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post #109461 of 109796 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 03:06 PM
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Hello A few months ago, I posted a couple of select early pics but now I'm finished and working on my 'Orca & Rucksack' build log....a few select pics below

2950x / X399 - 2x 2080 Ti Aorus WB - GPU water-cooling via 3x RX 360 and 2x MPC655 pumps - CPU water-cooling via 2x RX 360 and 2x MPC 655 pumps 20x 120mm rad fans
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post #109462 of 109796 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 06:15 PM
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be careful with those swiftech rotaries. They get weak over time, & will form high pressure squirts from the joint.

It took mine about 18 months to get to that point. The only rotaries I've had not fail after ~2 years are BP. They still have the same resistance years later. I've yet to have to retire a single one, even the crazy double rotary ones.


besides that bit of caution, looks great.

R.I.P. Zawarudo, may you OC angels' wings in heaven.
If something appears too good to be true, it probably is.

Last edited by skupples; 04-14-2019 at 06:18 PM.
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post #109463 of 109796 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 06:32 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by skupples View Post
be careful with those swiftech rotaries. They get weak over time, & will form high pressure squirts from the joint.

It took mine about 18 months to get to that point. The only rotaries I've had not fail after ~2 years are BP. They still have the same resistance years later. I've yet to have to retire a single one, even the crazy double rotary ones.


besides that bit of caution, looks great.

Thanks for the note of caution on the rotaries for the CPU block. I had these rotaries since 2013 (though not in use for two years). I am aware of potential issues with rotaries, and indeed had a few which did develop problems some time ago. The ones I used though were pressure-tested at well-above the pressure in the system...and most importantly, I made sure that there is no uneven push / pull via the hoses on the 45 degree angle joint...that, in my past experience, was responsible for weaknesses in similar rotaries. Still, worth keeping an eye on - which isn't hard to do as it is behind glass and at eye level
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post #109464 of 109796 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 08:04 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by skupples View Post
be careful with those swiftech rotaries. They get weak over time, & will form high pressure squirts from the joint.

It took mine about 18 months to get to that point. The only rotaries I've had not fail after ~2 years are BP. They still have the same resistance years later. I've yet to have to retire a single one, even the crazy double rotary ones.


besides that bit of caution, looks great.
I often wonder whether all these Bitspower fittings I have bought are worth the cost over other brands, but posts like this make me insist on them every time.

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post #109465 of 109796 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 09:43 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by skupples View Post
be careful with those swiftech rotaries. They get weak over time, & will form high pressure squirts from the joint.

It took mine about 18 months to get to that point. The only rotaries I've had not fail after ~2 years are BP. They still have the same resistance years later. I've yet to have to retire a single one, even the crazy double rotary ones.


besides that bit of caution, looks great.
XSPC - Had a few leak from a second purchase a couple years after the first bunch had been used for about 3.5 year problem free. XSPC made it right through the vendor though. That experience is not typical of my overall experience with XSPC PC water cooling gear.

Bitspower - Had 5 leak over a period of about 5 years. To be fair, all but the snake rotary were in hard to see, tight spots and were being pulled slightly to one side, unrealized by me upon initial build. The leaks were small and very hard to find. It took a few weeks, a mirror on a long bendable handle, some contortionist body twisting, a nice bright LED flashlight and a large spray bottle of soapy water to locate the tiny little bubbles that burped out at a snail's pace.

<= is what I felt like by the time that debacle was over.

I will still use either brand again.

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post #109466 of 109796 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 12:58 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Questors View Post
XSPC - Had a few leak from a second purchase a couple years after the first bunch had been used for about 3.5 year problem free. XSPC made it right through the vendor though. That experience is not typical of my overall experience with XSPC PC water cooling gear.

Bitspower - Had 5 leak over a period of about 5 years. To be fair, all but the snake rotary were in hard to see, tight spots and were being pulled slightly to one side, unrealized by me upon initial build. The leaks were small and very hard to find. It took a few weeks, a mirror on a long bendable handle, some contortionist body twisting, a nice bright LED flashlight and a large spray bottle of soapy water to locate the tiny little bubbles that burped out at a snail's pace.

<= is what I felt like by the time that debacle was over.

