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post #11 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-16-2020, 06:19 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote: Originally Posted by Avacado View Post
I don't really see a way to make any substantial modifications to a setup to reduce loop temp. Ambient is king, you don't control that no matter what season, you control nothing. You could add a chiller, which would add more heat to your room anyway, you could increase fan speed, but that wouldn't matter in the end if the ambient is warm. AC is your only option. You could remove filters and panels to ease air flow restriction which would help, but ultimately a summer without AC is just hot.
OK I might of got this thread title a little wrong. I do have AC and use it in the summer but on the really hot days even the AC can struggle... I think what I am wanting to know is how can I reduce my loop temps further, summer or winter.

I think Thrash has already answered this with his Mora 360. He says a 4C loop and component reduction with the Mora 360. That's pretty substantial...

I think the thread was supposed to be more aimed at peoples setups and what sort of temps your getting... Whether rads as intake/exhaust or more rads matter/make a difference. I've recently had my 2080 Ti FTW3 replaced and have learnt chip quality does not just affect the what clock speeds you get. My old GPU ran at a constant 50C sometimes creeping 53-55C last summer. My new GPU runs at 40-46C and occasionally peaks at 48C. This is under the same loop temps...

As mentioned I could reduce the GPU power limit or cap the FPS to possibly reduce the temps. That's quite relevant because I notice GPU temps respond directly to power consumption and not voltage or clock speed... Ultimately I'm wondering how possible it is to reduce the GPU and coolant temps another 2-4C with further cooling capacity/configuration....

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post #12 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-16-2020, 06:37 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Astral85 View Post
OK I might of got this thread title a little wrong. I do have AC and use it in the summer but on the really hot days even the AC can struggle... I think what I am wanting to know is how can I reduce my loop temps further, summer or winter.

I think Thrash has already answered this with his Mora 360. He says a 4C loop and component reduction with the Mora 360. That's pretty substantial...

I think the thread was supposed to be more aimed at peoples setups and what sort of temps your getting... Whether rads as intake/exhaust or more rads matter/make a difference. I've recently had my 2080 Ti FTW3 replaced and have learnt chip quality does not just affect the what clock speeds you get. My old GPU ran at a constant 50C sometimes creeping 53-55C last summer. My new GPU runs at 40-46C and occasionally peaks at 48C. This is under the same loop temps...

As mentioned I could reduce the GPU power limit or cap the FPS to possibly reduce the temps. That's quite relevant because I notice GPU temps respond directly to power consumption and not voltage or clock speed... Ultimately I'm wondering how possible it is to reduce the GPU and coolant temps another 2-4C with further cooling capacity/configuration....
Hi,
Think my water idle temps were unusual too at 32c when room ambient was always 25.5c or 78f degrees.
Now water is only 1-3c over and has not gone to 29c yet

So I would really think existing rads before the mora aren't all that efficient matter of fact pisspoor would be a better description of 2-280gtx and 2-240gtx or older 2-280CE all are the same crappy performance

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post #13 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-16-2020, 07:51 AM
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My office is south facing in the Denver elevation so even in winter it gets warm with the sun baking down on it, I have to crack the window to keep it cool, during summer the ac doesn't work the best in here so I just got a fan duct cover with fans, turns out they are just 2 pc fans, and not even high flow and very ******* noisy so I will be modding that with some high flow fans I have if I'm going to suffer with noise for more air, maybe add some rgb fans for more air flow

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post #14 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-16-2020, 03:04 PM
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In Greece it's the 3nd day that we reach 39c (102f i think) and its only may. This time of year we suppose to have max 30c but a heat came from Africa.
I have build the Homelab server in my sig and i haven't opened ac yet because it holds.

The problem in it is that there are 4 x sas 4tb Seagate disks that with normal weather were reaching 45 degrees. When i saw that i didn't know what to do at first and i was thinking the Greek summer, so i did this. I bought 2 x 120mm noctuas 3000rpm that i put them in push/pull in the disks.

The fans at high rpms make noise but i manage to set their max speed at 2300rpm so the noise is acceptable and have them at 44c with 38-39c ambient.

I watch it closely but i find it stupid to open the ac for it.

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post #15 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-17-2020, 04:42 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Astral85 View Post
OK I might of got this thread title a little wrong. I do have AC and use it in the summer but on the really hot days even the AC can struggle... I think what I am wanting to know is how can I reduce my loop temps further, summer or winter.

