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Water cooling guide for noobs (Always updated)

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post #701 of 754 (permalink) Old 08-21-2015, 10:27 AM
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I'll take a look at some of this stuff later, because again you've written a very detailed and good response. So about 1.5GPM should be good, and none of the blocks will explode (I don't need a lake in my computer) How much pressure can the blocks take before well... blowing up?

Also Will an Acetal + Nickel full Motherboard waterblock work with the rest of my copper waterblocks or will the nickel + acetal be a problem?

I think that the distance between all of this stuff will be less than 20ft. I hear what your saying about a pump per computer, so just move the pump to the actual pc line from the manifold? If that's correct then it would also allow me to add more pc's in the future? and also would that cause there to be too much pressure at the second manifold where the water goes back to the radiator/reservoir, or am I just kind of freaking out a bit?
yeah I had planned on gravity feeding the rad and have some fans going on it, figured that would save me electricity and be just as effective as a pump for it.
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post #702 of 754 (permalink) Old 08-22-2015, 12:18 PM
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PSI :
most watercooling radiators can take 2 bar (almost 30 PSI) .. i'm not sure about automotive, but since car radiators are designed to work under pressure (because of liquids in excess of 100°C, hence the expansion vat they have) I guess that you would not have to worry about that all smile.gif

Not ALL watercooling rads can take 2 bar and most blocks & fitting wouldn't like that very much either.

But unless you are planning to use a couple of Iwaki RD30 in series, you'ld be hard pressed (see what I did there?) to get anything above 5 PSI, not with a normal D5. You're well within specs here.

Of course if you plan to introduce some crappy glued PVC joints that fall apart when you look at it, well yeah, THEN you should worry smile.gif

mixed materials:
Acetal is not an issue.. copper + nickel + alu.. better make sure to add about 30% automotive to the distilled water smile.gif
Choose an automotive additive with lotsa anti-corrosion properties, not just any "antifreeze". You don't have to worry about freezing here.

build:
just visualise as each PC has its own standalone internal loop. The only difference, the hose which goes from your "last" block back to the pump inlet actually has a QDC sitting in the middle. When connected to itself, you can move the PC freely around, or even "plug-in" a normal 240/360 rad using the QDCs.
When connected to the BIG loop, that hose gets "split" and the QDCs connected to their counterparts which are attached which a (short) length of hose to the manifolds.

manifolds
Either build something yourself , like naja did in his car rad build OR use some "professional Central/Floor heating ones smile.gif



build redux:
A mere suggestion or two: rolleyes.gif

Most automotive rads come with several & different fittings/holes. At least two of them will be rather large, in most configurations the is one "big" one at the top and one "big" one at the bottom. Probably something like 1 or 1.2 or maybe even 2 inch dia. Use these smile.gif
Get some (white) PVC (drainpipe) in the same diameter, it allows you to easy couple this pipe to the radiator using a few short ends of (rubber) automotive radiator hose coupling tying them in place with wormdrives.. just like you see it done under the hood of a car/truck smile.gif



Mount the bottom of the automotive rad about 3 feet off the floor - depending if the bottom outlet is vertical or horizontal. In most cases its horizontal.

run the PVC pipe horizontal (and preferably level or with a slight 2° downward angle) through the wall to where it needs to go.. add the double, triple, quadruple manifold (if gluing, preferably 24 hrs in advance) This is now your feeder pipe FROM the rad.

Mount the second PVC pipe & manifolds about one foot higher as the top of the radiator - horizontally (and preferably level or with a slight 2° downward angle towards the RAD) This is now your return pipe TO the rad.

Before connecting up with the top of the rad (you might need an S bend for that); add in a PVC "T" pointing upwards and have one foot of the same pipe pointing upwards. This will become you fill & balancing pipe & reservoir.

You rad is now ready for gravity feed operation. smile.gif

Start filling up the radiator slowly as you would any. At some point most of the air will be out of the system and you might even start seeing some ware coming in through the return pipe. Time to put the radiator cap on and continue filling slowly through the vertical balancing pipe.

Continue till it (almost) overflows then its time to start the pumps (not the PCs, only the pumps, use a separate PSU to temporarily plug in the pump if needed or if more convenient)

Since there is more as enough air stil trapped in nooks & crannies, you'll get some spluttering till most of that air is replaced by water.

