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Silent Water Cooling Solution

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post #1 of 51 (permalink) Old 01-13-2010, 09:23 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm looking to switch to water cooling for my sig rig. I've read up a bit on watercooling but I'm still very much a newbie. My current air cooling setup is fine at keeping temps down but its quite loud and on hot days it heats up my room, big time.

I was hoping for some suggestions on what parts to get for a complete water cooling setup. The loop is to include the CPU + 1 GPU. I don't need a waterblock for the GTX 260 because I will be upgrading to a Fermi card whenever they are released and watercooling that instead. The loop should also be able to handle a 2nd graphics card if I ever go SLI.

The most important thing though is, I would like the cooling setup to be near silent. I imagine the loudest parts would be the pump and radiator fans. My budget is between $300-$500 but it can be increased if neccesery. My overclocks arn't huge so I dont need the very best, most uber parts, just good value for money and quiet parts.

Thanks


EDIT: Added Loop Components


CPU Water Block: EK-Supreme LT Acetal+Nickel $62

Radiator: XSPC RX360 $115

Pump: EK-DCP 2.2 $59

Reservoir: EK-Bay Spin Reservoir Acetal $60

Fans: Scythe Gentle Typhoon 120mm Fan 1150rpm x3 $29 x3 = $87

Tubing: Tygon R-3603 Laboratory Tubing (Clear 3/8 5/8 1/8) x3 (3m total) $12.95 x3 = $38.85

Coolant: Distilled Water + PrimoChill Liquid Utopia-3ml, Clear + Red Food Coloring $0 + $5.95 + $0 = $5.95

Compression Fittings: Bitspower G1/4 Black Sparkle Compression Fitting CC3 x10 $7.50 x10 = $75

T Block + Stop Cap: T Block + Stop Fitting $3.95 + $3.25 = $7.20

GPU Water Block: Waiting for Nvidia to release Fermi then getting one of those + a full cover water block to go with it.


AUS $510.00 + shipping (without GPU blocks)

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post #2 of 51 (permalink) Old 01-13-2010, 09:39 PM
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Least I can add is going with a MCP655 with variable speed would be great idea. For the rad go for a big one at least 360 or larger. Since you want silence it will make up for lack of fan power. Getting a really efficient block would also benefit.
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post #3 of 51 (permalink) Old 01-13-2010, 09:42 PM
 
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Get a radiator with 8-10 Fins per Inch like XSPC RX series, Thermochill PA 120.3 or 120.4, or 140.3, or Swiftech MCR 320. All those only need low-medium speed fans.
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post #4 of 51 (permalink) Old 01-13-2010, 09:46 PM
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All good suggestions but you will still heat your room up, unless you put your rad. in a window exhausting to the outside.

You will see a big diff. in the noise level if you include your 260 in the cooling loop
I have the Evga water block on my 285 and it works great


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post #5 of 51 (permalink) Old 01-13-2010, 10:11 PM
 
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Mount the rad outside your window. Put a lil anti freeze in it and bingo...Silent. You will have to engineer running tubing to it. Crack the window and cut a sheet of plywood with holes for tubing. Put a little insulation to fill any air gaps. I use quick connectors on my tubing.
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post #6 of 51 (permalink) Old 01-13-2010, 10:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Suit Up View Post
The loop is to include the CPU + 1 GPU. I don't need a waterblock for the GTX 260 because I will be upgrading to a Fermi card whenever they are released and watercooling that instead. The loop should also be able to handle a 2nd graphics card if I ever go SLI.

The most important thing though is, I would like the cooling setup to be near silent. I imagine the loudest parts would be the pump and radiator fans. My budget is between $300-$500 but it can be increased if neccesery. My overclocks arn't huge so I dont need the very best, most uber parts, just good value for money and quiet parts.
Gotcha. Here's what I can suggest for those requirements;

Heatkiller 3.0 LT

XSPC RX360

3x Zalman ZM-F3s, using the included 7v wires

Any rebrand of the Jingway 600 (Danger Den CPX-1 and EK DCP 2.2 as examples), or even the Eheim 1046 (can be bought as the Aquastream XT if you want to control it with software); both of these are VERY quiet and will have enough power for a loop like you're after; however for the Eheim you do need a G1/4" adapter set, which Sidewinder carries

Masterkleer 7/16" ID / 5/8" OD clear tubing

Bitspower barbs/compression fittings (must match ID and OD for compression fittings)

For the video card blocks... well, I'll leave it to you if you want to try a full-coverage block like from EK or Watercool (all-in-one solution, but only works for a specific card or range of cards), or a universal like one from Swiftech (works with all GPUs but does not cover the MOSFETs or RAM chips).


