Want to delidd my 3770k - Overclock.net - An Overclocking Community

Forum Jump: 

Want to delidd my 3770k

Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-19-2019, 01:29 AM - Thread Starter
New to Overclock.net
 
b0uncyfr0's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Sydney
Posts: 248
Rep: 2 (Unique: 2)
Want to delidd my 3770k

I've got a pretty good 3770k. Its currently running at 4.6Ghz around 1.23v. With my D14 - it doesn't really go past 63 in gaming but stress testing is another thing. Ive noticed going to 4.7Ghz will requires alot more voltage as around 1.3v it still isnt stable. Around this voltage - it can hit the high 80's when stressing.

Frankly, I just wanna push the sucker as close to 5 Ghz as possible to remove those pesky low frames with my 1070. Im not gonna sell the rig so i might as well squeeze everything i can from it. Questions:

- Liquid metal or NT-H1...Which liquid should I get?
- How can i seal it back up? Since the D14 is sitting on top - is it really necessary?
- Is it worth it?

Cheers
b0uncyfr0 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-19-2019, 02:06 AM
New to Overclock.net
 
Shawnb99's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Crackatoea
Posts: 876
Rep: 24 (Unique: 16)
Quote: Originally Posted by b0uncyfr0 View Post
I've got a pretty good 3770k. Its currently running at 4.6Ghz around 1.23v. With my D14 - it doesn't really go past 63 in gaming but stress testing is another thing. Ive noticed going to 4.7Ghz will requires alot more voltage as around 1.3v it still isnt stable. Around this voltage - it can hit the high 80's when stressing.



Frankly, I just wanna push the sucker as close to 5 Ghz as possible to remove those pesky low frames with my 1070. Im not gonna sell the rig so i might as well squeeze everything i can from it. Questions:



- Liquid metal or NT-H1...Which liquid should I get?

- How can i seal it back up? Since the D14 is sitting on top - is it really necessary?

- Is it worth it?



Cheers


Liquid metal, use Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut
You can use Superglue to seal it back up, or you can get a direct die kit.
Yes it’s worth it.
Check out Rockit cool for their kits and what’s involved

My Baby
(24 items)
CPU
Delidded Direct Die I9 9900K
Motherboard
ASUS Maximus XI Apex
GPU
EVGA FTW3 Hydro Copper GeForce RTX 2080 Ti
RAM
G.SKILL TridentZ Series 16GB DDR4 3600 F4-3600C15D-16GTZ
Hard Drive
2x Samsung 970 EVO Plus 1TB
Hard Drive
Asus Hyper M.2 card
Hard Drive
2 x Intel 660P 2TB
Power Supply
Seasonic PRIME Ultra 1000 Titanium
Cooling
Watercool HEATKILLER IV PRO
Cooling
2x Swiftech MCP35X2 with MCP35X2 Heat Sink
Cooling
2x Hardware Labs Black Ice Nemesis 360GTR
Cooling
2x Hardware Labs Black Ice Nemesis 360GTS
Cooling
Aquacomputer aqualis XT 450 ml with nano coating
Cooling
9x Noctua NF-S12A PWM
Cooling
2x Noctua NA-A15 PWM
Cooling
24x EK Vadar F4120ER
Case
Case Labs Magnum M8 with Pedestal
Monitor
Asus PG28Q
Keyboard
Das Keyboard 5Q
Mouse
Swiftpoint Z
Audio
Mr. Speakers Aeon Closed
Audio
Geek Pulse Inifnity DAC/AMP
Audio
Cavalii Audio Liquid Carbon HPA
Other
Aquacomputer Aquaero XT
▲ hide details ▲
Shawnb99 is online now  
post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-19-2019, 05:48 AM - Thread Starter
New to Overclock.net
 
b0uncyfr0's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Sydney
Posts: 248
Rep: 2 (Unique: 2)
Quote: Originally Posted by Shawnb99 View Post
Liquid metal, use Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut
You can use Superglue to seal it back up, or you can get a direct die kit.
Yes it’s worth it.
Check out Rockit cool for their kits and what’s involved
Nice, thanks. Is it generally a good idea to use LM on the D14 or just stick to NT-H1?