I think Thrash has already answered this with his Mora 360. He says a 4C loop and component reduction with the Mora 360. That's pretty substantial...

I think the thread was supposed to be more aimed at peoples setups and what sort of temps your getting... Whether rads as intake/exhaust or more rads matter/make a difference. I've recently had my 2080 Ti FTW3 replaced and have learnt chip quality does not just affect the what clock speeds you get. My old GPU ran at a constant 50C sometimes creeping 53-55C last summer. My new GPU runs at 40-46C and occasionally peaks at 48C. This is under the same loop temps...

As mentioned I could reduce the GPU power limit or cap the FPS to possibly reduce the temps. That's quite relevant because I notice GPU temps respond directly to power consumption and not voltage or clock speed... Ultimately I'm wondering how possible it is to reduce the GPU and coolant temps another 2-4C with further cooling capacity/configuration....
Sure, you can add an external radiator, but again it can't cool past ambient, so if your "AC struggles" in the summer, it wont matter how many rads you have. Also the Mora is a 300$ part not including fan costs. If money is not an issue and you don't mind having external cooling components, then you should go for it. 300$ might be better spent adding Freon/servicing your AC rather than adding more radiators. To reduce your temps in winter, just open your windows, lol

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post #16 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-17-2020, 06:11 AM
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by being hot as balls all summer. (remember, water cooling = better heat transfer = now your room is hotter instead of your computer!)

this summer, i'm upgrading the fuse box to handle me installing a window AC in my office.

Not playing the sticking to the chair game this year boys. Too damn old.

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post #17 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-17-2020, 06:13 AM
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Hi,
I suppose if you get all the mora 360 assessors it might get a little expensive but a 360LT is 160.us 420LT 280.us without them and is all I bought
Made my own stand system and had just enough fans for one side one the first mora I got just put the second mora 360's in front of each other and still the second mora with no fans is sitting there with water temp as 26.1c

Don't have kids/ cat or dog so no grills needed intake filtered with a box fan behind it for the go time
So you can do it on the cheap
Think 10 pairs of QDC's= quick disconnects were the biggest expense

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post #18 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-17-2020, 07:01 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by skupples View Post
by being hot as balls all summer. (remember, water cooling = better heat transfer = now your room is hotter instead of your computer!)

this summer, i'm upgrading the fuse box to handle me installing a window AC in my office.

Not playing the sticking to the chair game this year boys. Too damn old.



Ditch the leather chair for mesh. Get an Aeron when they go on sale and you'll be set for life.

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post #19 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-17-2020, 07:29 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by elucid087 View Post
Ditch the leather chair for mesh. Get an Aeron when they go on sale and you'll be set for life.
We got those in the office.. man they are so good..

I also played the stick to the AK Racing chair game until I bought myself a powerful A/C unit last year.

I'm in Holland so no 40c's here but still, summer can see long stretches of 30c+ days and my house is angled completely wrong so the sun burns down on my side of the roof from 9 AM to 3 PM so it heats up super fast in the morning. Plus, 120 year old house, terribad isolation on the roof.. literally styrofoam blocks glued to the roof with a drywall sheet over them. Really have to improve that as the wall literally feels warm in the summer lol. Ambients before AC in my gaming room would easily go over 40c with the PC running. Hell, i've seen 44c ambients just playing minecraft on a 36c sunny day.

But, I got myself a office size rolling A/C (like, 3360w / 10k BTU) with it's own 16A 240VAC group and power socket and it keeps my upstairs around 21-24c with 33-36c ambients outside. And that is with my PC running full blast at like, 500-700w of heat output from 2 seperate watercoolers. I do have to keep the A/C running ocnstantly on a thermostat because of the bad isolation of the upstairs floor. It keeps leaking in SO much heat I have to keep it running so my power bill is through the roof but yeah.. i don't care lol.

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post #20 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-17-2020, 03:19 PM
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Nothing. If my GPU works fine at 38°C during the winter, it also works fine at 43°C in summer. Same for my CPU.
That 5-8°C increase in temps shouldn't matter. If that throws of your stability, then you have other problems.

During winter, my ambient around my computer is always 2-3°C higher than roomtemp, because hot exhaust air stays around the case. If I open a window in summer or put a fan on, that hot air can't circulate around the case anymore and my intake temps drop by 2-3°C. So that might helps if you don't have an AC that regulates air circulation in your room.

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