that's the molding clay, I am covering the entire cold side in two layers of norprene 7/16" thick foam. than I will cover all of the foam in a 1/4" thick clay to seal the cold side off from the ambient air completely. this will absolutely prevent any condensation from forming. it also seems to improve the insulation of the cold side a little, but the main reason for the clay, is to prevent ambient air from being able to affect the cold side water loop. in total their will be about 50LBS of clay on this build. the normal price for molding clay is $3 a pound. I got it all on sell for $1.73 a pound, so I have about $85 in clay total. the foam I have was gotten the same way, the normal price for this foam is $3 a foot. I got it for $1.30 a foot and I have 240 feet, or about $300 total for just the foam being used on this build.
I started with just clay, and that did not work. so I tried clay, foam, clay, and that did not work. than I tried foam, clay, and that almost worked. so finally I tried foam, foam, clay, and that worked really well.
as far as actual building needed for this build, I had to build all the frames to mount all of the hardware to the table top. every thing on this build is mounted, so that it will not move, or be knocked over. so for just the aluminum and plastic angle, I have spent about $200. for all the nuts, bolts, and washers, used for the frames. so that I could mount the hardware to the frames, than also mounting the frames to the table top, I have spent about $300 total just for those. so nothing has been super cheap to do with this build. the high cost is on me, because I wanted to have Allen head bolts instead of Philips head bolts. the reason for the upgrade was that I had a lot of the Philips head bolts strip out on me, on the Philips head itself. the Allen head bolts do not strip out on me.
ok, so it's wired, now I just wait until next month to get a couple of fittings, so I can finish the piping on the other hot side water loop. the first hot water loop is filled and working fine. the next will be the cold water loop. I let you know how that goes.
so this is what the new display looks like. the 9420RPM reading is the flow rate on that water loop or 9.420LPM would be the converted flow rate. if I did this right, I should have 9 plus LPM on all three of the water loops.
ok that makes two water loops the cold side water loop works and runs at 9.6LPM at 12 volts to the pumps I will increase to 24volts on the D5 strong pump when I start making the water get cold.
at this point I think you can tell just how big this cooling system is. ok, so I have tested all the fans on the second water loop, and so far all 44 fans will go active. the last test will be to see all the 7 of the pumps running with the 44 fans. right now I only have 5 pumps running with 44 fans. that's a lot of fans.
ok so, I am a little over half way done with covering the cold side with two layers of foam. than I will cover all that foam in about 1/4" of clay.
not to bad tomorrow I will start to clay the entire cold side water loop motors, and all. this process is not as easy as it seems, because I have to start at the water blocks, and work my way out from their, covering the build in clay, as I go. not much space to work in, so I have to make the most out of what I have.
ok so I have tested the 331watt TEC's with a full load on them or 600watts or heat load to that side. with the TEC's running at 13.4volts, or 135watts each, to the cold side of the TEC, puts the hot side water loop at a 12C delta T from ambient. that is as high as I can go with the TEC's on that side.
with the other side the 224watt TEC's I will have them running at 19volts this should put that water loop at a 12C delta T to ambient as well. the plus is that that side will be running at 165watts to the cold side of each TEC, except for one that will be running at 135watts. for a total of 1770watts to the cold side, for this build, hopefully soon we will get to see how well that can cool a entire PC build, of about 590watts total.