You may need to top up during this process.

Now let run for 24 hrs, sporadically checking for leaks or if the system needs to be topped up.

The vertical pipe now acts as a reservoir/ air trap. The liquid in this vertical pipe should NOT be overflowing, it should be no more as a few inched above the horizontal pipe. Maybe halfway up.

Now its time to convert this pipe to a balancer : just slide a rubber balloon (or even a condom) over the pipe. This is mainly to prevent dust or nasties from choosing to start a new life in the pipe. At the same time... if the liquid level rises because of thermal expansion.. there is enough room for it. And should the pressure rise a lot (which it wont, but IF), then this is where it goes without being lost (iow it keeps your loop pressurised). And when the level drops because PCs being idle on a cold night (thermal shrinking) there is enough reserve in the balancer to avoid air getting sucked into the loop.


Of course, this is only one possible setup, there ARE other ways of doing it, but this is frankly one of the easiest ways of doing.

PS: yes, Linus did it wrong smile.gif


NOTE: For those that are going to argue that the D5 pump does have "no suction" and thus it wont work.. it doesn't matter.. we have + 1 gallon of liquid "pushing" at 1 G at the "suction" end. And since the D5 has ~10 feet "head", unless the car rad is 9 feet tall, there should be no issue on that "lifting" front either smile.gif

Extra note: Need to do some calculations: because of the "gravity feed" nature of this setup, there might be a limit on the number of ports (PCs) on the manifold... but need more exact numbers for that ... ie total volume of water held in the Rad , but from the top of my head, the "weight" of one gallon of water above the bottom manifold should be enough for at least a 5 port manifold....
Especially when using "big-bore" pipe smile.gif Where is Archimedes when you need him? smile.gif

Reality is futile, you will be assimilated by (your) perception.

Golden Rule(s) for Fans: CHEAP + SILENT = NO PERFORMANCE ▼ CHEAP + PERFORMANCE = NOT SILENT ▼ SILENT + PERFORMANCE = NOT CHEAP
+Most SILENT Case Fans are not well suited for CPU-HS-Towers or Radiators
+Most SILENT Case Fans are not well suited for cases, especially if they have filters. (added by doyll on 23/04/2014)
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post #703 of 754 (permalink) Old 08-22-2015, 03:34 PM
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My biocide is taking a while to get here. How long could I safely operate without it? Is using a Chlorine based one from an aquarium shop, safe for my blocks? Opposed to the normal Copper Sulfate (CuSO4) based ones?


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post #704 of 754 (permalink) Old 08-22-2015, 03:44 PM
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Im cheap I just got a pond pump from harbor freight. Pretty cheap but has some good pressure. Once I had an extra car fan it was 12v. I dont know if it would run on a computer psu though. Maybe if you had an old extra psu just for the fan. You could even get the rad and fan that goes with it.I dont know just brain storming. After seeing that extreem setup makes me want to try it. Anyways real neat idea, hope it all comes together for you.

Edit Chlorine is not good for any copper, if its dilluted fairly well shouldnt destroy the system right away. I have used small amounts in my other setups for about three weeks once and it didnt ruin it, but it did start corroding the clamps in the res. The biggest problem is if theirs micro channels it might clog them up.

cosmos s
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post #705 of 754 (permalink) Old 08-22-2015, 03:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimbags View Post

My biocide is taking a while to get here. How long could I safely operate without it? Is using a Chlorine based one from an aquarium shop, safe for my blocks? Opposed to the normal Copper Sulfate (CuSO4) based ones?

How long is a piece of string? It could be days/weeks/months before life develops.
Since you're Down Under where basically everything tries to kill you, it wouldn't surprise me if you had some strain of algea or bacteria that could WALK from Perth to Darwin while strangling roo's ... rolleyes.gif

I'm not to sure about Chlorine interaction with copper and/or nickel-plated copper.. somebody will chime in about that I guess... but I think its not a good idea

Back in the old days, a few drops IODINE (the non-alcohol based) were an acceptable option.

Of course, you can always keep the drops to a minimum and flush the system again once the biocide arrives.


Alternatively.. go to the local jewellers and talk them out of a chunk of the purest stirling silver they have and rop that somewhere in the loop/res.

Reality is futile, you will be assimilated by (your) perception.

