mildly impatient and bought everything on the list except fans. So what do people recommend for radiator fans for an SP2 rad? Triple fan, push (no pull). Lower FPI but 60mm thick. I want to keep the system quiet while having high overclocking potential.

I was thinking Chromax NF-F12 PWM or Corsair ML120 Pro w/ red LED or aRGB. I'm not sure how loud the ML120 get though.
The ML120 will get loud, but only because of their speed. They won't be significantly louder (in terms of dB) at like speeds when compared to any other top fan. That said, it is really sound signature that is more important than actual dB output. Some sounds are far more invasive and irritating than others - nails on a blackboard will be perceived as far louder than the sound of the ocean at exactly the same volume. Personally, I don't love the sound of the ML120, I also don't love the fact that it MUST see 12V at all times to work correctly. The NF-F12 is definitely a nicer sounding fan, and performs almost as well as the ML120. The be quiet Silent Wings 3 will outperform either of those at like noise levels, and has the best sound signature of the three. Before the "Arctic P12 is the moar bestest!!!!" posts start....they are a really great budget fan. But, end of the day, that is what they are. A great option if you are looking to save money, but don't come close to the SW3, ML120 or NF-F12 in quality, sound signature or performance at like noise levels.

And.....what did you actually wind up buying?

Yeah....the little girl hentai avatar is really creeping me out....
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post #29 of 56 (permalink) Old 03-17-2020, 05:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote: Originally Posted by ciarlatano View Post
The ML120 will get loud, but only because of their speed. They won't be significantly louder (in terms of dB) at like speeds when compared to any other top fan. That said, it is really sound signature that is more important than actual dB output. Some sounds are far more invasive and irritating than others - nails on a blackboard will be perceived as far louder than the sound of the ocean at exactly the same volume. Personally, I don't love the sound of the ML120, I also don't love the fact that it MUST see 12V at all times to work correctly. The NF-F12 is definitely a nicer sounding fan, and performs almost as well as the ML120. The be quiet Silent Wings 3 will outperform either of those at like noise levels, and has the best sound signature of the three. Before the "Arctic P12 is the moar bestest!!!!" posts start....they are a really great budget fan. But, end of the day, that is what they are. A great option if you are looking to save money, but don't come close to the SW3, ML120 or NF-F12 in quality, sound signature or performance at like noise levels.

And.....what did you actually wind up buying?
I'll have to check out the SW3. I ended up getting the ML120 just for the LEDs, went with the straight red ones and not the addressable. I plan to run them lower speeds so we'll see how they sound. If they're too loud then I will switch to the Noctua or be quiet.

I ended up buying everything I put in the list in the first post, it's been edited to be correct. The only difference is I also bought a backplate for the 5700xt. All in all, around $1500 Canadian. Pretty crazy, but getting screwed on currency exchange and shipping is a thing. Also just higher prices in Canadian facing retailers.

Fitting wise, I got 10x compression, 1x M-M 6mm extender, 1x M-M rotary extender, 1x T-joint, 1x ball valve, 2x plugs, 1x 90degree, 1x 45 degree. All from the EK Torque line. They were better priced than the bitspower, I wasn't a huge fan of the bitspower website, I liked the asthetics, and I was already ordering the gpu block from ek so I grabbed them there. Also picked up some odds and ends like a small funnel.

I'll share pictures when it all comes in and when I put it together.


What's the best way to fill the loop? The pump has 2 ports on top, one with a "straw" sticking down. I'm assuming the straw side is for the return line and the other top port is for filling. Do I just hold a funnel in the port and fill it that way?

I'm aware I need to bleed air from the system too, I'm guessing I can do that by keeping that fill hole open for awhile while running the system?


Last edited by CrazyDiamond; 03-17-2020 at 05:53 PM.
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post #30 of 56 (permalink) Old 03-17-2020, 07:10 PM
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Hi,
I have lots of ml series fans 140 and 120
They are well built all mine are not rgb so they were a lot cheaper 2 packs

CPU
i9-9940x With Optimus Foundation copper-plexi and Heatkiller VRM Plexi-Copper water block
Motherboard
ASUS x299 Rampage VI Apex
GPU
Titan Xp with copper Water Block
RAM
Trident Z 3600C16 4x8gb's b-die default timings 16-16-16-36
Hard Drive
Samsung 970 Evo Plus 500gb M.2/ Samsung 850 Pro 256gb for os and 500gb evo for favorite games plus other wd hdd's for data and backup's
Optical Drive
LG Blu-Ray WH16NS40
Power Supply
evga 1200-P2
Cooling
2-280GTX Black Ice Nemesis rads with D5 pump-res combo and D5 top before and after rads.
Cooling
MO-RA3 360 PRO stainless steel (25022)
Case
corsair 450D with added 2nd floor to house radiator on top
Operating System
Win-7 pro & 10 pro Win-7 Primary os.
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ASUS VG248QE 24" 144Hz
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Logitech G910 Orion spectrum
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Redragon Perdition
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X99 Sabertooth
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EVGA 1000-P2
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Case
Corsair 450D with added 2nd floor to house radiator on top
Operating System
Win-7 and 10 pro Win-7 Primary os.
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AOC G2460PG 24"G-Sync 144Hz
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eLeaf MELO-3 4ml
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