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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-14-2020, 11:57 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by eliwankenobi View Post
Yes the fans are good. I did change the orientation so as to set the fans as intake from the front. Pulling fresh air into the radiator.

Is it better to have the radiator connected hose at the top or the bottom when vertically mounted? I've heard top prolongs longevity, and then I've heard it doesn't matter one bit or top helps against air bubbles. Anyone know?

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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-14-2020, 12:04 PM
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I have my fans set to intake from the top of the case. The fans are really good temp and noise wise. Maybe, not the best but decent performers, if noise and price are your main criteria.
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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-14-2020, 12:09 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Falkentyne View Post
Is it better to have the radiator connected hose at the top or the bottom when vertically mounted? I've heard top prolongs longevity, and then I've heard it doesn't matter one bit or top helps against air bubbles. Anyone know?

The only reasonable reason to do so is to protect against noise due to eventual liquid vapourisation.

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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-14-2020, 12:10 PM
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shouldn't matter if the hoses leave the top or bottom of the rad so long as the pump/block isn't the highest point of the loop.

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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-14-2020, 12:12 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Falkentyne View Post
Is it better to have the radiator connected hose at the top or the bottom when vertically mounted? I've heard top prolongs longevity, and then I've heard it doesn't matter one bit or top helps against air bubbles. Anyone know?

I set it like that following recommendation from Gamer’s Nexus video. Helps prevents air bubbles to go into the CPU block. They stay on top of radiator. Not pretty but functional
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post #16 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-18-2020, 06:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks guys,

I am set up with the rad up top, exhaust. There is not a lot of additional room above the motherboard (mounted horizontally, in a v21 cube case). I hadn't thought about front intake. I have an mATX case and an ITX motherboard, so there's lots of room at the front. If I were to buy 2 more fans (it seems I'm determined to do so eh ), would a push pull setup be worth it for a front intake installation? I realize I will be taking air warmed by the rad in front, but I also have 2 x 120mm intake fans on the bottom. I will have plenty of room to set up enough exhaust fans to roughly equalize the air pressure.

One final question. I used non-conductive thermal paste for the install. Given that I understand the need to be very careful, what are the benefits of using liquid metal? The cooler has a copper cold plate. If it's worth it, how far from the edge of the heat spreader should I stop spreading the liquid metal? Or can it be spread to the edges? Finally, does protecting the immediate area around the heat spreader with nail polish help, and does it lead to any long term issues?

You guys are probably wondering why I am going on about this. I live on the 4th floor of an apartment building and I don't have AC. I am concerned about ambient temperature, come summer. Why don't I have AC? That's a question for another day.

I have learned a lot. Thanks again,

Graham
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post #17 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-18-2020, 07:35 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by gderreck View Post
Thanks guys,

I am set up with the rad up top, exhaust. There is not a lot of additional room above the motherboard (mounted horizontally, in a v21 cube case). I hadn't thought about front intake. I have an mATX case and an ITX motherboard, so there's lots of room at the front. If I were to buy 2 more fans (it seems I'm determined to do so eh ), would a push pull setup be worth it for a front intake installation? I realize I will be taking air warmed by the rad in front, but I also have 2 x 120mm intake fans on the bottom. I will have plenty of room to set up enough exhaust fans to roughly equalize the air pressure.

One final question. I used non-conductive thermal paste for the install. Given that I understand the need to be very careful, what are the benefits of using liquid metal? The cooler has a copper cold plate. If it's worth it, how far from the edge of the heat spreader should I stop spreading the liquid metal? Or can it be spread to the edges? Finally, does protecting the immediate area around the heat spreader with nail polish help, and does it lead to any long term issues?

You guys are probably wondering why I am going on about this. I live on the 4th floor of an apartment building and I don't have AC. I am concerned about ambient temperature, come summer. Why don't I have AC? That's a question for another day.

I have learned a lot. Thanks again,

Graham
Use a cutout foam dam to protect the area around the heat spreader. Put the foam dam on a layer of trimmed Super 33+ tape that you made to help cover the outside of the socket retention area.
This is what I did with my 9900K and NH-D15 when I used LM between the IHS and heatsink.

https://www.amazon.com/Duck-Replacem...dp/B002GKC2US/

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Quote: Originally Posted by sakete View Post
Well, I want you to know I have an academic degree in speculation.
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post #18 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-18-2020, 08:43 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Falk,

Maybe an obvious question, but the cold plate is considerably larger than the heat spreader. Do the tape and dam remain? Or remove dam after tightening the cold plate and leave the tape? If I had to guess, I'd avoid moving anything as any metal on the dam could be transferred to the motherboard. That's a guess based on ignorance.

I'm not quite as dumb as I seem , but this is the first time I have built a machine myself, and I have never had liquid metal as the conductive material before. Given the potential damage LM can do to the motherboard, I want to make sure I'm doing it right.

Graham
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post #19 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-18-2020, 09:04 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by gderreck View Post
Thanks Falk,

Maybe an obvious question, but the cold plate is considerably larger than the heat spreader. Do the tape and dam remain? Or remove dam after tightening the cold plate and leave the tape? If I had to guess, I'd avoid moving anything as any metal on the dam could be transferred to the motherboard. That's a guess based on ignorance.

I'm not quite as dumb as I seem , but this is the first time I have built a machine myself, and I have never had liquid metal as the conductive material before. Given the potential damage LM can do to the motherboard, I want to make sure I'm doing it right.

Graham
The tape you just apply around the gaps in the socket so LM doesn't ever fall into the socket around the CPU. Just apply it where it's barely touching the IHS and then rub it in a bit. Super 33+ tape is easy to work with. Don't use crappy tape.

The foam just goes on the edges of the socket bracket, right above the tape. That way any LM on the heatsink will get trapped and won't go anywhere else. Just cut out a shape of foam slightly larger in inside cutout than the IHS. It's easy to do. You don't want thick foam. The foam I linked is perfect for the job. The tape and foam serve two different purposes. The tape stops LM runoff from the IHS from escaping off the sides of the IHS and into the socket--if you applied the tape to barely touch the IHS edges. The foam stops LM from getting away off the block and if any LM happens to get on the tape somehow (it shouldn't though), it will stay there.

You can also use kneaded eraser and push it into the gaps around the socket, instead of foam or tape, if you so choose.

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Quote: Originally Posted by sakete View Post
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post #20 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-20-2020, 07:57 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks everyone,

Graham
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