Golden Rule(s) for Fans: CHEAP + SILENT = NO PERFORMANCE ▼ CHEAP + PERFORMANCE = NOT SILENT ▼ SILENT + PERFORMANCE = NOT CHEAP
+Most SILENT Case Fans are not well suited for CPU-HS-Towers or Radiators
+Most SILENT Case Fans are not well suited for cases, especially if they have filters. (added by doyll on 23/04/2014)
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post #706 of 754 (permalink) Old 08-22-2015, 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by RnRollie View Post

How long is a piece of string? It could be days/weeks/months before life develops.
Since you're Down Under where basically everything tries to kill you, it wouldn't surprise me if you had some strain of algea or bacteria that could WALK from Perth to Darwin while strangling roo's ... rolleyes.gif

I'm not to sure about Chlorine interaction with copper and/or nickel-plated copper.. somebody will chime in about that I guess... but I think its not a good idea

Back in the old days, a few drops IODINE (the non-alcohol based) were an acceptable option.

Of course, you can always keep the drops to a minimum and flush the system again once the biocide arrives.


Alternatively.. go to the local jewellers and talk them out of a chunk of the purest stirling silver they have and rop that somewhere in the loop/res.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 0493mike View Post

Im cheap I just got a pond pump from harbor freight. Pretty cheap but has some good pressure. Once I had an extra car fan it was 12v. I dont know if it would run on a computer psu though. Maybe if you had an old extra psu just for the fan. You could even get the rad and fan that goes with it.I dont know just brain storming. After seeing that extreem setup makes me want to try it. Anyways real neat idea, hope it all comes together for you.

Edit Chlorine is not good for any copper, if its dilluted fairly well shouldnt destroy the system right away. I have used small amounts in my other setups for about three weeks once and it didnt ruin it, but it did start corroding the clamps in the res. The biggest problem is if theirs micro channels it might clog them up.
Thanks guys. +REP! Going to avoid chlorine as im sure it will do damage. Might get some liquid iodine from local chemist. Im pretty isolated here so hard to get a hold of things like Copper Sulfate etc


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post #707 of 754 (permalink) Old 08-23-2015, 05:34 PM
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l built my first custom liquid cooling rig 7 years ago with the i7 920. At the time I used distilled water and also placed a pure silver shaving into my loop. I have never had any discoloration or algae grow inside the loop. I used clear tubing and its still clear. I only cleaned the loop once and replaced water 3 times. The point is that if you can get your hands on silver then you never have to worry about anything in your loop.

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post #708 of 754 (permalink) Old 08-24-2015, 03:22 AM
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Copper & Silver sources near you smile.gif


Reality is futile, you will be assimilated by (your) perception.

Golden Rule(s) for Fans: CHEAP + SILENT = NO PERFORMANCE ▼ CHEAP + PERFORMANCE = NOT SILENT ▼ SILENT + PERFORMANCE = NOT CHEAP
+Most SILENT Case Fans are not well suited for CPU-HS-Towers or Radiators
+Most SILENT Case Fans are not well suited for cases, especially if they have filters. (added by doyll on 23/04/2014)
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post #709 of 754 (permalink) Old 08-24-2015, 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by RnRollie View Post

Copper & Silver sources near you smile.gif

HAHA I cant just go out and mine it myself, I really wish I could but Government says no :-/


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post #710 of 754 (permalink) Old 08-25-2015, 03:17 PM
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Sorry for the long response time.
So it seems like you recommend about 5 PSI? Would you also be willing to please link me a link to a good D5 pump that you would recommend? preferably something that doesn't cost a bazillion dollars?

So with 30% automotive fluid, I can basically not worry about any corrosion? Could you please be willing to link me to a good thing of antifreeze? Also with antifreeze how often will I have to change the fluid in order to prevent corrosion?

Can I just connect the manifold into the reservoir directly/get a reservoir with prebuilt manifold Or should I get one that connects to the reservoir and branches off from there?

Is doing a gravity feed not the best way to set up the rad/is there a different and better way to do it? I like the idea of having a D5 pump per machine line off of the manifold, but should I also have a pump either between the rad and the reservoir or before the rad?

Also will insulated PVC pipe be the best option long term? I don't want to get into this a few years and find it leaking in places.
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