I will still use either brand again.

...I can empathize with that frustration - ever since I started custom w-cooling at the beginning of this decade, I noticed (somewhat rare) issues with Swiftech, Koolance (and possibly Bitspower) on fittings with a joint which swivel / rotate in some way. As stated above, IMO it came down to uneven push/pull of the tubing on the fitting...in my current build, I paid attention to 'neutral push/pull' and these specific joints in the build above do not (and should not) move, swivel etc as it is locked in (there are Koolance quick-disconnects on that loop for maintenance etc). However, if I ever notice the slightest leak, I'll apply SealAll to the joint - I fixed high-pressure fuel lines for cars with that stuff decades back...
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post #109467 of 109796 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 01:41 PM
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i tried using that stuff to fix the design flaw in the 3x DDC block from... Koolance?

didn't work. The water still found a path out after I roughed up the acrylic, applied a ton, n let cure for 24 hours.

still dude's correct. It's about proper position. The resistance of BP fittings give you more margin of error, whereas the cheaper ones with less resistance/tolerance require more precision to not push them outta wack, to the point of leaking.

R.I.P. Zawarudo, may you OC angels' wings in heaven.
If something appears too good to be true, it probably is.
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post #109468 of 109796 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 02:16 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by skupples View Post
i tried using that stuff to fix the design flaw in the 3x DDC block from... Koolance?

didn't work. The water still found a path out after I roughed up the acrylic, applied a ton, n let cure for 24 hours.

still dude's correct. It's about proper position. The resistance of BP fittings give you more margin of error, whereas the cheaper ones with less resistance/tolerance require more precision to not push them outta wack, to the point of leaking.

...probably going 'off topic' a bit, but I have amassed way too much knowledge about SealAll than I should have (read: I can be a klutz when impatient). SealALL works best when:

a.) it has s.th. cleaned and a bit roughed up to grip and is applied in several 'touch-dry' layers and
b.) can be reinforced between layers, i.e. with duct tape !
c.) if the problem area can be completely ('360 degrees') covered, like a tube, a block, a pipe or fitting (as is discussed here), I'm not boasting when I say that I must be at 100 out of 100 (or so... )
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post #109469 of 109796 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 07:44 AM
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Hello all, I’m rebuilding my loop. I’m working out of a caselabs S3, and just bought a black ice nemesis GTX 360 and GTR 240.

I need advice on fans. I’m looking at the noctua NF-F12 but I noticed that NF-P12 redux 1700s are about $10 cheaper, even after buying the anti vibration mounts.

Does anyone have experience with both of these? Is there a remarkable difference in noise and performance that would warrant an additional $10 per fan?

Also given that these are both Static pressure optimized fans, do you see a huge impact from push pull vs just push or pull?

Thanks.


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post #109470 of 109796 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 08:21 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by J7SC View Post
Quote: Originally Posted by skupples View Post
i tried using that stuff to fix the design flaw in the 3x DDC block from... Koolance?

didn't work. The water still found a path out after I roughed up the acrylic, applied a ton, n let cure for 24 hours.

still dude's correct. It's about proper position. The resistance of BP fittings give you more margin of error, whereas the cheaper ones with less resistance/tolerance require more precision to not push them outta wack, to the point of leaking.

...probably going 'off topic' a bit, but I have amassed way too much knowledge about SealAll than I should have (read: I can be a klutz when impatient). SealALL works best when:

a.) it has s.th. cleaned and a bit roughed up to grip and is applied in several 'touch-dry' layers and
b.) can be reinforced between layers, i.e. with duct tape ! [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/whistle.gif[/IMG]
c.) if the problem area can be completely ('360 degrees') covered, like a tube, a block, a pipe or fitting (as is discussed here), I'm not boasting when I say that I must be at 100 out of 100 (or so... [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif[/IMG] )
Lol I tried it all, aside from duct tape.

That glued in plastic insert is just highly prone to failure. It’s why most 3x DDC systems are now 2x DDC systems wth an extra DDC in the drawer.

I think the only solution woulda been recreating the piece and properly re-acrylic glueing it in.

R.I.P. Zawarudo, may you OC angels' wings in heaven.
If something appears too good to be true, it probably is.
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