Last edited by b0uncyfr0; 07-19-2019 at 06:06 AM.
b0uncyfr0 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-19-2019, 06:33 AM
New to Overclock.net
 
deepor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 4,736
Rep: 474 (Unique: 320)
Quote: Originally Posted by b0uncyfr0 View Post
Nice, thanks. Is it generally a good idea to use LM on the D14 of just stick to NT-H1?

I was unhappy with using liquid metal between my i5-3570k CPU and my NH-D14. The liquid metal will turn hard over time, and then you will not be able to fully remove it anymore. There will be small clumps of dark material fused to the base of the cooler. You will have to use sandpaper to get the base of the cooler smooth again.

The liquid metal hardens over time because certain components of it start moving into the copper of the NH-D14. I guess it's the "gallium" metal part of the liquid metal. When you then polish the base of the cooler with sandpaper, you will remove the nickel plating from the base and will see the red color from the copper that's underneath the nickel plating. In the middle of the cooler's base, the copper will have a silver instead of a red color. That's because in that area it will be a sort of alloy of copper and gallium.

A very annoying thing that happened here for me was, because the liquid metal had turned hard, there were flakes of metal flying around the motherboard after I removed the NH-D14. One of those flakes managed to get into the CPU socket. I noticed this because one memory channel stopped working after I had reassembled the PC. I had to try to fish out that metal flake from between the socket pins without destroying the pins. That was pretty annoying.

Another thing I noticed, the liquid metal between CPU and cooler did not age better than thermal paste. After several years, when the liquid metal was fully hardened, the temperatures were noticeably worse than in the beginning.

This whole experience was a bit sad and I would recommend against using liquid metal between CPU and cooler.
deepor is offline  
post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-24-2019, 01:12 AM - Thread Starter
New to Overclock.net
 
b0uncyfr0's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Sydney
Posts: 248
Rep: 2 (Unique: 2)
Cheers @deepor - I will definitely use NT-H1 between the chip and D14. Everything has been ordered and shipped. I will post results after its complete

Last edited by b0uncyfr0; 07-25-2019 at 06:18 AM.
b0uncyfr0 is offline  
post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-24-2019, 12:18 PM
New to Overclock.net
 
jimmyhackers's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 186
Rep: 1 (Unique: 1)
i have a 3770k. after a delid and a liquid metal apply i got about 15-20 degrees C drop in tempretures...

i didnt bother reglueing the heat spreader back on...just let the socket on my z77 sabertooth mobo hold it there....

i am still using regular thermal paste between the cpu heatspreader and my cpu water block though....not sure how much more difference that would make.....



for note though.......i didnt really get the thing to overclock any higher afterwards it just ran cooler.....which is alway a bonus.
jimmyhackers is offline  
post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-24-2019, 12:21 PM
The last VRM burner
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Posts: 1,687
Rep: 28 (Unique: 15)
I'd use liquid metal between IHS and a cooler foot but I've got both of them lapped and sanding the blacked copper for selling purpose is a HUGE PITA... Already had to do it with 4690k.

PC for all
(20 items)
CPU
i7 5775c @4.2GHz/3.8GHz
Motherboard
Gigabyte Z97X Gaming 5
GPU
Soon to be 2070 Super FE
RAM
KHX24C11T3K2/16X 11-12-12-32-1T-250
Hard Drive
Corsair MP510
Hard Drive
Samsung Evo 860
Power Supply
SeaSonic Focus Plus 750W
Cooling
Raijintek Tisis lapped+ Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut
Cooling
Arctic P12 PWM x2
Cooling
Arctic P14 x4
Case
LianLi 330X
Operating System
Windows 10 64-bit Pro
Monitor
Benq GL2250 80Hz
Keyboard
Corsair Strafe Red Silent
Mouse
SteelSeries Rival 310
Mousepad
Artisan FX Raiden
Audio
Audio in Motion SC808 + MUSES8820 + 2x 2xLME49990
Audio
AKG M220
Other
NZXT Hue+
Other
Mayflash F300 Arcade Stick
▲ hide details ▲
BroadPwns is online now  
post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-25-2019, 06:19 AM - Thread Starter
New to Overclock.net
 
