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post #22751 of 28489 (permalink) Old 05-07-2013, 01:25 AM
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Installed the H110, not a perfect fit but it was simple enough using zip straps and whatnot biggrin.gif I did a few things different than the manual showed but bios shows 22-24c so it would seem it was OK thumb.gif Desktop is around 34c (nothing really different than my H100) and so far working the images in CS6 I hit max 51c on two cores and the rest stayed under 50c

The unit looks nice, its simple and best part is I don't have to tap it with a butter knife to start (looks at H100 lying in a box) the pump or sounding like an engine missing a cylinder. Top fans are 900rpm and the bottom stock fans are 1050rpm.

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post #22752 of 28489 (permalink) Old 05-07-2013, 07:16 AM
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I have a Question. Will the AMD mounting bracket for the H-80I work for the H-80?

My wifes rig has a amd Asus ch4 with a H-50 and I have a spare H-80 but I have seem to have lost most of the mounting hardware like the two clips.

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post #22753 of 28489 (permalink) Old 05-07-2013, 05:31 PM
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I have a Question. Will the AMD mounting bracket for the H-80I work for the H-80?

My wifes rig has a amd Asus ch4 with a H-50 and I have a spare H-80 but I have seem to have lost most of the mounting hardware like the two clips.
As far as I can tell, no. The H80i uses a magnetized bracket that is one piece, while the H80 bracket is 2 pieces that need to be screwed into the water block.

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post #22754 of 28489 (permalink) Old 05-07-2013, 05:35 PM
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Bummer

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post #22755 of 28489 (permalink) Old 05-07-2013, 05:56 PM
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I've mounted a H80 to a 1155t/AMD mobo using zip straps. Over a year now and temps are still 19-22c @ 3.9 ghz.

I used parts from my original H70 & h100 mount a H110 last night, only used the 110 bracket from everything in the box. Yes, parts can miss matched and ingenuity goes a long ways.

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post #22756 of 28489 (permalink) Old 05-07-2013, 06:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cravinmild View Post

I've mounted a H80 to a 1155t/AMD mobo using zip straps. Over a year now and temps are still 19-22c @ 3.9 ghz.

I used parts from my original H70 & h100 mount a H110 last night, only used the 110 bracket from everything in the box. Yes, parts can miss matched and ingenuity goes a long ways.
The "I" models use a completely different bracket. It is magnetized, and sits on top of the water block. The non "I" models have brackets that have to be screwed into the sides of the water block in order to mount.
Making "I" model brackets incompatible with non"I" models.

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post #22757 of 28489 (permalink) Old 05-07-2013, 06:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cravinmild View Post

I've mounted a H80 to a 1155t/AMD mobo using zip straps. Over a year now and temps are still 19-22c @ 3.9 ghz.

I used parts from my original H70 & h100 mount a H110 last night, only used the 110 bracket from everything in the box. Yes, parts can miss matched and ingenuity goes a long ways.

Well I have the bracket just not the two pins and screws

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post #22758 of 28489 (permalink) Old 05-07-2013, 07:15 PM
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Funny that you mention all of this, because HWMonitor shows me all of those readings on one window. And I JUST got done testing the suggestion you made with switching the fan back and forth right before reading this. (what a coincidence tongue.gif)

I will take a couple screenshots in a minute and post them.. I really didnt see much of a difference in temps, if any really.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Pics Attached---



I should mention, also, that I already have a small fan attached right next to my CPU.

Your temps look nice. I don't think you have any worries.
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Bummer

You should be able to get those parts from Corsair though.

http://www.corsair.com/us/parts/cooling-parts/hydro-series-h60-h80-h100-universal-bracket-kit.html

$16 is pretty good.

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post #22759 of 28489 (permalink) Old 05-07-2013, 08:20 PM
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Your temps look nice. I don't think you have any worries.
You should be able to get those parts from Corsair though.

http://www.corsair.com/us/parts/cooling-parts/hydro-series-h60-h80-h100-universal-bracket-kit.html

$16 is pretty good.
I like my temps. I'm just reaching the end of the list of suggestions to get it passed 4.5Ghz.. Beginning to admit to myself that it is at the limit of its potential without upgrading to a custom water loop.

