SMD Capacitor Ripped off due to plier slip. Insight, help, very much appreciated. - Page 2 - Overclock.net - An Overclocking Community

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SMD Capacitor Ripped off due to plier slip. Insight, help, very much appreciated.

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post #11 of 43 (permalink) Old 12-21-2017, 02:37 PM - Thread Starter
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I have a multimeter measuring F at a good range for the job.. I’ll order the fiberglass pencil for sure and a nice cheap digital microscope. I have a Weller solder station with temp display but I need to order a finer tip that hopefully isn’t already busted at the top.

Oh and unfortunately, Nvidia would not spill the beans on the capacitor’s exact job or if how important/ redundant it is.

Thanks again for the help and links, really appreciate getting into the details here and some good technical know-how being posted.
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post #12 of 43 (permalink) Old 12-21-2017, 03:26 PM
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most welcome, shared knowledge & open source imho is the best way for all to learn :) we were once noobs and still are in some areas lol

 

If you have a soldering tip thats seen better days, THIS stuff helps ALOT, amazingly tips come out like new, have a wire-tip cleaner to use with this too and tips mostly do come out looking like new :)


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post #13 of 43 (permalink) Old 12-21-2017, 03:50 PM
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oh sorry forgot to mention, be careful if buying a USB Microscope, the resolution is terrible on the low end ones, you can make it workable with manual hand tuning and extra softened lighting, but if dead-set on getting one, grab one with a stand.

 

here's a photo of some SMD Components under my x40 hand held mini-glass magnifier, not a USB microscope at all;

 

 

 

from left to right, two 1206 sized SMD Resistors (in green back colour)

, one 0603 sized resistor (223, 22K value) and one 0603 capacitor, 0.1nF

 

granted, i need to hold the magnifier over the iphone camera i use, but with a bit of practise, its not too bad, there are 'phone clip on' magnifiers too that have LED's in them also and are fairly inexpensive, have a search for those before you think of grabbing a USB Microscope, although ive not looked at their specs lately, im talking about almost a decade lol so they must be better than the shoddy 480x640 resolution of my one lol or there abouts lol


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post #14 of 43 (permalink) Old 12-21-2017, 04:37 PM
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Okay just had a short browse lol

 

USB Microscopes are upto 2 MP (Mega-pixel) stage these days, in the same awful enclosure ive got lol

 

this one though, and MANY OTHERS are being marketed as 5 MP - Megapixels but this is incorrect, it clearly shows in the specs that its default resolution is the shoddy 640x480 which is 0.3MP !!! but it CAN go upto 1600x1200 (which is 2MP !!)

 

Resolution Chart

 

YET its being branded as 5MP - be careful, but you do get what you pay for with these cheap ones and they ARE much better resolution that the one i got a decade ago, so i guess theyd be pretty good for photo's only as their video defaults back to the 0.3MP shoddy video resolution lol

 

There are cheaper ones that are brandished as 2MP in their title, dont search for a 5MP one and get duped


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post #15 of 43 (permalink) Old 12-21-2017, 06:29 PM - Thread Starter
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Much appreciated bobcat1969! I already ordered a mounted microscope to usb, that advertised 1000x strength because I’m rush-shipping it so I can get work done tomorrow. I’m crossing my fingers that’s true and that it outputs a workable image to a 1366x768 screen. Couldn’t get anything better at that price range and delivery date without breaking the bank but if anything I’ll have to play around with some of the extra magnifiers laying around to clarify. A magnifier mount for my phone would of been really nice for keeping things light, probably going to get one down the road, if not now in these coming days.

Also my Rs1007 DMM wasn’t giving me capacitance level anymore in my tests with various caps I find out, so I ordered a Fluke 117. So hopefully I only have to buy one and cry once with it for now haha. I just received a solder tip lotion just like the one you posted, my old tips were pretty oxidized.

