(Guide) H50 Replace Tubes and Res Mod. - Overclock.net - An Overclocking Community

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(Guide) H50 Replace Tubes and Res Mod.

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post #1 of 418 (permalink) Old 01-14-2010, 09:48 AM - Thread Starter
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H50 Res and tubing guide Modding guide. The first ever!

Lets start off by saying that doing any of the folowing WILL void your warrenty, completely.
You will also not have a sealed loop anymore meaning that the chance of leaking before was alot
less than a normal un sealed water cooling system. The chances of leaking are now on par with
a normal water cooling system, but still very low, if done correctly.


Before doing this mod, you should have a good idea of installing and building a normal water cooling system.
I reccommend that you watch some video's on youtube and look at some guides if you havent done so before.
Also i would read all the way though this guide a few times to get a good idea of what to do.

Tools needed:
Various Philips and flat head Screwdrivers.
Sharp knife
funnel
Spanners or mole grips



useful tools to have:
Torch
spare PSU



Parts needed:
Cable ties
tubing (6mm ID - 8mm OD, although im using 8mm ID - 10mm OD)
A res (im using a Swiftech MCRes Micro V2)

Useful parts
Smart coils (realy helps to prevent kinks)
compression fittings (for res)


Lets start the mod..


So you have your stock H50 out of your case and disconnected from everywhere.

The first thing you need to do is too remove these two screws:



After undoing them you will find that the cover will be able to be removed from the H50 pump unit.

Right at the end of the tubing (on the pump end) you will find a screw with a large washer on it.

Remove the screw and put the washer and screw in a safe place.

You want to hold the pump unit and pipes over a large container to catch the luiqid.

With a gentle pull you will be able to pull the pipes out of the H50 pump unit and
let the luiqid drain out of the H50, radiator and pipes until empty.

To remove the pipes from the barbs you need to cut the pipes off.

The barbs are made of metal on the radiator but the removable barbs from the pump side are made of plastic.

You want to cut all the way though the tubing where the red line is on all four barbs.



Once you have the main part of the tubing off you need to slowly cut down the side of the barb to remove
the left over tubing on barb (blue in the photo).

Sorry i dont have photo's of this, i cant remove the piping off the removable barbs because i have run out off cable ties.

Once you have the four barb without tubing covering them, you need to start fitting the new tubing.

Slide the tubing over the barbs most of the way.

On the pump end its quite a tight fit so you will need to have the end bit of the cable ties sticking out like this.



You now want to find the washer and screw that was holding the pipes into the H50 unit then insert the two removable barbs with tubing attached by getting them abit damp and sliding them back into the pump unit.

Once both are in, you want to slide the washer into place then screw the screw the screw in.







Test that the pipes are tight into the H50 unit and wont come out.

You can now replace the cover on to the pump unit and screw the two screws holding the cover on back in.

The best way for performance is to lay the loop out like this:



So warm water flows from the H50 Unit then to the res then to the rad then from the rad back to the H50 Unit.

I chose to use Compression fittings on the Res because they seemed like to most secure way of attaching the tubes.

They hold the pipes in VERY firmly, I personaly can not pull the tubing thru them, the tubing would probabley snap before they let go.

Although barbs will do a fine job.

The swiftech Res im using comes with barbs that can be used for 8mm ID and 10 OD tubing.

When it comes to fitting the fitting to the res, huge force is not needed, i believe the rule of thumb is as tight as you can get it
using your fingers the a quater to a half turn more.

Remember to use O rings!

You then want to fit the tubing on to the Rad, basically do the same as you did the pump unit.

Like this:



Once you have all conections made, double check them.

Undo the Lid or uscrew the top cap on the res and fill the res, filling it almost full.



You want to lift the res up so its higher then the pump and rad making the liuqid flow down the tubes.

If the res gets empty, refill untill you can get any more ait out of the system without turning the pump on.

You then want to connect the H50's pump to a spare power supply.

To allow the PSU to start you want to short the green cable on the 24 pin mobo lead with any black cable like this:



You can now turn the PSU on and off by just using the swich on the back of the psu unit.

The Pump will spit out loads of tiny bubbles when its turned on, just make sure the pump has water going to it.

The res will look like this:



After awhile of getting all of the air out of the Rad and pump, you are sorted.

To get the air bubbles that seem to stick to the side of the res and tubes out you want to tap the tubes and res with the handle of
a screw driver.

I would leave the system running for a around 6 hours to ensure there are no leaks.

Mount.

Finished photo's:






High res versions of all photo's are availible

Edit: Added more photo's!!


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post #2 of 418 (permalink) Old 01-14-2010, 09:53 AM
 
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Does it improve temps in any way or is it just for teh looks?
Guide looks good and nice work.
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post #3 of 418 (permalink) Old 01-14-2010, 09:54 AM
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Very nice guide Will, and a very high quality end product

+rep for the step-by-step walk through

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post #4 of 418 (permalink) Old 01-14-2010, 09:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyberbot View Post
Does it improve temps in any way or is it just for teh looks?
Guide looks good and nice work.
Temps are down by quite alot.

Stock H50 with push pull

Load = 55'c

Modded H50 Push pull

Load = 36'c

Thats with all mods the mods i've done.

Thanks btw.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Killhouse View Post
Very nice guide Will, and a very high quality end product

+rep for the step-by-step walk through
Thanks, i hope this helps.


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post #5 of 418 (permalink) Old 01-14-2010, 09:56 AM
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I LOVE that green color!!!! the flow doesn't look that impressive though, there isnt really any turbulence in that res, good tutorial anyways!


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post #6 of 418 (permalink) Old 01-14-2010, 09:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tha d0ctor View Post
I LOVE that green color!!!! the flow doesn't look that impressive though, there isnt really any turbulence in that res, good tutorial anyways!
The Microres has little to no turbulence even with the Swiftech MCP-655 pump, only circular reservoirs tend to show the flow, or when a loop is not put together well. Either way, this is a nice mod! Good going.

Originally Posted by VCheeZ
That mix of Zotac cooler and blue pcb is the ugliest thing I have ever witnessed that was not made by Gigabyte.


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post #7 of 418 (permalink) Old 01-14-2010, 09:59 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tha d0ctor View Post
I LOVE that green color!!!! the flow doesn't look that impressive though, there isnt really any turbulence in that res, good tutorial anyways!
Yeah, the H50's pump isnt built for performance, its built more for silence.


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post #8 of 418 (permalink) Old 01-14-2010, 10:02 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inuyasha1771 View Post
The Microres has little to no turbulence even with the Swiftech MCP-655 pump, only circular reservoirs tend to show the flow, or when a loop is not put together well. Either way, this is a nice mod! Good going.
Thanks, the res does the job well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Willhemmens View Post
Yeah, the H50's pump isnt built for performance, its built more for silence.
Here's a video of the pump moving the green UV dye around the sytem:


You can see it entering at filling the first tube quite fast.


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post #9 of 418 (permalink) Old 01-14-2010, 10:06 AM
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Wow +Rep. Very very nice guide. I will possibly be trying this.

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post #10 of 418 (permalink) Old 01-14-2010, 10:07 AM
 
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Thnx alot for the guide mate!

Great guide

Appreciated

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