Let's find ASETEK pump&block fittings! - Overclock.net - An Overclocking Community

Forum Jump: 

Let's find ASETEK pump&block fittings!

 
Thread Tools
post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-22-2017, 02:16 PM - Thread Starter
New to Overclock.net
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Tampere
Posts: 23
Rep: 0
Hello,

I am sure many of you have used Asetek pump & block AIO coolers under various brands (Corsair, NZXT, Antec to name a few). But the real question when you finally after many years decide to mod them and want to find alternative source for fittings for accidents, where do you find one? Asetek doesn't sell spare fittings so where do you get new ones? This thread is all about finding that answer.

Facts: Pump quick fitting OD is: 9.7mm (~3/8"), double O-rings make it water tight and there are various methods these quick fittings are held in place (metal washer of plastic chock). Their usual end outlet type is 6mm (1/4") barb straight, angled 90 degrees or 135 degrees.

Similar fittings are manufactured and used by Flojet but their quick fitting diameter is 3/4" (19mm) or 1/2" (13mm) thus they cannot be used.

Flojet 3/4" Quick disconnect 3/4" barb fitting


Metal Flojet 1/2" Quick disconnect 3/8" barb fitting


Antec 620 AIO pump made by Asetek, 90 degree angled fittings held in by metal washer


Arctic Cooling Hybrid pump & block made by Asetek, straight fittings held in by plastic chock between fittings



Fitting that might work?
Flojet co2/air fitting plastic or metal, 1/4" barb (6mm) and judging from the picture actual quick connect end seems to be 3/8" (10mm).


Note: Metal one has shut-off valve?

I would like to order one but things are only sold in USA and shipping fee to good old Europe is whopping $15.

Anyone up to the task to buy one and measure it for us? (I will sponsor buying one if it comes to that).

sl06bhytmar is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-23-2017, 04:59 PM - Thread Starter
New to Overclock.net
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Tampere
Posts: 23
Rep: 0
Alright I am almost 100% sure these fittings are manufactured by Flojet. I am sure they are those 1/4" plastic barbs without shut-off valve but heck you cannot find anyone selling those.

sl06bhytmar is offline  
post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-06-2017, 08:26 PM
New to Overclock.net
 
RGBninjaDiffuse's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Toronto, North york
Posts: 1
Rep: 0
Heres a broken h80i i had. i measured diameter, its 13/32 or about 3/8. H80i also has a shoulder for a retaining pin.

In the end i think it really does not matter as long as you know the diameter and you know how to connect your tubing. If the fitting is destroyed, i would consider you europeans very lucky! You can thread a BSPP 3/8 adapter into the hole and attach it to a barb or compression fitting that has g1/4 threads (north american NPT is not compatible with g1/4). For replacing the tube you can simply cut it off with the fitting attached to the pump.



The radiator side is a different story. I think its welded on. Not so bad either way, its stronger than the surrounding material and if you wanted to replace the fitting, just chop it off and thread it.
RGBninjaDiffuse is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-13-2017, 04:28 PM - Thread Starter
New to Overclock.net
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Tampere
Posts: 23
Rep: 0
In the end I wasn't able to source replacement so had to fix broken one with superglue and epoxy glue.

Good luck to anyone else with same problem.

sl06bhytmar is offline  
post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-24-2019, 04:40 AM
New to Overclock.net
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Posts: 2
Rep: 0
Quote: Originally Posted by RGBninjaDiffuse View Post
Heres a broken h80i i had. i measured diameter, its 13/32 or about 3/8. H80i also has a shoulder for a retaining pin.<br><br>
In the end i think it really does not matter as long as you know the diameter and you know how to connect your tubing. If the fitting is destroyed, i would consider you europeans very lucky! You can thread a BSPP 3/8 adapter into the hole and attach it to a barb or compression fitting that has g1/4 threads (north american NPT is not compatible with g1/4). For replacing the tube you can simply cut it off with the fitting attached to the pump.<br><a class="H-lightbox-open" href="https://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/3053736/"><img alt="" class="lightbox-enabled" data-id="3053736" data-type="61" src="https://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/3053736/width/200/height/400/flags/LL" style="; width: 200px; height: 113px"></a><br><br><br>
The radiator side is a different story. I think its welded on. Not so bad either way, its stronger than the surrounding material and if you wanted to replace the fitting, just chop it off and thread it.
Hi, hopefully you can help me... I have an H80i that I bought off ebay with the intention of using the barbs with another cooler (the barbs broke and I can't find replacements anywhere, and both Corsair and Asetek didn't get back to me) but I can't figure out how the hell to remove the pins holding them in place. I saw that you'd successfully removed yours... How did you manage to get yours off, if you can remember?

Cheers
superron is offline  
post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-24-2019, 09:09 AM
⤷ αC
 
AlphaC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 10,668
Rep: 871 (Unique: 575)
If it's a first gen H80i with the barbs on the side or even the newer version with the tubes coming out of the top you likely need to remove the plastic piece that goes over the PCB. Have a look at https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-w...r-mod-2-a.html

Quote:
At this point I first removed the tubes from the Radiator and emptied the Glycol coolant into my container (glass cup). A little out of order but it will all make sense, I promise.

The thick plastic looking band around the tube end first needs to be loosened. To do this take your lighter and lightly wave the flame around the rubber. Do Not leave the flame on the rubber, you only want to warm it up a little. I waved the flame back and forth a few times, it doesn't need much heat at all.
^ probably using a heat gun is a better idea

Unless you don't value your CPU I wouldn't bother and just get a proper copper-based kit such as the Swiftech Drive x3 or the cheaper Alphacool Eisbaer series if you're really on a budget.

Swiftech Drive X3 kit is as low as $130ish http://www.swiftech.com/drive-x3-aio.aspx

The Alphacool Eisbaer is using a DC-LT which is similar to the Asetek pump , it's even sold separately for ~$30. The pump isn't great , but it's better than going to extreme lengths to make something from Asetek work properly.

LT: https://www.alphacool.com/shop/cpu-k...-lt-solo-black , https://modmymods.com/alphacool-eisb...ack-12886.html

Non-LT: https://modmymods.com/alphacool-eisb...ack-12511.html , https://www.aquatuning.us/water-cool...-2600rpm-black , https://www.amazon.com/Alphacool-Eis.../dp/B01HQ8K1IY


DC-LT pump itself without CPU block http://www.performance-pcs.com/alpha...ic-12v-dc.html , https://www.amazon.com/Alphacool-DC-.../dp/B01H0KV6GO

Dc-LT with reservoir http://www.performance-pcs.com/alpha...ltra-pump.html

► Recommended GPU Projects: [email protected] , [email protected] (FP64) (AMD moreso) ► Other notable GPU projects: [email protected] (Nvidia), GPUGrid (Nvidia) ► Project list



Last edited by AlphaC; 06-24-2019 at 09:13 AM.
AlphaC is offline  
post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-30-2019, 04:23 AM
New to Overclock.net
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Posts: 2
Rep: 0
Managed to figure the damn thing out... I was able to push them out with a (very) small screw driver
superron is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Overclock.net - An Overclocking Community forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off