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post #48071 of 109860 (permalink) Old 08-18-2013, 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by cyphon View Post

Clean is important. As someone mentioned, variety of materials is nice. Also, make sure the inlets/outlets are in good places and can fit even the larger compression fittings.

Try to find a signature that sets your design apart from the other guys. Example:

Koolance: All shiny silver finishes
EK: Clean and acrylic tops
XSPC: Black top over acrylic, lit up by LED

Obviously there are many others, but those are the ones that came to mind immediately

I was thinking raw copper tops, with both a shiny and brushed style top, probably coated in a thin clear coat to prevent damage to the copper itself.

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post #48072 of 109860 (permalink) Old 08-18-2013, 11:38 PM
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Hey all!! Would you folks mind taking a look at these temps and telling me what you think? Here's the deal... I am moving part by part, as many of us do with our first water loops, into a full custom loop. Currently, I am using this H220, the original res/rad, an add-on 120, and more importantly, two EK 670 DCUII blocks and the EK CSQ bridge (all in my rig in the sig below).

Also, can you more experienced WC'ers out there tell me what I might expect from a fully custom loop with a snugly fit 250mm res, I don't know what pump I should use, and if it's worth looking at the Phobia 400 rad for the front since it's already modded a bit, and should I not have a rad at the top or the back for airflow??

Here are the temps I am getting now. The load is BF3 for 1 hour over 5760 x 1080. Not the most stable game in the world for overclockers... mad.gif




Here is the rig for easy visual reference again:

Now:




Before water, but the front situation is the same.



3820 @ 4.3
16GB @ 2133
SSD - OS only
SSD R0 - for games only
3TB HDD - Storage and games I dont want to re-download from Steam
670 4GB SLI @ +120 Core +200 Mem +100 CV +122 PL

So the goal of the rig is GAMING... almost exclusively outside of a few days a month I use it for a larger project for the screen real estate.

Thanks for your help!! Let me know if something doesn't make sense...
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post #48073 of 109860 (permalink) Old 08-19-2013, 12:15 AM
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Originally Posted by WebsterXC View Post

The EK block is not a rip off of the MIPS, where on earth did you get that conclusion from?
That looks pretty similar to the mips blocks for the Asus MVE if you ask me! I do like it though. I really ike the OC Force board also...nothin like a little overkill!!
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post #48074 of 109860 (permalink) Old 08-19-2013, 12:21 AM
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Originally Posted by B3L13V3R View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Hey all!! Would you folks mind taking a look at these temps and telling me what you think? Here's the deal... I am moving part by part, as many of us do with our first water loops, into a full custom loop. Currently, I am using this H220, the original res/rad, an add-on 120, and more importantly, two EK 670 DCUII blocks and the EK CSQ bridge (all in my rig in the sig below).

Also, can you more experienced WC'ers out there tell me what I might expect from a fully custom loop with a snugly fit 250mm res, I don't know what pump I should use, and if it's worth looking at the Phobia 400 rad for the front since it's already modded a bit, and should I not have a rad at the top or the back for airflow??

Here are the temps I am getting now. The load is BF3 for 1 hour over 5760 x 1080. Not the most stable game in the world for overclockers... mad.gif



Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Here is the rig for easy visual reference again:

Now:




Before water, but the front situation is the same.



3820 @ 4.3
16GB @ 2133
SSD - OS only
SSD R0 - for games only
3TB HDD - Storage and games I dont want to re-download from Steam
670 4GB SLI @ +120 Core +200 Mem +100 CV +122 PL

So the goal of the rig is GAMING... almost exclusively outside of a few days a month I use it for a larger project for the screen real estate.

Thanks for your help!! Let me know if something doesn't make sense...

Temps quite high @4.3GHz. Does running BF3 at large resolution causing the CPU to run a lot harder questionmark.gif I'm guessing ambient around 29 - 30C questionmark.gif Mine max at 62C @4.5GHz in 31C ambient with H100 but BF3 is 1080p only.
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post #48075 of 109860 (permalink) Old 08-19-2013, 01:45 AM
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post #48076 of 109860 (permalink) Old 08-19-2013, 02:28 AM
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Originally Posted by defiler2k View Post

I use the XSPC G 1/4 sensors I have two of them to measure the fluid that is leaving the hottest point of the loop (GPUS) and the fluid that is returning to my reservoir. I also use this to check how much of a difference I see in temps when running the fans in the case at certain speeds.

You would measure Deltas in fluid by subtracting the ambient vs the coolant temps at the points you are checking.

Thanks for answering to part of my post smile.gif.

I wouldn't invest in two 1/4 sensors even if they weren't so expensive. I was expecting you lot knew about some cheap sensors like with LEDs but I guess I'll have to cash out 20€ then :/.

I know how to calculate Delta temps, I was wondering if it was done @idle or full load but I think somebody answered that and said you had to do it once the liquid's temp was stable (so not right after booting up).


As for opening the reservoir while the pump's running I guess I'll have to find out on my own since it looks like not a single one of you knows...


EDIT:
So yes, you can remove a reservoir's cap while the pump is running without it overflowing which means that I've lost a lot of time when filling my loop. I used to fill the res, close it, run the pump and repeat until the loop was full... this means I could've just turned the pump on and poored the liquid into the reservoir until the loop was full tongue.gif.

My Delta T° is between 4.7°C and 5.2°C so that just taught me there's nothing wrong with my loop and it's running great (Martin's liquid lab says 5°C is extreme performance, 10°C decent and 15°C bad or something like that).
For the testing I used a single sensor which is why the reading can't be 100% accurate since I wasn't reading both temps at the same time and ambient may have changed. I booted the computer and used it for a good 30-45minutes and then ran IBT Maximum Ram / Xtreme Stress mode for five runs and wrote down the highest water T°.

Does anybody here have any experience with the Fractal Design Arc Midi R2's dust filters ? For the testing the top and side pannels were removed and so was the front dust filter / mesh thing and my CPU never went above 60°C (HWMonitor, RealTemp and HWiNFO64), last night with a 28°C ambient instead of ~22.5°C my max CPU temp under max / Xtreme IBT was 72°C with everything on the case.

EDIT:
forget about the Arc Midi R2's dust filters, they were much filthier than they looked. I closed my bathroom's sink and ran water through the front dust filter + mesh and the water was full of dust. I couldn't do that with the top dust filter because it's way too big so I just used the bath tub but I guess it would've been even worse.

Fractal Design Case Club
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post #48077 of 109860 (permalink) Old 08-19-2013, 03:54 AM
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post #48078 of 109860 (permalink) Old 08-19-2013, 03:58 AM
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Originally Posted by oelkanne View Post

any suggestions???tubing or so?....

Need closer look picture
though its looking good from far
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post #48079 of 109860 (permalink) Old 08-19-2013, 04:06 AM
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if im back from my appointment like an houre...i coud post some more....thanks so far thumb.gif
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post #48080 of 109860 (permalink) Old 08-19-2013, 04:07 AM
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Originally Posted by briddell View Post

That OC Force block is a complete ripoff of Mips! I love their style, will probably try to mirror it with my own little twist.
LOL what? cowboy.gif

MIPS blocks were never single level, they were always more levels of POM and no stainless steel.

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