b0uncyfr0's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Sydney
Posts: 248
Rep: 2 (Unique: 2)
Quote: Originally Posted by jimmyhackers View Post

for note though.......i didnt really get the thing to overclock any higher afterwards it just ran cooler.....which is alway a bonus.
What was the highest you could do and at what voltage?
b0uncyfr0 is offline  
post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-25-2019, 06:56 AM
New to Overclock.net
 
Imprezzion's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Gorredijk, Holland
Posts: 2,322
Rep: 95 (Unique: 82)
I am a big fan of Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra as a LM TIM.
Not that Conductonaut is bad but I prefer CLU.

Delidding is simple as can be with 3xxx 4xxx, 6xxx and 7xxx CPU's. I never even bothered buying a delid tool and just used the vice method with a block of wood and a towel to catch the PCB. Worked just fine and never damaged any CPU so far.

I didn't glue my IHS's back on either. Socket retention bracket will hold it just fine. Just be careful when closing the retention mechanism that the IHS doesn't shift when closing it. Don't forget to fully remove the black sealant from both the IHS and the PCB with a bank card or something similar. A knife will work but be careful not to hit the PCB.

For reference sake: I ran a 3770K @ 4.95Ghz 1.448v under a H100i and it stress loaded around 75-80c and games 60-65c ran for years like that, CLU never deteriorated.

Cars:
-Crashed: (not my fault ) '94 Nissan 100NX GA16DE (a.k.a. NX1600). Renault Laguna Phase I facelift '99 1.6 K4M. (Broke a strut and smacked a tree).
-Sold: '00 Nissan Primera P11-144 QG18DE, '97 Honda Prelude F20A4.
-Current: '03 Suzuki Ignis Sport 1.5 M15A & '03 Peugeot 206CC 2.0 RFN fully riced.
Full-On Rainbowbarf
(15 items)
CPU
i9 9900K @ 5.025Ghz 1.248v
Motherboard
MSI MEG Z390 ACE
GPU
MSI RTX 2080 Gaming X Trio @ 2085 / 8200 @ 1093mv
RAM
Corsair Vengeance RGB B-Die @ 4220 17-17-17-34-280-2T 1.55v
Hard Drive
Samsung 850 EVO 500GB x2
Power Supply
Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 750W
Cooling
EK MLC-Phoenix 280 Kit
Case
Phanteks Enthoo Evolv X
Operating System
Windows 10 Pro X64
Monitor
Samsung S27B350H @ 1080p 75Hz OC
Monitor
Samsung S23B350H
Keyboard
Logitech G710+
Mouse
Trust GXT31
Mousepad
Corsair MM300 Large
Audio
Steelseries Siberia V2
▲ hide details ▲
Imprezzion is offline  
post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-16-2019, 11:45 AM - Thread Starter
New to Overclock.net
 
b0uncyfr0's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Sydney
Posts: 248
Rep: 2 (Unique: 2)
Results are in, I just run P95 for around an hour before and after:

Before delid:

1.32v at 4.7Ghz : 76-79 for Core 1 and 2. Core 3 and 4 are around 79-83.

After delid:

1.32v at 4.7Ghz - 62-66 for Core 1 and Core 2. Core 3 and 4 are around 67-71. Last I remember, this unevenness is quite normal for 3770k's?

Its looking pretty good and i have to admit I'm impressed. I should done this wayy sooner. I think I have some headroom for possibly 4.9Ghz!

I am still worried about the voltage - what should be my cut off point at this rate? 1.35v seems pretty safe but would approaching 1.4v under 90 degree's be alright?
b0uncyfr0 is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Overclock.net - An Overclocking Community forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off