this is completely covered in two types of clay
this is about a 1/8 inch thick around the entire cold side blocks, and fittings, and this kind of clay is covering that
this stuff is about 2" thick around the entire cold side assembly, yea its ugly, but functional, the cold side blocks and piping does not end up as a block of ice this way.
to insolate the reservoir, I will be covering it in foam insolation to start, and maybe some clay on top of that if it starts to freeze up around it.
they make real nice fittings today for making the conversion from G1/4 to soft copper tubing. the copper tubing will also be covered in clay.
the chest(vacuum chamber) and pump.
had to throw the inwin case away, made too many changes to it, and the case became weak, I have another case, its a HP case, and it fits in the chest, so this time I will be a little more careful about how many modifications I make to the case. :lol: I will try anyway.
these are two of them
in the test loop I used this one so one of the TEC will be a 430W
I also have 4 X 100W and 2 X 250W TEC's that I used for testing.
this is basically what the test loop looked like.
ok so what is happening here?
I am cutting 3" off the length of the PC case all the way around then I will reattach the front of the case 3" closer to the video card.
this will give me the room I need to have all of the wires from the I/O panel, video cards, motherboard, and the tubing, all going through only one hole in the chest.
it will be to tight on the I/O panel wires and the video card connectors if I do not shorten the case.
there is no PS going in the PC case so all of the wires and tubing will be going out of the case where the PS should be.
on a side note this is how I messed up the last case, so I will be more careful this time
ok so the new case dimensions after the modifications are 14 3/8" high X 11 5/8" wide X 6 1/2" thick(deep)
it is just a little larger than the motherboard a DX79SR and a little thicker than the video card a GTX580 with the water block.
how I messed up the first chest
this kind of build is definitely a custom build, and because of the nature of the build, it needs to be put together in a certain order.
when it comes to getting every thing in the chest and the chest resealed using only one hole, that to has to be done in a particular order.
first it is obvious that the amount of room in the chest is tight, in fact it is so tight that there is only enough room left in the chest after everything is in there, to finish making one connection. and that connection is on the top of the reservoirs, meaning that the water in line is the only line in the case that is not connected, when everything is placed in the chest.
so the water line from the bottom of the reservoirs to the lower video card has to be completely connected, and the water line out of the chest has to be connected to the bottom of the lower video card, this line has to be long enough to exit the chest, and be able to connect to the pump on the outside of the chest.
so the PC case and reservoirs need to made as a single unit outside of the chest, and placed inside chest as a singe unit, so I am building a support frame for the reservoirs, it is attached to the PC case. this is how I destroyed the last chest, I did not build frames to hold all of the hardware together, and as a result of that, and other issues, I had several holes in the first chest rather than only one.
the water line in has to be made but not connected, it can be sitting in the chest running through the hole in the chest for the water lines and wires.
all of the PC case wiring needs to have extensions for them, I am running all the wire extensions first through the one hole this time.
that is the power wire, reset wire, mobo power, cpu power, sata, FP audio, FP USB, 8-pin, 6-pin, USB, cat-6, audio, and the DVI-D.
it is a Chinese puzzle box, there really is only one way to put it all together.
the PC power supply, SSD/HDD, and DVD are outside of the chest.
wire extensions for this build.
one good thing about this build, is that the wire extensions used for going through the chest, are all the cheap style of wire.
the braided wire only serves to make it impossible to seal around it, so in the end I had to remove the braiding from the wire, to seal it on the test rig.
I got all the new wire extensions last night, and the total was only $65 for everything at newegg.
