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post #48081 of 109827 (permalink) Old 08-19-2013, 04:45 AM
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Aesthetically, make them non-chunky. I don't really know how to explain it but the EK board block for the OC Force is absolutely gorgeous. It is all the same height and just looks good. Also, a mixture of materials like POM and copper and you could design them so that if someone wanted an acrylic top, it would easy on your end to make one.

Jeffinslaw

That OC Force block is a complete ripoff of Mips! I love their style, will probably try to mirror it with my own little twist.

mb7511.jpg

OC%20Force.jpg

 

lolwut.



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post #48082 of 109827 (permalink) Old 08-19-2013, 05:12 AM - Thread Starter
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That OC Force block is a complete ripoff of Mips! I love their style, will probably try to mirror it with my own little twist.
LOL what? cowboy.gif

MIPS blocks were never single level, they were always more levels of POM and no stainless steel.



true story.


That OC block looks really good too....

And where is my impact block?


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post #48083 of 109827 (permalink) Old 08-19-2013, 05:14 AM
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post #48084 of 109827 (permalink) Old 08-19-2013, 05:22 AM - Thread Starter
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post #48085 of 109827 (permalink) Old 08-19-2013, 06:54 AM
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Ah it's already on order, just whenever the post gets it here.

 

Not allowed to post photos but I think this bit of news is relevant to enough people here:

http://www.ekwb.com/news/385/19/Two-new-custom-PCB-GeForce-GTX-780-water-blocks-in-the-works/



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post #48086 of 109827 (permalink) Old 08-19-2013, 07:03 AM
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I want a block for the 780 HOF, though. Pastel White on a nickel plated block with a white PCB. I would punch babies to get it.

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post #48087 of 109827 (permalink) Old 08-19-2013, 07:15 AM
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post #48088 of 109827 (permalink) Old 08-19-2013, 08:01 AM
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Wow, I want to do a ITX rig just so I can use that board.


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post #48089 of 109827 (permalink) Old 08-19-2013, 08:06 AM
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Thanks for answering to part of my post smile.gif.

I wouldn't invest in two 1/4 sensors even if they weren't so expensive. I was expecting you lot knew about some cheap sensors like with LEDs but I guess I'll have to cash out 20€ then :/.

I know how to calculate Delta temps, I was wondering if it was done @idle or full load but I think somebody answered that and said you had to do it once the liquid's temp was stable (so not right after booting up).


As for opening the reservoir while the pump's running I guess I'll have to find out on my own since it looks like not a single one of you knows...


EDIT:
So yes, you can remove a reservoir's cap while the pump is running without it overflowing which means that I've lost a lot of time when filling my loop. I used to fill the res, close it, run the pump and repeat until the loop was full... this means I could've just turned the pump on and poored the liquid into the reservoir until the loop was full tongue.gif.

My Delta T° is between 4.7°C and 5.2°C so that just taught me there's nothing wrong with my loop and it's running great (Martin's liquid lab says 5°C is extreme performance, 10°C decent and 15°C bad or something like that).
For the testing I used a single sensor which is why the reading can't be 100% accurate since I wasn't reading both temps at the same time and ambient may have changed. I booted the computer and used it for a good 30-45minutes and then ran IBT Maximum Ram / Xtreme Stress mode for five runs and wrote down the highest water T°.

Does anybody here have any experience with the Fractal Design Arc Midi R2's dust filters ? For the testing the top and side pannels were removed and so was the front dust filter / mesh thing and my CPU never went above 60°C (HWMonitor, RealTemp and HWiNFO64), last night with a 28°C ambient instead of ~22.5°C my max CPU temp under max / Xtreme IBT was 72°C with everything on the case.

EDIT:
forget about the Arc Midi R2's dust filters, they were much filthier than they looked. I closed my bathroom's sink and ran water through the front dust filter + mesh and the water was full of dust. I couldn't do that with the top dust filter because it's way too big so I just used the bath tub but I guess it would've been even worse.

Sorry I totally forgot that part of your question, glad you found out. I actually leave the fill port open after the pump has been primed enough to not run dry at any point while I'm filling the loop. You don't want to have the pump run dry at any point. I cap it once Im ready to walk away to leak test.

If you add GPU's to your loop you should look at your coolant temps under heavy load, acrylic components start to deform if the fluid goes beyond 50C.
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post #48090 of 109827 (permalink) Old 08-19-2013, 08:50 AM
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That looks pretty similar to the mips blocks for the Asus MVE if you ask me! I do like it though. I really ike the OC Force board also...nothin like a little overkill!!

EK has had that design way before MIPS. Both have their own unique aspects though.

By the way, it may not be super cost efficient, but making blocks on request would be incredible. I know so many people dying yo water cool their AMD boards but have no options. Even though Intel holds more of the enthusiast PC market, allowing the option of someone send their board to you and fabricating a waterblock would be awesome.

I don't own a CNC/Mill though, so that may be extremely difficult and impractical.


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