Combined air and water cooling tips: Fan database | My San Ace 9G1212H1011 review | Don't mix metals or use premixes / dyes | Distilled vs. tap water | Good radiator brands | Water (almost) can't flow too fast | Which PT Nuke to use | Regarding thermal paste spreading
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post #7 of 51 (permalink) Old 01-14-2010, 02:05 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the replys. Heres what I've got:


CPU Water Block: EK-Supreme LT Acetal+Nickel

Radiator: EK-CoolStream RAD XT (360)

Pump: EK-DCP 2.2 (12V DC Pump)

Reservoir: EK-Reservoir Combo DCP 2.2

Fans: Zalman ZM-F3 120mm Silent LED Fan Red

Tubing: Swiftech Tubing 7/16" x 5/8" x 10ft

Coolant: Swiftech HydrX Coolant

Barbs/Fittings: ???


There was a cheaper Swiftech rad but I thought I may aswell go all EK

The thing that has me most confused at this point are fittings/barbs. Dont know how many or which types to get. Couldnt find any fittings with the same ID/OD as the tubing.

Also, Im not sure if the pump is enough for a loop with a CPU and 2 GPU blocks on it. Can anyone confirm its fine?

Im still very much open to more suggestions.

Thanks

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post #8 of 51 (permalink) Old 01-14-2010, 02:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Suit Up View Post
Use distilled water with a biocide (PT Nuke or a silver coil) instead. The coloring in fluid like that tends to separate and clog the parts over time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Suit Up View Post
Barbs/Fittings: ???
Just get whatever you like and get tubing that matches the dimensions of the barbs/fittings. Get 2 barbs/fittings for each part of the loop, and 2 extra for if you get another graphics card.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Suit Up View Post
There was a cheaper Swiftech rad but I thought I may aswell go all EK
They're nearly on par with each other, so that's always good.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Suit Up View Post
Also, Im not sure if the pump is enough for a loop with a CPU and 2 GPU blocks on it. Can anyone confirm its fine?
Yes, it's fine, and it'll be very quiet.


Combined air and water cooling tips: Fan database | My San Ace 9G1212H1011 review | Don't mix metals or use premixes / dyes | Distilled vs. tap water | Good radiator brands | Water (almost) can't flow too fast | Which PT Nuke to use | Regarding thermal paste spreading
Deep Blood
(15 items)
Soft Sentinel
(13 items)
CPU
Intel Core i7 920 D0 (Batch # 3901A240)
Motherboard
Foxconn X58 Blood Rage (non-GTI)
GPU
Sapphire Vega 64 8GB
RAM
6GB Corsair Dominator 1.6GHz TR3X6G1600C8D Rev 3.2
Hard Drive
Samsung SSD830 128GB / Seagate 640GB+2TB+2x4TB
Optical Drive
Samsung SH-S223Q 22X
Power Supply
Antec HCPP-850
Cooling
XTTH | OCZ Freeze | 9G1212H1011
Case
CaseLabs SM8
Operating System
Windows 7 Ultimate x64 SP1
Monitor
Dell U2410f (rev. A02)
Keyboard
Code 104 w/O-rings + Vortex PBT/POM doubleshot keycaps
Mouse
Roccat Kone EMP w/Dechanic Mini pad
Audio
Asus Xonar DX / Klipsch RM-14s + Dayton DTA-120 / MXL Tempo
Other
Microsoft Lifecam Cinema
CPU
Intel Core 2 Duo E6320
Motherboard
Intel DP35DP
GPU
XFX GeForce 7600GT
RAM
2GB Mushkin DDR2 800 5-5-5-12
Hard Drive
Seagate Barracuda 7200.10 320GB
Optical Drive
Asus 18x multi-burner
Power Supply
Enermax Liberty 400w modular
Case
Rosewill R5604-TBK
Operating System
Windows XP Pro SP3 32-bit
Monitor
Samsung LN-S2351W
Keyboard
Ideazon MERC
Mouse
Logitech MX-518 (rev.2; 1800 DPI [no Teflon feet])
Mouse
Xtrac Pads Ripper
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post #9 of 51 (permalink) Old 01-14-2010, 02:23 AM
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Get the high flow bitspowers.
You don't need to clamp it, since the fit will be tight.
You need 6(or 7) barbs: 2 for CPU block, 2 for res (or 3 if you plan to make a T-line/drain), 2 for rad. Pick up 2 more for each GPU block you plan to add.
The rad and I think res should come with barbs, but it's better to use the high flow barbs since it forms a tighter fit with the tubing.

I would opt for the Swiftech rad if it's cheaper, since performance is roughly the same. Plus as you mentioned you aren't going for heavy overclocks.

Again, like the above poster, use distilled water and a biocide instead of a mixture.

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post #10 of 51 (permalink) Old 01-14-2010, 02:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the help, +rep to you both.
Think I'll go with the cheaper Swiftech rad and save a few dollars.
Distilled water is easy enough to get but I dont know where to get PT Nuke or a KillCoil here in Aus. Are there any other biocides that you know of that i can search for or will something similar from a pool/pond shop do?

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