I took a couple of picture before that had a bit more clarity into the connections and vias. The left side look like a simple fine solder job, no? On the right I can see a sliver of brown next to the via.
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post #16 of 43 (permalink) Old 12-21-2017, 07:25 PM
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You're most welcome, my pleasure :)

 

You could get away with using a regular soldering iron tip on this with the use of a magnifier, another very nice one is a x3 magnifier that i use to put over the workpiece, doesnt give alot of magnification but its enough to solder my absurdly small SMD Components, but i am used to it

 

this one helps a great deal though as i can solder under it without holding a magnifier or positioning any magnifier with stand

 

Also the letter/number designations above the capacitors, C70 & C71 are the numbered capacitors on the board, sadly not their values, over to the far left you can see 'C69' too, meaning theres upto 71 capacitors on the board and even more if you can see more higher than C71, some wont even be marked as having a number, big companies are notorious for keeping these things as secret as possible

 

sorry to hear about your DMM, looks like youre onto a winner with the Fluke haha, if only i could lol, that is gorgeous tech :thumb:

 

heres a good tip, if you can clean up your tip just good enough to tin it, you could try holding one side of that capacitor and tinning the side that has what appears to be, as others have said, a part of the solder-pad attached to it, you'd know for sure then if it comes off onto the tip with the solder

 

if you feel confident enough, you could try gently tinning the 2 pads it was lifted off of but be very careful not to heat it up too much, just a very quick tinning application, this would also show how much if any, of the solder pad is left on the PCB and also the other pad, which might be safe, the first photo you just posted is great can see very clearly but with the next two i cant really see the pads sadly :(

 

As Master Chicken noted, those Fiberglass pencils are great - they will gently sand off some of the solder-mask on that capacitors 2 connection points - only then will you have an indication of what copper you can then tin and solder that capacitor back on, unless you have to replace it due to damage, then you's need the DMM, well, either way, a DMM reading would be very welcomed

 

Also, has your DMM had a battery change recently ? sometimes they struggle with readings if battery is low :)


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post #17 of 43 (permalink) Old 12-21-2017, 07:32 PM
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oh also, dont use a solder sucker on this at all !!!

 

to remove solder, use the solder wick, or another good tip with SMD rework, dip the tip into flux tin, heat up a tiny pool of flux, then quickly dip half a q-tip's tip into it, makng sure not to cover maybe even a quarter of the tip, you only want it to soak the very tip..

 

Then heat up the pad thats full of solder, and following your soldering iron tip, gently rub the q-tip after the hot soldering iron and gently scrape off the solder from the pad moving in the direction to come off of the damaged part of the pad, not the other way as you might lift off more of the pad/trace

 

You will be left with a pristine looking solder pad and itll look like brand new, then you can solder to it again :)

 

give this some practice runs on something less important would be my top tip before trying these tricks on the GPU Card :)


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post #18 of 43 (permalink) Old 12-21-2017, 10:49 PM
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ugh Columbo Moment, lol

 

here's a quick video on SMD soldering, this dude is hilarious but his video's are super crisp and very clear

 

i cant seem to find where the heck i learnt that Q-Tip, tip, but the next time i fire up my iron, will try to take a good video of it, takes a bit of practice but you got mucho mucho shweet gear so i know youll get the hang of it real quick ! :thumb: 

 

EDIT:

Very Generally speaking, those capacitors are usually bypass/filter caps, but best to be safe than soffy with a DMM Test, but value of 0.1nF, 0805 sized SMD Capacitor would normally be the one, unlikely it'd be anything else, but do check your battery on your DMM too :)

 

1206 sized SMD parts, dead easy to solder, regular 1-2mm standard tip on iron, 0805 is next size down, again pretty easy to solder, their actually quite fat too


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post #19 of 43 (permalink) Old 12-21-2017, 11:20 PM
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Protip: When a standoff is stuck,leave it to last and unwind it completely off the block...then remove the screw....


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post #20 of 43 (permalink) Old 12-22-2017, 12:32 AM
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Have you even tested it? You might just be wasting your time trying to fix it. If it's just a bypass cap, you should be able to just leave it off. Based on the position, it looks related to the PCIe communication... lots of slack there compared to bypass caps for the GPU or Memory chips.

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