I tried to take some pictures of the back of the pcb but can't get a good viewing angle.
The card is in a pretty cramped HTPC case with watercooling tubing running to/from gpu,cpu,vrm and chipset on mobo, with the most tubing clutter right at the back of the gpu pcb.
And I don't much feel like breaking the loop just to get some pictures...
If the whole setup sounds odd its probably cause it is
The rig started out as a HTPC for the livingroom/home theatre, and gradually turned into a gaming rig with the help of more powerful components, watercooling and an external rad.
Powerdraw isn't really an issue or priority when I got a projector and more than a few amplifiers drawing power/spewing heat.
An extra kW here or there won't make much difference except just more heat in the livingroom, which depending on the seasonal climate might or might not be a problem...
But really, the soldered resistors looks just about the same as it does in buildzoids video, except my soldering work looks messier and has multiple resistors soldered in parallell across the legs of the first resistor I soldered.
A cleaner job would be to solder just one resistor of appropriate value, but with my poor soldering skills I think I'll probably screw something up if I de-solder the first ones and solder back another one, easier to just pile on resistors in parallell soldered to the legs of the first resistors.
...And I have a big fat variable resistor on the back of the PCB as well that works as voltmod for the HBM.
...And a pile of extra caps soldered to the HBM VRM, which probably didn't help anything, but again, probably screw something up if I try to de-solder it.
...And a lot of hot glue fixating/supporting/covering various solder joints and the VR for the HBM volt mod.
Looks pretty ugly but I really could not care less since I can't see the card in the case...
So, yeah, I would much rather just refer to buildzoids video and carefully examine it, use that as a guide for the soldering as I did.
However, perhaps I have found a way to solve the negative clock scaling with increased voltage with powerplay modification.
I poked around some more with the softpowerplay editor and found that the field "usAVFSOffset" located in "Gfx Clock 7" or the Pstate 7 clock section perhaps can help, atleast it changed clocks during load slightly.
"usAVFSOffset" has default value 0
I tried various values ranging from 1 to 99 and got progressively higher maintained core clock during load/benches.
clocks didnt scale 1-1 for me but I think I got some 15-20MHz higher clocks when set to 99, with lower values giving lower increase of maintained load core clock.
Since I already had maxed stable clocks for the core voltage I supplied these clocks were not stable and eventually crashed...
Now, since my card already has hardmod for power and now "reads" just ~1/5 of its real current draw I have no use in manipulating with clock control as the card basically flatlines the clocks on load, varying a few MHz up or down.
But perhaps the "usAVFSOffset" could work to counter the clock drops due to the boost algorithms power reading variable.
I can't test it on my card since it basically has no powerlimit or accurate power reading but had I not hardmodded the card I would have tried to just mod the softpowerplay table with increased power and current limits to hopefully avoid powerbased throttling.
And then play around with values on P7 "usAVFSOffset" varying from 0 to 99 and see if the negative clock scaling (with increased Vcore) decreases, perhaps an appropriate value here could get the card to remain close to set P7 clocks during load?
Worth a try i think...
I tried to set values above 99 as well but that resulted for me in crashes when the driver loaded during startup, so i guess values above 99 is a no go.