I was shocked, when I got my nice braded wire extensions for everything it was $250.
so live and learn. :lol:
ok so when I am ready to mount all of this I will have pics of my placement and maybe I could get some help then figuring out where the best place for all the components to go?
but for now here is a sketch to give a idea about all the different things, I will be trying to place.
the size of the reservoirs from top to bottom without fittings, I have two of them at 13" and one at 11" they are the 4" dia PVC.
the fittings for connecting them together are 3/8 copper compression fittings, 4 X T's and 2 X 90's with soft copper line running in between them.
on the top of the reservoirs I made a hole for a fill port, and taped it for a G1/4 cap. I cant see inside of the reservoirs, but a thin strip of plastic used like a dip stick, lets me know when I am close to the top of the inside of the reservoir with coolant.
the size of the TEC assembly, it is 15" tall, 5" wide, and 12" deep with all the fittings attached.
after the clay was added, I made it two inches thick all the way around the cold side, so the final size so far is 19" tall, 9" wide, and 14" deep, it is a massive square of clay on one half of the assembly the hot side has no clay on it at all, the clay stops at the TEC's.
sealing the hole I made in the side of chest after the computer is inside and the water loop has been primed with coolant and filled.
I will pack eraser putty into the 1" void of the chest and cover both the inside of the chest and the outside of the chest around the hole with flex seal.
I may need to seal the top of the chest where it opens, with some silicon for the chest to hold a vacuum.
the soft copper line coming into the chest for the vacuum pump, enters the chest through the drain plug for the chest, I will do the same thing there, I will pack the void around the copper tubing with eraser putty and cover both ends with flex seal.
well I think that covers the basic design, and how I will be assembling the system.
so this is how I decided to pipe the three reservoirs together, it is a three way parallel connection for the system, the total volume of liquid that they can hold together is about 5 liters, so I hope that will be enough to stabilize the system.
the center reservoir is a little shorter than the two outer reservoirs, because of the drain plug in the bottom of the chest.
ok, the removing of the lid on the CPU, I like the hair dryer and vice method for doing this, I will remove the lid, polish both sides of it, I will use liquid metal pro between the die and the lid, and I will paint LET on the base of the lid to reattach it.
I would like to stabilize my core temps, and this seems to be the way of doing that.
ok, so when I was placing the motherboard into the PC case for the vacuum chamber the motherboard extends down into the area that the power supply would be, well there are no standoffs for the motherboard in that area of the PC case, so I had to epoxy some standoffs to the PC case to support the motherboard down there, these standoffs are twice the height of standard standoffs. also I had to cut out two of the standoffs that where made as part of the PC case. a little work but its all worth it.
this little guy was my first test box for a vacuum chamber this box had two CPU blocks and a 100W TEC in it and I would vacuum it down to see how the environment would affect the TEC.
it changed nothing about how it functioned, but it was a good way for me to find out.
I did the same with a motherboard, I placed one in a larger chest then vacuumed it down, I released the vacuum, reinstalled the motherboard, and it worked fine, after that I was ready for my first live run, meaning I would try to power up a motherboard while under a vacuum. that test went fine as well I had no issues starting a mother board up while under a vacuum.
then I tried running cold coolant through the vacuum chamber to see if condensation would occur, that is how I figured out that I needed to preform a chamber dry, before I started any of my hardware at first I had ice forming on the lines and the blocks it took about 10 days before the chamber was dry enough that neither ice or water could form on the lines and blocks. once the chamber was dry, and I could run cold coolant through it all day without any condensation, or ice forming on the lines or blocks, at this point I was ready to start the system up for the first time. this too worked great, without too many issues, I did have to open the vacuum chamber up several times, to reset the BIOS before I found a stable clock for my CPU, than t had to re dry the chamber before I could start the system again. it was a pain, but I saved the profile in BIOS when I was done, so its all good.
things to remember
do not use petroleum grease, oil, or sealants inside the vacuum chamber, as a vacuum and petroleum do not get along, at all.
I state this because it has become a common practice to use grease to seal around the CPU and PCI-e sockets, in TEC builds.
the use of desi packs inside the vacuum chamber will cut the amount of time it takes to dry the vacuum chamber in half.
this is a high amp system, so I decided to cover every electrical connection in the system with a electrical box, to help prevent any kind of electrical accident.