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post #22760 of 28489 (permalink) Old 05-08-2013, 01:00 AM
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So I finished installing the H110 in my Cooler Master HAF 932 and pretty happy with it thumb.gif I was lucky and other than the H110 bracket nothing else was needed out of the box. I had a H100 on there previous to this and kept all the mounting stuff, pretty much removed the H100 and placed the H110 on and screwed it all up tight. I may have also used some of the H70 mounting stuff to install the H100... its been a while but im sure I needed some of that kit as the H100 packaging was incomplete and I was forced to improvise. This pic shows all I needed to mount this kit. The stock H110 bracket and the screws from the H100 unit from before.

mounting bracket by cravinmild2, on Flickr

Here are a few shots I took of the unit. No unboxing vid or anything just a few quick pics tongue.gif

pump surface by cravinmild2, on Flickr
rad and pump by cravinmild2, on Flickr

I had a bit of time to wait until my unit arrived and during that time it started to bother me that I was only receiving two fans with the H110. I like to do Push/Pull as it worked well on my H100, kept my 2700k under 80c @5.2ghz, it was loud but it worked. Reading these forums and looking at all the fans listed I was starting to get nervous. Someone linked 140mm fans (needed for the H110) that were $45 PER fan AND that was on sale from the reg. price of $79....... PER FAN. I wanted them so bad but not for even close to those prices.
Anyways, long story short, I decided to use some of the Ultra Kaze 3000 120mm that were used on my H100 P/P. By the time the unit showed up I had it all figured out. Here is my log biggrin.gif

Now the Rad is longer and wider on the 110 and that means the 120mm fans would sit directly on the fins BUT if I placed them at the top between the rad and the case I could use the 120mm screw holes in the case to hold the rad at the top of the case with no cutting or destroying anything. I don't like cutting or altering the case, its a limited edition lol.


Rad long by cravinmild2, on Flickr

What I ended up doing was using zipstraps. Put a zippy thin enough to slip easily through the fins but with a nub that's too large to pull through the screw hole in the fan. Rubber washer on the other side where the zippy pops through the rad and use the nub from another zippy as a locker nut to stop it from pulling back through the fins. Rubber washer will reduce any damage the nub may cause. Honestly I doubt it would even bend a fin.

Here you see the nub coming through with the rubber washer to protect the fins. The smaller 120mm needs to be mounted first as the 140mm will obviously block the rad on that side. You can see the attached 140mm and the empty space waiting for the second 140mm fan.

zip lock in rad by cravinmild2, on Flickr

Here is a side view of the 120mm sitting on the rad fins. There are some rubber washers between the rad and fans and rubber washers between the fins and locker nubs on the other side. There is not play there, its all solid.

uk3000 mounted

Here is a full on shot. I arranged the 120mm UK 300 so they would line up to the holes at the top of the case. This keeps mounting the rad simple. Also a bonus of this is that there is not modding needed to mount in the CM 932. I cant see the weight of the rad unit itself and the two included fans causing any sagging in the rad from holding its own weight with zipties. Time will tell I guess, if the rad starts to look like a banana then perhaps ill change it up.

full rad and fans by cravinmild2, on Flickr

Some luck with the above shot. After a foiled mounting of the rad I soon realized that I cant used both 120mm fans in their stock screw holes on the case as doing so would have the P/P fans not line up on both sides. Now the fans are directly below the center of each other. For some reason it seemed important at the time. Now only one 120mm is bolted to the case using the proper screw holes and the other fan which did not line up was fastened using zipstraps. Its just as secure as if it were bolted.

All the fans are controlled using Scythe Master Pro 6 fan controller. I lost the use of the built in fan controller from the H100 pump head. The two fans I have in the front drive bay controlled by that fan controller now run full blast but I have a couple of resisters to slow them down in light I have no fan controller anymore for them. The other two channels of the fan controller are used on the H70 I have attached to my GPU AKA "The Mod"

I have not had a chance to really stress the unit yet so I only have the bios recorded temps. The fans were a bit loud at this time and I had to turn them down at the cost of higher temps but by no means were the fans "real loud". The UK3000 were around 1700 rpm and the stock fans were about the same. Side note here I by accident turned the stock fans WAY WAY up and they made a noise ive never heard before. Fan controller said they were 2400rpm (IDK) but only for a second or two... for science wink.gif

temps-bios by cravinmild2, on Flickr
Using HWmonitor I am around 31c idle on the desktop and so maxed out at 51c on two cores editing these pics in CS6. Fans are 900rpm for the UK3000 and 1100 for the stock fans. There is no pump noise at all. No gargleing, No grinding sound.

Here is some pics of the unit mounted in the case

pump in close up by cravinmild2, on Flickr
full case top down by cravinmild2, on Flickr
full case installed by cravinmild2, on Flickr

Can I join your club now biggrin.gif

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