Triple TECs - Double chiller + Direct Die Cascade? Sure, why not!? - Overclock.net - An Overclocking Community

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Triple TECs - Double chiller + Direct Die Cascade? Sure, why not!?

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post #1 of 61 (permalink) Old 03-10-2014, 10:13 PM - Thread Starter
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So I was tossing up the idea of building a small TEC chiller to run in front of my SDD Arqtik block for a while, but it was just an idea I was tossing around on my backburner.

Fast forward to today, and I was looking through the classified's here for an AIO cooler for a rig I am building for a friend. Low and behold, I stumbled on someone selling not one, but two of the Mindchill Arqtik chillers and the dual controller. I only really needed one, but they are hard to find and the price was decent so I jumped on it...they should be shipped out tomorrow smile.gif. Just the 2 chillers kept a 3770k at 5ghz in check, so adding them before my single TEC block should be interesting. Current plan is to set chillers to keep coolant temp at dew point (~10c), then run the SDD block at full tilt. Should be interesting what the block will do with now with ~30c cooler water on the hot side. I would love to see low 40s load @ 4.8ghz like that smile.gif.

New cooling setup will be:
Cold side: MCP655, 2x Arqtik chillers in series on dedicated bit-chill controller, Insulated homemade PVC res, Arqtik Single Direct Die on a second controller, homemade bay bus to override controller dew point protection and monitor cold/cold side temps, all 1/2" barbs, pump and all 3 TECs at 14v.
Hot side: MCP655, Three Black Ice GTX 480 Quad radiators in series, Dangerden dual bay res, a million 80CFM 120mm server fans
GPUs: MCP655 modded for G1/4" barbs, modded CPU coolers on both GPUs, Aquacomputer AMS 280mm Rad, modded stock VRM plates w/ fans, Phobya tube res


...everything will be internal - 3 seperate loops, 3 pumps, two chillers, one TEC block, both controllers, three 480mm rads, one 280mm rad, three reservoirs, approximately 30 120mm fans...WHEW.


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post #2 of 61 (permalink) Old 03-11-2014, 12:59 AM
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I like your style biggrin.gif Can't wait to see it in action!

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post #3 of 61 (permalink) Old 03-11-2014, 01:09 AM
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this is going to be god if it works


As others have stated, the topic has been beaten to death. The horse is not just dead, it's rotted away, its flesh gone, and the bones turned to dust. We're not just beating the dead horse, we're beating the ground hard enough and for long enough to create a crater rivaling those from the Moon.
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post #4 of 61 (permalink) Old 03-11-2014, 12:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Ordered my third 655 today. I used to have 3, but one of them finally died a few months back so I am down to 2 (one on GPU loop, one on CPU). They last forever and are my pump of choice - the one that died recently I bought used from a forum with a 2006 build date LOL. I ran it 24/7 for a year before it started grinding, and who knows how the previous owner treated it. I think it was ran dry since when I took it apart the only thing wrong was the ceramic bearing was unevenly warn out and causing it to wobble and hit the casing.

Still looking for a third Quad radiator, preferably a matching Black Ice GTX GenII. Let me know if anyone has any leads on one...dont want a thin one like Swiftech though.

Also decided to insulate the cold side tubing and let them do work - not going to dew point limit the chillers to ~10c. I plan on mixing antifreeze in the cold side and running both chillers at 0c then the block at full tilt - should be good for almost 500watts of total cooling all for my 3770k biggrin.gif.


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post #5 of 61 (permalink) Old 03-11-2014, 02:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Started a quick switch panel to override the dew point monitoring of the Arqtik controllers. Basically just wire in a switch on one leg of the ambient temp sensor, so when you toggle it the temp sensor goes open short, which is registered as a "0" by the Arqtik controllers firmware. That will let you override the dew point protection and target 0c regardless of ambient and humidity, without having to take it apart and run the TEC directly from the PSU. Flip the switch back, and the ambient is detected properly again, giving you full control down to 1* above current dew point to save power or prevent condensation if its not insulated.

Used a covered toggle switch to prevent it from accidentally being turned on and eating tons of power. Putting a second one right next to it, then installing two LCD temp readouts next to them to show coolant temp of the Hot and Cold sides.




I'll finish it when the second LCD temp display comes in.

(The temp display you see there is not what I am using, I was just testing it with that. It is an ANCIENT display from an old Thermaltake Hardcano bay bus/fan controller. The mess of wires are from a 5v adapter that I spliced a molex on for testing stuff like that...I also have an old external CDROM 12v PSU that I did the same thing for testing 12v molex devices and bleeding watercooling loops smile.gif. )


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post #6 of 61 (permalink) Old 03-11-2014, 07:15 PM
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i acme so close to buying those chillers.. gl
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post #7 of 61 (permalink) Old 03-11-2014, 07:55 PM
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This is going to be good biggrin.gif

I thought Dew Point Control could be disabled in software on those controllers? Or was that a firmware flash rather than a software control option which just gave you TT control? Or do you just remove the humidity sensor? I like your idea as it gives you the ability to switch quickly for ease of use and go for efficiency or with the flip of a switch go all out powaaa biggrin.gif

Good work, can't wait. Madly planning my own insane chiller set up in the hope that one day I'll have the money to build it ;-) 8 x 150.5w thermonamic peltiers at 9v is my new favourite TEC chiller set up, just going by the numbers the thermonamic peltiers are far more efficient than the Custom Thermo Electric ones, hoping foxrena can test the ones he bought to verify that 74*c dT at 0w load and the efficiency they claim. At 40*dt the thermonamic 150.5w Tec at 9v is almost twice as efficient compared to the 127.7w CTE Tec at 26.4v both with 300Qc(W) @ 40*dT when you use 8 of them in a chiller. The thermonamic tec even brings 50*dt into the realm of possibility although at ~1000w power consumption thumb.gif all just theory but it sounds good on paper!

http://www.thermonamic.com/TEHC1-12714S-74-English.pdf
http://www.customthermoelectric.com/tecs/pdf/28711-5L31-06CY_spec_sht.pdf

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post #8 of 61 (permalink) Old 03-12-2014, 04:56 AM
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Just sayin but i'd be leary of too good to be true claims from Chinese TEC manufacturers. I remember back in the day when Ultra had to bin trays of them because they didn't perform the way they were specced.

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post #9 of 61 (permalink) Old 03-12-2014, 05:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elloquin View Post

Just sayin but i'd be leary of too good to be true claims from Chinese TEC manufacturers. I remember back in the day when Ultra had to bin trays of them because they didn't perform the way they were specced.

Oh I'm definitely wary, hence waiting for foxrena to test the pair he bought. But the spec sheets are pretty extensive and the efficiency curves they have developed have to come from some kind of data. But yes, I do want to see if they come close to performing at spec before I trust them over Custom Thermo's offerings. Anyone know if fox has plans to test his 669.4w tecs yet?

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post #10 of 61 (permalink) Old 03-12-2014, 09:30 AM - Thread Starter
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Going to make a PVC res for the cold side of my chillers, and insulate it to store cold while the PC is idle/low draw. PVC is more resistant to cold then a plexi or acrylic res would be, and is a pretty good thermal insulator so with some neoprene wrap it should be fine. This should accomplish 2 things - use less power from the chillers to maintain set temperature once it gets the loop temp down, and give a buffer to hold the low temps for longer while benching or gaming at high settings. Will be adding propylene glycol to prevent the loop from slushing/freezing at 0c, since it will properly lower freezing temp while not reacting with the Delrin and PVC in my loop like other additives. No acrylic or plexy parts in the cold side, they get brittle and may crack at the joints.


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